Suspension, Brakes, Tires & Wheels - Rear Suspension Issue

OK, got a big problem.

I was trying to replace my shocks, and I snapped the head off the bolt to the hub assembly. [:o] (see the 1st picture) I got a grinder and got the arm loose, however the remains of the bolt is now rusted in and wont budge, Ive tried lube/rust/solvent overnight, hammering, a steering wheel puller etc... nothing works. So if anyone has any ideas on how to get it out please help me!

Now if that can't work, I want to remove the whole arm and get it replaced, however, I fear that the bolt/bushing combo on the frame side are rusted solid as well. I have tried all of the above and a breaker bar and it wont budge but I haven't busted the bolt yet as you can see in the 2nd picture. My last resort is to grind off the bolt on both sides of this mount, however that is LAST RESORT... the last thing I want to do is damage the frame.

I want to fix this myself, but if I need to I will take it to a shop... if that is the case does anyone know a good shop in the Denver area?

I swear I'm about to :( I have to drive a ford till I fix this [:@]

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wow, what a wierd cooincidence... I just did the exact same thing, and was about to post about it.

EDIT: Check that, after looking at the pic a second time, I realized I actually snapped the other one, holding the shock to the LCA.

So, upon further research, it seems the general consensus is that you should just plan on replacing those bolts/nuts when installing your suspension. I've read a ton of threads from other forums saying the same thing, they're a pain in the ass, and they almost always break.

So, to the stealership I got tomorrow to pick up some new ones, and hopefully by Monday morning I'll be rolling on the new set-up....fingers crossed...

Thanks Forty04....

looks like I'll be going to the "stealership" as well. But my only redemption is if someone can tell me how to remove that stuck in bolt... cause I'm not sure that a 3" 10 strength bolt can be drilled out... so any other ideas? or anyone know where I can get my hands on a drill bit that would handle that? Otherwise... I got some more grinding to do[&o]

go to the hardwear store and check it out..they do sell bits that will drill through that

forty forty..im looking forward to seeing pics of your new set up!!!!:Dno more monster truck jokes

Yeah, when you break a bolt, drilling is almost always your first and best option, since replacing parts can get pricey. It takes a steady hand, but since that hole isn't threaded (I think...) you don't have to worry about tapping new threads afterward.

If you start drilling those out w/o a drill press plan on replacing things...I was driving with mismatched LCA's because I've had three of those bolts break...and to get them out I used a torch...

If you torch 'em, don't melt the bushings...

anyone tried an air hammer on them? seems like that might work.

I got mine out, but destroyed the bushings in the process. The ever growing shopping list continues......

update: We got the passenger side ones out and back in with no problems, that side is done.

As for the broken bolts you'll probably have to destroy the bushing. We basically just pulled while prying with a screw driver until it finally gave. Sucks not having access to the proper tools for a job. I've read a few recommendations for the "Easy-out," but I saw an equal amount of negative feedback on them.

I wish I had a little extra cash on my hands, so I could just buy new LCA's [:@]

what the hell do I need to use to get the new bushings into the LCAs???

A press man....a regular shop press

if you buy energy suspension polys you don't need a press to get them in, would could use a regualr bench vice if you have too. the bushings are cut in half and slide in from both sides and are not press fit. fror 150 dollars and all new bushings it is a steal. it took me 2 days to do my whole car working after school

Well, I'd love to get new energy poly's, but like I said, the other side went smooth and we got to use the OEM parts. So, I dont want polys on one side, and OEM on the other, see what I'm sayin? ...not to mention OEM replacements are only 13 bucks, haha. I'm hoping we can get that other bolt out without messing up the bushing, because at this poiint, I only need one new bushing. But the other has a broken bolt in it, so I'm not going to get too excited.

Just for the record...I did try an air hammer and it didn't work well...and I tried just about all penetrating lubricants available...the only thing that worked was the torch...and them reverse-cut bolt-outs (the kind you drill a hole for) just snaped...but those bolt-outs for the hears of the bolts are great

ORIGINAL: ef4life

if you buy energy suspension polys you don't need a press to get them in, would could use a regualr bench vice if you have too. the bushings are cut in half and slide in from both sides and are not press fit. fror 150 dollars and all new bushings it is a steal. it took me 2 days to do my whole car working after school

Is this the rear trailing arm bushing set, part no. 16.7106 or the rear lower bushing set, part no. 16.8103 or the rear control arm bushing set, 16.3104?

ATTN MEMBERS WITH BROKEN BOLTS

I have a box of similar ones, that are threaded the same, but are not the $15/piece Honda Stealership kind. PM if you need them. They're just taking up space, so you just pay shipping.

Well, I'd like to post a happily ever after story! :D I saw that people complain that no one ever does, so I though I would.

I drilled out the LCA and my new suspension on!

I want to thank all those that answered my post and helped me figure out how to do it. It turns out that all you need to do if the bolt is rusted in is get a 3/8 cobalt bit (dewalt was my choice) and then you drill. The secret I found to not ruin the 12$ bit was to drill a little, oil, drill, oil, etc. This takes some time, and I was sore for about 2 days after doing it. [&:] After you are done with that, get a 3/8 3in 10grade bolt and nut (I could only find them at fastener shops). Make sure you pick up a good lock washer as well!

Anyway, here is my pic of my now lowered and sweet cornering ride....:)



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so 3/8 is the size of the back bolt... didnt know that lol might come in handy when we do my cousins 97 coupe... prettty rusted down there lol, and fasterner stores, liek home depot and them? And anyone know how much they run for?

we had to drill out my rear control arm bolt when i did my suspension and it took us like 5 drill bits and about 5 hours with a compressed air gun....[:@]

yeah drilling sucks, bad lol but anyone knwo how much a the lower control arm cost these days? OEM one

Why would anyone want to use an oem arm? Last time I checked it was a three digit number starting with a 1 for ONE...and I got two aftermarket ones for less than that

ORIGINAL: Kolhoznik

Why would anyone want to use an oem arm? Last time I checked it was a three digit number starting with a 1 for ONE...and I got two aftermarket ones for less than that


OEM, at least for my 99 coupe, was 72 dollars. At cost price was 50, and that's what I ended up getting mine for...YES!


Just go with aftermarket ones. $100 Tops and you'll have a shiney new set, bushins and all.

I liekd the ones I got very much...they're made so that you can VERY EASILY replace bushings...