Nitrous, Super Chargers, & Turbos - Nitrous!

So i dont think i'm gonna be able to save up and boost my little y7 before it reaces 200K, and i dont think it'd be safe to boost after that, but i could save up for this in just a few months (specially with summer coming up), so im thiking about getting: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/IMPORT-NITROUS-OXIDE-WET-KIT-NEW-NX-NOS-CIVIC-CRX-BMW_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33740QQihZ019QQitem Z8028243111QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

What else am i gonna need? They've got a really high feedback score (99.8%), so it seems like it'd be a trustworthy kit. And also, what size shot (35, 50, 75, 90) would be safe to run with stock internals on my D16y7?

i would go with like a 50 shot to be safe. the motor im building orignaly lost compression from to much nitrious, i think he was running like a 75-100 shot

I'm doing the same as you flip exept I'm getting a ZEX wet kit, I would get a purge kit, gauges too. Bottle heater and auto opener if you have the extra cash.

by the time i get this i will have a pillar pod, one of the gauges will be an a/f gauge so i will take that one out and get a gauge for the nitrous.

I really like purge kits but i dont think they are necesarry so i will get the original kit and then once i save up again get the purge kit.

I understand the bottle heater (i think), but what does an auto opener do? Is it this thing?:

1 x wide open throttle switch (used to activate the system when at full acceleration)

an auto opener is so that you don't ahve to go to your trunk and open the bottle manually, ricer:-D

oooh alrightthanks Roto

and i was thinking maybe an AEM fuel rail, since they are nitrous compatible and im not sure if the OEM fuel rail is
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/AEM/Fuel-Rails/Fuel-System/Performance/performance-parts_c-94_b-1.htm?st=14&s_kwcid=aem%20fuel%20rail|427038011&gc lid=CMDi3oC15YoCFRlQgAodxAglyg

NNAAAAWWWWWZZZZZZZ!!!!

...will cost you more in the long run than boost ;)

he'll blow his engine up before the "long run" happens:)))

ORIGINAL: Roto

he'll blow his engine up before the "long run" happens:)))


are you talking about blowing it with boost or nitrous? And if youre talking about nitrous, are you recommending against it then?

Don't mind roto, he drives a Saab lol

1 x wide open throttle switch (used to activate the system when at full acceleration)
I'm not sure how that one works but its the switch that activates your nitrous, not a bottle opener. The switch that you quoted is like the button that you can put on your steering wheel and press it when you want to hit the nitrous or there are some nitrous kits that come with buttons that you put under your gas petal so when you are pushing the petal to the floor it also pushes the button. ZEX uses a nitrous control unit that has a wire running to your throttle wire (can't remember what its called) but once you are at full throttle the system recognizes it by how many volts are running through your throttle wire and then it activates the nitrous for you.

i want the buttom rather than that cuz i'm not gonna want to accidently hit it or somethin, idk, i'd just rather have the button.

I'm thiknig 50 shot should do me good. Any recommending for or against this?

Compression test and a leakdown test first.

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

i want the buttom rather than that cuz i'm not gonna want to accidentally hit it or somethin, idk, i'd just rather have the button.

I'm thiknig 50 shot should do me good. Any recommending for or against this?


Well it should also come with an arming switch too so that has to be flipped on before the button works. And you want a button so you don't accidentally hit it? I don't get it. I think ZEX is the way to go because of their NCU. You have to have the arming switch on and then you have to be at full throttle. Doesn't get much more fool proof than that. lol not to mention that you have to go into the trunk and open the bottle first, I really don't think you can do that on accident.[8D]

hahaha pansies![8D]purge kits and remote bottle openers are for lazy people :Dimo zex owns for such a small shot your thinking of running. not only does the activation make operation very simple but you dont have to worry so much about bottle pressure as the nmu will compensate and adjust fuel accordingly. its one of the few kits you can actually run a bottle practically dry with. as far as recomending a jetting selection i would start with the smallest selection first. once you can get a hang of what your plugs should look like after a nitrous run, then i recomend rejetting higher. ive personally ran anywhere from 75-125 jettings on my sohc's with stock internals for some time. its not the cheapest route in the long run but if you compare dyno sheets between nitrous,turbo,supercharged,n.a set ups youll notice how much nicer of a tq curve nitrous will give you. im a firm beleiver in the bottle.

lol I thought you would post here finalimpact I guess I can understand the bottle opener being lazy but what if you are just driving around and you wana run someone from a red light, are you gonna get out and open the bottle first? As for the purge kit, how is that lazy?

Flip I think nitrous is a very bad idea for you.

Why is that?

ORIGINAL: Mr Mobsta Man

lol I thought you would post here finalimpact I guess I can understand the bottle opener being lazy but what if you are just driving around and you wana run someone from a red light, are you gonna get out and open the bottle first? As for the purge kit, how is that lazy?


nitrous isnt street legal so your not supposed to have a full bottle hooked up to your feed line anyways[8D]plus most people use "on the bottle" pressure guages, your not going to make much use of nitrous if your pressure isnt up to par, you need to know the pressure at all times while using nitrous. but i feel you on the street race thing, i used to do it and always ran around with my bottle hooked up and open at all times until i got home. as far as the purge kit, i slways double check my lines and solenoids before each run. i just crack the nitrous feed line on the solenoid to bleed out air. think of it as a way to keep yourself just that much safer by having to crack the line open. in doing so you can do a quick overlook of the system to make sure everything is going to work right. you can also purge by using the nitrous solenoid. a quick blip of the throttle during a free rev while the system is on can clear your lines out. keep blipping till your car doesnt stutter. its all a personal preference though. i have a purge kit for intimidation uses.

I used to runNX wet 75 shot in my 01 civic ex (D17A2) Man those were some good times! Had a lot of fun and a lot of good kills with it. If you wanna spray nitrous in your motor, go for it. Dont let these people who never even tried it before, hate on you for it.

easy, final has been running it for over a year, maybe two. I'm not sure but he knows plenty enough that he doesn't need me to defend him. Besides I don't really think that a stock d17 could hold together with a 75shot for very long.

Remmy, you still didnt answer. Why is it a bad choice?

ORIGINAL: Mr Mobsta Man

easy, final has been running it for over a year, maybe two. I'm not sure but he knows plenty enough that he doesn't need me to defend him. Besides I don't really think that a stock d17 could hold together with a 75shot for very long.




I ranthe sprayover a year and a half myself andI had no problems other than a blown head gasketwhichI caused myself bysprayin withthe bottle pressure too high and that didnt happen until after a year of having it and even then the head gasket was only slightly blown.(meaning no coolant was getting into the oil) I had the head gasket replaced and arp head studs installed and never had a problem afetrwards. I've even sprayed that engine in 5th gear at over 100mph numerous times...so I guess the D17 does just fine with the spray! lol I dont know why you would think the D16 could handle it but the D17 cant when they're pretty much almost the same damn motor in regards to design.

interesting

ORIGINAL: easy101

ORIGINAL: Mr Mobsta Man

easy, final has been running it for over a year, maybe two. I'm not sure but he knows plenty enough that he doesn't need me to defend him. Besides I don't really think that a stock d17 could hold together with a 75shot for very long.




I ranthe sprayover a year and a half myself andI had no problems other than a blown head gasketwhichI caused myself bysprayin withthe bottle pressure too high and that didnt happen until after a year of having it and even then the head gasket was only slightly blown.(meaning no coolant was getting into the oil) I had the head gasket replaced and arp head studs installed and never had a problem afetrwards. I've even sprayed that engine in 5th gear at over 100mph numerous times...so I guess the D17 does just fine with the spray! lol I dont know why you would think the D16 could handle it but the D17 cant when they're pretty much almost the same damn motor in regards to design.

Honestly I can't sit here and tell you that you are wrong because I really don't know a whole lot about engines but the d17 has two major differences that I can think off of the top of my head. First it has a different ignition system, second it has that weird ass intake manifold. Both of those seem like they would effect how well the nitrous would work. I'm assuming that you adjusted your timing with the 75 shot also right?

no i never adjusted timing because the timing is controlled by the ecu on the gen and I didnt have a vafc orany kind offuel management which is why I bought the NW wet kit because it sprays the fuel in with the nitrous,but trust me, the sohc d series motors do just fine with the spray up to a 75 shot.I can vouch for the 75 shot but not a 100 shot.

edit: I know the idea of using nitrous without the ability to adjust timing sounds scary but I honestly never had any problems other what I previously stated and I was always checking plugs after every run and the plugs always looked good...maybe a little on the lean side but never anything to get paranoid about. I definitely NEVER ended up with any pinging sounds during use and I NEVER melted any plugs. The plastic intake manifold is nothing to be concerned about either unless you're dumb enough to cause yourself a nitrous backfire through the intake which would only happen if you sprayed while the engine is off which shouldnt happen anyway if you have wired properly or if you tried spraying in too high of a gear with too low of rpms.

What about your spark plugs, did you keep the stock gaps and heat range? I'm just curious because I'm not sure exactly what I need to do to prep for my 55 shot.

ooooh, thats a good question...its been almost 2 years since I had that car...I do remember I went with a smaller gap... I think the stock gap was .044 so I think I went with a smaller gap possibly .032?

edit: oh yeah, the heat range...I believe I was using NGK BK7RE's not sure what heat range those are because I cant remember... 5 or 6? I know those plugs are not copper although some nitrous users have gotten away just fine using coppers....those BK7RE's are the bomb though!