Audio/Visual & Electronics - Amplifier not turning on

I am trying to install an amplifier and two 10" subwoofers in my 2006 Civic EX Sedan. I have a kenwood 250W amp, and 2 Dual (as in the brand) 10" subwoofers, each in their own box. This weekend I started out by disconnecting the battery then taking apart my entire dashboard to get behind the head unit. I found a document online that specified the wiring colors for the stock head unit without navigation. Once I got the dashboard apart and the head unit off, that is where my problems started.

None of the colors on the wiring sheet, matched the colors of the wires in my head unit. Then I called Crutchfield, where I ordered the instructiions for taking apart the dash, and asked them for a wiring sheet. Their sheet was almost as useless, except it at least had pin numbers. So the colors did not match up, but I used the pin numbers to figure out which connections to make.

I connected my amplifier power to the battery with a fuse, ran it through the firewall (there was a well placed grommet in the center of the car that I took off) and attached it to the amp. I attached the ground wire to a bolt on the drivers seat. Then I attached the Power Control wire to the "+12V accessory" line going into my head unit, and connected the ground connection the ground wire to my head unit.

I attached a line out converter (LOC) to the left and right rear speaker wires, then I use RCA cable from the LOC to the amp audio input jacks. Then I connected 1 of the subs to the output connections. I turned it on and nothing happened. The sub did not work and the power light on the amp did not turn on.

I measured the voltage between the amplifier power supply and ground: it reads around +12.5V. I measured the voltage between the amplifier Power Control and ground and I measure about +7V. I disconnected all the other wires and measured again, and found the same results.

The amp is not new, I had it hooked up to the same 2 subwoofers in my 99 Mitsubishi Montero Sport and it worked great. I unsintalled it when I sold that car, and it has just been sitting around my room waiting for me to have the chance to install itin my Civic. I reconnected the head unit and the car battery and turned the car on, and the radio/cd player still work while the amp is connected but not turning on.

My questions are:
1) How much voltage should the power control pin be seeing? Is +7V right? Or should it be closer to +12V?
2) I should be connecting to the Accessory +12V right? Otherwise the amp will drain the battery if it is connected to the Constant +12V?
3) Is there any way I could have blown the amplifier by accident? Maybe if I connected the wrong wires for power control/audio input? The amp has a protection circuit though, but even with everything else disconnected it still won't turn on. Is there any way to find out if it is blown?

most amps like to see +12V for the power sense line i believe... i'd google you amp's owners/install manual to double check exactly how much voltage it actually requires, but I know my infinity likes to see +10 to +14V

I have the owner's manual for the amp and it doesn't specify a voltage. I might try calling the company tonight.

I also might try connecting the +12V from the battery to the power control pin, just to see if the amp turns on. Want to see if that is kosher first though and won't blow anything up.

Oh, I also checked the voltage from the "+12V accessory" wire without it connected to anything and it still read 7V. So the head unit must just use 7V.

A lot to read but 2 things.

1. Get a DMM and put it on the power and ground on the amp while wires connected, if you have 12v thats good.

2. Turn on your car and see if you have 12v at the remote, if not find a place for a remote if you don't use an aftermarket HU.

3. Your amp is ****ted.

your amp is ok, it's your acc. wire that you used thats not good, it should be 12V. Im not sure if in the 2006, the power outlet is only on when the car is on?, if so, you can tap it from that or you could go to the fuse panel, etc..... And yes you can try your amp by taking a piece of wire and connecting it from the amps + to the remote input to see if it powers on.

Figured out the problem.

Cruthfield gave me a guide that had colors and pin numbers for the wire harness. Since the colors did not match the pin numbers, I went by the pin numbers and figured they used any color they had at the factory when they built it. Turns out the pin numbers were almost all wrong, but the colors were right. Now everything is working great.

Cheers

yeah acc power wire on the back of the headunit should be red/yellow in 6th gens anyway

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ORIGINAL: windcalmer

You should have three power connections on your amp. One 12 volt + lead, one 12 volt -(or Ground), and the Remote turn on. Normally these are red, black and blue respectively. Now the 12V + should be run to the battery. The ground should be really short and run to the body of the car. The Remote turn on should be connected to the remote turn on lead coming out of your deck. Its really easy.


good explanation

well the way i always power my high/low converters when i had to use them was wire them from off the rear 6x9s.... wires are just hangen and no dash panel or other panels to rip out...