Mechanical Problems & Technical Chat - Civic giving me problems...Shuting OFF!!!

I own a 2000 Civic Si
Couple of months ago My Si was stalling on me when coming to a stop, red light or down shifting to 2nd gear when you were going to park and idle would go down and car will turn OFF. Sometimes I wouldn't even know when my car had turned OFF. Even if car is turned on to warm it up before driving it would also turned off. [:@]
***Dealer fix it and problem was igniter inside distributor was lose and Air throttle needed and adjustment***
6 months later is doing it again and back at the Honda dealer and can't find the problem this time because what they fixed last time everything it's the same way they left things.I didn't get charge but the dealer couldn't find what was wrong.
***Fuel pressure was fine, good coils and igniter.
***Installed new cap and rotor and fuel filter, Idle Air Control Valve and also the main relay.

I don't know what's wrong with it???? Any help :)

IAC valve and MAP sensor might be worth checking into. In this regard, has the CEL come on or can you retrieve any CEL codes?

Also, when the engine is warm and idling normally, is the idle speed proper (~700-800 RPM)?

ORIGINAL: RonJ

IAC valve and MAP sensor might be worth checking into. In this regard, has the CEL come on or can you retrieve any CEL codes?

Also, when the engine is warm and idling normally, is the idle speed proper (~700-800 RPM)?


No check engine light....*** where is the IAC valve and MAP sensor located on trottle mounted on top:(***
Idle is right on the money on my car...:)

Do you have the B16A2 engine? If so, the picture may help.

I have read on this forum that cleaning a dirty IAC valve with carburator cleaning fluid can fix it; however, I have not done this myself, so perhaps other members can give more details.

By the way, a dirty throttle body might also cause stalling like you describe. Also, does the CEL go on for a few seconds after turning the ignition switch to ON.

local://upfiles/25538/AF48687B90C74A049811288560A4F2A8.jpg

FYI: Pictures in this post and the next one link symptoms to probable causes when your CEL is not lit.

I hope this helps.

local://upfiles/25538/6D15FEDB63DB4824B2E67A14E1130567.jpg

Last picture...

local://upfiles/25538/4BB4911C47F24935A6C8573C16AF979B.jpg

ORIGINAL: RonJ

Do you have the B16A2 engine? If so, the picture may help.

I have read on this forum that cleaning a dirty IAC valve with carburator cleaning fluid can fix it; however, I have not done this myself, so perhaps other members can give more details.

By the way, a dirty throttle body might also cause stalling like you describe. Also, does the CEL go on for a few seconds after turning the ignition switch to ON.

local://upfiles/25538/AF48687B90C74A049811288560A4F2A8.jpg



My Idle Air Control Valve Is almost brand new I bought it like 4 months ago. Original from dealer ...Yes after turning the ignition switch to ON it will show for a couple of seconds ( check engine light) then turns off, but it has been doing this since the longest time. Yes it is a B16A2 ;).
***Since there is no check engine light ON will the OBDII scanner from auto-zone will it pick it up***

ORIGINAL: RonJ

Do you have the B16A2 engine? If so, the picture may help.

I have read on this forum that cleaning a dirty IAC valve with carburator cleaning fluid can fix it; however, I have not done this myself, so perhaps other members can give more details.

By the way, a dirty throttle body might also cause stalling like you describe. Also, does the CEL go on for a few seconds after turning the ignition switch to ON.

local://upfiles/25538/AF48687B90C74A049811288560A4F2A8.jpg


just a offside question
does the strut bar in a Si comes factory installed? Because that diagram has the picture of strut bar.

Yes it's factory installed and they come black...But i took mine out and got it powder coated blueand also my valve cover.
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g218/aztecboy2000/lakers030.jpg

Depending on the type of problem, a CEL code may be stored if the malfunction were temporary. Therefore, it wouldn't hurt to ask AutoZone to hook up a scan tool and see whether a code can be retrieved. You also might want to check whether the connector on the new IAC valve is loose and therefore not making a good electrical connection.

Finally, take a look at the two Tables on symptoms and causes of engine stalling and determine whether any of the possible causes are worth pursuing.

Yeah I will take it to Auto Zone today too see if I can get a code out. Do you know if there is a way to test the MAP sensor??????[&:]

The two pictures describe how to troubleshoot the MAP sensor when a car is throwing the respective CEL code. The tests require a scan tool. The tests are further complicated by the fact that your stalling problem is intermittent. You might only get useful information when the tests are done at the moment when the car is having the stall problem.

If a scan tool happens to be available to you, it also could be used to record ECU data when you are driving the car. Here you would run your car with a scan tool attached to record ECU data before and after a stall. The recorded data might help pinpoint your problem.

If you are lucky, Autozone will simplify this difficult problem for you by retrieving a CEL code.

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No code at all with the obdII scanner. they told me they don't think is the map sensor because no check engine light comes on...They told me it could be the TPS throttle position sensor.But I don't want to replace the whole throttle body. How can I remove the sensor because it don't have head on the screw and i know they sell after market TPS..What do you think :)

Based on information in the Civic service manual, the MAP sensor/circuit can be faulty without throwing a CEL code (see pictures in previous posts). The TPS sensor is not similarly mentioned as a candidate, although I guess anything is possible. My inclination would be first to rule out a MAP sensor/circuit problem. Just my opinion.

In your original post, I noticed that your stall problem may be linked to braking. If so, you should probably check your brake switch signal (picture below), which is the last potential cause for stalling (see picture in previous post).

local://upfiles/25538/1F1FB3A147734E108DDFD95F9E482457.jpg

where is the brake switch located buddy. I rally appreciate all your help :)

This picture should help.

local://upfiles/25538/5274639F04BE436BBD7103CE1FCA8286.jpg

You are Awesome for getting all this info....Guess what my friend works at a dismantling Honda yard. He snatched me a map sensor...I installed it but it did stalled on me again whileengine wasrunning I was outside looking at the engine[:@].
I did minor inspection and I found out there was a BOLT missing on my distributor the bottom one but the top ones where good. I found that bolt there stuckon the starter and that day I found it was having problems with my engine stalling already.

Maybe that bolt is the solution to my PROBLEM. I left real tight and left the car running for about 10 minutes and didn't die I hope this solve my Problem and Yeah I ended up with a FREE map sensor :D. I'll post later if this was the trouble.... THANKS RON J ;)

That's great news! I hope your problems are over. I guess the Honda dealer repair shop did some sloppy distributor work.

Tell me about it dumb jerks. But the good thing is that I came up with a free map sensor...lol.:D:D:D

I don't think the distributor came out of time because the 2 top bolts where really tight maybe the bottom was making my car to act up because there was no pressure there to seal it..:)

I'm going to drive it all day tomorrow and let it run also every now and then to see if it solved my problem...Thanks for all your help **Ron J**

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