WellFedHobo
08-10-2008, 09:20 AM
There are some instructions floating around the internet that tell you how to install genuine Honda fog lights. Those will tell you how to do most of the work for the OEM-style ones too. I recommend using them as far as you can. Their usefulness ends, however, when you get to the inside wiring harness. Ebay harnesses are different from OEM Honda ones. (With stock fogs, the system turns your fog lights off when your high beams are on. This is not so with Ebay fogs.)
Let's take a look at your harness. If you got the Ebay OEM-style ones, it will look identical or very similar to the picture in the attachment.
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=80&stc=1&d=1218383792
Everything is pretty standard here. There are only 4 connectors you really need to worry about. Take the ground, find a nearby bolt, and stick it under it. Simple as that, as long as the bolt is on METAL. The internet instructions then tell you to take the fog light connector from behind the fuse box and plug that into the harness. That'll be the blue wire. That is the exact point where the internet instructions will stop being useful. This is where I come in to save you with page 1534 of the Helms Service Manual (edited for this post).
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=79&stc=1&d=1218383792
As you can see, there are four power option slots that the remaining two brown connectors will fit into. On the previous picture, I marked them "Power 1" and "Power 2".
In general, "Power 1" will be the one on the harness with the inline fuse on it. It controls the main power for the lights. That one should go into the number 4 slot on your fuse box. Here is why: You only want your lights to be on when your key is in the ignition. In that slot, they will only come on when the key is in the ignition 2 (IG2) spot. Optionally, you can put it in slot 1 if you want to risk leaving the lights on accidentally. The tradeoff is that you can turn them on any time, key or no key, because slot 1 comes from the positive battery terminal and is a constant on power source. This is where you would usually tap power for an alarm system, which is why I suggest using 4 if you have an alarm or plan on getting one.
"Power 2" will be the only other connector. This one MUST go in slot 2. Slot 2 is for dash lights, meaning when you turn your lights on, the fog light emblem on your switch will also light up for that stock look. If you put it in slot 1 or 3, the light will be on constantly. This puts your switch at risk of melting because there are light bulbs inside instead of LEDs. (If you have the ability, I recommend upgrading the switch to LEDs because mine melted and stopped working due to heat from the bulbs.)
The rest should be self explanatory. The switch goes in an empty spot by your mirror/sunroof controls and all of the wires just get bundled and stashed under the dash somewhere. Congratulations! Your fog lights are wired correctly now.
Let's take a look at your harness. If you got the Ebay OEM-style ones, it will look identical or very similar to the picture in the attachment.
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=80&stc=1&d=1218383792
Everything is pretty standard here. There are only 4 connectors you really need to worry about. Take the ground, find a nearby bolt, and stick it under it. Simple as that, as long as the bolt is on METAL. The internet instructions then tell you to take the fog light connector from behind the fuse box and plug that into the harness. That'll be the blue wire. That is the exact point where the internet instructions will stop being useful. This is where I come in to save you with page 1534 of the Helms Service Manual (edited for this post).
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=79&stc=1&d=1218383792
As you can see, there are four power option slots that the remaining two brown connectors will fit into. On the previous picture, I marked them "Power 1" and "Power 2".
In general, "Power 1" will be the one on the harness with the inline fuse on it. It controls the main power for the lights. That one should go into the number 4 slot on your fuse box. Here is why: You only want your lights to be on when your key is in the ignition. In that slot, they will only come on when the key is in the ignition 2 (IG2) spot. Optionally, you can put it in slot 1 if you want to risk leaving the lights on accidentally. The tradeoff is that you can turn them on any time, key or no key, because slot 1 comes from the positive battery terminal and is a constant on power source. This is where you would usually tap power for an alarm system, which is why I suggest using 4 if you have an alarm or plan on getting one.
"Power 2" will be the only other connector. This one MUST go in slot 2. Slot 2 is for dash lights, meaning when you turn your lights on, the fog light emblem on your switch will also light up for that stock look. If you put it in slot 1 or 3, the light will be on constantly. This puts your switch at risk of melting because there are light bulbs inside instead of LEDs. (If you have the ability, I recommend upgrading the switch to LEDs because mine melted and stopped working due to heat from the bulbs.)
The rest should be self explanatory. The switch goes in an empty spot by your mirror/sunroof controls and all of the wires just get bundled and stashed under the dash somewhere. Congratulations! Your fog lights are wired correctly now.