Nitrous, Super Chargers, & Turbos - best grade oil for turbo b16

was just wondering what the best grade or grades of oil to run with turbo on a b16 built with pistons and rods 8 months ago?

have heard that 10w 60 is good but also have heard this is too thick and can only be used with a oil cooler?

wat about 0w-30? but seems quite thin to me! have read also that grades need to be changed to season..

im not likeing the oil that in there at the min and would like some ideas, brands aswell if you would!

thanks

10w30 AMSOIL has allways been a favorite of mine. I'm not a fan of Mobil1 like most simply because I have had a stock engine fail because it. AMSOIL has a flashpoint of 450 to 500 degrees vs most synthetics which have 440 degree flashpoints. Normal non synthetic oils on average have around a 350 degree flashpoint.

Also go with a synthetic what ever you do because petroleum oils(non synthetic) have a certain wax content in them. That is why they thicken up in the winter.

Marty, how did you have an engine fail cause of mobile1? I run Mobile1 10w3 advanced synthetic and so far not an oil related issue in 2 years...

Because the oil simply broke down, the cyl walls still had hash marks but the oil gummed up around the rod bolts enough to no let new fresh oil lubricate them the correct way. It was a low milage D series that had never had any mods and had never been run hard.

Marty-did you ever change your oil ? i almost 100% guarantee it was not Mobil 1's doing that caused your motor to fail.

if something is messed up with the oil filter would that cause damage to the engine?

Marty-did you ever change your oil ? i almost 100% guarantee it was not Mobil 1's doing that caused your motor to fail.

I change my oil every 2500 miles.

I use Mobile1 5w30, run the piss out of the motor daily, and I've put two and a half bottles of nitrous through it and I havn't had a problem with it yet.

I had problems with it. Not saying everyone will.

how old was the oil before you used it ? Oil does have a shelf life before the different parts seperate, if the oil was on the shelf or in a barn for a long time that could of compromised the oil. If fresh oil used you would should never have a problem.

Dude I buy my oil at a parts store(autozone/advanced) like everyone else. It's not like I go pick through some ****ty oil laying around in a barn. Stop trying to defend Mobil1 like you have stock in them. Ok you have not had any problems....thats cool. I'm not saying it's crappy, I'm saying I think amsoil is better.

10w30 AMSOIL has allways been a favorite of mine. I'm not a fan of Mobil1 like most simply because I have had a stock engine fail because it. AMSOIL has a flashpoint of 450 to 500 degrees vs most synthetics which have 440 degree flashpoints. Normal non synthetic oils on average have around a 350 degree flashpoint.

Also go with a synthetic what ever you do because petroleum oils(non synthetic) have a certain wax content in them. That is why they thicken up in the winter.

Well the b16 monster I had ran Mobil1 High Performance 10w 50 ( I think that was the grade) and it ran smoother. I was going to use royal purple but that chit got crazy expensive

I'm not saying it will screw up any engine and I am not saying not to get it. Just a educated opinion on my part.

It still doesnt change that fact you are ghey :D

so......

just dont use the greddy oil its shatty

I think Greddy went bankrupt...

i just use 10w 30 ruyal purple

ive used mobile 1 on my car when i had forced induction never had a problem but i guess it depends on your location and temp that can possibly cause this ive never heard of that brand name that you mention on your first post.But Mobile 1 fully synthentic is good, Royal purple is ok just pricey but ive heard it wears down your internals not sure if thats true, but i like lucas motor oil its good but again pricey. i am looking for some motul motor oil its expensive about 10.00/qt but its jdm so its got to be good for jdm motors...