General Civic Talk - Lighting Problem! Please help me out!

Hey guys,

I owed a 97 Civic for about 4 years now. The problem started a year ago when I used to have a stock headlights. The insulent running along the outer edge of my left headlight unit was wearing thin and water was leaking in.

My headlight and interior lights (dashborad lights) were turning off on me while driving so I had to flip the switch off and turn flip it on again and it would work. I didn't pay much attention to that till the problem becomes more consistent to the point that the lights (both exterior and interior) shut off permanently.

I bought a new headlight on eBay and replaced the old one. As suspected water was the cause of the problem as water short circuited when it comes in contact with the bulb housing unit.

My headlight work great for a few months until one day when I was driving and the lights (both exterior and interior) flickered, died, and never could turn them on again. As advised by the Autozone workers and several friends, I've checked the fuses over and over again and they are fine. Both inside and under the hood fuses.

I have no ideas what's going on and desperately need help as I am driving with no lights.

I was told that the relays in the light switch is the main caused. I was also told that this is a common problem with the civic as the light switch would short circuit and died along with the relays.

Is this true? I am looking into buying a new light switch but it costs $160.00. I don't want to spend that much money on a unit that I'm not sure is the problem or not.

Please advise!

I really don't know what the problem is and I am driving without lighting now

The combination light switch on the steering column is probably bad. Here's how to test it:

http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii320/RonJ_HCF/picture_1833.jpg

hey thanks ronj for the quick reply.

well i opened it up and inspected the switch here are a couple of pictures:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/vbnguyen316/DSC08213.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/vbnguyen316/DSC08217.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/vbnguyen316/DSC08214.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/vbnguyen316/DSC08215.jpg

All the wires look good but I haven't test the continuity like you suggested. To be honest I really don't know where to start but I will take the diagram you gave me and go ask around.

Any other suggestions?

You need to do the continuity tests for the 7P connector shown in the diagram. Buy or borrow a $15 digital multimeter, and use the Resistance (Ohm) setting to make the continuity measurements.

Does anyone know what this metal tab is for???

It wasn't connect to anything and the housing unit on the sterring column doesn't seem to has any connection for it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v237/vbnguyen316/whatsthis.jpg

I forgot to mention that the signal lights work so I would assume that there's power going into the light.

to clarify when i said the signal lights work I meant when i'm signaling i.e. pushing the light switch up or down the light works but other than that everything is dead when flipping the switch on.

My 7P connector doesn't has the B1 and B5 and my 4P connector doesn't has the A4...

Please take a look at the picture I posted...

Do your tests on the combination switch connector, which is black in your picture. The white 7P connector (mirror image of black connector) is actually missing B4 and B7. B4 is specifically for Civics made for Canada.

I used mirror image like you said and everything works...There's continuity in all connections...which leaves me to only one conclusion: the light switch is dead!

by the way do u happen to know what the small metal tab on the side of the switch unit is for? please look at the picture...

I used mirror image like you said and everything works...There's continuity in all connections...

I am confused. Did you do the continuity tests on the terminals in the black connector of the removed switch? All tests were fine so you are concluding the switch is bad?

oh shoot! i'm an idiot haha...i tested only on the harness connector...so what you saying is i have to test between the switch unit and the harness connector...i will go test it now and let u know in a bit...

Do the tests on the 7P black switch connector with the switch clicked into the positions indicated in the top table.

hey ronj,

yeah i tried everything...connect the multimeter to the switch unit and the harness connector, flip to the dim position test using the diagram: no continuity; flip to high beam position test using the diagram: no continuity.

i think i'm gonna have to buy a new light switch...i think it's dead!

The multimeter requires charged batteries to measure resistance. With the multimeter switched to measure Ohms (resistance), does the Ohm reading jump significantly (0 resistance/Ohms) when you touch the two probes of the multimeter together? If so, then the multimeter is working and the switch is bad.

See if you can Flash High Beams.
If the Switch is OK to close the Momentary and let the High Beams ON ...
This would indicate that there is a problem with the Headlights ON Switch closing or the Relay protecting that part of the Switch is bad.

See if you can Flash High Beams.
...This would indicate that there is a problem with ...or the Relay protecting that part of the Switch is bad.

I think you mean Fuse rather than Relay. The OP mentioned that he checked the fuses.

The multimeter works...it'll beeps continuosly when the negative and positive probes touch but when I tried to connect the harness connector with the switch unit it doesn't make any beeping sounds and yes the battery is fully charged (i'm still driving the car)...