Automatic to Manual Transmission Conversion
#1
Automatic to Manual Transmission Conversion
Special thanks to 93delsolsi from www.hondaswap.com for this one.
Auto to Manual Conversion for Civics 92-95
These FAQ should be identical for 96-98 Honda Civic EX. Obtain the following parts: Manual Transmission Clutch Pressure Plate Flywheel Clutch Hydraulic System Composed of these parts: Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Lines Clutch Master Cylinder Hydraulic Reservoir Clutch Pedal Clutch Pedal Sensors AND plugs Brake and Gas Pedal Manual Transmission ECU Shift Linkage Shift Boot Shift **** Upper Transmission Mount Front Transmission Stabilizer.
Exterior:
Remove and replace automatic transmission with manual unit. Interior: You must remove the armrest/center console and shift boot trim panels to gain access to the shifter and related parts. You will see that the shifter cable runs through the floorboard to the transmission. Remove the cable. Take an air-chisel and remove the welds that hold cable guide bracket that you just removed. You need to remove this to allow access for the manual transmission shifter linkage to work properly. To fill in this huge hole, use a piece of sheet metal, and trim it to fit. Attach it with self-tapping sheet metal screws.
On the shifter for the auto transmission, you will see a 14-wire plug. Cut the plug from the auto shifter assembly, and leave about 5 inches of wire. Looking at the plug, the positions are (left to right) (top row) 14,13,12,11,10,9,8 and (bottom row) 7,6,5,4,3,2,1.
Starter (top) Sensor:
There are two heavy gauge wires (position #11 and position #12). Connect these two wires to the top sensor (clutch interlock switch) on the clutch pedal assembly. This will only allow the car to start when the clutch pedal is engaged. In other words, every time you press the clutch you will close the circuit.
Cruise Control (bottom) Sensor:
The bottom switch is your cruise control disable switch. Run two wires from the switch: connect one to the position #7 (black) and the other to #13 (pink). Every time you press the clutch pedal, the cruise control will disable. Removing the Key: On the 14-wire plug, there is a black wire you will need to connect to a green wire with a white stripe. This puts the car in "park" so you can take the key out at any time. Reverse Lights: Look at the plug you used on the engine wiring harness to hook up to your reverse sensor on the manual transmission. Run two wires from this switch to the yellow wire and a green wire with black stripe (positions 4 and 5) at the big plug that you cut off from the auto shifter. Now your reverse lights should work. I have heard that if you replace your automatic ECU with a manual one, your reverse lights will work without extra wiring. This has yet to be proven or not (I am still using the auto ECU until next week).
Price: around $1500
AGAIN, thanks for delsolsi from hondaswap for the borrowed writeup.
For those of you with OBD-I PCM's, you can convert your automatic PCM to a manual unit; OBD-0 and OBD-II will have to swap out for the actual manual unit.
For the people with an OBD-I PCM, this is all you need to do:
If you don't have good soldering skills, I'd recommend buying the manual PCM since poor soldering can potentially ruin the PCM.
Thanks to trustdestruction for information about converting the PCM
Auto to Manual Conversion for Civics 92-95
These FAQ should be identical for 96-98 Honda Civic EX. Obtain the following parts: Manual Transmission Clutch Pressure Plate Flywheel Clutch Hydraulic System Composed of these parts: Slave Cylinder Hydraulic Lines Clutch Master Cylinder Hydraulic Reservoir Clutch Pedal Clutch Pedal Sensors AND plugs Brake and Gas Pedal Manual Transmission ECU Shift Linkage Shift Boot Shift **** Upper Transmission Mount Front Transmission Stabilizer.
Exterior:
Remove and replace automatic transmission with manual unit. Interior: You must remove the armrest/center console and shift boot trim panels to gain access to the shifter and related parts. You will see that the shifter cable runs through the floorboard to the transmission. Remove the cable. Take an air-chisel and remove the welds that hold cable guide bracket that you just removed. You need to remove this to allow access for the manual transmission shifter linkage to work properly. To fill in this huge hole, use a piece of sheet metal, and trim it to fit. Attach it with self-tapping sheet metal screws.
On the shifter for the auto transmission, you will see a 14-wire plug. Cut the plug from the auto shifter assembly, and leave about 5 inches of wire. Looking at the plug, the positions are (left to right) (top row) 14,13,12,11,10,9,8 and (bottom row) 7,6,5,4,3,2,1.
Starter (top) Sensor:
There are two heavy gauge wires (position #11 and position #12). Connect these two wires to the top sensor (clutch interlock switch) on the clutch pedal assembly. This will only allow the car to start when the clutch pedal is engaged. In other words, every time you press the clutch you will close the circuit.
Cruise Control (bottom) Sensor:
The bottom switch is your cruise control disable switch. Run two wires from the switch: connect one to the position #7 (black) and the other to #13 (pink). Every time you press the clutch pedal, the cruise control will disable. Removing the Key: On the 14-wire plug, there is a black wire you will need to connect to a green wire with a white stripe. This puts the car in "park" so you can take the key out at any time. Reverse Lights: Look at the plug you used on the engine wiring harness to hook up to your reverse sensor on the manual transmission. Run two wires from this switch to the yellow wire and a green wire with black stripe (positions 4 and 5) at the big plug that you cut off from the auto shifter. Now your reverse lights should work. I have heard that if you replace your automatic ECU with a manual one, your reverse lights will work without extra wiring. This has yet to be proven or not (I am still using the auto ECU until next week).
Price: around $1500
AGAIN, thanks for delsolsi from hondaswap for the borrowed writeup.
For those of you with OBD-I PCM's, you can convert your automatic PCM to a manual unit; OBD-0 and OBD-II will have to swap out for the actual manual unit.
For the people with an OBD-I PCM, this is all you need to do:
If you don't have good soldering skills, I'd recommend buying the manual PCM since poor soldering can potentially ruin the PCM.
Thanks to trustdestruction for information about converting the PCM
Last edited by trustdestruction; 02-24-2010 at 09:04 PM. Reason: added information about converting PCM's
#2
RE: Auto to Manual Conversion
i have a 98 honda civic LX, and i doing the same conversion, and im wondering if i get a manual ECU, is all this wiring still necessary, such as the start sensor and cruise control.
#3
RE: Auto to Manual Conversion
how much does a conversion like this cost?
#4
RE: Auto to Manual Conversion
well it only cost me $800 for parts and labor!!!!
#6
RE: Auto to Manual Conversion
Actually, if you have some soldering skills you can save on ECU and convert whatever you have. Worked for me when my ECU got fried and the only p28 around was auto. Ieven drove it with auto ECU for several months until I got tired of CEL and then I found the solution.
EDIT: forgot the link LOL
EDIT: forgot the link LOL
#7
RE: Auto to Manual Conversion
o, too much work
i rather just buy another car that's stick
i rather just buy another car that's stick
#8
RE: Auto to Manual Conversion
ORIGINAL: b3nSoNx
o, too much work
i rather just buy another car that's stick
o, too much work
i rather just buy another car that's stick
#9
RE: Auto to Manual Conversion
[:'(]I'm going to do this.
#10
RE: Auto to Manual Conversion
how does the manual tranny run?
as good as a stock manual?
or a little weird?
i might convert my accord's when my tranny goes out cause 800 is way cheaper than rebuilding the automatic
and how reliable is it?
as good as a stock manual?
or a little weird?
i might convert my accord's when my tranny goes out cause 800 is way cheaper than rebuilding the automatic
and how reliable is it?