I have a 2000 honda civic lx. I started the vehicle and attempted to leave the store and when I put the car in reverse and started backing, it sputtered and died. Now all it will do is spin over. Towed it home and found that I wasnt getting fire. After doing tests I came up with the conclusion that it was the ICM. Changed it and spark plugs and now I have spark and fuel but car will not attempt to start. It just spins over and doesnt even give a "pop". I was going to try and check timing but cant seem to find any marks on the crank pully. I do see the marks on the timing cover. When I do put the timing light on #1 and spin the car over, I'm not getting a light on any plug. But if I pull the plugs and plug them into the wire, I am getting fire and when I pulled the plugs they are wet with gasoline. So now I'm leaning towards timing. I'm getting fuel and spark and still no ignition. Not real experienced or a big fan of Hondas and not sure if I should be getting a timing light signal by just spinning the engine over on these cars.
Any suggestions?

 

On my grand am I recently had a similar sounding issue. I had spark, good gas pressure, etc but it just would not start. It ended up being that the pin on one of the cams broke off so the gear was spinning freely without the cam turning. Hope your situation turns out better than mine did.

 

pull the distributor cap off and bump the engine does the rotor turn?

 

I managed t get it running yesterday. The plugs that came out of the car were severely worn, more than likely the original plugs as the wires were. The gap was extremely off. I think the spec is .044 and these were all @ .075. It wasn't until I closed the gap way down was I able to get a spark. I changed the plugs and wires and had a spark but noticed it wasn't a nice sharp blue spark and was more like a white ball flash. Then I got to thinking about not being able to get a timing light flash when spinning the motor with my light attatched to any wire. Which led me to believe the inductance was low due to a low voltage. I was worried because after I purchased a new ignition coil for @ $80 I compared resistance readings with the old and new coils, they were exactly the same. But the coil was definitely the issue. Found out later that the person the car was purchased from had never had any maintenance performed on the car so the ICM, plugs, wires and coil were more than likely the original factory parts. So my suggestion to anyone struggling with similar issues would be when changing a suspected ICM, to also change the coil. I think the overall issue was the extreme gap in the plugs caused a higher amperage load on the other components causing them to fail over time.