Question about my hatchback.
#21
#22
Excellent link N4S, and thank you to everyone for all the "calm down bro" post I have been wanting to do something with this car for so long, I know I need to plan this thing out..thank you for presenting all the options!
I have to say that $800 vs. $4500 is a no brainer, but what am I getting with a D16Y8 other than a little more HP and a few lbs. of torque?
If I stay with the D series and go with a D16Z6 or D16Y8, I am getting a very nominal upgrade in base HP and torque, and if I read it right I will need to go to a turbo on it to get any real performance. What can I expect to gain from adding a turbo, I mean how much reliable HP and torque can I get out of a mild set up? I'm not looking to drag race, I would just love to be able to hit the peddle and feel like I'm moving. I used to run an 85 mustang GT with a hot 351, I’m not looking to run low 11's anymore, just have fun.
I see the main difference between the two D series motors is where the VTEC kicks in. 4800 vs. 5500 RPM, which is more desirable? I would think 4800 RPM would be better to get the boost lower in the rev, but I have never owned a VTEC before.
Is the bottom end on the D16Y8 different from the D16Y7 that is currently in the car?
My current tranny is still shot (rough shifting in 2nd and 3rd, and will not go into gear now - grinds and locks the car up.) is there a "better" tranny to swap to or should I rebuild/get a used one with the new motor?
If I decide to go with the VTEC D and upgrade with a turbo I am assuming I will need to completely redo the "breathing" In that it will need intake, exhaust, jetting or I guess injectors, ECM. How much more will that add to the total? The B18C1 may be $4500, but how much will it cost me to get a D16Y8 up to the 180 HP mark?
more questions, more reading. thanks again for all the input.
6th Generation
1. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. $4k-up
2. B16A2: Completely bolt in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. $3k-up
3. B16A3: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired, OBD Conversion. $3200-up
4. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. $5k-up
5. B18B1: Completely bolt-in swap. $3k-up
6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. $4500-up
7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired. $3500-up
8. D16Z6: Completely bolt-in, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired. $800 for complete swap
9. D16Y8: Completely bolt-in, VTEC needs to be wired. $800 for complete swap
1. B18C1: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. $4k-up
2. B16A2: Completely bolt in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. $3k-up
3. B16A3: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired, OBD Conversion. $3200-up
4. B18C5: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. $5k-up
5. B18B1: Completely bolt-in swap. $3k-up
6. B16B: Completely bolt-in swap, VTEC needs to be wired. $4500-up
7. H22A: Mount kit required, Hasport shift linkage, VTEC needs to be wired. $3500-up
8. D16Z6: Completely bolt-in, OBD conversion, VTEC needs to be wired. $800 for complete swap
9. D16Y8: Completely bolt-in, VTEC needs to be wired. $800 for complete swap
If I stay with the D series and go with a D16Z6 or D16Y8, I am getting a very nominal upgrade in base HP and torque, and if I read it right I will need to go to a turbo on it to get any real performance. What can I expect to gain from adding a turbo, I mean how much reliable HP and torque can I get out of a mild set up? I'm not looking to drag race, I would just love to be able to hit the peddle and feel like I'm moving. I used to run an 85 mustang GT with a hot 351, I’m not looking to run low 11's anymore, just have fun.
I see the main difference between the two D series motors is where the VTEC kicks in. 4800 vs. 5500 RPM, which is more desirable? I would think 4800 RPM would be better to get the boost lower in the rev, but I have never owned a VTEC before.
Is the bottom end on the D16Y8 different from the D16Y7 that is currently in the car?
My current tranny is still shot (rough shifting in 2nd and 3rd, and will not go into gear now - grinds and locks the car up.) is there a "better" tranny to swap to or should I rebuild/get a used one with the new motor?
If I decide to go with the VTEC D and upgrade with a turbo I am assuming I will need to completely redo the "breathing" In that it will need intake, exhaust, jetting or I guess injectors, ECM. How much more will that add to the total? The B18C1 may be $4500, but how much will it cost me to get a D16Y8 up to the 180 HP mark?
more questions, more reading. thanks again for all the input.
#23
the turboD16 can withstand 200whp reliably
the tranny and motor you want to get (if you go turbo D16) is the D16y8 (i can explain why if you want to know)
this should answer what you need: http://hondaswap.com/turbo-informati...rbo-kit-81384/
also check out these websites- http://www.d-series.org/forums/ and www.homemadeturbo.com
and yes the turboD16 is cheaper ( i wont argue that)
the tranny and motor you want to get (if you go turbo D16) is the D16y8 (i can explain why if you want to know)
this should answer what you need: http://hondaswap.com/turbo-informati...rbo-kit-81384/
also check out these websites- http://www.d-series.org/forums/ and www.homemadeturbo.com
and yes the turboD16 is cheaper ( i wont argue that)
Last edited by hamorhead; 06-11-2010 at 01:00 PM.
#25
Called a local junkyard and he had the motor, tranny, and ECU for $3700 (motor $2500, trans $1000, and ECU $200). I know pricing is different per region, but is that a decent price for all three? I was checking local first, but I would definately ship one in if they are cheaper around the country.
they are rippin you off. 2,700 for motor trans and ecu low miles and start-up warranty. check jdmenginescorp.com jdmenginedepot.com tiger japanese engines stuff like that.
stay away from ebay and junk yards for anything mechanical.
#28
If you saved that 5K for something important, I think you should save much of it just in case.
The D16y8 swap will give you a noticeable gain. If you wanted to flip this car for some money, you could swap in the y8 and clean it up. Cheap power.
An even cheaper method is just swapping the y7 head for a y8 head, called a mini-me swap. (you also switch computers and add a couple of wires for vtec.) Add that to your already necessary transmission swap and you would have a decent ride.
The D16y8 swap will give you a noticeable gain. If you wanted to flip this car for some money, you could swap in the y8 and clean it up. Cheap power.
An even cheaper method is just swapping the y7 head for a y8 head, called a mini-me swap. (you also switch computers and add a couple of wires for vtec.) Add that to your already necessary transmission swap and you would have a decent ride.
#29
thanks for the post, I was wondering if the bottom end on my current motor was worth keeping WellFedHobo, something else to look at... I have been out of town this weekend for a business trip and couldn't get internet at the hotel where I had planned to read all the links everyone posted, on top of that some drunk *$%#^#* pulled the fire alarm at 4 AM... going to bed early, will read more tomorrow.
thanks again!
thanks again!
#30
I would go Z6 over Y8 anyday. OBD1, and if you turbo it you don't gotta worry about the oil pump like on the Y8. Also has slightly lower compression (9.2:1, as opposed to the Y8's 9.6:1), another small plus when turbocharging. Oh, and the D16Z6 head flows the best out of all D-series heads. The D16Z6 has 2 less HP and 5 less ft-lb of torque, but once you are turbocharged, that won't matter. It's barely a difference in stock form anyway.
Last edited by trustdestruction; 06-12-2010 at 06:28 PM.