To owners of current model (i.e. 2006/2007) Civic Sedans: what is the actual gas mileage you're getting? We're in the market for a Civic EX automatic, its EPA mileage is 30/40 which, of course, is never the case.

 

hello welcome to HCF , but ur question have been answer plenty of times most people get about 30-40 miles as u already stated above. it all depend on how hardof adriver u are by tht i mean if ur the type of driver thats alway slamming the gas pedal down and have bad road rage, also if u have an intake/ headers u will get better gas milage since the car will be breathing better. for anymore information just use the search feature all u have to do is type in *Gas milage*
https://www.hondacivicforum.com/search.asp

 

hey, i went to tennesse from va last week, coming back i went 477 miles on 11.184 gallons of gas. 42.6 mpg. on an auto 06 with 600 pounds of weight and driving thru the mountains with ac on nonstop. i avearge 35 mpg all the time though.

 

ya like any vehicle... depends on the drivers driving style.........

my 99 civic says 32mpg city and 37highway
best ive got was 34mpg city and 38mpg highway
but depending on my crazy driving that i typicaly do usualy runs me down to 28mpg...

depends on how your foot work is
let off the gas and coast to a stop sign or red light.... = beter gas milage...
slowly take off from a stop = beter gas milage....


stomp the gas HARD from a stop = WORSE gas milage...
hold the gas pedal till your so close to a stop sign or stop light and have to nose dive the car to stop = WORSE milage and abuse on brakes as well

thats why these are ESTIMATED milage readings.........

ya could get beter... ya could get worse...

 

What about putting the car in neutral at stops? (for autos) I believe that is why mauals get better mpg than aotus right?

 

well not realy... manuals get beter milage cause they coast alot further....

see with a manaul ya slap the shifter in neutral and the cars tranny isnt held back at all and the wheels just spin freely.....
BUT with a automatic the tranny is still engaged so the motor is still TRYING to turn the wheels using up more gas....

 

also with manual u get to change gears either at a low rpm or high rpm for example u could be goin 20 mph in 3 gearthan when u reach 30mph u put it4th or 5th gear than u can just cruise from there. with automatic u cant do tht

 

Way off base here. Sorry Bro, let me explain.

Manuals typically get better (notice 2 't's) fuel mileage under normal conditions because of the direct interface of the engine's flywheel to the transmission's input shaft via the clutch assembly. The clutch only slips (causing the inefficiency) when beginning to move from a stop, and ever so briefly when changing gears - when driven properly.

An automatic relies on the torque converter to build fluid pressure within itself using centrifugal force to 'act' like a clutch, slipping between the flywheel and the input shaft of the transmission. The torque converter's shell is attached to the flywheel, while the transmission's input shaft is attached to the internal turbine. When the rpms are low, the torque converter is in 'full slip' mode, and as the rpms rise to towards the stall speed rating, the torque converter 'slips' until the internal turbine and input shaft of the transmission matches speed with the flywheel. The torque converter also slips during gear changes to smooth out the transition.

The automatic transmission itself also relies on fluid pressure in the valve body to compress the servo, which tightens a band (or series of bands) that aid in gear changes. Along with all of the internal friction clutches and fluid pressure pathway controlled functionality, the automatic transmission is quite literally a marvel in friction and fluid dynamics... and VERY inefficient, resulting in poorer fuel mileage compared to a manual transmission. And by design, until the fluid pressures build up (because of increased engine rpms), the automatic transmission is basically disengaged - which is why the car will 'coast' when you let off the gas, unless the transmission is either worn, or tuned 'tighter' than normal.


And the manual transmission is also never fully disengaged from the driveline. The input shaft (when the clutch is not disengaged) spins at the same rate as the engine's flywheel along with the entire clutch assembly (which is actually attached to the flywheel). The clutch disk is attached to the input shaft of the transmission, and when the clutch is disengaged (pedal pushed in), the clutch disk is released and the transmission's input shaft matches the speed of the rest of the transmission - or stops spinning (eventually) if the transmission's in neutral. Since the input shaft is married to the clutch and flywheel, there also needs to be a way to disengage one gear and select another - which is why the input shaft freewheels in comparison to the rest of the drive gears, and transfers power via a countershaft gear, which is in constant contact with the input shaft as well. This is where the division of the transmission happens. The drive gears are married to the driveline, and spin along with the wheels and driveshafts when the car is rolling - or are stopped when the car is stopped. Since there are more than one drive gears in the transmission, the rate in which the drive gears spin vary depending on which drive gear is selected (gear ratios). The gears are selected by a series of shift forks that slide a ring gear (that the forks ride in) along the main shaft to engage whichever gear is being selected (by a design of the various linkage and shift-shafts inside the shifter assembly, which prevents more than one gear from being selected at a time). 'Neutral' occurs when the ring gears are not in a selected gear position. It also 'technically' occurs when the clutch is disengaged (pedal pushed in), but is not truly neutral.

How far a car 'coasts' is determined by the driver... not the equipment (unless mechanical wear factors in).

I learned the how it all works the hard way when I had to rebuild my Jeep's 4-speed transmission, and later my mom's Nissan Sentra's automatic. But you can check it out on http://www.howstuffworks.com

Sorry for the novel.

Oh yeah - my '95 EG HB is pulling 28 mpg. But it has over 190,000 miles, is going through the 1000 mile 'break-in' after a valve job/head replacement (before re-adjusting the valve lash and re-torquing the head bolts, then retiming everything), and I'm currently 'driving it like I stole it' since it's a new toy. Even so, it's still getting 250+% better gas mileage than my 4x4 Dodge Ram.

 

Here are links to the logfile pages of my '06 LX Sedan with manual tranny. The local Honda dealer says that most of the folks who come in with auto trannies, that do mostly city driving, get in the 28-30 range. I do a lot of coasting and drafting, and try to use the brake as little as possible. Most of the time I am slowed down to under 25 MPH before I touch the brakes. When in gas conservation mode I try to upshift at about 1700 RPM. I am averaging about 36 MPG overall.

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[IMG]local://upfiles/19981/0AACAA5319EE4A538A169B1F7A6FBBB0.jpg[/IMG]

 

thats great example of how to monitor fuel economy. thats about what i am averaging nearly 20000 miles now.