Turbos
#1
Turbos
I'm sorry I am asking so many questions lately I just want to know a little more.
I just have a couple of simple questions about setting up a turbo.
#1 MY b18c1 has about 100k on it would it be safe to run a tune providing 250whp or less on 8psi? (I know it probably depends on the person who's doing it and the maintenance done on the car, but what do you think?)
#2 I'll be doing a put together turbo kit consisting of some of the things off ebay just NOT the turbo manifold and NOT the turbo unless I know it's safe. Other wise I'd probably go with a dsm turbo or other used turbo. (any recommendations on that?)
#3 and what program offers the best? Hondata or AEM? I know the AEM system is the whole OBDII ecu, while Hondata you have a use an OBDI (s300)
Anyways thanks for your help and once again sorry about all the questions.
I just have a couple of simple questions about setting up a turbo.
#1 MY b18c1 has about 100k on it would it be safe to run a tune providing 250whp or less on 8psi? (I know it probably depends on the person who's doing it and the maintenance done on the car, but what do you think?)
#2 I'll be doing a put together turbo kit consisting of some of the things off ebay just NOT the turbo manifold and NOT the turbo unless I know it's safe. Other wise I'd probably go with a dsm turbo or other used turbo. (any recommendations on that?)
#3 and what program offers the best? Hondata or AEM? I know the AEM system is the whole OBDII ecu, while Hondata you have a use an OBDI (s300)
Anyways thanks for your help and once again sorry about all the questions.
#2
1. Do a compression test and tell us what the numbers are. 250whp on a stock b series block is fine as long as it is tuned properly.
2. ebay is good for piping, and possibly an intercooler. Stay away from anything else IMO.
3. I prefer Hondata.
2. ebay is good for piping, and possibly an intercooler. Stay away from anything else IMO.
3. I prefer Hondata.
#4
ebay has legit sellers with legit products. Skip past all the generic no name turbos and look at the real stuff.
#5
Ok so I did a compression test and the ****ty hose exploded. I took it back to the auto parts store and it had a warranty so it was cool.
But now my car wont even make a spark it wont start at all. So we found out the plug wires are ****ty and gone. The casing for the ignition is pretty much corroded and gone and maybe even the coil pack is gone. For some reason, I'll post results tomorrow because were going to replace all that stuff it just blows my mind to think that all that stuff would just fall apart like that after I try something as simple as a compression test.
But now my car wont even make a spark it wont start at all. So we found out the plug wires are ****ty and gone. The casing for the ignition is pretty much corroded and gone and maybe even the coil pack is gone. For some reason, I'll post results tomorrow because were going to replace all that stuff it just blows my mind to think that all that stuff would just fall apart like that after I try something as simple as a compression test.
#6
if you don't already know, to do a compression test remove the fuel pump fuse under the dash(15a), remove all spark plugs.
When testing each cylinder make sure gas pedal is all the way down and you let engine turn over about 5 times. Compare numbers across all 4 cylinders.
I would then drive the car or let it warm up to normal temps, do another compression test. Compare all 4 numbers. They should be higher than cold tests, and they should still be consistent across all 4.
When testing each cylinder make sure gas pedal is all the way down and you let engine turn over about 5 times. Compare numbers across all 4 cylinders.
I would then drive the car or let it warm up to normal temps, do another compression test. Compare all 4 numbers. They should be higher than cold tests, and they should still be consistent across all 4.
Last edited by inthezoneac; 07-27-2012 at 02:22 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post