What happens to my car if the Struts are broken?
#11
12-30-2008, 08:09 PM
Hmm guess i'll look at the Control Arm on the weekend when me and my dad take off the front tires to inspect the brakes. Heres the thing i've got alot of stuff that i supposedly have to do to the car, i would just be better off selling the car and going for another one then. The struct/control arm was fine when i test drove it as i didn't hear a thing. The struct thing is rare only a slope at work but were in the process of moving so i might not even hear that again for while. I've got money to do it, i'm just you know in shock with having to spend so much. As to repairs heres a current list of what i supposedly have to do to the car without labor charges.
New Tires : $300
Timing Belt Kit: $200
Rear Structs: $286
Oil Pan Gasket: $30
Front Brakes: $45
Control Arm = $100 (not sure)
Heres a summary of what i've spent so far
Car = $4800
Mobil 1 0W-20 Oil = 41.94
Mobil 1 Oil Filter = $9.99
Spark Plugs= $ 9.96
Air Filter = $42
Corrison on Roof Repaired = $300
Tag & Title Tranfer = $305
Total Cost = 6466.89
Do u see where i'm getting at? And that's not counting labor.
New Tires : $300
Timing Belt Kit: $200
Rear Structs: $286
Oil Pan Gasket: $30
Front Brakes: $45
Control Arm = $100 (not sure)
Heres a summary of what i've spent so far
Car = $4800
Mobil 1 0W-20 Oil = 41.94
Mobil 1 Oil Filter = $9.99
Spark Plugs= $ 9.96
Air Filter = $42
Corrison on Roof Repaired = $300
Tag & Title Tranfer = $305
Total Cost = 6466.89
Do u see where i'm getting at? And that's not counting labor.
and labor?
wtf is labor?
#12
12-31-2008, 05:40 PM
Just to clarify, LCA = Lower control arm. (Your civic doesn't even have any upper control arm, so it's no biggie!)
Are you sure they said the control arm was cracked, or maybe just that the bushing was cracked? If it literally is cracked, that's a SERIOUS safety issue! A bushing cracking is just a failure of the bushing from normal use and should be replaced soon, depending on the severity.
For the struts, try pushing down each corner of the car, and see how it reacts. If it comes back up smoothly and doesn't bounce much then you're fine. If it bounces a few times, then you probably have a blown strut. Also look for fluid leaks on the strut which would mean that they are blown. Other than that, I wouldn't trust Firestone unless you can verify that diagnosis. As the the control arm, definitely check that out ASAP.
IMO, it isn't worth it to sell the car...any car will have maintenance like this, it's just a question of when. The struggle of selling it is more a pain then just fixing it and knowing that you have a solid car.
Good luck!
Are you sure they said the control arm was cracked, or maybe just that the bushing was cracked? If it literally is cracked, that's a SERIOUS safety issue! A bushing cracking is just a failure of the bushing from normal use and should be replaced soon, depending on the severity.
For the struts, try pushing down each corner of the car, and see how it reacts. If it comes back up smoothly and doesn't bounce much then you're fine. If it bounces a few times, then you probably have a blown strut. Also look for fluid leaks on the strut which would mean that they are blown. Other than that, I wouldn't trust Firestone unless you can verify that diagnosis. As the the control arm, definitely check that out ASAP.
IMO, it isn't worth it to sell the car...any car will have maintenance like this, it's just a question of when. The struggle of selling it is more a pain then just fixing it and knowing that you have a solid car.
Good luck!
#13
01-01-2009, 08:47 AM
Just to clarify, LCA = Lower control arm. (Your civic doesn't even have any upper control arm, so it's no biggie!)
Are you sure they said the control arm was cracked, or maybe just that the bushing was cracked? If it literally is cracked, that's a SERIOUS safety issue! A bushing cracking is just a failure of the bushing from normal use and should be replaced soon, depending on the severity.
For the struts, try pushing down each corner of the car, and see how it reacts. If it comes back up smoothly and doesn't bounce much then you're fine. If it bounces a few times, then you probably have a blown strut. Also look for fluid leaks on the strut which would mean that they are blown. Other than that, I wouldn't trust Firestone unless you can verify that diagnosis. As the the control arm, definitely check that out ASAP.
IMO, it isn't worth it to sell the car...any car will have maintenance like this, it's just a question of when. The struggle of selling it is more a pain then just fixing it and knowing that you have a solid car.
Good luck!
Are you sure they said the control arm was cracked, or maybe just that the bushing was cracked? If it literally is cracked, that's a SERIOUS safety issue! A bushing cracking is just a failure of the bushing from normal use and should be replaced soon, depending on the severity.
For the struts, try pushing down each corner of the car, and see how it reacts. If it comes back up smoothly and doesn't bounce much then you're fine. If it bounces a few times, then you probably have a blown strut. Also look for fluid leaks on the strut which would mean that they are blown. Other than that, I wouldn't trust Firestone unless you can verify that diagnosis. As the the control arm, definitely check that out ASAP.
IMO, it isn't worth it to sell the car...any car will have maintenance like this, it's just a question of when. The struggle of selling it is more a pain then just fixing it and knowing that you have a solid car.
Good luck!
Last edited by WILMER007; 01-01-2009 at 08:51 AM.
#14
01-01-2009, 11:55 AM
Ok heres pictures of what Honda was showing me, that i just took. If you know anything that can help me that would be great. BTW i checked the struts by pushing down like bakertime said, on each corner and the car came back up quick and no bouncing at all so i guess there fine.
Here are the pics on the LCA from both side on the front tires.
Here are the pics on the LCA from both side on the front tires.
#15
01-02-2009, 09:16 PM
Yeah, that bushing is toast. I wouldn't drive that car until that's fixed if I were you. I believe that's referred to as the compliance bushing, and that's a normal thing to wear out over time. When I had my 01 Civic I had to replace it about a year and a half ago.
Replace with an OEM bushing, none of that Polyurethane stuff. Those can't rotate on multiple axes, so you are left with a very altered suspension geometry that can reacte unpredictably and cause damage! You might want to have a shop do the work, although you could probably remove the arms yourself and save on some labor. Any auto shop should be willing to press the old ones out and the new ones in for you.
Sounds like your struts are fine also, unless you can see some fluid leaking out of them!
Zach
Replace with an OEM bushing, none of that Polyurethane stuff. Those can't rotate on multiple axes, so you are left with a very altered suspension geometry that can reacte unpredictably and cause damage! You might want to have a shop do the work, although you could probably remove the arms yourself and save on some labor. Any auto shop should be willing to press the old ones out and the new ones in for you.
Sounds like your struts are fine also, unless you can see some fluid leaking out of them!
Zach
#16
01-02-2009, 10:28 PM
Yeah - baker has a good point. Polyurethane bushings are WORTHLESS for a DD. They don't last as long as stock, and make for a bouncy ride. IMO they should only be used for track.
Getting that from Honda will probably be like 50 - 80 bucks...somewhere in that ballpark.
If you go ahead and pull the arm off yourself - you can take it to a shop and have them pull and press in the new one for you. They shouldn't charge you more than 20 bucks.
Getting that from Honda will probably be like 50 - 80 bucks...somewhere in that ballpark.
If you go ahead and pull the arm off yourself - you can take it to a shop and have them pull and press in the new one for you. They shouldn't charge you more than 20 bucks.
#17
01-10-2009, 02:35 PM
Ok well i took the car today to a shop and get quoted for $200 labor with me buying the parts, they said they needed to take out the arm to press the new ones in. Is it difficult to take out the arm and save some $$$ by taking it out myself....
need a response by tommorrow as i'm doing new tires and alignment on monday so i can kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
need a response by tommorrow as i'm doing new tires and alignment on monday so i can kill 2 birds with 1 stone.
#18
01-31-2009, 04:56 PM
Well just thought i let everyone know i was finally able to get the control arms off today after trying for a month. Took them to New Jersey Auto Parts (BUMPER TO BUMPER) and they charged me $20 to press in the Compliance Bushings like you guys said they would and put them back in. Now just gotta wait and see if i hear the noise when i drive around town.
Thanks for everyone's help.
Thanks for everyone's help.
#19
02-11-2009, 06:59 PM
Yup a quick update for any future readers with a similar problem. It's been 11 days now and the sound it completely gone. I feel so relieved that i don't hear it anymore and takes my worries away. So when in doubt check your compliance bushings. Very inexpensive parts and labor if you buy the parts and DIY. Spent no more than $60 for parts and pressings. Would have spent $40 if i bought the bushings online and not at my local dealer. Oh well you learn from your mistakes.
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