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03 civic radiator and fluid question

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  #1  
Old 04-14-2015, 12:20 PM
jahwarrior1423's Avatar
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Default 03 civic radiator and fluid question

New to the forum.

I have a 03 Civic with a 1.7L with 175k mile that I recently replaced my water pump, new head gasket and had the head rebuilt, T stat replaced and fan temp sensor replaced.

I am wanting to replace my radiator more so for "preventative" maintenance. I found a radiator online for $60 shipped (denso brand) from rock auto and am wondering if that'll be a sufficient replacement or is there a dual core radiator somewhere?...the reason why I want a new radiator because that'll give me basically a all new cooling system.

Also, which radiator fluid should I use?...I see big raves about Honda blue fluid. I would assume I would need to do a total fluid flush from my car to make sure ALL green fluid is out of my current system so I don't get any chance of fluid mix.

What do you guys recommend as for a radiator and which fluid?
 
  #2  
Old 04-14-2015, 02:08 PM
itburnswhenIP's Avatar
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Posts: 722
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honestly if theres nothing wrong with your stock radiator then replacing it is just a waste of time and money. if your dead set then DENSO would be fine since there an OEM manufacturer of many honda parts. as far as coolant goes yes only use oem honda blue these engines are very picky when it comes to certain additives like silicates. your going to wanr to flush the system with distilled water not with tap and also use a flushing adapter kit similar to this just make sure it has a honda radiator adapter
Amazon.com: Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive Amazon.com: Lisle 24610 Spill-Free Funnel: Automotive
so air is not introduced to the system there around $30 bucks at most auto parts stores.
 

Last edited by itburnswhenIP; 04-14-2015 at 02:14 PM.
  #3  
Old 01-01-2017, 12:56 PM
Honda2017's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 2
Question Cooling System Flush for hard mineral deposits

New user. I also have a 2003 Civic 1.7l Vtek. Head was warped and had overheating issue. Head machined and lasted for 1 year before overheating problems reoccurred. Managed loss of coolant 2nd time for a few months by avoiding freeway driving and only driving locally topping up radiator before/after each short trip. Mistake made was using tap water.

Bought new head and just did head replacement. Also decided to change out all cooling system components. Inspection of T-stat manifold, water pump, and all visible water passages shows heavy mineral deposits, presumably from hard water used. Suspect I need to do a complete cooling system flush but need to use a chemical that will breakdown the mineral deposits. Would like to do this BEFORE I install the new rad.

Can anyone recommend a procedure to chemically flush the engine without using the old rad (still in place but disconnected) or the new rad since I don't want to clog the new rad with the removed deposits? Also, should I remove the T-stat when flushing both with and without running the engine? I considered flushing with distilled water and CLR or ZEP (calcium, Lime & rust dissolver). I used ZEP with a brush to clean the deposits from the T-stat housing and then soaked/rinsed in water to neutralize the acid. The bottle does not disclosed what concentration or type of acid but it does say not to use on aluminum and other metals. No idea if it will harm seals hence this request. I also have a generic coolant flush but suspect this will not touch the mineral deposits.

New head and water pump are currently installed but still need to instal timing belt, intake manifold, alt, PS pump, rad, fans, etc.... Was planning to replace the rad and hoses last and now that I see how much mineral deposits are present I need to do a serious chem/treat and flush.

I've seen a post suggesting to use a dishwashing soap pre-flush followed by a citric acid flush from a Mercedes procedure. Also a suggestion to use vinegar but nothing confirming either of these treatments are acceptable for a Honda engine (aluminum, sells, etc.). Bottomline, I don't want to reassemble without trying to remove the scale/deposits as this may be the original problem that caused the overheating and head warping-both times.

Appreciate any advice that won't make my problems worse!
 
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