1998 Honda Civic A/c Not working
#31
Congatulations on the gratifying fix.
In ON(II), does the radiator fan run when you jump/short the unplugged 2P connector for the fan switch located on the thermostat housing? Any overheating problem?
In ON(II), does the radiator fan run when you jump/short the unplugged 2P connector for the fan switch located on the thermostat housing? Any overheating problem?
#32
Grateful to you Ron; Without your help, I not could have done this.
In ON(II), Yes, the radiator fan runs when I jump/short the unplugged 2P connector for the fan switch. Fuse is Ok in the hood. No overheating problem; The needle stays below the half mark.
In ON(II), Yes, the radiator fan runs when I jump/short the unplugged 2P connector for the fan switch. Fuse is Ok in the hood. No overheating problem; The needle stays below the half mark.
#33
I would do nothing unless you see the dash temp gauge rise above normal. Civic engines tend to run cool so the fan only runs occasionally under normal circumstances.
#34
RonJ - just want to jump in here with a word from my recent experience.
I was experiencing some symptoms of overheating (hesitation/bogging, steam from the radiator, etc) but the dash gauge never went above normal (just under half). Rad fan would NOT come on for anything (short of jumping the ETC). However once I properly bled the cooling system all was well. If it is properly bled I would suspect that the ETC switch has failed.
Double check that you've properly bled the cooling system (ROnJ, please post the instructions from your manual).
I was experiencing some symptoms of overheating (hesitation/bogging, steam from the radiator, etc) but the dash gauge never went above normal (just under half). Rad fan would NOT come on for anything (short of jumping the ETC). However once I properly bled the cooling system all was well. If it is properly bled I would suspect that the ETC switch has failed.
Double check that you've properly bled the cooling system (ROnJ, please post the instructions from your manual).
#35
Here you go:
Bleeding the cooling system:
(This procedure may take 20-30 minutes)
1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.
2) Push the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat.
3) Follow the directions in the diagram below
Bleeding the cooling system:
(This procedure may take 20-30 minutes)
1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.
2) Push the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat.
3) Follow the directions in the diagram below
#37
Question about pressure switch?
If one is jumpering the 2 pins on the pressure switch and the compressor clutch comes on, does this mean the pressure switch is bad? Also, if one is grounding the red/blu pin on the pressure switch and compressor clutch comes on, does this also indicate bad pressure switch... Thks in advance
#38
Unplug switch and measure ohms between the pins on the switch, it should be a closed circuit. If it is open, check the pressure with gauges. Pressure on the high and low sides will be the same with the compressor not running. You should have the saturation pressure for your ambient temperature, about 100 psi in the summer time. If < 50 psi there is practically no refrigerant, and the switch opens to protect the compressor. Jumping the switch without knowing the pressure is a bad idea.
If switch is closed but the voltage at the switch wires stays above ground and does not change when you press the A/C button, something is wrong with the control panel. Or the evaporator thermistor is bad and convincing the control panel the evaporator is cold when it is not.
If switch is closed but the voltage at the switch wires stays above ground and does not change when you press the A/C button, something is wrong with the control panel. Or the evaporator thermistor is bad and convincing the control panel the evaporator is cold when it is not.
#39
See picture attached. Thank you Both; The problem is solved; I ran a separate wire (see white color wire in the picture) from the Pressure switch to the C214 connector. I sliced wires 1" below the connectors and attached the new wire and taped it. Routed the wire along the firewall. The A/C runs perfectly. So the problem is that the blue/white wire is damaged some where in the middle
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