2002 Civic Manual Bogging Down
#1
2002 Civic Manual Bogging Down
Hey all, thanks in advance for your opinions! I recently bought a 2002 civic ex manual transmission, 143k miles. It ran fine on the test drive and on the way home. I changed the front window regulator when I got home. When done, I took it to the gas station to fill up. That is when I first noticed the problem.
I backed out of the driveway with no problems. I shifted into first, let the clutch out, and pulled away. Almost immediately, the engine bogged down and tried to stall. I quickly pushed the clutch in, tried to rev the engine to recover, but the engine didn't respond, just sputtered at about 200 RPMs. After a few seconds of this, the engine returned to normal idle, and the CEL came on. I tried again, same response. I waited for the engine to recover. I tried again, it worked fine and I shifted to second gear. After one second in second gear, it bogged down again. Again, I pushed in the clutch, tried to get it to recover, which it did after about five seconds.
This happened a few times. Then after about five times of it doing this, the problem went away and we went to the gas station with no more problems.
I tried to drive the car again this morning, exact same problem. This time, I put it back in the driveway not wanting to cause more problems. I am not sure if the problem would have went away this morning as I didn't spend much time with it.
Unrelated problems:
-The SRS light is on, what could be the issue?
-Funny noise (I know, really descriptive, I will fully diagnose when the above problem is fixed) coming from the transmission or clutch when moving at speed and I take my foot off of accelerator
-Power window binds when rolling up, about halfway up. The glass rotates counterclockwise, causing it to bind in track. I have to rotate it forward to get it to roll up.
Thanks for the help!!
I backed out of the driveway with no problems. I shifted into first, let the clutch out, and pulled away. Almost immediately, the engine bogged down and tried to stall. I quickly pushed the clutch in, tried to rev the engine to recover, but the engine didn't respond, just sputtered at about 200 RPMs. After a few seconds of this, the engine returned to normal idle, and the CEL came on. I tried again, same response. I waited for the engine to recover. I tried again, it worked fine and I shifted to second gear. After one second in second gear, it bogged down again. Again, I pushed in the clutch, tried to get it to recover, which it did after about five seconds.
This happened a few times. Then after about five times of it doing this, the problem went away and we went to the gas station with no more problems.
I tried to drive the car again this morning, exact same problem. This time, I put it back in the driveway not wanting to cause more problems. I am not sure if the problem would have went away this morning as I didn't spend much time with it.
Unrelated problems:
-The SRS light is on, what could be the issue?
-Funny noise (I know, really descriptive, I will fully diagnose when the above problem is fixed) coming from the transmission or clutch when moving at speed and I take my foot off of accelerator
-Power window binds when rolling up, about halfway up. The glass rotates counterclockwise, causing it to bind in track. I have to rotate it forward to get it to roll up.
Thanks for the help!!
#2
When the CEL comes on, there should be a code stored, so pull the codes. it sounds like either the crank sensor or the cam sensor is not working all the time.
SRS is the air bag system. This also has a trouble code that can be read but you may need to go to a dealer to do it.
SRS is the air bag system. This also has a trouble code that can be read but you may need to go to a dealer to do it.
#3
Thanks for the reply. I will read the CEL code when I get home this evening. What I wasn't sure of was if the CEL code condition caused the bogging/stalling, or the stalling/bogging caused the CEL code.
As for the SRS, should I reset using the reset procedure to see if the light returns, or should I just take it to the dealer for the $100 diagnostic?
As for the SRS, should I reset using the reset procedure to see if the light returns, or should I just take it to the dealer for the $100 diagnostic?
#5
Neither of those would cause or result from bogging / stalling. You may need to just drive some more until the problem either never reoccurs or becomes more permanent. Keep your OBDII reader handy. How low was the gas? Starving for gas of course an obvious problem that won't throw a code.
#6
The gas tank is full. Yesterday I started the vehicle and just sat in it as it idled. It was in neutral. Every 20 seconds or so the engine would act like it was going to stall (RPMs would drop to 200-300). After five seconds of the low RPMs, the engine would rev to 2500 RPMs, then go to normal. The cycle repeats again after ~20 seconds.
#8
p0420 is either a bad cat or a bad primary oxygen sensor which controls your air/fuel ratio. if the sensor has been running the car rich then it could have destroyed your cat converter. also when the car is cold the sensor will run open loop till the sensor is at proper operating temperature. replace the primary oxygen sensor with either DENSO or NTK nothing else thats very important i prefer DENSO.
Last edited by itburnswhenIP; 07-30-2014 at 03:28 PM.
#9
I made a video of the symptoms. Please let me know if the below link doesn't work.
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...nt=video%2cmp4
https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resi...nt=video%2cmp4
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