In the winter I have to put the car on charger every night otherwise no start.
In the summer charge twice a week.
I am getting 14 volt from the alternator, battery is fairly new, changed several times
does it with all batterys. trunk light is off, battery terminals and all grounds are good.
read about 2yrs of post today, haven't needed help for a few years, no luck.
I will do an amp draw test, the radio will power up, but does not play and I know
the radio has constant power for memory just havent gotten around to cutting power.
Some times the key will not go to full off position, key is worn.
I also saw something in the FAQ about temp sensor?
Thanks

 

Update:
So I connect my ammeter, with the key full off. And on the 250Ma scale I am pulling
200 Ma. no wonder the battery goes dead. I went ahead and pulled the dead radio,
needle went down just a hair. with the key off the only things that should draw power
are the clock and the ECU memory, right? From reading other threads I get the impression that normal would be a fraction of a milli amp.
The only thing I can think to do is pull fuses one at a time, and see what happens.

On a side note, I seem to remember this site had a "solved problem" section.
I can't seem to find that, has it been removed, or am I just missing something?

 

Update 2
Now this is strange, I hook up the meter and the first fuse I pull is for the shoulder belt
located on the + terminal of the batttery. amps drop from 200Ma to 25.
Pulled the second belt fuse, no change. Went to the engine fuse box, and pulled
the hazard light fuse, amps drop to 15Ma. Plugged the belt fuses back in and
amps go to 25, hazard back in and goes to 200. I can live without hazard lights,
and as long as the shoulder belts are in the up position thats cool.
None of the other fuses in the engine box show any change.

next to the under dash fuse box, because I do not want the dome light on while I do this
I move it to the off position, while doing this I notice that there is a difference in light
bright level between on all the time, and on with door open selected

One by one I remove all the fuses, no change on amps with any except,
the one that goes to the dome light, chime, clock and some other power on all the time stuf
when I pull that fuse, amps drop from 15 to about 5Ma

I have a factory manual, but can find no info on power draw.
I know the ECU is still pulling power, and I will check that today.
but 5Ma seems like a lot???

 

Update 3
So I pull the fuses for seat belt, hazard light, and dome-interior lights.
Take it for a test drive, when I get back the wife says it sounds quieter.
And it no longer has the honda idle surge, plus when I punch the gas,
it seems to have better power. I have seen some strange things in my days,
but this is a new one for me.

Edit: ( I know it is quieter, by the little dog, she could hear the car from a block away
now she can't hear it until the car pulls in the driveway, it's got her confused too)

 

Well, I made it almost a week without having to jump the car.
go out today and the battery is dead. I guess 5Ma is still too much draw.
Can anyone tell me what the ECU memory draw should be?