I have a 1991 honda civic si. I recently removed the previous motor swap (d15b non-vtec) and replaced it with a d15b vtec. I am using the PM6 ECU (vtec is not currently hooked up) Everything seemed to be going smooth until we tried to start it! First start we could not get anything from it. Later found the culprit to be the thermostat housing ground. After we solved that problem we found that we were not getting gas. We fixed this by rotating the main fuel line on the fuel rail to match the intake holes on the fuel rail (This has been a journey). So now we had fuel and some spark, but we couldn't get it to rev over 3000 rpms. We figured this was in the timing, so for 2 weeks we fiddled with the timing with no luck. Finally I read that I cannot use the OBD1 distributor that came with the motor, that I had to use my old OBD0 distributor. Now with the OBD0 distributor attached I am not getting ANYTHING!!!!!!!!!!! My 02 sensor, oil pressure and temperature sensors are not hooked up arm because my 0bd0 engine harness is trashed. This is a budget build I would really like a p08 ecu or p28 with a jumper harness, I just cannot afford it right now. If anyone knows anything about 0bd1 dizzy not working with the pm6 ecu, or why I cannot hit over 3k rpms with it please help. I am sure that it will not work so I am trying my 0bd0 but I cannot seem to get anything now!

 

Does it fire sparks at all? If not, maybe bad coil or ICM in the new distributor. If sparks fire, is the distributor 180 degrees off? TDC1 the engine then take the cap off and make sure the rotor is going to fire wire #1. The order of the other spark wires is 1,3,4,2. When you're rigging harnesses and splicing the sensor wires, the polarity of the two wires from each distributor sensor is important. Check continuity of the sensor wires by unplugging ECU and measuring sensor resistance all the way through the harness from the ECU plug. Also check for shorts to ground. Are there distributor sensor or any other codes showing on the ECU?

 

Ty for the reply MK. I figured out the hard way that my OBD1 dizzy was not going to work with my 0BD0 ECU (PM6), so I am now trying to use my OBD0 dizzy from my non vtec d15b MPFI motor. The problem I am running into seems to be that the dizzy does not fit right and will only run when turned 90+ degrees, but the dizzy will not mount on the head when turned like this. So I am trying to fix this by fixing the timing on the crank, but this does not seem to be working. Basically my question is when using an OBD0 dizzy with an OBD1 head, should the timing on the cam and crank still line up like normal? because I cannot get it to run like that!!!!! Also it seems as if I cannot turn the dizzy 180 because the ends that fit into the head will only match up one way???? is that right or wrong?

 

Different dizzys for VTEC and non-VTEC. The difference is only in how it mounts to the head. The timing belt / cam must be set to zero degrees or engine will not run at all. If the coupler is worn and/or you force it, the dizzy can be 180 degrees out. You must use the proper dizzy, in time, for the CYL sensor to be able to synchronize the MPFI properly.

 

Well its now running, I had to use the OBD0 Dizzy with the PM6 ecu. It is not running great, not exactly sure why yet. It seems to bog out some, and not have as much power as it should. I am going to get the correct ecu for the motor soon, either the P08 or P28 and a jumper harness and use the OBD1 ecu. With this setup (PM6 ecu, OBD1 dizzy on JDM D15b vtec (vtec not in use) it seems to be running really hot. QUESTION : my temp gauge isn't working and I cannot figure out why. There are 2 sensors on the block right, one under the dizzy and one on the back of the motor near the oil filter? maybe one is bad?

 

The gauge is driven by the sensor under the distributor, the one with one wire. If you disconnect the wire and ground it, the gauge should go up towards full hot when you turn the key on (turn key off before it slams at full hot). With wire open, it should stay at cold. The sensor on the back of the block is used only to turn the radiator fan on.

 

Ty for all the help MK now I know to focus on the sensor under the dizzy. I am going to check it tommorow and see if I can get it working.