I just bought a 93 civic hatch with the d16y8 engine. I am having what I think is some sort of fuel issue. It will start right up and idle fine when the engine is cold, but as soon as the temp starts coming up the idle kinda surges and when i drive it, it spits and sputters at low rpms like it isnt getting enough gas, or its getting too much. It doesnt have a tach so im not sure at what rpms it starts running smoother. But when it is up to temp and I shut it off, it wont start back up. Just cranks.. every once in a while, it will act like its trying but im yet to get it to start with the engine warm. I did some research on google and found it may be the main fuel relay so I bought one from autozone and tried it and it must have not been the problem.

Any info would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks in advance!!

 

Just a suggestion but Definitely please make sure that the ground point for your ECU (on board computer) is snug. This is located surprisingly on the thermostat housing, and is usually one or a pair of 10-mm head bolts which tie down a pair of large lugs. Torque spec is 8 ft-lbs - i.e. gentle. Please ensure to do this before you spend $ on parts. Good Luck !

 

Check for ECU codes. The 1993 has an OBD1 system which you check by putting in a jumper wire and watching the CEL blink (common on used cars to find the CEL burnt out or disconnected, it should light up for a 2 second bulb test when you turn key on but don't crank).

Also when it won't start, see if the ignition is still making sparks.

 

I checked the ground and its snug. Where can i check the codes. I have a code reader would that work? Not sure what plug i need though

 

I just dont understand why it will start right up when the engine is cold but wont start when the engine is up to temp. I could literally start it up and just let it idle and it will eventually die when the temp comes up.

 

Could an ECT sensor possibly be the issue

 

If you have a DMM I recommend checking all the sensors, particularly the MAP, with the engine on a cold start and running hot. Also check the igniter for thermal behavior as well as the coil. The ECU could also be a potential culprit and surplus outfits can provide a replacement at about $100. The fuel pressure regulator is another option, as is the PCV valve and the PCV hoses. If there is a fault code you should see the engine check light come on and by tripping the status connector under the glovebox you can read the codes and check online.

 

I got code number 22. 2 long flashes then 2 quick short ones

 

Im gonna start it up and let it run til it dies and wont start and see if anything else comes up

 

22 = Variable valve timing and control pressure switch;
Best Bet probably is to download the manual from an online source (google model/yr and manual) and run checks