If you're into puzzles try to solve this one.

Well the bottom line is the car wont start. Back story is the car is from New England and is rusted real bad also with 130k miles so bringing it to a shop to get it fixed seems pointless as it would prob be 1/2 the price of the car. I was going out on a Friday night and noticed oil was little low so I put some in and overfilled a little. Was going to do an oil change the following day but on the way home from work the car died like it ran outta gas. (I don't know if it was related by I included it in my story anyway)

First step I did after bringing it home was clean the injectors and buy a new fuel filter figuring it was just clogged. Plugged it all back in and instead of just turning over it was shuddering, but still no start. I checked main relay and fuel pump during start up and you can hear main relay click and fuel pump whirling. Checked spark and replaced spark plugs anyway.

I then did a compression test (because I have compression test kit but not fuel test) and found out compression was bad in cylinders 2 and 3. After much cursing and snapping 3 bolts (even with PB Buster), I took off the cylinder head and had the found the valves to be leaking bad. I had the valves replaced and the head machined by a shop. Purchased new gasket kit and timing belt and put it all back together. 150PSI across the board, a little low but not below minimum. (you think the story ends here but the plot thickens).

Cranked it over and same noise, shudders but wont start. Did I mess up the TDC or something? I went back and double checked the far right TDC mark on the crankshaft lined up with the arrows on timing cover and the TDC cam shaft is completely lined with head (with up arrow pointing up). Just for ***** and giggled I took it off and did it a second time. Same issue.

I went back to the drawing board. I starting checking random electrical components that others commented on saying it could be the reason for a no start. Checked for codes and got no codes. Did K-Test, Good ECU. Checked Map Sensor, Good. Checked CKP/TDC/and CYP in distrib, Good. Pulled main relay and checked, Good. Checked Coil, Good. Then....

I noticed the distrib cap and rotor were extremely dirty with build up... Could that have been the problem? A new $30 dollar cap and rotor? Well, sorry it wasnt, but replaced it anyway, because well... it was dirty.

Now I'm stumped again. This weekend I plan on testing fuel pressure because some guy at autozone mentioned that it could be fuel pump. Could fuel pump be bad even if you can hear it whirling during start? The other ideas of what I thought it could be is the crankshaft sensor. (which I have no idea how I'm gonna get to it as the plug is buried below the intake) Possibly the knock sensor throwing timing off slightly? Also the other question I have is the car should start even if I haven't adjusted the dizzy's advance, right? I cant set it up to a timing light if the cars not running so Im not sure, tried moving it around and it wasnt doing anything. I dont wanna keep cranking the car cause I don't wanna burn out starter or damage anything before I know whats wrong.

Suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks, Dave

 

Have you checked for spark at the plug wires? Bad coils can test "OK" with an ohmmeter. Also make sure the rotor is secure and points to wire #1 with engine set to TDC1. CKF and knock sensors will not prevent starting.