I have looked at several post on this web site ad all over the net about battery indicator lights. Nothing so far really pertains to my issue.

What's happening is my battery light comes on and go's off. Usually, as im hitting bumps on the road. Today as i was driving in Toronto, i hit a masive bump in the road and the light came on permanetly.

Now heres the thing. When it comes on, the cars stil runs. But if i turn the car off, then the car wont start. The battery connectors are clean and good and i have played with the cables to try and find a bad connection or something.

As I was doing all of that, the car was running since i was scared if i shut the car off, in case it wont start. Well my fear was right. Car would not start once turned off. This battery light problem has been going on for some time and its really aggravating.

So i went to my apt., got a meter, and went back down, when i got to my car i opened the door and the light came on inside. Witch it did not earlier once i turned the car off. So i then tried to start it, and the car started no prob. This was all withing 15 minutes. What the hell is causing this. The alternator is fine since the car has no trouble simply running on it.

When i disconnect the bat i can turn on all my light's (neon) blast my 1200W subs and the car runs fine. So i don't believe there is a shortage of power. And obviously that battery is charging since the car started fine for some reason after about 10 minutes. Just for the hell of it, i measured the batt and it was pushing over 13V when car not running, and when the car was going, it was in the lower to mid 15V.

I am confused and don't understand. The only reason or the light to be coming in my situation, is because the battery is not getting its power. But the car does from the alt.

I hope i provided enough info for some one to shed some light for me. It was dark outside and all i had was a video camera light for taking vids at night. What would would you recommend for me to do.

P.S., I forgot to say what car i have after i submitted the post. Its a 1997 Honda Civic, Ex, Sedan, Auto Trans.

Thanks in advance.

 

hmm, wheres mitch when you need him. my mom had a stationwagon that did that years and years ago, it ended up being the wires that connect on the batt. diddnt cost to much to replace, idk if thats the same in ur situation

 

When your car has no electricity at all sometimes, then without doing anything it will start up, it's usually bad connections at the battery, or where the ground wire from battery (-) connects to the frame or the engine/transmission. Next time it is dead, get your meter out and see where the voltage is being lost.

 

yeah i left it in my car so if it happens again im going to just pull over and start measuring everything. But the connections seem fine. Im wondering if there is a fuse that maybe needs replacing.

 

well, i may be wrong but you could consider removing your (+) (-) and let your battery sit for about 15-20mins and it should reset your ecu. see if the problem still occurs. if it does my other option is a new battery?

 

start your car and let it run, while its running pull the neg off the battery, the alt should run the car by itself,
the power wire that recharges your battery, goes from the alt, to the fuse box under the hood and screws in. and the other wire that screws in next to it is the battery positve wire, may wanna check those connections, and your alt connection, and your grounds, there should be a ground from battery to trans, and from battery to frame.

 

Its getting worse. What ive done to eliminate the battery was try one from another civic. The light still comes on with a different batt.

Now unlike yesterday when the light would turn off once the car would sit, the light stays on. Here's the thing the car starts no problem. I drove to and from work today which was 40 KM and the light was on the whole way.

To add to that, ive measured the Alt output and it seems fine and is charging the battery. Now why the hell is it on. What else could cause this. Another thing that started after hitting that hole, the trans was having issues shifting. This is a first since ive had it replaced.

I'm thinking maybe this could be something with the ECU, like a connection maybe. When i say trouble shifting, i mean that from say 0 to 30 km it goes from 1 to 2 and 2 to 1 for some reason. If i put the car in 2 and get up past 30 then put it in d3 or d4 its fine. Any thoughts.

 

One thing you haven't mentioned is: How old is your battery? Your earlier post said you measured low to mid 15V when the car is running. At that point your not reading your battery power but your alternator power. The alternator should put out from 13.5 to 15.2volts but no more than that. Average alternator reading is 14.5 volts. Some times when the voltage regulator starts going out it will increase the output. This overcharges the battery and kills it the same as not charging it enough. Also, inspect the battery. Pop the caps and check the level in the cells and if the sides are swollen it's a good indicator it's going bad. Depending on where you live many auto parts stores will check your battery, starter and alternator for free. Take them on on it.

 

yeah im going to be doing that this weekend but that does not explain the trans issue now...

 

Since you have a 1997 model, it could have the "fuse 15" problem. This is where the wires to the alternator on the back of the engine get frayed on the intake manifold bracket, causing loss of power to the alternator. Fuse #15 under the dash often blows because the wire is shorted out.

The wire to the battery light is also in that harness. If it were frayed and shorting to ground, the light will come on falsely. So I'd suggest getting under the car and checking that harness.

Remember that the alternator controls the battery light, it doesn't really mean much about the condition of the battery. Instead it is supposed to come on when there is a problem with the alternator and the battery is not being charged.

Is your speedometer working properly? The frayed harness can cut off the speed sensor, which the automatic needs to shift properly.