Hi All,

I'm trying to test my Alternator/VR, but I haven't found out how to bypass my VR to do that. Any other ideas would be appreciated.

Here's the specs:
1994 Honda Civic DX, just bought a refurbished (Mitsubishi)Alternator 4 months ago.

Here's the story:
I bought this car about 7 months ago, definitely a fixer-upper. My battery died about 4 months ago, (long story short) ended up replacing both Battery and Alternator myself. Last week I notice my headlights getting dim, my turn signal was straining to click before it just stopped, and then the radio went out. Luckily I had time to pull off to a safe spot and shut the car down. Tried to start it back up 2 minutes later and it wouldn't. Waited 15 minutes and it fires up, only to die in the same manner within 2 minutes.

I figured the alternator is not charging, but since I just bought it I hoped it would just be a problem in the wires/connection. Luckily I found some dirt/corrosion at the Alternators output terminal(B+). Decided to take the alternator off anyway and get it tested just to make sure after I clean up the connection. Terminal (threaded) snaps off as I'm removing the bolt!(FML) So I find a $5 replacement online and screw it on. I took it to Autozone today to test it and it FAILS. the B+ voltage was too high (16.13)(It couldn't be because of the new part I ordered could it? I mean it was DEFINITELY undercharging before, right?)

So now I'm looking at alternatives to replacing the alternator again. A VR isn't expensive and it sounds like that COULD be the issue. I haven't put the alternator back on my civic yet, I don't want to cause damage to the battery, but I will probably have to if I'm going to be testing it further.

Thanks in advance

 

did the alt come with a warranty? I always buy mine with the lifetime warranty. They'll swap it out now that it has tested bad at autozone.

 

Chain store rebuilds often don't last very long.

There is not a procedure to bypass the regulator. If you have battery voltage on the big wire all the time, and battery voltage on the "I" wire (yellow-black) with the key on, car wiring is OK. If it won't charge then, replace alternator.

Always disconnect the battery before commencing to R&R alternator, since the big wire is live all the time. If you short it to ground the main fuse in the underhood fuse box will blow.

 

I'm sure I didn't pay extra for warranty (regretting that now), but I'll check with them to see if I did or if it came with a warranty that would cover it (since I bought a new part for it).

Thanks for the help.

If anyone else has any bits of advice let me know. I'd really like to keep my hopes up about replacing/fixing the VR before I buy another alt, but I guess that's a sob story you've all heard before.

 

Lesson learned: Don't count on those free Alternator tests to be accurate all the time

I decided to put the Alt back on, but I needed to buy a new crimp connector for the B+ terminal (the old one was the original problem in the first place). Decided to get a 2nd opinion on the alternator while I was at it. Went to O'Reilley and it passed with flying colors! I knew now that one store had it wrong, I was hoping it was Autozone. Finished the install and the car started up and idled like a champ. Battery - engine off = 12.5V; engine on = 14.5V

Thanks for the input!