That's normal, they put that grease on there to keep water out.

 

Bumping an old post, but I have very similar problems. It's been a while since I tried fixing this, but it blows ...I think fuse 35 shortly after the condensor fan kicks on, sometimes it blows it almost imediately. I cannot easily obtain any relays where I am and will try putting a multi-meter to everything if I have to....will also spin the fan to make sure it spins freely, but in the spirit of shotgun maintinence, are there relays exactly like the condensor (and all other A/C components) fan relay for other systems that I can pull and swap out with the relays for the A/C system to see if that makes a difference? Also, I checked online at local stores for the relay according to make, model, etc and they don't have em. Are these just generic relays? Maybe just pull and match em in store?

I am thinking my problem is wiring anyway, but just in case a relay makes a difference, that will be a whole lot easier on me, because damn if I can figure out the mess of spaghetti noodles under the hood. Probably is wiring, but like the pro mechanics, I will do the simplest thing first, not the cheapest and charge the customer (me!) $$ for the parts and a full hour for a 5 minute job and if that doesn't fix it, on to the next easy to replace part till I have to skull sweat it.

 

You didn't say which model you had. I doubt it is a bad relay that typically won't blow the fuse. But there are usually some extra relays of the same type on the car you can swap out. If there is any non-stock wiring that is of course highly suspect.

After checking that the fan spins freely, next try disconnecting the compressor (it is on the same fuse), turn on A/C and see if the fuse holds. Disconnect the single wire that leads to the pulley end of the compressor; if your compressor has a switch with other smaller wires on the back (2001 or later model I think), leave it connected. The condenser fan should still run in this test, of course the air won't get cold because the compressor is off. The resistance of the compressor coil should be at least 3 ohms. If less, it is partly burned and shorted and will blow fuses.

 

My civics a 1996 DX coupe with M/T.

 

The circuit diagram for your Civic is shown below. Is 20A hood fuse 56 blowing?

 

These are all the same relay:

 

Just checked the fan, it spins freely. 6am here and can't really work on my car in my apartment complex. Will have to wait till 9am when my autohobby shop opens up to really check stuff. Printing up everything you two are linking, huge thanks! It is the #56 fuse, not the 35 like I said earlier....just assumed stuff....

I had this problem years ago when I lived in Florida. Didn't get it fixed, but a few months later I drove to California and tried to fix it again. I just moved wiring around and amazingly, my A/C worked fine on the drive to California. Then shipped the civic to Hawaii where a month later, it started popping the #56 fuse again. Moving wiring around didn't help anymore, but the weather is nice here mostly and you can smell the ocean...it's nice. So I didn't worry about it. Now I am moving to California.....and I think I'll be needing A/C. Putting a new fuse in will still get cold air blowing, but anywhere from a minute to 10 minutes after the a/c is turned on, the fuse will pop.

I will try to fumble my way through with the wiring diagram and a multimeter and I also printed up the fault isolation flow chart, but not sure those charts will really help with finding a short. Will move relays around just because it's so easy if I have the swap out parts. Anypoint in replacing the condensor fan relay? The old one spins smooth and freely. I am totally thinking a short...somewhere, but still hoping for a simple fix lol I dunno, maybe once I get started wire chasing won't seem as bad.

 

As mk said, unplugging A/C components on the fuse 56 circuit is the way to start. By the way, a bad compressor clutch coil is a common cause for this type of short.

 

If your car's wiring is in bad shape, it is feasible to replace the entire harness that starts at the underhood fuse box and wraps around the front of the car to the lights, compressor, condenser, etc. Take one off a junked car or you can mail-order a new one from Majestic Honda for about $75.

 

Thanks, the wiring doesn't look too bad. When I bought the car, I made sure it wasn't someone elses former "project". Been reading about the clutch coil, sounds easy enough to check and as RonJ said, can cause the problems I have. Even found via google someone complaining intermiten problems, then a long period where it worked and then back to popping fuse again and the coil fixxed it (fingers crossed).....if only I can find my multimeter. Will just go buy another in an hour or so and check the coil. Just need to disconnect the leads and check resistance right? Something like 3 to 4 ohms? Anyway to easily tell what compressor I have? I looked at it, no manufacturer lettering visable (didn't look underneath though) Hopefully it's a Sanden because that's the only one I can get a coil for locally.....and then I'll have to buy it as part of a clutch kit for $160. However, mail ordering the coil by itself is $80 and shipping to Hawaii is crazy. Reading up on removing the coil, but looks pretty straight forward.