(Sorry if this is a double post. I tried this hours ago, but I don't see my post.)

Vehicle: 1996 Civic DX automatic (completely stock)

I was under the car today and noticed that the left side outboard CV boot is split open and spewing grease over the back of the brake splash guard. Presently I don't hear any clicking noises when driving and/or turning. Correct me if I am wrong, but my understanding is that if the joint isn't damaged yet then I can choose to replace only the boot or the entire half-shaft.

Things I am considering, since I never done this procedure before . . .

Difficulty - I assume the whole drive shaft is easier to install than messing around with a boot and potentially requires fewer special tools. Is the lower cost of the boot worth the extra effort?

Cost - If I buy genuine Honda parts then the boot set is about $25 and the drive shaft assembly is about $150. After market drive shafts are about $40 to $50. Is there a recommended after market manufacturer or in this case is it important to go with Honda parts?

Thanks,
Scott

 

Replacing the boots would involve taking the axle out of the car anyway, so the job is considerably simplified to just swap to a rebuilt axle. The third-party ones are OK and cheap enough that it's really not worth messing with the boots.

 

Thanks for the advice, mk378. I noticed yesterday that my right side outboard CV boot is also split, although not throwing out grease yet, so I have two drive shafts to replace.

While reading on this topic I came across a couple of issues that I have questions on.

1. The factory service manual says to check the wheel alignment after installing the drive shaft. First, is that really necessary? Second, is there a preferred procedure for removing suspension parts and gaining access to the drive shaft that reduces the changes of getting one's car out of alignment and doesn't involve special tools mentioned in the FSM?

I ask, in part, because the factory service manual and various YouTube videos all have different approaches. One guy (for the left side) removed the lower flange bolt on the damper fork and the middle and inboard bolts and nuts on the lower arm. He didn't mess with the lower ball joint at all. I don't think that will work for the right side, though. In another video and the DIY at Honda-Tech, the guy removes the lower flange bolt on the damper fork, removes the castle nut on the lower ball joint, and whacks the lower arm with a hammer to release the ball joint instead of using a special ball joint remover.

2. One guy suggested that on older or high mileage cars it is good practice to replace the oil seals where the drive mates to the transmission. Do you agree? If so, I'm not clear on which seals to buy. Are these part numbers correct for my 1996 Civic DX with 4-sp automatic transmission (M4RA)?
91207-P0X-003 OIL SEAL (44X68X8) (NOK) - left side
91206-689-005 OIL SEAL (35X76X9) (NOK) - right side

Thanks,
Scott