woooot! Just found a TPS locally, should be picking that up this morning, YA!!!!

 

Got the new TPS, spent an hour or so swapping them, still surging.. I decided to just deal with it, take the car out for a spin to see how it did at higher speeds. It overheated, the damn cooling fan won't turn on. I tested the fan motor and it works just fine.

I'm basically left with two options, and need to decide which route to take before I leave work for the day. I'm either going to..

A - Find a new Coolant Temperature Sensor/Fan Switch, buy the socket or wrench big enough to install it, and try that.

Or

B - Hardwire my fan motor to a switch in the cabin. I actualyl kinda like this idea because I'll be able to run the fan whenever I want.


aaahhh, decisions decisions..

 

I posted this question earlier today in a different category, Forty 04 read my post. I have the same problem as most of you guys but mine does this surge around 1,500 - 2,000 rpms. It used to stop once it was warm but the last two days it does it all the time. And the weirdest thing is that if you put it in drive and just let the clutch out it stops, I dont even have to give itgas just as long as the car isengaged in agear it willstop surging. And there are no changes in performance or any other aspect of the car. Just at idle?

The car is a 95' Si D16z6 5spd.

 

Even if you havent made changes, run my checklist in the first post of this thread. If it continues we'll go from there

 

Well I checked for vac leaks and found a decent sized tear in a the hose that goes from the valve cover to the air intake elbow; replaced no change.

I also disconnected the TPS sensor as said before with engine running, surge went away but RPM's went up to about 2,800 almost 3,000 and stayed constant. Turned engine off connected TPS, restartedengine and the same surge was back.


Right now I just took off the IAC and Iam cleaning it, the screen and other port were really black and dirty.

But since the surge stopped when I disconnected the TPS and it just went to a constant 3,000 doesnt that mean my TPS is bad ?

 

I re-installed the cleaned IAC with new O-ring hooked all the hoses back up and the connector. Started up and had the surging problem again no change. Then with the motor running I removed the connector for the IAC and the surging slowed down and the RPMs dropped to like 900 surging to 1,100 from the previous surge of approx 1,500 - 2,000 RPM's.

When IAC is disconnected surging gets lower but does not stop.

When TPS is disconnected surging stops but it idles at 3,000 RPM.

Which one is bad ??

 

Probably neither, you've got the exact same symptoms as me.. I've yet to replace my IACV but I'm 99% sure thats not my problem.

Have you done ANYTHING to the coolant system lately?


Back to my issue. Tried bleeding my coolant yesterday, and found that the t-stat is not opening for whatever reason, and there is no coolant flowing through my motor. Pulled the upper radiator hose off, bone ****ing dry. So today I'm going to actually put coolant into the block, to see if when that heats up it'll open the t-stat. THEN, I can finally properly bleed the coolant system, and hope to god that this **** ends!

 

No I havent touched the system at all. I checked the coolant level yesterday to see if it was low. From the radiator cap its full, and the catch can is also full. You mentioned bleeding the system, Im not familiar with bleeding the system on this motor. Im used to working on small block V8's and I would just drain the motor and re-fill.

One thing I did notice was last night I drove the car around for a while and sat in traffic to see if it would go away after it warmed up more, after about 30 minutes the temp gauge would read about 1/4 away from the middle line and at that point the surging stopped. But it still idles very high around 1,200 rpm, its supposed to idle around 500 - 800 rpm.

It also seems like it takes abnormally long to heat up the last few days, but it has been just a little bit cooler the last few days in the mid 60's.

 

Yeah, not quite as easy on a Honda, but still straight forward. If you haven't made any changes to the coolant system I would assume that you wouldnt need to bleed it, but it can't hurt to try. I just posted a basic rundown of how to do it this morning, search for "coolant bleed"

 

Last night I purchased a 180* thermostat, rubber seal, up and lower hoses.Later today I will put those on and see how it affects the idle. One thing I know for sure is that my car takes a very long time to warm up and if its a cooler day (65*) and Im driving mostly on the highway it will stay very near the bottom. So my stat is probobly stuck open.

On another subject I saw in here somewhere that people were saying you couldnt buy a TPS separate from the TB. I can get them from workfrom $42 - $75