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idling very low at times, lights flickering !

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  #11  
Old 06-03-2011, 06:22 PM
aztecaa's Avatar
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All the lites inside and out are flickering! BUT...After resetting the ECU, I have not tested it at night yet to see if it has stopped flickering on the outside!
I was reading about that fuse 15 issue, what do u suggest I do first?
Do I still need to replace O2?
Also I noticed there are (2) O2 sensors, how do I check to see which one is bad?

Also it is burning very rich!

If I do need to replace, found one for $43 here...http://www.discounto2sensor.com/stor...universal:0%29
 

Last edited by aztecaa; 09-06-2011 at 12:50 PM.
  #12  
Old 06-04-2011, 03:25 AM
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I had the flickering lights in cabin/dash/ and exterior. happened at idle and during driving. It turned out to be the voltage regulator in my alternator, even though the alternator was pretty new and everything else worked fine. Just a possibility you might wanna try.
 
  #13  
Old 09-05-2011, 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by mk378
Do the headlights, all lights on the car flicker or just the dash lights?

The 1996 to 2000 models are prone to the fuse 15 problem. You get inconsistent voltage on the whole system because the alternator doesn't power up properly and also O2 sensor heater codes because the sensors don't get power.
Originally Posted by MaximusFunk
I had the flickering lights in cabin/dash/ and exterior. happened at idle and during driving. It turned out to be the voltage regulator in my alternator, even though the alternator was pretty new and everything else worked fine. Just a possibility you might wanna try.
Ok, I am starting to feel that what u mentioned is my problem! I put a voltage meter on the battery and it checks out around 14 volts when running!
So what do u guys recommend I do next. I already changed the O2Sensor top one and nothing changed.
Await an answer! All the lights inside and out are flickering most of the time hot or cold and the idle fluctuates once in awhile during this time unless I put it in Neutral.
 
  #14  
Old 09-05-2011, 07:31 PM
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Lightbulb ...maybe, maybe not

Hey you might wanna check connectivity to all grounds. Valve cover, tranny, and the ever so troublesome(for me anyway) thermostat housing/engine harnes grnd. May be dumb suggestion...my first time posting cut me some slack.
 
  #15  
Old 09-06-2011, 12:46 PM
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Ok, Started with the battery and cleaned the terminals...Not running 12.9 volts
Running 14.7-8 Volts.
Then I replaced wire with a new wire from the engine to the frame, checked the ground, good.
Only thing regarding the connections to everything else is to disconnect, check for any corrosion and then plug back in, which is what I did.
Do I need to remove the fuse 7.5 under hood to reset ECU or would it just go away on it's own.
Anyway when the battery was disconnected it was for over 5 mins and I still have the same problem. Flickering lites inside and out and the check engine lite code P0135 which states is the O2 Sensor.
So I guess the next thing is Alternator Relay replacement. How hard is it?
 

Last edited by aztecaa; 09-06-2011 at 12:49 PM.
  #16  
Old 08-18-2013, 09:16 AM
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Thumbs up Flickering Solved but NOT Check Engine Lite!

Hey Guys, I'm back and have an update!

I finally changed the Alternator which SOLVED:
1. Engine idle issue
2. Lights flickering throughout.

I still have not checked to see why the Check Engine light is on. I did remove the 7.5 fuse in the engine compartment and the light came back on immediately. So if anyone has any suggestions on what to try next, much appreciated. I haven't checked to see if the same code is showing but will check soon and get back to you.
Hope this helps anyone else out there! Oh, and a quick suggestion to anyone pressure washing their engines, cover the Alternator with plastic along with the distributor etc etc. Do not directly pressure wash on those areas. I believe when i used to pressure wash my engine i damaged my alternator or regulator.
 
  #17  
Old 08-18-2013, 09:26 AM
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P0135 is related to the primary O2 sensor, the first one after the engine. Check your O2 sensor heater. Engine cold, unplug the sensor and measure the resistance between the two wires on the sensor that are the same color (usually black, though sometimes white). Those are the heater and should be about 10 to 50 ohms. If it's open circuit, replace the sensor. If resistance is OK plug the sensor back in and turn the key on. You should have battery voltage (to ground) on one of the heater wires and something less than battery voltage on the other one. You are sure that fuse 15 under the dash is good, right?
 

Last edited by mk378; 08-18-2013 at 09:28 AM.
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