I need to replce the rear right wheel bearing on my 89 honda civic dx 2 door. Does anyone know how to replace it.Any help would be aprreciated.

 

Should be conventional conical (tapered roller) bearings. The system is the same as for the non-drive wheels on almost any car.

 

Does this bearing need to be pressed in and out on the hub? I havent taken it apart yet and just want to know before I have it in pieces.
Is there a nut in the middle that holds the hub on?

 

It's an all-in-one assembly - look it up on O'reilly Auto Parts website - there's even a picture. The bearings and seals are all self-contained. There's a single spindle nut that holds the assembly onto the spindle with a keyed flat-washer. To 'lock' the spindle nut in-place once proper torque has been reached, you 'dimple' the flange into the void of the spindle (you'll see).

Providing you have the right tools (my '95 required a 1 1/4" socket for the spindle nut, and the brake drums required some metric bolts to 'press off' the drum from the hub assembly), you can have it all done in about an hour.

Put the car on jack stands, set the E-brake, pull the rear wheel, pull the drum, use brake cleaner to wash the brake dust off and collect into an oil pan (or similar) and use a mask when doing this... don't breathe the dust. Pop off the little hub cap with a small flat-blade screwdriver. Use some PB Blaster (or other penetrating oil) on the spindle nut. While it's soaking in, 'undimple' the spindle nut. Remove the spindle nut and flat washer - inspect for damage... if none, reuse. Pull the old hub assembly off and clean the spindle, inspecting for damage.

Assembly is the opposite of disassembly. Torque the spindle nut appropriately. Re-dimple the flange on the nut - which should be in about the same place as it was before you took it all off. Use a rubber mallet to tap the little hub cap back on - I took the time to paint the cap and brake drum at this point before putting all back together. Before you reinstall the brake drum, inspect the shoes, springs, cylinder, and other parts for wear/damage. Also check the inside of the drum for thickness and any gouging... if it's all good, put it all back together. Slip on the wheel and you're done.

I just did the right rear on my '95 HV Hatch - and that's how it went. I don't think it'll be any different for you. Good luck and hope that helps.

 

Thank you much it does help. I think I can get it. I will let you guys know how it went.

 

Ok I changed the rear bearings. It was easy not that bad.. 1 1/4 socket, tappered castle nut and I was able to pull thewhole hub off..Headed down to car quest and purchased another one. 80 bucks not bad. The old one the bearings were shot out big time.

 

Good deal - glad it all worked out for you. Mine was about $80 as well at O'Reilly Auto Parts.

I don't I've seen anybody else use the term 'shot out' in about 10 years. Made me laugh - I use it all the time and people look at me like I'm weird or something.

 

I havea 90 civic dx hatch.. My right rear is also shot. What are the torque specs for the main nut holding the hub on, andones holding the drum assembly to thehub?

 

The big spindle nut sets the clearance in the bearings. It's not set to a torque. This comes with some experience but basically you tighten it fairly tight to set everything in place then loosen it until the hub turns freely but does not wobble. Then lock it down.

There are no bolts specifically holding the drum on, the lug nuts hold everything together.

You may need to put bolts temporarily in the threaded holes in the drum to force it off of the hub. Contrary to what Type RB said, you need the e-brake OFF to do this, or the brake shoes will be tight against the drum and it won't come off.