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Temp. gauge going up and down

  #11  
Old 01-31-2007, 11:04 PM
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 1
Default RE: Temp. gauge going up and down

how to change waterpump
 
  #12  
Old 08-23-2010, 07:04 PM
pat_m_matt@yahoo.com's Avatar
Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1
Default 99 civic dx overheating due to temp sensor and switch

So my 99 civic started overheating and the heater/air conditioner stopped working as well. I thought it was the thermostat but didn't have time to fix it. Took it to the shop and they ran diagnostics and said it was the thermostat, the temperature sensor, and the temperature sender/switch. They were going to charge me .5 hours of labor to change just the thermostat, so I took my car home. I paid for the diagnostic but I hear you can get the diagnostics done at some of the autoparts stores (Autozone, advanced autoparts...) I went online, ordered the parts for half the price of what the shop was going to charge me. I think that the air conditioner and heater both going out while the engine is overheating is indicative of a temperature sensor or sender/switch problem rather than a thermostat.

The thermostat was easy to change, just see the diagrams in any manual, it is three bolts and make sure you have the gasket for it. Shouldn't cost more than $20 in parts. Unfortunately, this was not the problem with my car as it still was overheating.

Next I changed the temperature sensor. The temperature sensor is directly below the distributer on the engine block. All you need is a deep socket (19mm) set to get to it. Be careful when detaching the wires as to not damage the clip or the wire. Once again my car was still overheating.

Lastly, I changed the temperature switch/sender. It is right next to the temperature sensor below the distributer with only a single wire going to it. It is changed the same way (deep socket 12mm), make sure you remember to put the O ring on the switch/sender before putting the new one in. After I got this changed I ran the engine and let out the air from the radiator (unscrewed cap carefully after it cooled some) then refilled it. My problems were solved.

Doing all of these should get your check engine light to turn off and correct the problem. If the engine light is still on but not overheating, unplug the battery for 15 minutes. That may reset it. If the original problem is not fixed from the diagnostics given, then the problem is most likely the wiring and I would take it into the shop to get fixed. I was going to be charged $94 in parts and $140 in labor. I ended up paying $54 for parts, $18 for a deep socket set, and $0 in labor.

Hope this helps. Sorry it is so long but I couldn't find any information on how to change the sensor and switch/sender.
 
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