Troubleshooting Common Problems
#1
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Main relay symptoms are:
Ignition switch symptoms are:
Bad ECU or ECU at fault:
Low compression:
if you guys come up with any other good ideas that i cant think of at this moment let me know
- Car won't start when hot outside
- Car won't start after parked for just a minute.
- Car starts but quickly dies as the rpm shoots to 1300 rpm. A second cranking attempt will crank but no signs of catching or any strong rpm movements.
- Once started the car won't stall. After the car runs for a couple minutes, the symptoms return after shutting off the engine.
- Windows have been rolled up on a hot day when problem occurred.
- The heater was on before turning the car off.
- Tapping your fingers or keys on the main relay will start the car.
- No (humming) sound from the fuel pump the moment the ignition switches ON.
- No click sound after the ignition key turns on or
- No click sound two seconds after the ignition turns on.
- Check engine light comes on (rare cases) or stays on longer than usual and no sparks (electronic timing only.)
- 10-15 of waiting and the car pushed to a shade, will usually start.
Ignition switch symptoms are:
- The dash will go dark when it dies (no warning lights, no shift indicator, no electrical).
- Car stalls then can be started, then stalls after driving or idling for a few seconds or minutes.
- Car runs fine when the key slightly held at start position or part way between start and ON position. In rare cases, this symptom is similar to a bad main relay.
- Ignition (electrical) switch is hot.
- The tachometer quits abruptly or jerks around before stalling.
- The car quits abruptly or jerks around before stalling.
- Engine cools down and starts, stalls under normal operating temperature.
- Oki igniter brand was installed.
- No spark at the coil.
- All dash warning lights shows up during stalling.
- No spark at the coil.
- Cranking shows no signs of sputtering.
- The RPM needle shows an immeasurable hint of life.
- Car won't start the next day and from then on.
- The distributor was abused before it died.
- The coil looks extremely dry, melted, flaking or cracking.
- All dash warning lights shows up during stalling.
- Turn the ignition switch on and no hum is heard for the first 2 seconds.
- Car stalls while idling or cruising above 1 mph. Sometimes car comes back to life.
- Spark is found and can smell gas.
- Engine will crank but with no signs of sputtering but may sputter on one or two cylinders.
- Once started, a plume of smoke is seen from the tailpipe and idles rough before settling into a smooth idle.
- After being able to start the car will restart just fine.
- Press the gas halfway or fully down to release fuel vapor and allow more air to balance the air/fuel ratio usually starts.
- Some late model cars have the ability to shut off the injectors for a number of seconds when starting at full throttle. This clears the combustion chamber. Check your owner's manual.
- Engine cranks but won't start when it rains.
- Signs of moisture on the ignition wire.
- Shutoff the car and come back a couple hours later will start.
- Will only click at the starter solenoid but won't crank (motor/starter won't spin.)
- Engine does not turn over or turns over very slowly then quits.
- Sometimes the dash will go dark or dim when attempting to start (no warning lights, no shift indicator, no electrical).
- Usually a single snap is heard from the battery post when attempting to start followed by no relay clicks, warning lights, no electrical.
- Usually a jump start form another car will start the car is an indication of a draining battery, bad alternator or battery. The voltage should be 14 - 14.4V at 2000-rpm.
- Won't start when cold outside or on a cold engine.
- Disconnecting the TW sensor usually starts.
Bad ECU or ECU at fault:
- No spark and check engine light is on and stays on.
Low compression:
- Won't start when stored for a month or so.
- Car just overheated and quits on its own.
- Compression reads low. (normally 100-180-psi should start)
- Pouring a cap of motor oil into the cylinder usually starts. (Don't attempt if not certain.)
- This is not categorized as intermittent.
if you guys come up with any other good ideas that i cant think of at this moment let me know
Last edited by trustdestruction; 02-21-2013 at 10:41 AM.
#2
you have a chart thing to trouble shoot rpm gauges? i got a 93 civic and when i start the car my rpm needle goes way up to like 8k and bounces then goes to 0 and dont move till i rev it and it'll just jump to like 3k and drop to 0 again really fast. can you help?
#3
you can fined answer [Right here on this forum! No need to go to outside links!]
(Don't post links like this. First, last, and only warning WCO).
(Don't post links like this. First, last, and only warning WCO).
Last edited by WellFedHobo; 01-09-2011 at 02:47 PM.
#4
light surge
i have a 97 honda civic the lights surge on it i have replaced the ecu and the iat any sugesstions?
#5
i have a 1994 civic dx just put a new starter on andstill wont start. i checked for voltage at the small cable on the starter when key is turned on and have none. Any suggestions where ui go from here.
#6
this isnt a thread to post your problems, if you have a problem make your own threads
#7
any body help about my honda d15b. my problem is the idle is getting drop to 200 or 300 when i turn on the head lights.
#8
#9
I have a 91 civic dx I changed the fuel filter and when I start the car it loses power when I put it in reverse or drive what do I need to do now.
#10
Why did you change your fuel filter? How are your spark plugs? worked on a 90's Chevy pick up about a month back in class that when you put it in gear the rpm would drop a lot. Replaced plugs wires ad fuel filter but didn't help. Found out the fuel pump was going out and didn't have enough flow.