Turned 16 and Honda Civic is on the A List
#11
11-09-2006, 09:07 PM
RE: Turned 16 and Honda Civic is on the A List
Ok, New QUEsTION.
In Your opinion/fact knowledge, what are the not's to do with a civic? and what is illegal in the state of the Beautiful Texas?...yes, im 2 lazy to go look for myself
In Your opinion/fact knowledge, what are the not's to do with a civic? and what is illegal in the state of the Beautiful Texas?...yes, im 2 lazy to go look for myself
#12
11-09-2006, 10:22 PM
RE: Turned 16 and Honda Civic is on the A List
I dont know whats illegal in Texas but I will tell you what not to do to a Civic. First dont put a aluminum spoiler on it, second put graphic on it, third snow plow body kit, dual exhaust and dont drift. Pretty much just dont make it look like a toy car you got out of a cereal box.
#13
11-09-2006, 10:48 PM
RE: Turned 16 and Honda Civic is on the A List
ORIGINAL: GetItBoy
sup man im 16 too. simply i jus wanna tell you that if you want real power from a civic, because a stock civic is extra slow.. its gonna take work. you can do the simple intake/headers/exaust setup. this is easy to do and youll get a little more power out of your civic. if you gain more knowledge you can try and turbo it. or upgrade to a better engine. if you decide to go turbo then its recommended you build the engine internals because with turbo your engine is gonna be working harder and needs to be able to handle it. and dont do the intake/header thing, i think because youll have to take them off if you turbo? and lots of people here dont like body kits and wings. mostly because they are pointless and a waste of money. personally i think the civic already looks good, no need for a big body kit and big wing maybe jus a lip kit and with nice rims, nice paint job, maybe some window tint itll look extra nice. but its your car. dont let anybody tell you what you to do because its YOURS! if you like it then its all good. youre the one driving it not them.
sup man im 16 too. simply i jus wanna tell you that if you want real power from a civic, because a stock civic is extra slow.. its gonna take work. you can do the simple intake/headers/exaust setup. this is easy to do and youll get a little more power out of your civic. if you gain more knowledge you can try and turbo it. or upgrade to a better engine. if you decide to go turbo then its recommended you build the engine internals because with turbo your engine is gonna be working harder and needs to be able to handle it. and dont do the intake/header thing, i think because youll have to take them off if you turbo? and lots of people here dont like body kits and wings. mostly because they are pointless and a waste of money. personally i think the civic already looks good, no need for a big body kit and big wing maybe jus a lip kit and with nice rims, nice paint job, maybe some window tint itll look extra nice. but its your car. dont let anybody tell you what you to do because its YOURS! if you like it then its all good. youre the one driving it not them.
Ok, we got this kid off to a good start. Hes got it in the small amount of time being here.
#15
11-10-2006, 07:00 PM
RE: Turned 16 and Honda Civic is on the A List
A civic was my first car too. But I urge you not to put a wing on your car. Its a waste of money. Put that money into something that will actually do your ride some good. Your car is no good if it looks fast but doesnt go fast. Start with intake and exhaust parts. Then once you learn more about your car, you can think about doing more stuff like a turbo. Good luck with your new car!
#16
11-10-2006, 08:21 PM
RE: Turned 16 and Honda Civic is on the A List
Here is a DIY for making a CAI (Cold air intake) system for your car. This will save you money but remember that all work cost something. Economy doesn't equal power and balance is key to overall success. Please note that I am posting this off what I did to my 1993 civic del sol and my 95 Civic ex coupe. I do not claim responcibility for the actions of others and am simply trying to help. REMEMBER THAT THIS PUTS YOUR INTAKE IN THE WHEEL WELL, THUS HYDRO-LOCK IS POSSIBLE DURING RAIN.
(I included pictures but if they do not showplease email me at Keiji03@hotmail.com and I will send them Via email to help you out.)
There are a few problems with the AEM system, as nothing is perfect. The first is that it’s made of aluminum. Aluminum is lightweight, but is also an excellent conductor of heat. Thermoplastic and silicone would be better, like the Iceman and PRM systems, but steel works as well as aluminum (better in cact) with only a small weight increase over aluminum, plastic, or silicone. The AEM systems are ceramic coated, which helps block heat, but they only ceramic coat the OUTSIDE. Another problem is price – the retail price of an AEM system is $250.
I have found a way to make an AEM-style intake, for 1/4th of the cost. I have not dyno tuned this new intake, but in swapping out my old AEM intake for my version, I can tell you that I have not noticed any power loss whatsoever. In fact, the new system feels stronger than the AEM system did. I will explain the reasons why I think my system makes slightly more power than the AEM system later in the article.
Here’s what you’ll need:
180 degree mandrel-bent piece of steel tubing – see notes below
(4) rubber PVC pipe clamps – see notes below
K&N "Funnel Ram" Filter – see notes below
(1) can of Plasti-Coat ceramic high-temp engine spray paint – see notes below
3/8" ID rubber grommet, 3/8" OD piece of plastic tube (about 4" of tube), 5/8" OD (3/8" ID) piece of vinyl hose (about 12" of hose) – see notes below
Flathead screwdriver
Hacksaw or air cutting wheel
Electric drill with 3/8" drill bit.
Metal file and sandpaper
The toal cost of the project is about $60 - $70 depending on shipping prices, the brand of filter you buy, etc.
NOTES:
- First, the tubing. Believe it or not, the tubing is a piece of mandrel-bent tubing from J.C. Whitney! It’s a "180 degree u-bend". I paid $17.98 for mine. Call (312) 431-6102 and order part number 81EH3035N. This single piece of pipe will be used to make the entire CAI system! (The piping is slightly heavier than the aluminum AEM system, but we are only talking about a pound or so and the power gains and price savings from this system more than outweigh the pound you will gain with the steel piping!)
- The rubber pipe clamps can be purchased at any Lowe’s Home Improvement Store. They are made of durable, flexible, high-temp black rubber, and already have (2) stainless steel clamps integrated into the clamp. Go to the PVC plumbing section, and look for "PVC Pipe Clamps". The ones you need are for 2" PVC pipe. The clamps cost $4 each, and you will need (4) of them.
- On the filter, you can order K&N filters from just about anywhere. The price varies from $20 - $50 dollars. I paid $30 for mine from MMRusa.com It’s a 6" filter with a 3" opening and includes a built-in funnel-ram velocity stack. Other good choices are RS Akimoto filters with both an internal aluminum and built-in velocity stack. You can also order an AEM replacement filter direct from AEM (or any AEM dealer). I do not know the exact price, but it shouldn’t be more than $40. The AEM filter will provide the best fit, since they are basically the only company that uses the smaller 2.5" diameter piping instead of the more common 3" piping. With the 3" filters, you will have to use one of the pipe clamps as a step-up adapter, where the AEM filter would bolt right on and fit perfectly.
- As far as the ceramic paint, go to any Auto Zone or Wal-Mart store, and buy "Dupli-Color" brand high-temp engine paint. I would recommend using this brand of paint because it does NOT require the use of primer. This paint is also good stuff because it is actually ceramic-based, which greatly helps block heat. The paint runs about $3 a can and you will need (1) cans. I used "Aluminum" color because it matches the AEM color perfectly. You can use any color you want though.
- The grommet and hoses will be used to make the crankcase vent system. You can buy the parts at Lowe’s when you are buying the PCV pipe clamps. I got the hoses in the
plumbing section, and the grommet in the hardware section. The plastic hose is a milky white and is hard plastic. You only need about 3" of it, but you have to buy it by the foot. The vinyl tubing is clear, although any color will work. You will need about 1 foot of tubing (12").
That’s the end of the notes. Let’s move on to the install.
For shortness sake, I will assume that you have already removed the bumper and all of the stock airbox components - the upper and lower resonators, the "airbox" located in the bumper, and also the upper rubber hose that goes to the throttle body.
Now, take your muffler pipe and clean it up using soap and water. Mine was covered in grease used for lubrication during the mandrel-bending process. Once it is cleaned off, make sure it’s dry. The first step is to cut the pipe. The top bend is the easiest to do first (i.e. the one that connects to the throttle body).
You can see from the following picture that the angle matches the stock intake angle perfectly. You can use the stock upper piece as a rough guide for making the cut.
I laid the pipe up against the throttle body, and eyeballed the proper angle that the pipe needed to be cut at. Sorry, I don’t have an exact degree for you, but the object is to line up the straight part of the pipe with the hole that goes from the engine bay down into the bumper (where you removed the resonator pieces from).
You’re going to have to use your imagination and a little creativity here, but it’s not hard. See the following picture:
Use a hacksaw or cutting disc to make the cut (make sure it’s straight!!). When finished cutting, clean up any rough or sharp edges with the metal file and sandpaper.
Now double-check everything by installing the first rubber pipe fitting onto the throttle body. It’s a VERY tight fit, so it will help to lubricate the fitting using a rubber friendly lubricant like silicone grease or even a little bar soap (wet your fingertip and rub a bar of soap). You will have to wrestle it on, but it does fit, as in the following picture:
Once you have the fitting on, insert the pipe and clamp it down. Make sure the straight part of the pipe goes perfectly towards the opening to the bumper where the resonator was. One thing to note here. Those worried about hydrolock and water, can convert their CAI into a "dry" system by simply bolting the filter onto this short piece of pipe. This is useful during rainy or winter months. See the picture below:
Once you are satisfied with the first piece, it’s time to complete the rest of the system. Once again, imagination and creativity come into play here as I cannot tell you the exact cuts to make. I had to redo a few of the cuts to get everything to line up. Remember to clean up all of the edges with the metal file and sandpaper so you don’t cut yourself and/or damage the rubber pipe fittings.
Use the following pictures as a guide on where to make the rest of the cuts:
As you make each cut, keep assembling and test fitting the entire intake system. Attach the second pipe to the first pipe still attached to the throttle body, and make sure the second pipe curves down into the bumper hole. Then attach the third pipe to the second pipe and make sure it makes a curve in t
(I included pictures but if they do not showplease email me at Keiji03@hotmail.com and I will send them Via email to help you out.)
There are a few problems with the AEM system, as nothing is perfect. The first is that it’s made of aluminum. Aluminum is lightweight, but is also an excellent conductor of heat. Thermoplastic and silicone would be better, like the Iceman and PRM systems, but steel works as well as aluminum (better in cact) with only a small weight increase over aluminum, plastic, or silicone. The AEM systems are ceramic coated, which helps block heat, but they only ceramic coat the OUTSIDE. Another problem is price – the retail price of an AEM system is $250.
I have found a way to make an AEM-style intake, for 1/4th of the cost. I have not dyno tuned this new intake, but in swapping out my old AEM intake for my version, I can tell you that I have not noticed any power loss whatsoever. In fact, the new system feels stronger than the AEM system did. I will explain the reasons why I think my system makes slightly more power than the AEM system later in the article.
Here’s what you’ll need:
180 degree mandrel-bent piece of steel tubing – see notes below
(4) rubber PVC pipe clamps – see notes below
K&N "Funnel Ram" Filter – see notes below
(1) can of Plasti-Coat ceramic high-temp engine spray paint – see notes below
3/8" ID rubber grommet, 3/8" OD piece of plastic tube (about 4" of tube), 5/8" OD (3/8" ID) piece of vinyl hose (about 12" of hose) – see notes below
Flathead screwdriver
Hacksaw or air cutting wheel
Electric drill with 3/8" drill bit.
Metal file and sandpaper
The toal cost of the project is about $60 - $70 depending on shipping prices, the brand of filter you buy, etc.
NOTES:
- First, the tubing. Believe it or not, the tubing is a piece of mandrel-bent tubing from J.C. Whitney! It’s a "180 degree u-bend". I paid $17.98 for mine. Call (312) 431-6102 and order part number 81EH3035N. This single piece of pipe will be used to make the entire CAI system! (The piping is slightly heavier than the aluminum AEM system, but we are only talking about a pound or so and the power gains and price savings from this system more than outweigh the pound you will gain with the steel piping!)
- The rubber pipe clamps can be purchased at any Lowe’s Home Improvement Store. They are made of durable, flexible, high-temp black rubber, and already have (2) stainless steel clamps integrated into the clamp. Go to the PVC plumbing section, and look for "PVC Pipe Clamps". The ones you need are for 2" PVC pipe. The clamps cost $4 each, and you will need (4) of them.
- On the filter, you can order K&N filters from just about anywhere. The price varies from $20 - $50 dollars. I paid $30 for mine from MMRusa.com It’s a 6" filter with a 3" opening and includes a built-in funnel-ram velocity stack. Other good choices are RS Akimoto filters with both an internal aluminum and built-in velocity stack. You can also order an AEM replacement filter direct from AEM (or any AEM dealer). I do not know the exact price, but it shouldn’t be more than $40. The AEM filter will provide the best fit, since they are basically the only company that uses the smaller 2.5" diameter piping instead of the more common 3" piping. With the 3" filters, you will have to use one of the pipe clamps as a step-up adapter, where the AEM filter would bolt right on and fit perfectly.
- As far as the ceramic paint, go to any Auto Zone or Wal-Mart store, and buy "Dupli-Color" brand high-temp engine paint. I would recommend using this brand of paint because it does NOT require the use of primer. This paint is also good stuff because it is actually ceramic-based, which greatly helps block heat. The paint runs about $3 a can and you will need (1) cans. I used "Aluminum" color because it matches the AEM color perfectly. You can use any color you want though.
- The grommet and hoses will be used to make the crankcase vent system. You can buy the parts at Lowe’s when you are buying the PCV pipe clamps. I got the hoses in the
plumbing section, and the grommet in the hardware section. The plastic hose is a milky white and is hard plastic. You only need about 3" of it, but you have to buy it by the foot. The vinyl tubing is clear, although any color will work. You will need about 1 foot of tubing (12").
That’s the end of the notes. Let’s move on to the install.
For shortness sake, I will assume that you have already removed the bumper and all of the stock airbox components - the upper and lower resonators, the "airbox" located in the bumper, and also the upper rubber hose that goes to the throttle body.
Now, take your muffler pipe and clean it up using soap and water. Mine was covered in grease used for lubrication during the mandrel-bending process. Once it is cleaned off, make sure it’s dry. The first step is to cut the pipe. The top bend is the easiest to do first (i.e. the one that connects to the throttle body).
You can see from the following picture that the angle matches the stock intake angle perfectly. You can use the stock upper piece as a rough guide for making the cut.
I laid the pipe up against the throttle body, and eyeballed the proper angle that the pipe needed to be cut at. Sorry, I don’t have an exact degree for you, but the object is to line up the straight part of the pipe with the hole that goes from the engine bay down into the bumper (where you removed the resonator pieces from).
You’re going to have to use your imagination and a little creativity here, but it’s not hard. See the following picture:
Use a hacksaw or cutting disc to make the cut (make sure it’s straight!!). When finished cutting, clean up any rough or sharp edges with the metal file and sandpaper.
Now double-check everything by installing the first rubber pipe fitting onto the throttle body. It’s a VERY tight fit, so it will help to lubricate the fitting using a rubber friendly lubricant like silicone grease or even a little bar soap (wet your fingertip and rub a bar of soap). You will have to wrestle it on, but it does fit, as in the following picture:
Once you have the fitting on, insert the pipe and clamp it down. Make sure the straight part of the pipe goes perfectly towards the opening to the bumper where the resonator was. One thing to note here. Those worried about hydrolock and water, can convert their CAI into a "dry" system by simply bolting the filter onto this short piece of pipe. This is useful during rainy or winter months. See the picture below:
Once you are satisfied with the first piece, it’s time to complete the rest of the system. Once again, imagination and creativity come into play here as I cannot tell you the exact cuts to make. I had to redo a few of the cuts to get everything to line up. Remember to clean up all of the edges with the metal file and sandpaper so you don’t cut yourself and/or damage the rubber pipe fittings.
Use the following pictures as a guide on where to make the rest of the cuts:
As you make each cut, keep assembling and test fitting the entire intake system. Attach the second pipe to the first pipe still attached to the throttle body, and make sure the second pipe curves down into the bumper hole. Then attach the third pipe to the second pipe and make sure it makes a curve in t
#18
11-12-2006, 10:06 PM
RE: Turned 16 and Honda Civic is on the A List
Alright all you great people, heres and update of the car im getting..... 1993 ex 2 door coupe with a 1.6l v-tech engine (D16Zd6) and its greyish color with a sunroof and all the extras....let me know what you think and what you think i should do..i dont think im gonna put a turbo in for sometime now...btw how much do yall think it would cost to turn an automatic into a manual?
