1. Why would you want to do this?

Bling Factor. If you want to install a rear sway bar and the factory LCAs do not have endlink holes. If you are worried that bolts are seized when installing replacements struts/springs and you do not want any down time.

2. How long does this take?

~1 hour, taking your time.

3. Precautions?

Always use jackstands. Be sure to pre-load suspension prior to tightening all bolts. Hatchback models may need to have the axle back portion of the exhaust removed for room on the passenger side.

4. What's needed?

Jack
Jack stands
New LCAs
14mm socket
19mm socket
Torque wrench
Replacement LCA bolts (in case if OEM's seize)
Impact Gun (not needed, but makes removing bolts easier
Anti-seize compound

Step 1 - Removing OEM Rear LCA

This is a pretty simple process altogether, so I have one picture. Raise back end of vehicle, support using jack stands. Remove rear wheels.

Remove the three (3) 14mm head bolts holding rear LCA to the trailing arm, strut, and subframe.



^^Aftermarket LCA shown in picture.

Pull LCA out of vehicle. Repeat for other side.

Now, if this is the first time you are removing the bolts, they may seize up and snap. If this happens, you need to cut the bolt out, or heat the back end of the bolt up to a glowing red color, and then turn the bolt out with a big wrench. Not fun, but has to be done.

Step 2 - Installing replacement rear LCAs

In order to have the poly bushings slide into their respective areas, I greased the polyurethane with silicone lube (This comes with Energy Suspension bushings etc). You may be able to see this if you look hard enough at the picture above.

Apply anti-seize to LCA bolts. Slide bolts through their respective holes. For EKs, all the bolts are the same size, so they can be switched around with no problems. For EGs, the strut bolt is 4mm longer (total 84mm) than the other two.

If you are having problems lining up the holes, you can place a jack under the control arm in order to "push" it into place. You could also stick a screwdriver in the holes to move the LCA to where you need it.

Make the bolts semi-snug, do not tighten yet. Repeat for other side.

Step 3 - Pre-loading the suspension system

When the car is up in the air, the LCAs will hang due to the suspension expanding or whatever. Once the car is back on the ground, the LCA will sit more straight. If this is not done, expect to see premature wear on the bushings. Sorry for the horrible explanation.

I have seen two ways of doing this.

1. Place a jack under the trailing arm and raise the control arms to about where it would be as if the car was sitting on a level surface.

2. Re-install wheels, lower vehicle, and crawl under the car. Not the best idea, especially if the car is lowered.

I have always done option #1. Anyways, once the LCAs are where they should be, go ahead and tighten the bolts to spec. (40 ft lbs.) Be sure to do this for both sides.

Step 3 - Caring for your LCAs

As with all modifications, I always suggest to complete a check up on the condition of the bushings, and check of the bolts are still tight. Everything should be good, I have never had a problem, but I have always checked. I would look everything over about a week after the initial install and, then every 2-3 months after that.