Hey guys i recently changed the front right brake hose (that was on thursday). Today (saturday) i bled the brakes (all 4) because on thrusday i only had enough time to bleed the front 2 brakes. Anyway i finished bleeding the brakes, i went to take a test drive. I braked really hard at every stop sign and the brakes really weren't catching too good. After 2 times around the block they started to catch so i decided to go back home. I get home and i was walking around the car and i saw that the front right wheel had smoke coming from it. This is the same wheel with the new brake hose and the wheel also has a broke CV boot. Can some1 tell me if this is normal or if something is wrong? I was breaking really hard, pedal to the floor each time.
ORIGINAL: AgentofDarkness
the front right wheel had smoke coming from it. Can some1 tell me if this is normal or if something is wrong?
Smoke coming from around the wheel is never a good thing. First off, braking hard like that can warp your rotors from the heat build-up. Secondly, the smoke could be from either very hot rotors or brake fluid or oil on those hot rotors.
I do know one thing, slamming your brakes on is not going to help anything. Once you get them bleed, slowly pump your pedal back up sitting still. You don't need to go out and slam your brakes on. Just wondering, what method were you using to bleeding the brakes?
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CLUELESSNESS! There are no stupid questions, but there are a lot of Inquisitive idiots!
Open bleeder screw, have some1 pump the pedal, close bleeder screw. Stop bleeding a wheel when the fluid comes out with no bubbles and with clean fluid. The pedal is kinda low and its not firm (compared to my mom's accord) The pedal goes to the same spot, and as i said the brakes have been bled. There aren't any leaks (that i can see).
Bleed the MC, than rebleed the brakes...air in the MC would cause a low pedal...worth a try
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Prolly not a worn pads b/c one of the kids in my Auto class took out the pads for a demo so im positive that both sides have good pads. The pedal is low and not firm at all. I've never bench bled a M.C. before so how hard is it?
ORIGINAL: AgentofDarkness
Open bleeder screw, have some1 pump the pedal, close bleeder screw.
Make sure the bleeder is closed before the brake pedal is allowed to come up.
In other words, press the brake pedal down, open the bleeder, when the pedal is down as far as it'll go, close the bleeder, let the pedal come up. Continue this until clean fluid with no bubbles comes out, then move on to the next wheel.
Prolly not a worn pads b/c one of the kids in my Auto class took out the pads for a demo so im positive that both sides have good pads. The pedal is low and not firm at all. I've never bench bled a M.C. before so how hard is it?
Not hard at all...just time consuming...you'll probably be better off if you get an MC bleed kit from an auto store. Put the MC in a wise, route the bleed kit into the MC, fill it with brake fluid, pump the MC one in 15 seconds using a screwdriver until no bubbles are coming out. It will take around 20-30 minutes if its our first time
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the smoke is from the fluid you got on the rotors during the switch. hose it down really well with brake cleaner. any oil residue will make your brakes dangerously unstable and ineffective. you have to use brake cleaner, nothing else. its specially made to dry p with no residue.
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Yes, there's a "Replacement for Displacement". Its called Volumetric Efficiency.
Front Brakes
