hey all i have a question theres all this talk about the b18 and b16 everyone is puting in there cars what about the b20 from the crv has anyone done this and maybe took its brakes off or his it hard like dropping in a h22 please let me read some feed back on this thanks
b20= torque monster. its a blast to drive around town, not too spectacular at the track, it just cant run through the high revs enough to keep the car moving fast. a friend with a crx/b20 ran mid 15s all night, he would have done better, but the idiots who put it in used a b16 tranny. the gears were way too short. but its a fairly inexpensive motor, so unless you plan on going crazy with it, it'd be a great motor to start with. just be sure to get the LS trans. and dont be tempted by the frankenstein crap (vtec head on b20/b18a/b) they just dont hold up without a full build on the block. the H22 messes up the weight distibution of a civic badly, if its a street or circuit car, dont bother.
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Yes, there's a "Replacement for Displacement". Its called Volumetric Efficiency.
b20= torque monster. its a blast to drive around town, not too spectacular at the track, it just cant run through the high revs enough to keep the car moving fast. a friend with a crx/b20 ran mid 15s all night, he would have done better, but the idiots who put it in used a b16 tranny. the gears were way too short. but its a fairly inexpensive motor, so unless you plan on going crazy with it, it'd be a great motor to start with. just be sure to get the LS trans. and dont be tempted by the frankenstein crap (vtec head on b20/b18a/b) they just dont hold up without a full build on the block. the H22 messes up the weight distibution of a civic badly, if its a street or circuit car, dont bother.
I have to dis-agree about the H22,it puts like 80 more lbs on the front of the car than B18 swap and the handling problem can be avoided with a lil stiffer springs in the front maybe some coil-overs.
The B20 is a ok swap but dont plan on getting to much power from it as you are limited to to crap for aftermarket support as far as internals go and with the sleeves being as thin as they are boost is a big no no with it
a H22 in a civic with nothing more than bolt-ons and a good driver will put a hatch in the low 13's,coupe in the mid to high 13's,and a seden in the low 14's and this is with just bolt-ons..........IMHO it's worth it cause you can have it in your car for the same price as a B18C swap and compared to the H22 the B18 is a tq'less pig
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[b]If you are over 18 years old in the United States and do not vote do not bitch about local, state, and national laws. This includes fix it tickets, big speeding fines, and high taxes(gas prices included)[b]
Three is actually a significant (much more than 80 lbs when you account for the drivetrain parts) weight difference, which does affect the balance of the car and throws a lot of understeer into the mix. Not to mention the fact that you have to modify the crossmembers and frame just to fit it in there. And as for your claim about a B18C vs an H22, I can tell you from experience that a 5G-B18C5 swap (or a 4G-C1/5 swap) will run circles around a 5G-H22.
I have rode in a H22 Hatch and a H22 coupe and they rode fine,never noticed it being off balance and the cars were both alot quicker than B18 swaped civics i have got to ride in.IMHO it's no different than a B20 in a CRX.Hell you put a box with a nice single 12 inch sub in the back of the car and it will balance the weight back out
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[b]If you are over 18 years old in the United States and do not vote do not bitch about local, state, and national laws. This includes fix it tickets, big speeding fines, and high taxes(gas prices included)[b]
You won't notice the understeer until you actually DRIVE the car. You can't tell how a car drives from the passenger seat. I have done both swaps personally, and I know how much shoehorn-ing is involved with the H22 swap.
and the way the h sits in a civic, it is leaned forward and is in FRONT of the front tires, so the 80 lbs has more leverage. that makes it drive like its way more than 80 pounds heavier in the front. and again, if its a drag only car, go for it, but if there is to be any kind of handling to be done, stick with a B or D. also, a stock H22 cant handle a lot of boost either. even with forged internals, you cant run too much. unless its sleeved, its too weak for huge amounts of boost. and there are plenty of people making stuff for B20s. not as many as the other honda motors, but more than a lot of cars.
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Yes, there's a "Replacement for Displacement". Its called Volumetric Efficiency.
hmm, im getting interested in this b20 you mentioned. Its the 2.0 out of the CR-V correct?
I guess a couple other questions I might be able to search for, but maybe you know offhand
1. Do the heads match up to any of the more 'popular' engines, IE would a superchargre/exhaust header for an integra fit the head?
2. Is the block just a bored/stroked b18? woudl engine mounts and placement be the same?
3. What is the suggested stock redline on this motor?
Hondas infinite number of motor and motor codes again gets the best of me
The B20 block is actually taller than the B18 block, so it will be different. However, I think the engine mounts are similarly located (though maybe not exact), since it's still a B-series. And I'm pretty sure the redline is set to 6200.
why not
