which bolts? The ones to the engine of the ones to the cat?
With the engine there really isnt a lot you can do besides wd-40 A LOT, and have a lot of patience, but if you are having problems with the bolts connecting it to the cat you can just grind/torch those off and get new ones. That is what I had to do with my catback/cat bolts.
Ah I see, the ones on the stock header cover are rusted as well as the header-cat ones. Im putting lots of wd40 on em in hopes. And hey does that stock cover need to go back on???
Either WD40 them to death or get some penetrating oil or, no joke, "Nut Buster." It's like WD40 on crack.
Depending on where the bolts are, you can take a 1lb sledge, after you've let them soak in WD40, and give the bolts a solid, square, medium strength smack and that should shock some of the rust loose. Then, take a really long ratchet (more length=more torque) and SLOWLY start to twist the bolts off. If you snap one, you're TOTALLY FUXED and you'll have to get that bad boy drilled out and rethreaded.
Get your engine alittle warmed up to help with loosening the rusted bolts and then try this stuff that i love called PB Blaster, i think advanced sells it, i have yet to have pb blaster fail on me
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like he said:
PB Blaster, not WD-40
apply it several times a day for a week, while the car is hot
when yo go to remove it:
let the car run for a WHILE to heat it up
use a 6 point socket, not a 12 point one
get a reeeaally long breaker bar
if you replace your stock manifold with an aftermarket one, you won't be able to reattach the heat shield, because the mounting points are on the manifold itself.
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^Shes hit the nail directly on the head. I only have one thing to add. Use caution, and make damn sure that your socket is PERFECTLY square with the nut. Mine was a little crooked when I removed my stock mani, and I ended up stripping one of the nuts on the outside, it was NOT fun.
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like he said:
PB Blaster, not WD-40
apply it several times a day for a week, while the car is hot
Uhmmm....May want to spray it on before the manifold gets hot..PB is most likely a flamable product.
You could also add a small amount of anti-seize on the exposed threads before you start backing the nuts off.....that way it won't bind up on the residual junk on the way off.
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you do realize the body roll on your car is like you're auto-xing a conversion van?