Well I finaly started my trek into boosted D series territory. Thursday I bought an engine and picked it up today. Its a D16Z6, the same as i have now, but i wanted it to be a simple build and i wanted to rock the D. I came out of a 95 civic like mine, 166K miles, hooked up to an auto. Heres a pick of it after i had been striping it down for a while. my friend should be over tomorrow, hes letting me borrow his stand and hoist.
The Build is going to be as follows
Vitara pistons
eagle rods
ARP headstuds
new oem bearings
Cast turbo mani
crome
DSM 440's
walbro 190l fuel pump
T3/T04e .63 a/r 57 trim
2.5" down pipe and 3" exaust
2.5" charge piping
intercooler
TurboXS Type H - RFL
Turbonetics deltagate
theres other stuff, but im too lazy to list it all, this project is going to be a bit drawn out, but im looking to finish by august or so.
Anyone have any recomendations on how to get the crank bolt out, i sprayed it with liquid wrench, went at it with the impact wrench as well as the breaker bar and hammer, now its just soaking in over night.
Haha, best of luck man. If you have any questions lemme know.
yah, i had always wanted to do this, and was doing some research, when you started yours, it was what actually made me want to do it. it is almost the same exaxt setup, but im going a lil bit cheeper, and i want to keep my ac, so no ramhorn, and im keeping the stock cam for now
Forty04
01-30-2007, 07:56 AM
sounds pretty good man, My only question is why you'd choose to run 3" IC piping? Kinda overkill for the app IMO.
As for injectors, it kinda depends on what your horsepower goals are. I'd say at a low boost level (8-10) that 450's should suffice.
ProjectGSR
01-30-2007, 10:22 AM
Very cool man, I like the D builds.
mill$civic
01-30-2007, 11:45 AM
Keep us posted!
cpl rampage
01-30-2007, 11:48 AM
yah, 3 inches is prolly overkill, 2.5 would be fine, and a 2.5 inch intercooler is cheeper too. as for HP goals, im looking for 250+, and yah i know it needs a bath, im striping it right now, and then ill have the block boiled, just so its clean inside and out.
Remmy
01-30-2007, 03:22 PM
To get the crank bolt out you need to get this hard to find substance that you cant get out of any store nor import it at all.
Its called: Elbow Grease
cpl rampage
01-30-2007, 04:36 PM
lol, deffinatly using elbo grease, its just tuff cause its sitting on the floor ands i cant brace it very well, i got some pb blaster on there, letting it sit, and went at it with the breaker bar and a ten foot pole, but like i said i cant brace it anywhere, ive got to go to work today, but ive got tommorrow off from school, so maby ill wedge it under somthing and try again, oh and i took off the head today, and the cylenders look great, amost no scoring, only one or 2 lil virticle scratches total, and, i can still actually see the hone marks, this thing has been babyed
Remmy
01-30-2007, 04:47 PM
If you stick it on a motor mount thingy to hold it in place you should have to much of a problem.
Kedawei
01-30-2007, 06:00 PM
Try DSM 450 injectors. They are teh cheap.
Alsoget a zex or similar cam if you can afford it. It's cheap for the gains. I'm hoping to grab an Akmee cam next winter when they re-run their holiday special (funds/progress pending).
Get a new timing belt also.
cpl rampage
01-30-2007, 07:48 PM
yah, i my friend is leting me borrow his engine stand, but we havent had the time to get together and get it out of his garage
as for the cam, ill definatly look into it, and of course im getting a new timing belt, and all the seals and gaskets are gonna be replaced
Kedawei
01-30-2007, 09:58 PM
Just mentioning it in case you had forgotten (it's not in your list).
cpl rampage
01-30-2007, 10:07 PM
deffinatly a good thing, i would rather be reminded a hundred times, then run in to problems down the road
i was also talking to my friend at work, and he works for a company that builds and repairs fire engines, once i get it down to the block, hes gonna take it for me, steam blast it, and then an acid wash it
t34me
01-30-2007, 10:31 PM
Sounds like a good build, can i recommend agreddy type-s BOV, i love mine, it does the sputtering blow off, not just one big WOOOSH, more the: TSSS....TSssss. tsssss....whatever, just trying to help
Forty04
01-31-2007, 08:07 AM
ORIGINAL: t34me
Sounds like a good build, can i recommend agreddy type-s BOV, i love mine, it does the sputtering blow off, not just one big WOOOSH, more the: TSSS....TSssss. tsssss....whatever, just trying to help
That can actually be a bad thing if its happening all the time, compressor surge. Something to look into..
My04Civic
01-31-2007, 08:23 AM
that setup looks great, keep us informed on what your doin next
t34me
01-31-2007, 06:36 PM
ORIGINAL: Forty04
ORIGINAL: t34me
Sounds like a good build, can i recommend agreddy type-s BOV, i love mine, it does the sputtering blow off, not just one big WOOOSH, more the: TSSS....TSssss. tsssss....whatever, just trying to help
That can actually be a bad thing if its happening all the time, compressor surge. Something to look into..
Its not surge, its the way i have it hooked up, i used both vaccum lines instead of just the top one. I just like it better than the single venting, but if i decide to go back, all i have to do is remove the one line and the T fitting, and its back to WOOOSSHH
johnny
01-31-2007, 07:21 PM
LOl i love how he was happy about the sputterin noise and then Forty came in and told it it was a bad thing
cpl rampage
01-31-2007, 09:41 PM
well i got the crank bolt out, but not before snaping a socket adapter, i was using a 1/2 inch breaker bar with a 3/8 inch socket and the adapter twisted apart, so i bought a 1/2 metric socket and used that, and in combo with the breaker bar and a 8 foot pole i was able to get it out
as for the bov, i do like that tshh tshh sound, but normally thats compressor surge, are you actually supposed to hook up both to vacuume?can anyone confirm that it is ok hooking it up this way?
SovXietday
02-01-2007, 01:09 AM
Greddy RS only has one vacuum port, so idk what to tell you lol.
cpl rampage
02-01-2007, 06:51 AM
ORIGINAL: SovXietday
Greddy RS only has one vacuum port, so idk what to tell you lol.
maby he is talking about the type R, that has 2 ports on it,
come on people, i expected more here. I did not say RS, and no im not confusing with type R, I have a greddy Type-s BOV, notice the picture. If you just hook up the lower line=woooosshhh, both lines=tsss..tsss.tssss. I was not dissapointed at all because i knew it wasent what he was thinking.
well i got my block cleaned today, dam does it look sweet, no more oil stains or crud on the outside, nothing but clean aluminum.
tommorrow ill prolly start measuring the crank shaft, what sizes should i be looking for, and do i need to get the crank turned, what are the standar and over sizes for the main and rod journals?
Register and download the Helms manual for your car/engine. It should tell you most of what you need to know.
Forty04
02-14-2007, 08:37 AM
ORIGINAL: Kedawei
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
Register and download the Helms manual for your car/engine. It should tell you most of what you need to know.
Is there really any "easy" way to weed through that download though?? I tried looking through it, but 18,000 pages in PDF form is a bit intimidating. I'm starting to think I'm probably better off just ordering the damn book :D
SovXietday
02-14-2007, 09:33 AM
ORIGINAL: cpl rampage
tommorrow ill prolly start measuring the crank shaft, what sizes should i be looking for, and do i need to get the crank turned, what are the standar and over sizes for the main and rod journals?
Just use Honda Bearings.
For the crank journals, you measure the width of the journal on the crank and then each journal with the girdle bolted on. Subtract the two and that's your clearance. Remember, boosted engines like a bit of a loose fit.
Rod bearings, same thing, measure the rod journal on the crank and on the rod. Then, PLASTIGAUGE them for a more precise clearance.
Here's a really good writeup about how to build an engine.
those were dial calipers you posted way up there not micrometers. :)or dial indicators I dont know the differnce. but looks real good man. :D
riceburner700
02-14-2007, 10:38 AM
so many d-series builds:D these days
SovXietday
02-14-2007, 12:40 PM
*waits for them to get moved into the new project section*
cpl rampage
02-14-2007, 09:27 PM
ORIGINAL: SovXietday
ORIGINAL: cpl rampage
tommorrow ill prolly start measuring the crank shaft, what sizes should i be looking for, and do i need to get the crank turned, what are the standar and over sizes for the main and rod journals?
Just use Honda Bearings.
For the crank journals, you measure the width of the journal on the crank and then each journal with the girdle bolted on. Subtract the two and that's your clearance. Remember, boosted engines like a bit of a loose fit.
Rod bearings, same thing, measure the rod journal on the crank and on the rod. Then, PLASTIGAUGE them for a more precise clearance.
Here's a really good writeup about how to build an engine.
nice link, ive seen it before but havent really read it, so ur saying, measure the outsided diamaeter of the crank journal, and then hte inside diameter of the block journal, and the difference is the clearance i should get, and then confirm this my torquing it down with the plastigauge in ther right?
one other question, if my crank surfaces are all round then i dont have to get the crank turned, i just have to pick the bearings according to the size of the crank?
does anyone have a link that shows how to pick what bearings to use, i know the previous link has it, but i still feel a lil confused, i want to make sure ive got everything right before i buy the bearings.
SovXietday
02-14-2007, 11:09 PM
Plastiguage is mainly used on the rod bearings.
I personally saved the crank journal bearings as they didn't have enough wear to worry about replacing them. like I said, measure and measure again, check all of your clearances and order the bearings accordingly for the sizes. They're rated for a range of clearances.
cpl rampage
02-18-2007, 11:44 AM
well a few things happened this weekend.
first i honed the bores, now they are ready to be notched for the eagle rods (my friend should be bringing his angle grinder over tomorrow to do this)
then, i measured all the bores for diameter and roundness, thankfully they are all well within spec, the bigest difference between measurments on one bore was .001, so thats all good.
i also checked the block for warpage, across the entire surface the bigest gap was .0015 or less
now after reading up on how to size the bearings, i know how to do it, ill probably order the bearings and pistons this week, and depending on what else happens, maby the rods too. hopefully i will get alot of things done this week, its febuary vacation, thank god, a week with out high school WOOO!!! my friend with a supra is coming over tomorrow too, he blew his turbo, and hes got a replacement that we are gonna put in. and of course my fee for helping is letting me take a spin in it LOL.
p.s. where should i buy the bearings, the dealership, or somewhere else?
cpl rampage
02-23-2007, 06:03 PM
ok finally got the measurements for the main journals, what oil clearance do you guys recomend (sov expecially) i know you want it fairly large for boosted setups,
so do i ignore the limits in the manual and go larger then .0014? if i use .0014 as a base, the chart says a blue bearing insert. and i still havent found out where i should buy this stuff, any recomendations?
SovXietday
02-23-2007, 07:02 PM
Just buy it straight from Honda. As far as ordering the bearings, you want to order a little on the loose side, but IMO just order the bearings that are on the loose side for the clearances you measured.;)
cpl rampage
02-23-2007, 07:24 PM
ok cool, you say order straight from honda, is there a site, or just call up the local dealership, lol i know i sound like a nub....
one other thing, do i need to get my block and head decked? i havent measured the head yet, but the block is within .0015 of level. if both are that level, do i need to do it?
SovXietday
02-24-2007, 10:17 AM
Sounds ok to me. And yeah, just go call up the local dealership and they should be able to get the bearings for you.
Kedawei
02-26-2007, 12:20 AM
ORIGINAL: Forty04
ORIGINAL: Kedawei
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
Register and download the Helms manual for your car/engine. It should tell you most of what you need to know.
Is there really any "easy" way to weed through that download though?? I tried looking through it, but 18,000 pages in PDF form is a bit intimidating. I'm starting to think I'm probably better off just ordering the damn book :D
I have an outline via notepad at home that lists the beginning of each section. Like "Cylinder Head: 289," "Engine block: 426," etc. I'll post it when I return.
Forty04
02-26-2007, 10:07 AM
excellent! thanks mang
cpl rampage
02-27-2007, 05:26 PM
ORIGINAL: Kedawei
ORIGINAL: Forty04
ORIGINAL: Kedawei
http://www.hondahookup.com/manuals/
Register and download the Helms manual for your car/engine. It should tell you most of what you need to know.
Is there really any "easy" way to weed through that download though?? I tried looking through it, but 18,000 pages in PDF form is a bit intimidating. I'm starting to think I'm probably better off just ordering the damn book :D
I have an outline via notepad at home that lists the beginning of each section. Like "Cylinder Head: 289," "Engine block: 426," etc. I'll post it when I return.
i demand the outline now lol, my scroll wheel is going to melt soon.
also a lil update, i got a carbide bit to notch the block with, ill take lots of pics, since i couldnt find much on it my self. either later tonight or tommorrow
cpl rampage
03-15-2007, 04:14 PM
well the connecting rods came in yesterday, now all i really need is the pistons and bearings, next paycheck ill grab the pistons, and then depending on what happens, i will get the bearings and the gasket set, then comes the fun stuff, putting it all back together, and then on to the HEAD! lol
oh, and i about had a major problem with the rods yesterday, i started to mic the diameters, and i unknowingly miss read the mic, and was .1 to large, so im like wtf, i need a .1 oversize bearing, but then i realized my mistake, phew!
Remmy
03-16-2007, 09:13 AM
LOLZ. I forgot how you tell the difference... im a dumbass
cpl rampage
03-21-2007, 04:00 PM
well i orded the pistons and gasket sets a few days ago, they are due in end of the week, so thats all good.
what has me worried, is i went to the dealership today. the same one that runs the hondaautomotiveparts.com. i checked out how much it would be for all the engine bearings i would need, and the total came to $214!!!!, WTF, there is no way i am paying that much, where can i get a set cheeper, i would like to stay with oem bearings if i could.
Kedawei
03-21-2007, 11:23 PM
I like ACL bearings. (Still not home yet, sorry.)
SovXietday
03-21-2007, 11:49 PM
ORIGINAL: cpl rampage
well i orded the pistons and gasket sets a few days ago, they are due in end of the week, so thats all good.
what has me worried, is i went to the dealership today. the same one that runs the hondaautomotiveparts.com. i checked out how much it would be for all the engine bearings i would need, and the total came to $214!!!!, WTF, there is no way i am paying that much, where can i get a set cheeper, i would like to stay with oem bearings if i could.
Journal bearings ~ 100
Rod bearings ~ 100
Add tax.
cpl rampage
03-22-2007, 02:10 PM
oh, i saw how it added up, but dam, why so expensive if u can get the same thing from acl at less then half the price, sure they dont have the specifc sizes, but they are the same thing. o well, looks like ill buy em from acl then
Remmy
03-22-2007, 02:10 PM
I hate to tell yq but someimtes stuff like that can get expensive. Hell, ARP headstuds run $120 average... after all they are just bolts. (That was a huge understatement in a nut sheel fro the record)
cpl rampage
03-22-2007, 04:09 PM
yah, they arent cheep, but if u try to get a new set of oem head bolts from honda its almost the same, and the arp suff is stronger, that cant really be said for the oem bearings
ok, here is a lil update, first off, im buying the bearings tomorrow, i decided i have to buy the oem bearings cause otherwise its gonna be way too loose. as far as the whole project goes, its coming together, slowly but surely, i wish i could finish it for my 18th birthday, but unless i find a few 1000 dollars on the street in the next week that aint happening lol
i also put together all the pistons, rods, wristpins, clips, and rings. heres a pic.
and here is my lil tuitorial on how to notch your block. it may not be the prettyest, but it works and saves you money!
First of all here are the tools you need:
Dremel
right angle attachment
carbide cutting tip
dutting and tapping fluid (not required, but a good idea)
piston/rod/crankashaft
If you didn't know here is the area that has to be removed i dint have a pic of the area that i maked off, but aslong as it is atleast 3/4 wide and about 1/4 each way u should be fine:
Here is how i started to remove the material, add cutting oil, and make sure you use two hands and keep the tip from jumping, it tends to do that towards the edges of the area you have to remove:
wow, how have i never seen this thread before? Looks like a sweet build, keep this thread going :)
SovXietday
04-20-2007, 05:19 PM
Looks good! What rod bearings did you end up going with? I ended up with all greens.:)
cpl rampage
04-20-2007, 10:21 PM
thanks flip
i got some oem bearings, i had all blue mains and all brown for the rods, and all the clearnces worked out great, not bad for my first build, its amazing what info you can find on the net and in manuals lol
johnny
04-20-2007, 11:15 PM
Agreed, you can learn soo much on the net, you can learn how to do like 30 things by reading some DIY threads. i love HCF.
hondapwr
04-21-2007, 02:11 AM
sweet build keep the updates comming
SovXietday
04-21-2007, 02:47 PM
ORIGINAL: cpl rampage
thanks flip
i got some oem bearings, i had all blue mains and all brown for the rods, and all the clearnces worked out great, not bad for my first build, its amazing what info you can find on the net and in manuals lol
Wow really, all blues huh. I was all over the place, 1 brown, 2 greens, 1 yellow. Something along those lines anyway, lol.
cpl rampage
05-08-2007, 07:00 PM
well, the turbo has been ordered, since i found a good deal on a brand new turbo at rogue works, http://www.rogueusa.com/ (http://www.rogueusa.com/)
now just for it to get here, eventhough i cant put it on, it will be cool to look at for a lil while lol. i did line up a great summer job, so there shouldnt be to much of a money problems once i start working, wich should be in about 2 weeks, and i will beable to do co-op through school, so even more money, even before i graduate, woooo
aryiman98civic
05-08-2007, 08:54 PM
wow nice thread man, i havent checked back on this for a while. how much have you got on the turbo kit so far?
cpl rampage
05-09-2007, 03:41 AM
nothing besides the turbo, i was going to finish the motor before i went on to the turbo and stuff, but it was too good of a deal, and prices were going to go up june 1. 575 shipped for a new t3/t4 is not bad. I already know exactly what I want/need for the turbo setup, but i am goning to finish the motor now, with arp headstuds, and a new timing belt. here is a question, i was going tom get an OEM timing belt from honda, but i saw a gates racing timing belt, has anyone heard of them, and are they good? in their info it says it is supposed to last longer, at tougher conditions
Remmy
05-10-2007, 05:57 AM
Stick with the OEM belt
riceburner700
05-10-2007, 07:10 AM
oem ftw
cpl rampage
05-11-2007, 01:16 PM
figured, as much as i dont want to get raped again, i guess i will go back to the honda dealer again.
well i orded the head studs today, so atleast i will be able to put the head on, only thing left for the engine is the timing belt, and then eveything goes together.
can wait to get the turbo, even though i cant put it on, i can leave it in my car, and when people ask "Yo, you got a turbo in there?" I can say yah man, right here lol :D
cpl rampage
05-19-2007, 06:26 PM
Well, lil update today, nothing compared to sov's build, but i got both my head studs and turbo this friday. got the studs in and the head on. god i love studs, makes aligning the head and gasket sooo much easyer.
on thursday i helped my friend fix the starter on his supra, he gave me a manual boost controller that had come with the car since he doesnt use it, i am wondering a few things, what type is this, it doesnt look like a spring and ball type, does that mean it is a bleeder type controller, i attached some pics, the needle you see moves in and out of the hole as you twist the knob.
on a side note, i have seen people use their purge control solenoids to make staged manual boost controlers, i thought that was pretty cool, but im going to take it one step further. since im pretty good with electronics, i decided to make my own electronic boost controler, ive already got the basic circuit set up, right now i am simulating the pressure sensor with a potentiometer, but i should be able to drop in the sensor as soon as i got it. on thing i have been looking for is a chart that relates pressure vs voltage for a motorola 2 or 2.5 bar sensor, its not essential at this point, but as i progress to make it using a fully digital display and controls, it will be nessisary, if worst comes to worst, i could graph it out my self.
Man I love the look of brand new turbo's, lol. What trim is that?
I paid around the same for mine, can't remember exactly but the investment was worth it. :)
Car's coming together nice!
cpl rampage
05-22-2007, 10:59 AM
its a t3/t4 57 trim .63 ar, deffinatly a nice deal, and i dont ahve to worry about getting crap if had gotten it used
i also bought and put on the timing belt yesterday, engine is pretty much all together, i just need to have the oil pan fixed
cpl rampage
05-26-2007, 01:03 PM
Good news part 1. turbo manifold, radiator, and intercooler are orded as of today.
Good news part 2. the insurance adjuster came by and since i wasnt there, he gave a quote to fix the car, and what is awsome he included some damage that was on the car when i bought it, im still gonna have to go to court, but at least my car wont look beat up anymore. WOOOT
Bad news. I was fired from sears, not that big a deal, i wasnt selling enough overpriced extended warrentys. (dont buy any craftsman lawnmowers this year, lots of defects, and if u buy a treadmill, buy a extended warrenty, its worth it. just some advice from the inside lol) and since it is the begining of the summer, they can replace me in a day. but ive still got my fulltime job for the summer, so no slowing down for me lol.
An one question. the intercooler i bought was a 2.5 inch in/out unit. now im looking at the intercooler piping kits, and i deffinatly want one with 2 u-bends, unfortunatly they only come in 2.25 and 2.75 flavors(atleast in the price range i am looking at). what one should i get? Run the 2.25 and risk being bottlenecked in the future, or get the 2.75 and possibly hurt spool times because of the extra air in the tubes?
theonecalledtodd
05-27-2007, 06:46 AM
are you sure they dont make a 2.5" kit?? i couldv'e sworn i saw one somewhere, ill look around and link you if i find one, otherwise, i would go 2.5" piping, in the future, if you upgrade too much for it, its not too expensive of a buy.
cpl rampage
05-27-2007, 07:11 AM
yah they do make 2.5 kits on ebay, but i was looking for a kit that had 2 u-bends, which i could only find in 2.25 and 2.75, unless 2.5 is more expensive then 2.75, because i didnt look past that.
Thefbomb13
05-27-2007, 11:09 AM
Good luck with the brotha! lol that **** is gonna be fire hah
red2000Si
05-29-2007, 06:50 PM
http://store.racing-solutions.org/2suexbukit.htmlThis place has the best prices on the net. You should be able to complete all you IC piping if your strategical about it.
cpl rampage
05-30-2007, 04:04 PM
ok, talking with my friend, he has a set of injectors from a 88 rx-7 not turbo (460cc), from what i read they should fit, and would use a resistor box. one bad thing i have heard is theya re prone to cloging, can anyone confirm this?
he also has a set of 91 supra turbo injectors, wich are 440's i know i would need a resistor box, but does anyone know if they will fit in the mani? i cant find it anywhere online.
cpl rampage
06-02-2007, 12:59 PM
^^^^ Any one have any info about my last post?^^^
I got my exaust mani on friday, got some bolts for the turbo, and mocked up the placement, i did have to grind a lil off the block, just that lil spot where the braket that held the O2 sensor wires up. Looks good now, just have to wait for the intercooler and radiator on monday or tuesday.
also in mounting up the turbo, i was that the exaust outlet is prety close to the ac pump, measureing from the approximate place on the engine i have in my car now, it looks like i have about 3 inches from the outlet to the edge of the pump, its gonna be 2.25 inch piping out of the turbo, and then after that, it will probably flare out to 2.5 or 3 for the exaust. here is the question, what is the tightest benf for a 2.25 inch pipe? if it isnt tight enough i may have to do one of those multi-cut beands to make it tighter.
riceburner700
06-02-2007, 08:59 PM
thats the old manifold i was using. if you dont have ac just flip the turbo around
cpl rampage
06-03-2007, 04:43 AM
Thats the thing, i wanna keep my ac, so i have to keep it facing that way, and then ill just get a tight bend made and then right after the ac pump, ill flare it out.
cpl rampage
06-22-2007, 10:22 AM
Well alot has happened, i haven posted recently. i got my new exhaust on, i was originally gonna have one made by the muffler shop, but he wanted to rape me on the pricing, so i said, what the heck, i have an ebay exhaust on there, and it is still fine, so i bought a 3 inch ebay exhaust, with the monster fart can lol. its is extremely loud right now, so i am running it with the silencer in, and it sounds ok, when i get closer to putting in the turbo, i will have the fart can cut off, and a real muffler put on.
I also got my fuel pump, a walbro 255lph HP, i never knew how small they were lol, i was like wtf, what is this thing gonna do?
I got the oil feed and return kit from steathmode, but stupid me, i orded it for a t3 turbo, and not a new t3 turbo, aparently the new turbos have bigger inlets, and the bolts on the outlet are bigger in diameter. so i went and bought an adapter, and some new bolts.
Gauges came in yesterday, i got the cheep glow shift stuff from ebay, i know they arnt the most acurate things in the world, but they will work for now. I already got he pillar and gauges in, and wired for power and dimmer, but i only have the boost and A/F gauge wired to the sensors, ill put the oil pressure gauge in today.
I also painted the vc, i think it came out really good, expecially after i baked it in the oven. An the clear coat looks great too.
I bought a wastegate today, a turbonetics deltagate, its used, but it looks to be in good condition.
I will get some pictures up with all this tonight.
jake11375
06-22-2007, 04:17 PM
Looks like your build is coming along nicely... Looking forward to the end result bro.
riceburner700
06-22-2007, 04:32 PM
iv heard of some of those deltagates boost creaping like crazy
cpl rampage
06-22-2007, 06:46 PM
yeah, i kinda found that out after the fact, we will see, if it does, then no biggie, ill get another one, and sell it.
Ok, here is a good question, i am planing on using some dsm 440's, but i could all so get some 700's out of an rx7, they fit, and are low impedance, but, my one question is whill the car run alright if i dont use the injectors to their potental, like i plan on 250 - 300, are these too big?
95SpeedT
06-23-2007, 11:27 AM
Car will run fine with the 700's set to 300ish. But of course ur tuning it.
great build i love my built d16
riceburner700
06-23-2007, 04:13 PM
they will run just fine and still get good gas mileage if the tuner knows what hes doing
cpl rampage
06-23-2007, 04:55 PM
well that is good to hear, i will probably be getting tuned either at http://www.trickengineering.com/, or here http://www.tmtuning.net/ both of them come recomended.
here are some pics of the goodies i got,
Steathmode oil line kit
local://upfiles/13783/7C7DBA057F8D4A1DBEA70FB1418AF84D.jpg
The monster fart can :D
local://upfiles/13783/63AE1D646AF3445EAB2BD7C0B8058B5D.jpg
Gauges off
local://upfiles/13783/E193EF4F4F5847EC93667859E3D5A66C.jpg
Gauges on (yeah i know they are the cheep ones, but they work)
local://upfiles/13783/6862373A42BB4C148916E7E3996A421C.jpg
I ordered the DP flange, wastegate flange, piping, flex pipe, and muffler from summit. I amgoing to make my own DP, it will be a lil different, cause i amgoing to use the pie cut bend method to make a tight enough bend to clear the ac compressor, i will cut and tack it my self, and then have the shop weld it.
Here is the thread on how to make pie cut bends, pretty cool stuff
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=79775.0
phan10m
06-23-2007, 04:59 PM
Schweet
Remmy
06-26-2007, 06:29 AM
Dude, to hell iwth 700 injectors. you wont need them. RC 440's will work beautiful.
Forty04
06-26-2007, 08:12 AM
Might want to get your windows tinted, or else you'll probably end up with glare problems on those gauges... I had mine in the bezel thing, and the one on the left was rarely visible during the day. Just a heads up.
Everything else is looking great thus far
cpl rampage
06-26-2007, 08:24 AM
ORIGINAL: Remmy
Dude, to hell iwth 700 injectors. you wont need them. RC 440's will work beautiful.
yeh, i know the 700 are overkill, but if i can get them cheaper then 440's i might as well, as long as they will work for my aplication. and on top of that, they have been cleaned and flow tested.
As for the gauges, yeah if i am driving away from the sun at the end of the day, it is sometimes hard to see, i will get tinted, but not for awhile unfortunatly.
I did order my bov, i was orignaly gonna buy my friends greddy type s, but he decided to keep it, so i bought a turbo xs type h-rfl, i know it is realy loud, but i do like the sound.
Remmy
06-26-2007, 11:51 AM
Well, I still think you should get the 440's. To give you an idea, Im rocking 440 with 17 psi and have yet to hit their max.
SovXietday
06-26-2007, 01:23 PM
Coming together well man!!
Remmy 440s are good till about ~275whp or so, he said he wants to go for 300 so he'll need the larger injectors.
I run 780s, get about 25mpg too.;) Car runs beautifully, as long as you're running something like Crome you'll be fine as far as controlling them. Lol, at normal cruising speeds my injectors are at like 5% duty cycle.[8D]
cpl rampage
06-26-2007, 03:34 PM
does that mean that his are for sale? i am hesitant to buy dsm on ebay unless they have been flow tested, cause who knows if they work or not.
95SpeedT
06-29-2007, 11:45 AM
i have 440's supporting at least 300whp.
cpl rampage
06-29-2007, 12:45 PM
wow, thats not bad, i found a set on ebay that have been cleaned, orings and caps replaced, and flow tested, so i am gonna buy those, they arnt too expensive, i did get my intercooler piping and bov yesterday, looks good, ahtough i dont know how i am going to atach the piping to the turbo, i think i need a 2.25 to 2.5 adapter, or something. where do you guys get yours? i dont think i saw any on ebay, i did fine one on the net, sux tho, 30 bux, but they doo look really good.
Spanky
07-04-2007, 10:40 AM
damn man this is looking really good and im glad to see your having luck buying and putting everything together yourself. you seem like u know what ur doing. anyways i cant wait to see the final result. and could u give a final price on all of what you baught? id like to see what this setup is costing u.
cpl rampage
07-04-2007, 02:19 PM
ORIGINAL: Spanky
damn man this is looking really good and im glad to see your having luck buying and putting everything together yourself. you seem like u know what ur doing. anyways i cant wait to see the final result. and could u give a final price on all of what you baught? id like to see what this setup is costing u.
Thanks, I have aloways been into mechanical stuff, and with the internet, it is really easy to learn to do someting, just make sure you do your research, and when dealing with something like this, dont do it half assed. i dont have all the parts yet, but here is what i have bought so far, i planned on 3 grand total, and although all my friends said it was going to be alot more, it seems right on track. and the great thing with this setup is it has alot more room to grow, ie. do some head work, cam, and just turn up the boost and retune.
Well i bought the injectors this morning, a set of dsm 450's off of ebay, 127, plus a resistor box for 24, ill add that to the list above. The parts needed are getting smaller and smaller, All i can think of is Clutch, motor mount insets, vacume manifold, chip kit, dump tube, and a silcone reducer. its getting really close to done, to bad i am going on vaca next week, so things will have to wait. My new fender came in tuesday, and hopfully the bumper is coming today.
Forty04
07-06-2007, 10:50 AM
Awesome man, it's a good feeling knowing everything is coming together. Just be sure that you don't over look any minor details, don't wnat to be running out to the hardware/Autoparts stores every hour like i was[:@]
cpl rampage
07-06-2007, 11:15 AM
oh, dont i know it lol ^^^
Although it helps that i live less then a mile from an advanced auto parts, so riding the bike wont be too bad, or my parents cars, but then i have to wash my hands FTL lol
I just thought of something else i need, tubing for the vacume line, another thing on the list, and i need to get the fluids, like oil and antifreeze, as well as a new filters. does anyone have any good threads on how to break in your engine? and also what oil to use? I know you are not supposed to use synthetic, but are there any recomended brands? or is the store brand stuff fine?
Also, on the recomendations, i want to go with an action clutch, i am undecided between the 2ms and the 2md. anyone have any Recomendations, or things to think about either or?
Forty04
07-06-2007, 11:57 AM
Get with Remmy about the motor break in, I know he went through all that not TOO long ago.
Regular dino oil is good, store brand will work since you're only going to be running it for 500ish miles.
For the clutch...I have absolutely no idea. But when it comes time to order it, shoot me a pm and I might be able to get youa deal;)
Remmy
07-07-2007, 10:42 AM
Centerforce disc clutch. you will love it. any puck clutch isnt as good on street aps
SovXietday
07-07-2007, 08:53 PM
As far as break in, break it in as hard as you can. The way cylinders are constructed and the way rings are made, they are ready to seal the first few times they go up and down the cylinder. I basically just did a quick street tune, and with about 6 miles on the engine it saw full boost and hasn't looked back since. :)
Break it in as you intend to use the engine, break it in hard and it will be less resistant to blow by. Also just use standard motor oil for your first few miles, make sure to change it within the first 30 miles or so to get all of the metal shavings from the cylinders and such out. I still need to make the switch to synthetic.
2MD 2MD 2MD 2MD 2MD !!!!! [8D]
cpl rampage
07-14-2007, 07:31 PM
Well u have had the 2md for awhile, and i know they hook up the same, but do you have any problems with it being unsprung? expecially in DD usage and traffic?
cpl rampage
07-16-2007, 08:13 PM
Ok, i got the injectors in, a pretty nice set from ebay. everything is coming together, i have been thinking about the clutch, and i will probably get the 2ms so that it is a lil easyer on my tranny, since it is stock, and not the the best condition. Its so sweet, everything else besides the clutch are sub 100 dollars, and will be ordered as soon as i get the clutch
One thing i have been thing ing about, is inspections are next month. i will deffinatly have the motor in by next month, but how hard its it to pass emissions with a turbo in mass?
ej6buddy
07-16-2007, 09:55 PM
it all depends on the tune.
SovXietday
07-18-2007, 02:37 PM
ORIGINAL: cpl rampage
Ok, i got the injectors in, a pretty nice set from ebay. everything is coming together, i have been thinking about the clutch, and i will probably get the 2ms so that it is a lil easyer on my tranny, since it is stock, and not the the best condition. Its so sweet, everything else besides the clutch are sub 100 dollars, and will be ordered as soon as i get the clutch
One thing i have been thing ing about, is inspections are next month. i will deffinatly have the motor in by next month, but how hard its it to pass emissions with a turbo in mass?
Depends on your tune, luckily you get to use smog.
My suggestion... right before you throw the engine in get your inspection done, that way you have 14months till you have to worry about it again.
cpl rampage
07-18-2007, 07:16 PM
ORIGINAL: SovXietday
ORIGINAL: cpl rampage
Ok, i got the injectors in, a pretty nice set from ebay. everything is coming together, i have been thinking about the clutch, and i will probably get the 2ms so that it is a lil easyer on my tranny, since it is stock, and not the the best condition. Its so sweet, everything else besides the clutch are sub 100 dollars, and will be ordered as soon as i get the clutch
One thing i have been thing ing about, is inspections are next month. i will deffinatly have the motor in by next month, but how hard its it to pass emissions with a turbo in mass?
Depends on your tune, luckily you get to use smog.
My suggestion... right before you throw the engine in get your inspection done, that way you have 14months till you have to worry about it again.
Yeah thats what someone else said on another forum, now i just need to get my windsheild fixed, it got a crack from a freak hailstorm about 2 weeks ago...
cpl rampage
07-19-2007, 06:47 PM
Well here are some pics of my current progress, i have a rough fab of my downpipe, and my injectors in.
The dp is only tacked together now, im waiting for a peice to bent 90 degrees to go aroound the oil pan, from there i just have to tack the rest together and have the welder weld it up. I think it's gonna look great will it all weld up nicely, and it should flow pretty good, I perpously made it with a lot of pie cuts to keep it some what smooth, and since it clears the ac, it will be nice in the humid summer months.
The injectors were pretty easy to put in, like many of the tutorials said, the stock seals wernt tall enough, and since thye didnt hace the seal at the auto parts store, i got a set of orings the go between the seal and the injectors so that they protrude into the IM the same amount as stock. The caps do look funny on these things, almost looks like they are supposed to come off, here is the auction i bought them from, those yellow things arnt supposed to come off right lol, ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=017&sspagename=STRK%3AME WN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=270139346457&rd=1,1)
Man that DP is going to be beastly! One thing I noticed though, is that its going to be routed through the same area as the oil return line. I'm sure you've already taken this into account, just in case I wanted to toss it out there. I would mock up the oil return line before finishing the DP.
As for the injector caps, aren't those just to keep crap from getting into the injectors during shipping? I know my DSM's didn't have em
cpl rampage
07-20-2007, 05:27 AM
Yeah its gonna be in the same area, im gonna keep the DP as close to the block as possable, and then have the oil line loop arround it, and go to the far end of the block, it works pretty good since the line is really stiff, so it naturally bows out from the block. Depending on how close the dp is, i may heat wrap it. worst comes to worst, i will get a 45* Bend off the oil line coming from the turbo.
And the DP isnt that big, its only a 2.5 inch pipe, but i wanted to keep my ac, and didnt want to take the cheep way out, and weld on a bend that wasnt along the radius. At leas they DP will look cool lol.
Yeah those yellow caps are on there right now, ill pull em off when i get home, and take a better pic, but they have a hole in the center for the fuel, but im just guessing.
Forty04
07-20-2007, 06:35 AM
Interesting.
Dp will look great once its all together. The pics defintely make it look bigger than 2.5" but I'll take your word for it. Should be a real nice and clean setup once shes put together.
As for the oil line, as long as it's not bent too far and/or touching the dp you should be golden.
I'm diggin this project, and am excited to see what it looks like all pieced together
Keep up the good work!
SovXietday
07-20-2007, 08:03 AM
Run your oil lines before you run your DP, trust me especially when you come from the driver side like that, you'll run out of room REAL quick. Have your oil lines take priority, your DP can always find another way around even if it is kinda strange looking.
Otherwise looks great, good job with the pie cuts, that's gonna look nifty.
cpl rampage
07-20-2007, 08:40 AM
Yeah once i get the 90* bend, i will tack it on and then see how the oil line runs, because unfortunatly it is hard to visualize exactly where the dp will pass, because i am unsure of exactly what ange it will come off the pie cuts, and i couldnt hold the pipe and the 2 ends of the oil line. The pipe is actully supposed to be getting bent right now, and i hopefully will have it tonight. And my friend also let me know where i can go to get my flywheel resurfaced, and also a shop that will weld the aluminum bung on to my intercooler piping.
cpl rampage
07-20-2007, 06:32 PM
Well the pipe couldnt get bent today, so i will hopefully be able to do it tomorrow, i also received a mesage back from the seller on ebay, this is what he said
Those yellow caps are new replacement pintle caps, and are supposed to be kept on there. You probably see many injectors without the caps because the old ones can become brittle and break off.
So i guess i am good in that aspect.
cpl rampage
07-21-2007, 03:07 PM
I found a place that has a peice of mandrel bent piping, aparently there are no shops arround there that have a mandrel bender, but anyways, got a 90* bend, and finaished fabing up the DP, it think it came out really good. The oil in is also the proposed path that it will take, no kinks, its stays away from the DP, and it doesnt have any dips, i think it should be good. The socket that is under the DP, between the block is there to hold up the DP cause it is just sitting in the flange, i cant tack it untill all the pie cut have been welded since there wouldnt be enough room to get the welder in there.
that looks beautiful and why cant i be workin on my turbo build? wait i know cuz im broke
smith
07-24-2007, 12:38 AM
looking good. nice build. whhappisssh..
cpl rampage
07-26-2007, 03:24 PM
does anyone know where to get a peice of pipe that goes from 2.5" od to 3" od all of the reducers i found on summit racing are all one measurement is id and one measure is od, so they woud line up the way i want it, and i dont want to clamp it. the other thing is these transitions arent very smooth, they are very abrupt changes in size, a nice smooth cone would be best.
cpl rampage
08-04-2007, 06:00 PM
Ok, well i finally found a peice of pipe that is almost exactly what i wanted, figures they had to name it something special like a ventrui tube, w/e lol
Ok i just ordered the rest of the parts, so all i need now is the genaral tune up kind of stuff like, cap, rotor, plugs, wires, oil filter, fuel filter, oil, and anti freeze
cpl rampage
08-09-2007, 09:27 PM
OK the old engine is OUT!!!!! started tearing it out at 4:30 and didnt finish till 11:30, we took the axels out, rad and bumper off, header and intake off, and then pulled it out. it went smoothly for the most part, sept for a stripped bolt that held the lower drivers side mount to the frame, so i attempted to remove the center bolt, and didnt know it wasnt a bolts, and snaped the rubber peice out. we also sheared a socket adapter in half, as well as an exension peice. once we got the engine out, we speterated the trans and engine, so i could get the flywheel so it can be resurfaced tomorrow. i took some pics, but its too late to post em now. tomorrow after work.
cpl rampage
08-15-2007, 06:07 AM
Sorry about the lack of updates i havent had any time to pull the pics off the camera and post em. the new engine is in now, i had a few hickups allong the way, the bigest one being the distributor.
I knew that the head on my old engine was not the original head, and prolly came from a y8 engine, that in itself is not a big poroblem, since i am not reusing the head, but i am reusing the distributor. little did i know that the bolt patern is different for the distributors from the z6 and y8.
So The next morning i go to the junkyard, and of course all the distributors are gone. So off to advanced autoparts, there they wanted to charge me 225 for a reman, but i wouldnt be able to get my money back for the core charge, so went home and ordered one from distributor king, anbd payed to have it overnighted here.
Everyting else on the engine is done, turbo is on, intrcooler and all piping is done, oil lines are all hooked up, the downpipe is mint, vacumme manifold is hooked up and mounted. Fule pump and injectors are in.
I wired in the resistor box last night, and made an enclosure for my map sensor, i also started desodlering my ecu. after work today i will finish the ecu, and hook up the map sensor, and then it should be good to go. The few things left to do, that arent important to do before starting it are the blow off vlave needs to be welded on, i need to make a dump tube, and adjust the clutch pedle, there is a bit too much free play. I am impressed with the clutch tho, it is alot lighter then what i thought it would be, should be interesting trying to take off with it.
riceburner700
08-15-2007, 10:11 AM
i demand pics hahaha:D
cpl rampage
08-15-2007, 10:50 AM
Yeha ill deffinatly will get em up today, i didnt even take em, it was my dad lol, i was too busy and too dirty to touch the camera, he would have cut my fingers off if i touched the camera lol. I just haven't uploaded em cause i basicly work from 4:45 when i get home from work to around 11:00 everynight, and all day on the weekend. and i had college orientation on monday, so no work got done then. One thing i am not looking forward to is makeing another pie cut bend for the dump tube, it needs to be really tight to clear the power steering pump, then snake past the ac compressor, as well as the condensor fan, then it needs to job back to clear the DP, oil drain line, and the charge piping lol. everything is really tight on the front of the engine bay, but i think it looks really profesional.
It will be interesting driving to the mechanic to get the exhaust piping welded to gether, open DP FTW!
riceburner700
08-15-2007, 11:08 AM
open downpipes are so much fun and the turbo spools like crazy
cpl rampage
08-15-2007, 12:01 PM
yeah it will be fun on the ride to the mechanic, but i couldnt deal with the noise, and neither can the cops lol, i see a cutout in the future tho.
smith
08-15-2007, 06:53 PM
looking good....
cpl rampage
08-15-2007, 07:55 PM
Ok here are the pics, kinda limited, but u get the idea lol, ill take some better ones later, the real news is below the pics
This is Nick and Eric, my partners in crime lol
local://upfiles/13783/269829210A9E4E389E365DB965653AA8.jpg
local://upfiles/13783/8EA243C1CE144BA790A6EE103C780B14.jpg
Im the smiling idiot on the right [8D]
local://upfiles/13783/793B28163B104F4FBA20B74EF7187619.jpg
local://upfiles/13783/298CE053F22B4E418B33E086FFF6A08A.jpg
I promise i wasnt drunk, just tired :D
local://upfiles/13783/9B07E9C9FD574283AD5D041F51589F8A.jpg
Ok here is the reall news, got the ecu chipped, map sensor wired up, o2 sensor out of the old mani and into the dp. cranked it over dry. and then reconnected the dizzy and fuel pump. Cranked it and....
IT STARTED ON THE FIRST CRANK OMG !!!!!11!!!!!11!1
Lol now that i got that out... so it cought and started up great, loud as all hell with the open dp, but w/e lol. so we shut it off, and closed up a few last things. and restarted it, and it started like a charm. here is where the ****storm started. we wanted to take it out for a spin but we wanted to check the timing first. so we hook up the light to the number one plug, and turned it on. the timing was almost all the way to the tdc lines. so we started to turn the dizzy but it didnt do anything, we forgot to jumper the ecu. so we do that and try to set the timing, but even witht the dizzy all the way counter clockwise we could only get it close to the 3 marks. so we shut it off and pull the jumper, and starte it, and now we have a surging idle, cel and the timing is still off. we contrinue to try it, and even try to clear the ecu after we couldnt pull the code. it started again and still has the surge. we shut it off again, and when we tryed to start it, it wouldnt start. at that time it wsa 10 oclock and too late to start it again, so that will have to wait till tomorrow. i can gaurentee i wont sleep tonight, now will i get any work done at work lol. any sugesstions are welcome.
cpl rampage
08-16-2007, 01:48 PM
im not even worryed about the timing now, here is what happens.
I astart the car, catches first time.
Let it warm up, it doesnt seem to get anyworse, but then it starts to get a surging idle. i let it do that for a sec, and then i shut it off.
i try to restart it, and it just cranks and cranks, but never catches.
the surging idle might be the iacv or the fast idle valve too, but i have no clue why it wont restart
it has a solid cel, and i cant pull a code. but im not sure if it is on when i start it or if it comes on later
I NEED HELP, PLZ LOL!
Forty04
08-17-2007, 04:30 AM
What happens when you try to pull the code? CEL just go away?
What IM/TB are you running? I dont think z6's have fast idle valves. I guess just clean out your IACV, search for vac leaks, and pin down that surge and kinda work from there.
cpl rampage
08-17-2007, 05:14 AM
when i set the jumper, and turn the key to the on position, the cel light stays on solid, no flashing, ahothough after a lil pause the srs light will flash, but that is a constant flash, i dont know why it would do that.
I am running a stock z6 manifold and TB, although th TB is from an automatic, but it should still be the same right? it just has an extra spot for a cable. I dont have the book infront of me, but what is the thing under the intake manifold that has coolant flowing through it, isnt that the fast idle valve? if i had a n air bubble in the system it could cause that to surge right?
yesterday after i shut it off, and it wouldnt restart, i pulled the plugs out, and they were covered in fuel, i think that might be because i was cranking it over with out it starting. so not starting could either be too much fuel, or no/bad spark. im gonna check that out today, i didnt get much time after i posted yesterday, cause i promised to hang out with some friends. so i guess i will just start after work today.
s2000gtx
08-17-2007, 05:27 AM
U sneaky person, did u hide ur intercooler on purpose [8D]? trying to make the car a sleeper
yeah i didn't know it was gonna work out that way, but i like it that way, deffinatly sleeper, now i just need to get a small lip so that the bottom of the intercooler is covered up.then i will be set, ahtough the bov isnt really sleeper lol
Forty04
08-17-2007, 06:24 AM
I'm an idiot...for whatever reason I constantly forget that I'm running a y8 IM/TB setup on my z6, hence the no FITV. Yeah, yours probably has it and it should be mounted on the bottom of the TB. I would start there, theres a How To on fixing it at honda-tech.
Definitely bleed the coolant system when you get a chance. Start with figuring out the starting issue, then once you've got it running well enough (surging or not) bleed the system and see if that helps.
If the CEL stays solid while you're jumpered, it's supposed to mean you're okay. However, if you're getting a CEL without it jumpered then there is definitely something wrong. Sounds identical to the problem I was having, which resulted in my switching ecus.. Hopefully thats not the case for you
cpl rampage
08-17-2007, 06:47 AM
yeah i think i am gonna start it up and burp it before i shut it off again, that way atleast i will get rid of the simple stuff
i would hope its not a bad ecu, i just chipped it, and it worked fine before.
riceburner700
08-17-2007, 08:57 AM
did you ever burp the system when you first started it?
cpl rampage
08-17-2007, 09:22 AM
not yeat it the first thing on the adgenda for today.
cpl rampage
08-17-2007, 02:25 PM
ok, i started it up right away, and took it for a spin down the street, no power at all, it still had a bad idle, so i brought it back and shut it off, i tryed turning it back on again, and it started right back up. i actually di that a few times. then i shut it off and came to check my post etc, and went back and it wouldnt start, i took the sparkplugs out at this point, they wernt wet with gas anymore, but they were really sooty, so it is deffinatly runnign rich.
The idle problem deffinatly sounds like a fast idle valve problem, but why it wont start, still has me boggled. i need to get a noid light, and see if i am getting spark when it doesnt start, are there anycases where it would cut spark?
cpl rampage
08-18-2007, 12:59 PM
ok, it started to get a lumpy idle again, and i disconnected the iacv, and it died, what does that mean?
Oh, and then when it didnt start after it died, i tested for spark, and its got spark, so thats ok. any ideas?
I can smell fuel when i try to start it, so maby it is flooding the engine, could a bad temp sensor cause it to think it was cold? and pump more fuel in?
cpl rampage
08-20-2007, 03:36 PM
Well it wasnt a bad temp sensor...
with my narrowband hooked up, it gets rich then dies, and when it gets to the optimal point on the gauge it fires again, i know this is pretty pointless, but anything might help.
It was just like before, idle was fine, and then as it heated up it got lumpyer and lumpyer. So here are the options that are going through my head right now,
1.) Wrong fuel pump, i bought the walbro 190 lph high pressure pump, i dont think i was supposed to get a high pressure pump, could this be raising my fuel pressure even though there is an FPR? would it be worth it to buy a fuel pressure gauge to check this?
2.) Bad ecu, i chipped it my self, and there is a solid checkengine light, and i cant pull the code when i have the jumper.
3.) Bad basemap, i belive the specs were sent correctly to xenocron, although i didnt say that i had a HP fuel pump.
4.) Open downpipe, i dont think this could cause it, but i am open to sugesstions. i did try putting a board infront of the dp as to create some back pressure, but it didnt do anything.
I also tryed disconnecting a coupler, and seeing if it was the turbo causing it, but it did not change.
I then cut the jumper to return the ecu to the normal state, it starts up fine, idles a lil low, but i think that is because i was messing with the idle screw earlyer. no check engine lights so that is good, although the srs light flashes after a lil bit, but it is a constant flashing, is this normal?
So i am going to go over my chipping, and look for problems, but it might also be a bad base map.
if ANY one has any sugesstions, please tell me, i kinda feel like i am talking to a wall right now.
nik005
08-20-2007, 06:10 PM
take the charge pipe off ur turbo to ur tb and run the unchipped ecu just like its a stock n/a car and see if it works then could be it has nothing to do with ur turbo or ecu when i had a bad idle it turned out that it was just some sensors hooked up wrong
cpl rampage
08-20-2007, 07:28 PM
yeah thats what i said i did, when i ran the stock settings on the ecu, it ran fine, no cel and no lumpy idle, so it really must be either a bad chiping or a bad basemap
cpl rampage
08-22-2007, 06:09 AM
well i had a chance to go over my solder work yesterday, i found 2 cold solderjounts on the main rom chip, so lets hope that was the problem. I didnt have a chance to test it out because it is just too f**king loud. too loud to drive it after dinner time or so.
before i took the ecu out, i drove it up and down the street to warm it up so i could check for the lopy idle when it warms up, and it seems gone. It was pretty cool tho, i got to the end of my street and all the kids playing soccer on the field accross the street stop playing and stare. i do my u-turn and blip the gas a lil bit, hehe i think one of em jumped lol. theo other cool thing is it idles really low, and with the open DP, it sounds really cool, kinda like a big v8 burble.
so the adgenda for today is to jack the car up and tightn the alternator belt alil bit, it squeals a lil bit everytime u start it cold, once i do that, i will hook up the ecu running the custom base map, and see how it does. I will be happy if the CEL is gone, if the bad idle goes away, it would be great too. so lets hope for the best and wish me luck lol.
cpl rampage
08-22-2007, 08:39 PM
wooot, the car runs awsome, it was the bad solder joints that caused all the problems. cant type much now, i will fill youin on thursday
Forty04
08-23-2007, 04:04 AM
ORIGINAL: cpl rampage
wooot, the car runs awsome, it was the bad solder joints that caused all the problems. cant type much now, i will fill youin on monday
WOOOOOT!
Congrats bro
cpl rampage
08-23-2007, 05:11 AM
Thanks lol. So yeah, it was just the bad solder joints, i guess the when the chips heated up and expanded the connections broke, and caused my numerous problems lol.
I popped in the fixed ecu, connected the battery. Started it, it high idles perfectly at 2K, started warming up, and it slowly idles down to around 850.
took it out for a spin, not really boosting, only 1 or 2 psi, put i can already notice the difference, expecially from my old engine that was running on 3.5 cylenders.
Monday or tuesday i will have the exhaust welded up. so then atleast i can drive to work for a day or two berfore i go to school.
Forty04
08-23-2007, 08:37 AM
Good stuff. Tune that bitch up and start rippin!!
cpl rampage
08-24-2007, 07:42 AM
my god, if it isnt one thing, its another. no solid cel now, but i am throwing a code 21, which is the vtec solenoid. so today i will be pulling out the multi meter and tracking down that problem., woo hooo lol
cpl rampage
08-26-2007, 09:45 AM
Well the code 21 is fixed, it turned out that there were 2 rubber gaskets on the harness connector to the vtec solinoid, the old one had stayed with the harness and the one on the new engine was alredy in the connector, so i just had to take one out and snap the connector in.
I am working on makeing the dump tube, and i am bringing it to the exhaust shop tonight to have the exhaust patched up.
riceburner700
09-07-2007, 05:15 PM
get a video up man!
cpl rampage
11-11-2007, 12:26 PM
i havent updated this thread in a looooooooong time lol, the exhaust is fixed, the bov is on, and i made an intake and filter assembly, i had to take it off the road because i couldnt afford insurance, being in college and all, but now i just got a job so im goning to buy the tunning equipment and put it back onn the road.
cpl rampage
12-31-2007, 02:02 PM
Well another lil update, i have been tuning it in my spare time that last few weeks, all is going ok so far, i had a few hickups with geting the com settings right for the dataloger and the romulator, but its good now.
I did have one question for those of you that have tuned with crome before, what do i need to set the gear tables to? I found the theoratical max speed per gear, reving out to redline using this site, http://autocrossing.com/cgi-bin/gearcalc.cgi and then input the valuses into the gear table, but i am not sure what goes where, do i use the speeds from 1-4 or 2-5? and should i be calulating using the redline or should i go lower? right now it gets first and secong gear right but when i shift to third it says i shifted to fourth, and when i shift to fourth it says i shifted to fifth
cpl rampage
02-13-2008, 07:52 PM
Hey, not too much activity on my end, I did make some vids though, check em out
as for the crank bolt...stick a chisel or a screwdriver in the flywheel to keep it from spinning then get the breaker bar on there and jump on it...lol thats how i got mine off...
GOTeg?
04-09-2008, 05:51 PM
thats cool man... i have a d16 also... i will prob be in the same road as you... i wanted get the head new valves etc eventually get the bottom end... how much did it cost you for the whole motor ?
cpl rampage
04-09-2008, 07:43 PM
here is the list of everything I bought. I am gonna keep it this way for a bit, once i finalize the tune i will be working on cosmetics, mainly getting the paint/bodywork up to spec