if i got turbo for my d17a1 would i need high cmopression pistons and other things or could i just ge the turbo kit and be good to go?

d17 = bad for boost (or anything really)

and average compression is fine for average levels of boost

ORIGINAL: 03civiclxcoupe

if i got turbo for my d17a1 would i need high cmopression pistons and other things or could i just ge the turbo kit and be good to go?


Oh dear...

Research research research, I cannot say it enough.

Boosting an lx will be a horrible and expensive thing to do... you cant just strap one on and drive it... there are turbo kits for the ex but it isnt worth it. all the components needed to support the turbo will cost so much you'd be better off going n/a with a k20 block from a rsx-s

ORIGINAL: ej6buddy

d17 = bad for boost (or anything really)

Not really, d17's are actually pretty decent with boost. Just depends on the build and the tune.

ORIGINAL: TheMoogly
Boosting an lx will be a horrible and expensive thing to do... you cant just strap one on and drive it... there are turbo (http://www.hondacivicforum.com/post.asp?do=reply&q=1&messageID=364311&toStyle=tm# ) kits for the ex but it isnt worth it. all the components needed to support the turbo will cost so much you'd be better off going n/a with a k20 block from a rsx-s

The turbo kits work for the lx/dx and ex, all you need is a downpipe to convertthe lx/dxto an ex exhaust. Then relocate the o2 sensor.

ORIGINAL: SovXietday
Oh dear...

Research research research, I cannot say it enough.
Exactly.

Someone should start a thread and give specific reasons why the D17 is bad to boost.... and good to boost in your opinion Bel.:D

ORIGINAL: TheMoogly

Boosting an lx will be a horrible and expensive thing to do... you cant just strap one on and drive it... there are turbo kits for the ex but it isnt worth it. all the components needed to support the turbo will cost so much you'd be better off going n/a with a k20 block from a rsx-s


Oh god let's not start that again! Lol.

Someone should start a thread and give specific reasons why the D17 is bad to boost.... and good to boost in your opinion Bel.

Starting now.

ORIGINAL: INJENalltheway

Someone should start a thread and give specific reasons why the D17 is bad to boost.... and good to boost in your opinion Bel.:D


I never said good. It's just not as horrible as everyone seems to think. Lol

ORIGINAL: Belmont

ORIGINAL: INJENalltheway

Someone should start a thread and give specific reasons why the D17 is bad to boost.... and good to boost in your opinion Bel.:D


I never said good. It's just not as horrible as everyone seems to think. Lol


i didn't mean horrible either, it's just the design of the motor isn't as well set up as it's counterparts such as some of the d16's and b motors (of course)

I would like to see Belmont's defense of the D17. Yes, you can find examples of D17s being boosted to 300+whp, but how long did they last? Not as long as older Ds. Science is inescapable.

ORIGINAL: Kedawei

I would like to see Belmont's defense of the D17. Yes, you can find examples of D17s being boosted to 300+whp, but how long did they last? Not as long as older Ds. Science is inescapable.

Did I say they will outlast the older D series? No. Did I say the engine was great? No. The engine itself is not as bad as everyone makes it out to be. However, the aftermarket support is crap.

I could show you examples of daily driven 200+ WHP d17's all god damn day. How long did forty's D last boosted? What happened to petes d16?**** happens it doesnt matter what engine you have. Berzerker blew his "almighty" B16. Does that make the engine ****ty? No.

Scienceis inescapable? Lol, please show me the science behind that. It may be true but you madeit sound soo ghey.

Gay? What's that have to do with anything? Grow up.

As for the D17, the main, blaring problem that I see with it is its stroke. Its long stroke creates several problems: increased cylinder wear, increased piston speed which increases stress/wear throughout the bottom end (the wrist pin location is actually offset to cope with this, that's a bad sign), and poor top end power. In addition to that, if I recall, it has a returnless fuel system, which means fuel pressure cannot be increased, and older metal intake manifolds cannot be used to directly replace the plastic manifold that's in there now. It also has a distributorless ignition, so I don't know how you would adjust ignition timing without the use of AEMs full standalone unit ($1500) or equivalent, which is fine I guess since tuning fuel with piggybacks is crap anyway, andyou can't use older ECUs with the traditional Neptune, Hondata, Chrome, etc. I'm also not sure who makes an aftermarket cam or valvetrain assembly for it, which I guess is ok because you wouldn't want to rev it that high anyway.

Basically its expensive, its labor intensive, and when you're all done it still won't work as well as the older D series.

ORIGINAL: Kedawei

Gay? What's that have to do with anything? Grow up.

As for the D17, the main, blaring problem that I see with it is its stroke. Its long stroke creates several problems: increased cylinder wear, increased piston speed which increases stress/wear throughout the bottom end (the wrist pin location is actually offset to cope with this, that's a bad sign), and poor top end power. In addition to that, if I recall, it has a returnless fuel system, which means fuel pressure cannot be increased, and older metal intake manifolds cannot be used to directly replace the plastic manifold that's in there now. It also has a distributorless ignition, so I don't know how you would adjust ignition timing without the use of AEMs full standalone unit ($1500) or equivalent, which is fine I guess since tuning fuel with piggybacks is crap anyway, andyou can't use older ECUs with the traditional Neptune, Hondata, Chrome, etc. I'm also not sure who makes an aftermarket cam or valvetrain assembly for it, which I guess is ok because you wouldn't want to rev it that high anyway.

Basically its expensive, its labor intensive, and when you're all done it still won't work as well as the older D series.


i'm sorry belmont, but i was going to say the same thing, i'm just too dam lazy to type all that

ORIGINAL: Kedawei

Gay? What's that have to do with anything? Grow up.

As for the D17, the main, blaring problem that I see with it is its stroke. Its long stroke creates several problems: increased cylinder wear, increased piston speed which increases stress/wear throughout the bottom end (the wrist pin location is actually offset to cope with this, that's a bad sign), and poor top end power. In addition to that, if I recall, it has a returnless fuel system, which means fuel pressure cannot be increased, and older metal intake manifolds cannot be used to directly replace the plastic manifold that's in there now. It also has a distributorless ignition, so I don't know how you would adjust ignition timing without the use of AEMs full standalone unit ($1500) or equivalent, which is fine I guess since tuning fuel with piggybacks is crap anyway, andyou can't use older ECUs with the traditional Neptune, Hondata, Chrome, etc. I'm also not sure who makes an aftermarket cam or valvetrain assembly for it, which I guess is ok because you wouldn't want to rev it that high anyway.

Basically its expensive, its labor intensive, and when you're all done it still won't work as well as the older D series.

First off, your right I shouldnt of said you sounded gay. Im sorry that offended you. Secondly, thats a good post.

If you really want to argue this I can bring someone in who is far more knowledgable than me when it comes to boost, and the d17. Any engine is going to have added stress and wear when equiped with a turbo. :eek:There are aftermarket intake manifolds for pretty cheap. The returnless fuel system can be convertedfairly easily. Andas far as the engine management system, AEM'sems is probably the best, however there are cheaper plug and plays.Finally, Yes there are aftermarket cams available. So what if itwont work better than the old D series? When did I say it would? You see, the problem is you cant swapan older D series into a 7thgen lol.

Well when you break it down, you can boost a Z6 or a Y8 much easier than a D17. As far as mine blowing up......I expected it. I had an auto tranny, and the car was not tuned at all. I was running a greddy blue box, and I had no wideband.....so who knows what my A/F ratio was at. I didnt care, I knew it was going to blow eventually. I am not scared of boosting again either, my current GSR motor WILL see boost sometime.........maybe not soon, but eventually it will.

thats the spirit

ORIGINAL: Pete

Well when you break it down, you can boost a Z6 or a Y8 much easier than a D17.


And it will be a lot cheaper.

I figure that after you buy all the crap for the turbo -along with the cost of the turbo- you could be close to the cost of the k20 block alone. Am I right on that? Figuring that some of those kits on procivic.com say as much as $3000 for it then all the stuff SovieXday says in his sticky.... either way you go, expect to be poor afterwards!

By the way, Belmont, what kind of upgrades do you have on your civic? Have any pictures of your engine bay or anything? I am always looking for little parts here and there! I have seen Chimera's and My04civic's cars but not yours... what do you got?!:) thanks!