hey guys, i think this is the right section here. Ok i can get a good deal on a fresh D16Y7. I plan to build this bad boy up and drop it in for my turbo project, but i need a little help from you all on this subject.
1)The engine comes with a OBD0 distributor the man said, how much of a diference does this make (I.e. will i need to get an "obd1" dizzy to be able to run this on an obd1 ecu) i plan of course to use a chipped OBD1 ecu.
2)Is the Y7 block any weaker than say a Z6 or Y8, or are the blocks identical and the differance is the head? I dont want to start out with my block being my weak link you know? If thats the case i will go with a different engine.
3)Is all that is needed for a mini-me vtec swap a vtec head and an ecu (chipped P28 in my case) to run it, or is there more to it then that??
Thanks for the help guys. Todd[align=left] [/align]
__________________
with love, Todd
project, 95' Del Sol-- the ugly duckling
1998 honda civic EX 4-door (yes 4!!!)
5-speed manual
D16Y8
1. If your building this engine for a turbo set up you don't want to run a stock distributor anyways. MSD makes a nice setup, I suggest checking that out.
2. The blocks are iddentical. Only difference is the head. When you full off the head you'll see a plug that you need to remove to convert to a Y8 head. when you see it you'll know what I'm talking about. It's kinda hard to explain.
3. Most people when reffering to a "mini-me" swap their talking about puttinf a D15 head on a D16 block. It's kinda like trhe GSR of single cams. And it's alot more work than just swapping out heads and computer. Now if your just trying to get a v-tec head and put on your block then yes they bolt right up and all you need is the computer or you can run v-tec on a switch. It's kinda neat to run it on a switch cause you can set it up to where v-tec kicks in at like 3,000 rps.
all right, thanks man, so yeah looks like i got a build on the way if the guy didnt sell it yet. And yes, i was thinking a z6/y8 head on a Y7 block and that would just meen head swap and ecu exchange right? Glad to here the block will withstand the same as a z6 cuz i am getting an awsome deal, running engine minus the tranny, 175 bucks, lol cant beat that. (guy swaped in a b16 in his ek hatch, the y7 has 105k on it and leak down a compression came out fine)
[align=left] [/align]
__________________
with love, Todd
project, 95' Del Sol-- the ugly duckling
1998 honda civic EX 4-door (yes 4!!!)
5-speed manual
D16Y8
I don't agree with much of anything that WTB9295Hatch has posted...
First of all, what car is this setup going into, and what engine harness are you running?
1 - Why there is an OBD0 dizzy on an OBD2 motor, is beyond me. The guts, for the most part are the same, but I gaurantee all three flanges do not line up, probably only one, maybe two..If you're going to run OBD1, I would honestly get an OBD1Dizzy.
2 - Contruction wise, the blocks are basically the same, its the guts that differe slightly. The number one best thing you can do for a y-series block, is to pull the oil pump out, and bore its ports. It needs the ability to flow more oil, as the stock setup is quite restricted. Otherwise, y7's have been known to produce 300+whp with aftermarket internals.
3 - This depends on what car/engine harness you're attaching the motor to
__________________
Don't PM me with tech questions
Antartic Blue Super Sports wagon with C.B. and optional Rally Fun Pack
on a sidenote alot of people decide to boost the y7 without mini-meing becasue VTEC is just another thing that can fail. VTEC is always good (esepcially with boost), but again, its just anotehr install that can get messed up and cause you headache in the future.
EDIT: just save the $600 from mini-me and use it for the turbo kit.
meh, sounds good then, i dont have a car to put it in yet, thats part of the problem, i plan on getting everything set up built engine, turbo ect. Then picking up a shell from around here (everyones got one, lol) BUT i am looking alot for a del sol if i can find one for a decent price. Thanks for the help guys.[align=left] [/align]
__________________
with love, Todd
project, 95' Del Sol-- the ugly duckling
1998 honda civic EX 4-door (yes 4!!!)
5-speed manual
D16Y8
Well, when you find out for sure what the motor is going into, let us know.
If you're picking up a shell though, it'd be optimal (IMO), for you to pick up an engine harness for that specific motor, it'll save you some headaches.
__________________
Don't PM me with tech questions
Antartic Blue Super Sports wagon with C.B. and optional Rally Fun Pack
Pistons, rods, oil pump, valves, springs, retainers, camall the bearings and seals...you can doo all that before you even start looking into the electronics part of it, but make sure you know your goal. You don't want to end up with low compression pistons and a N/A camshaft.
ORGINALY POSTED BY: reaper2022
Just remember:
Going past your vehicle's redline (even with an upgraded valvetrain) is like smoking; sure, you might enjoy it while you're doing it, but eventually you'll look back and realize the damage you've done
Y7 help me real fast
