Alright my newest project is a 2000 DX ... D16Y7...single cam non-v-tec for those who don't know what comes in what car and how to read engine codes. The car has a salvage title and was totaled in the rear end. I finally have it all semi put back together...enough to drive it on the road anyways. Now I've come to the real brian picker. Should I buy a D16Y8 head and build it to make a nice V-Tec kicker. Or should I leave it non-V-Tec and stick a small turbo on it. All I want is something that will hold it's own on the street. I'm not looking for a nasty V-8 killer, I'd like something that runs on 93 pump gas, very reliable, and will run high mid 9's at the local 1/8 mile track. I know either way I will have to get the car tuned. I figure I can go to stage 2 cams, port and polish the head, oversized valves, bigger throttle body, better intake manifold,and put the V-Tec on a switch and the car will do all this. Or I can leave it stock, run 8psi on a small turbo, get a turbo manifold, intercooler, BOV, and wastegate, and achieve the same thing. So I'm coming to you for your suggestions. While I like the sound of the BOV there still something to be said of an N/A car running w/ a small turbo car don't you think?
I don't think that you can just put vtec on a switch and even you could it would be pointless. If you really wantto do something like that then get a vtec controller that will let u set what rpm u want it to engage but Honda engineers already set the engagement point at the best possible point for a stock engine. I would say that when you get the car tuned then you could have the tuner adjust it if it needs to be because of the mods you do to it.
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ORIGINAL: Vilex
Honestly, if you would want to buy a modded civic with all the work done for you. I pity you, thats no Honda Enthusiast.
I don't buy into that "the engineers at Honda have selected the best possible" blah blah. I think they selected that paticular point simply because the other components such as cylinder head, IHE, etc stop breathing so well, so they pop in a extra set of more aggressive cam lobes to compensate for the losses as long as possible (which is only 1-2k rpm). Most race-oriented engines that retain VTEC actually do set the engagement point lower than stock even with far more aggressive cams, just to get more out of the top lobes where they intend to operate.
I think the only reason people lose power when they try to lower the VTEC engagement point is because they don't know how to recompensate the fuel and timing required to accomodate the change over.
As for the OPs question, hook up a Z6 head and forget about it. Port/polishes are too expensive.
i shoulda figured, but my eyes were too glazed over to read past the fourth or fifth sentence since the original forgot what paragraphs was, apparently.
As for the OPs question, hook up a Z6 head and forget about it. Port/polishes are too expensive.
Port and polish I can do myself. It takes me around 8 hours of good solid working time...I usally do an hour or so when I get off of work...But it makes a world of difference. Freeer reving engine and a SLIGHT bump in hp. I don't mind doing it and there's no point in putting a bigger TB and IM if it's going to be restricted at the head.
So someone tell me...What's the difference between a Z6 head and a Y8 head other than the year of manufacter?
You can run the V-Tec on an MSD nitous cut on/off system. You simply select the rpm you want power to go to something and what rpm you want it to shut off at. I've done that and seen it done before me. Sorry I should have clarified "switch".
well the Z6 head hits vtec sooner than the Y8 head i think the Z6 head is at 4800 rpm and the Y8 is at 5200 correct me if im wrong please... but yeah get the Z6 head and get the Y8 intake manifold... :-D thats what my freinds do and they seem very pleased but i dont know the difference between those manifolds so cant help you there sorry :-/ but yeah i hope im correct haha
Build The Head Or Turbo The Engine?
