Compression test: all cylinders at 115

FJ11 (ordered a T25, got sent this), internally gated at 7 PSI. Similar in size to a T25, out of an old Ford Probe.

FMIC/2.5" Charge piping Got my FMIC, dimensions were . Charge piping i'm using t-bolts and found a kit off of ebay for $130

K&N Filter Found one with an inlet size perfect to fit around the 1.75" compressor inlet. Had to get it specicially ordered from a local auto parts store.

GReddy Full Auto Turbo Timer/Harness $105 for both.

Oil Line Kit from http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-uni.shtml: $92 gonna havta get a custom one since htey dont make one premade for the FJ11

Ebay BOV: Got one from Sniper.Its a knock-off, but it'll do hte job for now.

OBD1 ECU/convesion harness/basemap at www.phearable.net (http://www.phearable.net): $230.

Crome Tuning Getting it tuned by CornBred tuning, they are giving me $150 for 3 hours of Crome tuning (and then $40 wideband hookup)

Custom downpipe at Joes: $25I'll have my car towed to a local muffler shop and they'll custom weld me one with a bung in it for the wideband

Boost gauge/Tach/Volt/Triple Pillar Pod: each gauge was $30, pod was like $40

HF Cast Turbo Manifold: got mine for $40

DSM 450cc injectors: traded my RC310cc's for these

Golden Eagle Vac Manifold: got mine for $40

New Headgasket/ARP Headstuds: these are a recent addition to my project, might as well

This first post is basically now just a list of everything i have/am getting

forgot to add the tune, i'm aware of this though. Tony if you read this, if you could talk to your guy down there in Grand Rapids that street tuned for you, tell him i'm interested in getting a tune whenever this is all together, and ask him about his prices too. Thatd be aweosme, thanks man.

I have about everything you need other than the management. I have the water cooled t25 turbo with hf mani and adapter plate. I have charge piping( not the greatest but it works) Boost gauge, bov, tuner toys oil line kit, rc 310 injectors. The setup has probably 500 miles on it. I'll take detailed pics tonight. I haven't been driving it because I took it to a guy to replace the clutch and he replaced the rear main seal which has starting leaking. Let me know.

Flip, I have a Bosch plastic BOV, that you cna have for free. It doesn't make the cool sound, but after all the sound is not the purpose behind a BOV...

150 for an hf is a really pricy, they go for max 50 bucks shipped on ebay. i have a guy possibly coming for everything but the rc310cc's tomorrow. I will hold the rc310cc's for you.

I got the piping right here here-http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SRE-Civic-Turbo-Intercooler-Piping-fits-HKS-SSQV_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ017QQite mZ270123431108QQrdZ1

$150 is waaaaay too much for an HF mani. I'm taking my HF mani off this weekend. If you want to pay shipping you can have it. It has aDSM adapter platebut it's for a 14b/tdo5h. Dont know if the t25 is the same flange. But if you were willing to pay $150 for a manifold, get a good one. It's a pretty important piece.

Also have an ebay BOV layin around you can have for like 20 bucks.

Look around on ebay for a boost gauge that you like. Autometer isn't the only option.I got mine out of a Skyline for 30 bucks.

wow, alright, repsone to everyone ;)

SE_2i remmeber reading your thread, but i think it was for a B series? And hit me up with some prices

Riceburner if everything goes okay with the compression test Tuesday, i'll get them injectors from you. Thanks for holding them man, and thanks for that link.

Sniper do you think i could find an adapter plate for the T25 online somewhere? If so i'll take the manifold off your hands, as well as the BOV. And i'll look around ebay for a new gauge too.

Gene thanks for the offer, but i think i'll get Snipers or just a new ebay one, gotta have the noise bro ;)

but again, wish me luck on the compression test, if that goes okay, we'll go from there

forgot to add also, APR Headstuds and the spakr plugs one step colder (correct?).

Also have a question about the headstuds, i've never dealt with removing my valve cover/head before ,and i know you dont necesarrily need to remove the head when you put the new headstuds in, but do i need a new head gasket? I've never worked on anything like that before, so any help with that would be awesome, and i know there are differnet brands of head gaskets, so IF i do have replcae the head gasket, should i go OEM or another brand?

Yes, you def want a colder spark plug. I called NGK and they told me what plug to get (BKR7E) call them up and ask them about your D. Also i'm almost positive that you need a new gasket when you remove your head so go with a Cometic head gasket. Ihave one and it cost me 98.00 w/shipping.They are a very popular brand for boosted honda's.

i would recommend oem, they have proven even on high hp cars

anyone got a DIY of replacing a head gasket/head studs on a Civic?

Yes, my Haynes manual has a DIY on how to do a headgasket:-D You want to get one too. Also look into an insulating intake manifold gasket like that one made by hondata.






P.S.: ricer [sm=bling.gif]

ORIGINAL: Roto

P.S.: ricer [sm=bling.gif]


oh man havent heard that from you in a while hahaha

so where should i get my Haynes manual from?

EDITED to avoid humiliation :eek:haha

and you are trying to turbo your car? Man I can't wait to bust out laughing when something blows up:-D Seriously go to any parts store and get a chilton's or Haynes manual:-D

haha edited to avoid humiliation, but the reason i was trying to have a mellow boost setup was so i didnt have to deal with internals/rebuilding at all. Headstuds i think i could handle, and i know how an engine worksi just dont know the correct terminology for the parts, thats all man.

I'll get a manual, and i've researeched my ass off on turbo kits, i wrote a freaking 12 page paper about it for a class ;)just got no clue about inernals

My turbo kit is for a d-series.

oh sh*t nvm, i read "trade for a b20" and thought it meant "made for"

i'll PM ya about it ;)

Lol, flip. You dumb ass, didnt you know tony has his full kit for sale? Im sure he would hook you up since its your first get up

ORIGINAL: Remmy

Lol, flip. You dumb ass




Bwaahahhaahaha. On another note why don't you do valve lash as part of your preparation for turbo. It has to be done from time to time and while doing it you'll get familiar with what's under the valve cover and where the bolts are.

haha Rem i know he does man, i've talked to him about it, he said he gave me a price, and we're both in Michigan so i could go pick it up from him, i just dont have all the money right now, and i know he wants to get rid of it [&:]thats why piecing together a kit would work better, and Tony said he didnt really wanna part it out either, which kinda sucks.

Gene, wtf is valve lash? I've never even heard of that before. The definiton i found was:

VALVE LASH:
This is the clearance between the base circle of the camshaft lobe and the camshaft follower or tappet.
simpler terms?EDITED: I sent you information via pm for a reason ;)

adjusting the cleatance between the valve/rocker/cam lobe is necessary at higher milage.

compression test done today!

all the cylinders were at 115, although my first cylinder took a little longer to get up there. It initially read 80 then went up to 115, the guy that was doing the test said it was because of my rings, but 115 is still good for an engine with 140K on it. He also said runnin a T25 turbo at 8 PSI should be okay on my engine, but anything more and it'd probably blow.

T25 turbos are fairly small turbos correct? He asked how big it was, like a specific number (maybe in cc?) but i didnt know. Can anyone help me out there?

Overall the guy siad my engine was doing really good though, just watch out for the first cylinder, but a fairly mild turbo setup like the one i got planned should be just fine :)

115 seems low, on my b7 i was up around 175 across the board and on my b8 i was at 150 across the board. Was the engine hot and WOT when he did the test

Ordered a T25 :)$80 shipped from a guy off Turbod16.com, says it's got no shaft play. Thanks for the find Tyler ;):D

Here she is:

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2151000-2151999/2151457_21_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/3/web/2151000-2151999/2151457_22_full.jpg

You guys are gonna havta help me with which lines connect to where, there's quite a few nipples coming off of this thing.

hmmm....looks like you're the lucky owner of the same turbocharger as I have. You see those two larger nipples on the mid-section? You will take your throttle body coolant line and route it through there instead of the throttle body.

^ is one the inlet and one the oulet of for the coolant line? And if so, after the coolant line goes through the turbo, do i run the outlet one back to the throttle body?

dude, just save up for tony's setup, you will save yourself SO MANY HEADACHES

90% of the work is already done for you

i wont have enough til the end of this summer, that T25 is already on its wya though [&:]beleive me, i want Tonys kit really bad, its basically the same thing i'm gonna be running, i just dont have all the money rihgt now andi k now he wants to get rid of it

so got a few questions picking out some more parts for my kit. For my oil line kit:

http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-uni.shtml

Says theres a "Universal T25" kit, will that work? And how about the price?

What it says about the oil line kit: T25 kit uses a 7/16 thread size for the oil inlet. The drain flange from center to center mounting bolts measures 44mm.

So will the 7/16 thread inlet work with.....this oil sandwich adapter i plan on using for my oil feed: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-FILTER-SANDWICH-ADAPTER-HONDA-CIVIC-ACCORD-S2000_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46100QQihZ015QQit emZ250127369282QQrdZ1

I realize its generic, so if you guys think it'll fail let me know. And it'd also be helpful if you would recommend a better one.

And i remember a while back i reocmmended somebody against an Ebay Intercooler, but Sniper came on an corrected me, saying that the ebay FMIC's would do the job just fine. So with that, i was looking and came across: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FMIC-INTERCOOLER-INTEGRA-CIVIC-BMWE36-E30-323-325-328_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ009QQitem Z190122511626QQrdZ1

I called this business i found on HomeMadeTurbo.com and they recommended for EK's a size very similar to that one's ^ (Core Size 21"x5.5"X2.5", Overall Size 28"x5.5"x2.5") Size and quality look okay? Or do you think its too big, or the quality might fail me somehow?

ORIGINAL: mxs

dude, just save up for tony's setup, you will save yourself SO MANY HEADACHES

90% of the work is already done for you

But those headaches are making him learn more:D

i would be worried bout your stock rods cause i have a buddy that has blown up two motors on stock rods it runs fine then then he'll turn up the boost to bout 8 psi n all of a sudden boom rod out the back of the block and that on a d16z6.

ORIGINAL: LarsonSi_0091

i would be worried bout your stock rods cause i have a buddy that has blown up two motors on stock rods it runs fine then then he'll turn up the boost to bout 8 psi n all of a sudden boom rod out the back of the block and that on a d16z6.


You're buddy sucks

yea atleast im doing it the correct way and not like him building the whole motor up rods pistions everything

headeaches are what you look back on and laugh when you are drivin your car

ORIGINAL: LarsonSi_0091

yea atleast im doing it the correct way and not like him building the whole motor up rods pistions everything

Is that why you sold your car?

no last fall i got a speeding and street ticket with that car and icouldnt afford insurance, car payment, rent and everything all in one month. just driving the car alone was gonna be almost $600 dollars a month but anyway. im building a d16z6 for my 91 crx si. its pretty much the same build as Sov's.

Tony, Dustin, Gene, Sniper, Sov, anyone have any answers for these questiosn?

For my oil line kit: http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-uni.shtml (http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/oil-uni.shtml)

Says theres a "Universal T25" kit, will that work? And how about the price?

What it says about the oil line kit: T25 kit uses a 7/16 thread size for the oil inlet. The drain flange from center to center mounting bolts measures 44mm.

So will the 7/16 thread inlet work with.....this oil sandwich adapter i plan on using for my oil feed: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-FILTER-SANDWICH-ADAPTER-HONDA-CIVIC-ACCORD-S2000_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46100QQihZ015QQit emZ250127369282QQrdZ1 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OIL-FILTER-SANDWICH-ADAPTER-HONDA-CIVIC-ACCORD-S2000_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46100QQihZ015QQit emZ250127369282QQrdZ1)

I realize its generic, so if you guys think it'll fail let me know. And it'd also be helpful if you would recommend a better one.

And i remember a while back i reocmmended somebody against an Ebay Intercooler, but Sniper came on an corrected me, saying that the ebay FMIC's would do the job just fine. So with that, i was looking and came across: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FMIC-INTERCOOLER-INTEGRA-CIVIC-BMWE36-E30-323-325-328_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ009QQitem Z190122511626QQrdZ1 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FMIC-INTERCOOLER-INTEGRA-CIVIC-BMWE36-E30-323-325-328_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ009QQitem Z190122511626QQrdZ1)

I called this business (http://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_433067/mpage_2/key_/tm.htm#) i found on HomeMadeTurbo.com and they recommended for EK's a size very similar to that one's ^ (Core Size 21"x5.5"X2.5", Overall Size 28"x5.5"x2.5") Size and quality look okay? Or do you think its too big, or the quality might fail me somehow?

Oh and btw i got my T25 in the mail, damn this thing is ALOT heavier than i thoguht lol Anyway, there a nipple coming out of the compressor housing and a nipple on the wastegate, so i just connect a vacuum tube between these two lines?

There are also 4 nipples on the area between the compressor/exhaust housings. I was talking to Gene and he said there is an oil inlet/outlet and a coolant line intlet/outlet. Sound correct? I'll take pictures when i stop being lazy to explain better, and maybe you guys could also direct me as to which lines are which. So for these, i use the sandwich adapter for my inlet, tap into my oil pan and run a line to that for my outlet, and then i was talking toGene and he also said that i use the coolant line off the TB for the intlet/outlets of the turbo. Again, is this correct?

Thanks so much you guys, i wouldnt even be able to consider htis project with ya ;):)

bumpin this guy up, need some answers guys ;)

don't get an ebay BOV

unless its a name brand genuine one^^^

^ haha. good call.

random, but just throwing this out there: http://www.turbosmart.com.au/index.php?s=faq

Page not found My05, but thanks anyway you guys, i actaully read an ImportTuner article about hte difference btween legit (GReddy, HKS, etc) BOVs and ebay BOVs, and the ebay ones were just crap compared to the real stuff, i'll look around though.

k, so i finally got some pictures up of the turbo. The nipples are all numbers 1 - 7, i need your guys helping me figure out which ones go to which.

http://www.hondacivicforum.com/upfiles/9586/asppg_Xd479777622.jpg

http://www.hondacivicforum.com/upfiles/9586/asppg_Bk216580659.jpg

So okay....looking at this thing....

-1 is a nipple that has a piece of metal bent over it, like its been blocked off. Whats this for?
-2 is a nipple coming off the wastegate, that will connect to nipple 4, the one coming off the intake/compressor housing, correct?
-3 is a big one, its fairly close to the little threaded nipple (number 6), which seems to be the oil inlet since its threaded. Does this seem right? And if so, would that make 3 the oil drain line sinec its so close to the oil inlet?
- 4 intake/compressor housing, read up there ^
- 5, kind of connect to the wastegate, is a larger one, possibly one of the coolant lines?
- 6, only threaded nipple, read #3 ^
- 7 is the biggest nipple coming off of the turbo, you can see it in the second picture well. Again, guessing maybe this ia coolant line?

I think that wraps things up with the nipples, lol help me out the best you can guys!

and he also sent me this:

http://www.hondacivicforum.com/upfiles/9586/asppg_Dx471758407.jpg

no idea what it is, theres a bracket for it to be mounted somewhere, and also that line right below it is a line that came when the guy shipped it to me, anyone have any idea what either the line or the thing (i dont even know what to call it lol)is for?

that looks like a chrysler turbo

water and oil cooled

yea Gene (Roto) said its gonna need both oil and coolant lines, the guy said he took it out of a Ford Probe (its a T25 still). Said i could use the inlet/outlet coolant lines off of my throttle body, sound good?

6- is oil feed
4-cap it off
2-vacuum source/wastegate
7-looks like oil return
5-coolent
3-coolent

that would be my guess

i thoguht since it was internally gated you would run a vacuum line between 2 and 4??

Thanks for the help thoguh Dustin, lol nobody else will realy help

you can. but i would just run a vacuum line from the wastegate to the intake manifold. The compressor housing one i would just cap off or T that into the wastegate, there really isnt gonna be any vacuum in the turbo unless you get some turbo surge for some reason.

Wow lol, that's a mess.

1) Vacuum source via exhaust. You COULD use this for your catchcan, not really a big deal though.
2) Wastegate vacuum feed.
3) Coolant Feed
4) Boost/Vacuum pressure for wastegate. I'd personally just block this off and take the reading from the IM like riceburner said.
5) Coolant Drain
6) Oil Feed
7) Oil Drain

That's my stab at it, don't know what turbo that is either as I don't see any part numbers.

The little gizmo at the bottom looks to be a stock boost controller unit that you wouldn't use.

ORIGINAL: riceburner700

you can. but i would just run a vacuum line from the wastegate to the intake manifold. The compressor housing one i would just cap off or T that into the wastegate, there really isnt gonna be any vacuum in the turbo unless you get some turbo surge for some reason.


would there be a digram explaing what line is the vacuum line for the IM in a manual that im going to get? And should i just T it off and run the new line to the wastegate? And i'm assuming you're saying that because it will give the most accurate measurement of the PSI im running since the air has alreayd gone through all the charge piping/FMIC and everything? (just trying to understand the logic behind it)

Thanks Sov, helps alot ;)

the turbo has a part # on it, i'll look at it and post it up tonight for you that are interested

just get one of those golden eagle vacuum blocks and plug all of your vacuum lines into it. will save you so many t-taps

yea i was just gonna ask, would that be the best source for the vaccum mani sinec its the most accurate measure of the PSI actaully going into my engine? It'd give an acurate reading for both my boost gauge and my wastegate, right?

And the manual i'm gonna get it will have a diagram right?

Brake Booster Vac Line.

^ thats what i've heard, but it seems like hte IM is the closest thing to the engine, which will give me the most accurate PSI reading since the air has already traveled through the charge pipin and intercooler, so any PSI that was lost wont be counted.

Anyone else help me out with anything?

You pretty much got it right.

Brake booster line feeds directly off the IM, so at the same time so does the vacuum block. They give great readings, I'm very happy with mine and it cleans things up a lot.

Flip, seriously... http://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_401724/tm.htm

didnt know the brake booster line fed right off of the IM or else i wouldnt have asked the question....

Tony you have any input as to what nipples go where off of the turbo?

Part # on the turbo:

Turbo Spec: VJ11 8908
Serial No. RHB5 07 461A
Parts No. F220 R

If i dont go downstate to Tony's (Forty's) tuner, i think i'm going to go to http://www.commercialtruck.net/dyno.htm

Look legit to you guys? The only reason i would go is because its closer (by atleast 3 hours)

also, i'd REALLY like to know how everybody ran their charge piping. I know everyone says "be creative with it", i but i for real dont see how to do it. Pictures would be sick, and also any other of you turbo guys that can help with "which line goes where" on page 3, thatd be awesome.

This is NOT a T25 turbo. It's an IHI VJ11...a mazda turbocharger.

sweet......so.................i actaully googled F220 and saw a buncha Maza forums coming up......so.....what form here? Will i be able to find an HF adapter plate for it?

EDIT: researched a bit, figured out that its still smaller than a T28, spools fairly quickly, eveyrbdoy seems to refer to it as a small turbo, which is ahwat i want. Apparently its internally gated at 8 PSI stock, which is what i'll be running, so i think that should be good. Other forums say that its a generally reliable turbo, and apparently it came out old MX6's and old Probes. This one was out of a Probe. Anyone have anymore info on my VJ11? And again, is this adapter plate gonna be possible to find?

bumpin this up for info/advice/input by anybody about this thread

Flip, what is your timeline? There is a good chance I will be able to fabricate an adapter for you at a later date.

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

If i dont go downstate to Tony's (Forty's) tuner, i think i'm going to go to http://www.commercialtruck.net/dyno.htm



My tuner just quit tuning a couple weeks ago..

ORIGINAL: Forty04

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

If i dont go downstate to Tony's (Forty's) tuner, i think i'm going to go to http://www.commercialtruck.net/dyno.htm



My tuner just quit tuning a couple weeks ago..


Well... that kinda explains a lot... [&:]

ORIGINAL: Forty04

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

If i dont go downstate to Tony's (Forty's) tuner, i think i'm going to go to http://www.commercialtruck.net/dyno.htm



My tuner just quit tuning a couple weeks ago..


sh*t.....well Wisconsin it is then

ORIGINAL: Roto

Flip, what is your timeline? There is a good chance I will be able to fabricate an adapter for you at a later date.


I've got quite a bit of time, the flange on the FJ11 is really simple actually, you can see it in this picture:

http://www.hondacivicforum.com/upfiles/9586/asppg_Xd479777622.jpg

so if you could, thatd be sick, you got a price?

BTW i'm sending out a money order tomorrowfor riceburner700's RC310 injectors.

Still waiting for a reply from StreetSniper, i sent him $45 for his HF mani and BOV, but now he cant sell his mani, but he's still giving me his BOV. He said he'd refund the majority of my money and just ship me the BOV, but i have yet to see either the BOV or the refund via PayPal. Anyway that has contact with him regularly, thatd be sick if you could ask him whats up with that.....

got some questions about charge piping....what happens to the IAT sensor? Do you just need to drill a hole and put the grommet in there on the new charge piping? And also what happens to the crankcase ventilator? Should i just put a valve cover breather on there and call it a day?

And not only the IAT sensor, but what about both o2 sensors? Shoudl i just inclip the harnesses and remove the sesnors? And i know i'd pull a CEL becasue of revmoing any sesnsors, but does the chipped ECU take care of all the CEL codes i'd get?

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

i think i'm going to go to http://www.commercialtruck.net/dyno.htm
Look legit to you guys?


you need to find out who their tuner is and what software they can use, it doesn't look Honda-oriented at all

yea i noticed that as well [&:]Dyno-Pro seems to be the program the tune with, idk, i'll call them tomorrow i think

Marnie you know anything about those questions right up there ^^

The IAT sensor is in the intake manifold....at least it was on my D series engine. Oh by the way, Ive got that magnaflow muffler if you wanna buy it. I put a stocker back on.

drill ahose in the charge pipeing and with a rubber gormet put the IAT back in and the o2 senspr weded to be screwed into o2 sensor bungs welded to the dp

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/intake1.jpg

stole hte pic from addiction....but the little grommet and sensor you plug into your intake, does that just hang with the new charge piping?

^ lol are you drunk right now? I know you need an o2 bung on the donwpipe, but isnt that just plugged unless you are using a wideband?

yea take out the gormet from the origional drill a hole in ur new charge pipe and put it back there if not and u let it hang in ur bay its going to pick up the temp of the air around the engine which is going to throw things off

alright thanks

but for real, are you drunk? lol [sm=icon_cheers.gif]

yea AEM wideband sry man

sry man AEM wideband yea....not a bad thing to consider i know 275 sounds high for a gauge but gotta keep wyw on air fuels

IAT sensor in my engine bay is just sitting off to the side ziptied to my shock tower. I didn't have anywhere to put it and it hasn't made any kind of difference for me at all really.

The best way to do it is to get a B20 IAT sensor from a CRV and weld a fitting into your charge piping and screw it in with some hondabond or other sealant. If you can do it that way it would work the best.

O2 sensors are easy. Always put 2 bungs in your downpipe, one for the wideband and one for your stock primary O2 sensor. You can completely disable all of the O2 sensors but i'd suggest having the primary O2 still in.

ORIGINAL: SovXietday
IAT sensor in my engine bay is just sitting off to the side ziptied to my shock tower. I didn't have anywhere to put it and it hasn't made any kind of difference for me at all really.


I thought IAT was OBD2 and therefore deactivated anyway? I never put mine in, just had it sitting off the side like Sov.

alright i'll leave mine off to the side then, but again, the chipping of the ECU will take care of the CEL i'm gonna get form this?

And so i have two bungs in the bownpipe, one plugged for the wideband, and then one for my primary, so should i just unclip and remove teh secondary sensor?

i would just leave it in.

You "need" IAT with a MAP sensor, it is one of the factors in finding air density for the ECU. It needs to be PLUGGED in still, it will continue to read temperature but only of the engine bay. I find that my engine bay tends to get hotter than my charge piping anyway, so it's not a big deal and is only going to be off slightly.

Secondary O2 you can do what you want with, once you convert back to OBD1 the car will no longer recognize that sensor. Then on top of that you can turn off the O2 sensors all together.

ORIGINAL: SovXietday

You "need" IAT with a MAP sensor, it is one of the factors in finding air density for the ECU. It needs to be PLUGGED in still, it will continue to read temperature but only of the engine bay. I find that my engine bay tends to get hotter than my charge piping anyway, so it's not a big deal and is only going to be off slightly.


yea thats what i meant, just not plugged into a grommet in the charge piping, but still taking a reading

ORIGINAL: SovXietday
Secondary O2 you can do what you want with, once you convert back to OBD1 the car will no longer recognize that sensor. Then on top of that you can turn off the O2 sensors all together.



lol makes sense, i knew that too, just didnt even realize that i'd be OBD1 by the time this thing is done.

Any of you EK guys have any pictures of how you ran the charge piping from the turbo into the bumper? Cant really find a good route.....

under the rad support genious. Of you can cut a hole where the 5th gens have it.

from the turbo to the right side of intercooler ??? around washer fluid tank...some people just ditch it cuse this pipe hangs a lil low

Mine went directly under the washer fluid resevoir.

tonys gay so his would

ORIGINAL: dfdon

tonys gay so his would


I am teh awesome

Mine ran the same way Tony's did, dfdon is the odd man out.[8D]

Then going back to the throttle body I rust ran up through the hole that the stock intake box went through (like a cold air only for boost yo!)

^ yea i think its pretty convenient how that hole is there, just didnt know hwo to go from the turbo to the inlet side of the FMIC

so was Gene correct in telling me that i should use the coolant inlet/outlet lines from the TB for the turbo, just re-route them through the turbo?

and Tony and dfdon, idk if either of you guys have taken a shot at telling me which lines go where on my turbo? Any input is HIGHLY appreciated, still tryin to learn before the install takes place

and Gene, you have any idea if you'll be able to make an adapter plate?

I don't know that turbo, and I never ran any water lines to mine so I'm not going to be much help in that department.

Also, heres an alternative to using the "cai hole." My charging piping didn't allow me to run it through the hole, but honestly, I think this looks cleaner anyway.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a209/Forty04/EngineBayTopAngle-1.jpg

don't know yet. may be yes, may be no, Depends on whether I get this one tool I want or not.

alright Gene, thatd be cool if you could keep my updated

and Tony, thanks for the picture. For your vac manifold, did you run your brake booster line right to the vac mani, and then supply your IM with a vac line right off of the vac mani? Is that what i'm seeing? And i agree that that that looks clean (the chrage piping), i think i'll have to figure it out once everything is mounted and i'm actaully running the piping, but thanks for the idea man :)

ok...for the next six or so months that would be a no. I don't have enough spare cash to get the tool.

Flip if your planning on coming to wisconsin for a tune i would look these guys up or atleast give them a call ive heard some pretty good feedback bout them its in milwaukee this is where im taking my car to get tuned.....http://www.beeyondeng.com/

ORIGINAL: LarsonSi_0091

Flip if your planning on coming to wisconsin for a tune i would look these guys up or atleast give them a call ive heard some pretty good feedback bout them its in milwaukee this is where im taking my car to get tuned.....http://www.beeyondeng.com/


im from WI too. Arent they located in milwaukee? ive heard from mixed feedback, unless it was another shop.

yea i'm actually in Upper Michigan, like 2 or 3 hours out of Wisconsin, so that would be quicker than downstate actaully, so thanks for the ideas you guys.

and Gene thanks anyway, once i get the mani and see what the plate looks like i think i might be able to have one of my freinds makin somethin for me out at a metal shop near me, and i found a DIY of making your own turbo adatper plate, so i'll prolly use that

I dont mean to start controversy in the IC piping debate but if you think about air flow (with exhaust or IC piping) you want as few bends and as light of bends as possible to get optimal flow. With forty's piping you are getting alot moretight bends than if you run your IC piping through the hole where the stock airbox was. A good way to tell which is better is to add up the total degrees of all the bends needed between 2 givenpoints.

With my piping I have a 90, 45, 45 and one last 45 to the thottle body, thats a total of 225* of bends. With fortys piping he has a 180, 90, 45 and a 90 to the throttle body, thats a total of 405* of bends. This is just how I make sense of it. You can do it either way if you prefer the look of one over the other.

Pic of how I ran mine.
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/red2000si/turbo%20project/IMG_1359-1.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/red2000si/turbo%20project/IMG_1362-1.jpg
http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w92/red2000si/IMG_1742.jpg

^ REALLY helpful pics, and i think everyone would agree that the less bends you have the better, thanks alot man

ORIGINAL: red2000Si

I dont mean to start controversy in the IC piping debate but if you think about air flow (with exhaust or IC piping) you want as few bends and as light of bends as possible to get optimal flow. With forty's piping you are getting alot moretight bends than if you run your IC piping through the hole where the stock airbox was. A good way to tell which is better is to add up the total degrees of all the bends needed between 2 givenpoints.

With my piping I have a 90, 45, 45 and one last 45 to the thottle body, thats a total of 225* of bends. With fortys piping he has a 180, 90, 45 and a 90 to the throttle body, thats a total of 405* of bends. This is just how I make sense of it. You can do it either way if you prefer the look of one over the other.





With the average mildly boosted d-series, it's not going to matter;). It's when you start getting into big numbers and trying to mazximize your setup's potential that you'd want to start worring about bends.

so are there couplers that can go from a small inlet to a large opening? My filter has a way bigger opening then the turbo inlet, and the compressor housing outlet (that will connect to my charge piping) is way smaller than like 2.5", i know its dumb, but i just have to ask.....

i got my BOV and boost gauge in the mail yesterday. Got some quuestions about the BOV, i think im gonna make a little video so you guys can see what my questions are

Yeah they are called reducers. Go to siliconeintakes.com. They have by far the best prices on reducers and t-bolt clamps and you can get pretty much whatever size reducers you need.

cool, thanks for the link man

got RC 310 injecotrs from Riceburner700 in the mail today, thanks alot bro ;)

HF manifold is on the way, next will be my intercooler, then GReddy turbo timer/harness, this projects coming along will :)

your welcome, there in damn good shape, bet you though you were getting a tial wasteagete at first lol

lol the box they came in? I did notice they were like in perfect condition, not even used :)

so i'm still kinda stumped as to what im going to do for tuning....i cant find anywhere close that will tune my car or anything, i almost want to do it myself (Sov has kinda inspired me), but that will be a whole other project.....

well found a tuner than 7 - 8 hours away, getting down there its just about impossible to avoid 70 MPH highways, so idk, i think thatd be way hard to do with a basemap, maybe i could tow it on a trailer, think thats my best bet?

BTW they tune with Hondata at $150 an hour [&:]seems kinda pricey, but idk

depends how many hours it takes right? i thought you could stay out of boost? i thought there was a whole thread on it. I forget

yea u can, but its like slow acceleration in each gear and idk, i know its possible but it might get old real quick, and you can always accidently press the gas too hard (i imagine?)

that is pricey but if they are good and your only choice...gotta do it i guess. Sounds like your getting close congrats

you don't need Hondata, that's just more hardware you have to buy. see if they can use Crome, that's less of an investment on your end

yet hondata is more reliable 7 hours of no boost on a basemap is gonna be a headache

Someone on here was tuning with crome, and they said eff it and acctually made the switch to a Hondata

that would be sov

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720
so i'm still kinda stumped as to what im going to do for tuning....i cant find anywhere close that will tune my car or anything, i almost want to do it myself (Sov has kinda inspired me), but that will be a whole other project.....


Tuning your own car gets very expensive very fast, let's not get into the headaches and the simple fact that it is not easy at all, especially when you start tuning other people's cars. I still need to buy another wideband ($300), gah.

Tuning your own car however is extremely rewarding, but it's not for everyone. You really need to be dedicated, it is certainly a challenge. If you or anyone else wants to get into tuning and have questions, just let me know I'll do what I can to answer them or at least point you in the right direction.

I switched to Hondata because I'm planning on making a lot of power. For simple setups, Crome is more than good enough to handle it, Crome is also kind of buggy and often times frustrating to use, but if you're not a tuner than you don't need to deal with this making it a good choice. Hondata is great for me, I just plug in my laptop and I have full communication with my ECU. I can make changes and see results instantly, and I get all of the feedback from the ECU that I could possibly want. It's very straight forward, has a few advancements that Crome lacks (but you need to have a laptop to control them anyway), and overall is a sturdier program that doesn't rely on a bunch of people working out of their own will.

It really is up to you Flip, but I'd suggest just going with Crome and letting your tuner deal with it.

Only big place I know of in Michigan for tuning is Godspeed

-24788 Crestview Court
-Farmington Hills, MI 48335
-http://www.tuningfactoryinc.com (http://www.tuningfactoryinc.com/)
-Phone: (248) 477-0700
-Fax: (248) 477-0701
-Power Excel Dealer and Tuner of Power FC, Hydra, Hondata, AEM EMS, Turbo XS, and several other managment systems

Otherwise it may not be a bad idea to log onto H-T and ask if anyone knows of any smaller name companies that are capable of tuning Crome that are closer to your area.:)

150 an hr for tuning is commin hear, thats about what everybody charges these days

there are a couple of places outside of detriot that you can go to. there is the tuning factory and there is another guy i know that just opened up his own place.

k, got lots of responses here;)

Fiasco, yea $150 an hour seems pricey, but its really all i got...

MXS i know that i dont need Hondata, but its really all that is available.....

Sov thanks for the response man, that shop you listed is actaully tin the same town as the shop i called (the $150 an hour w/ Hondata place). As of right now, thast where im gonna be going, i talked to them on the phone and they seemed really cool, i dont think i'm gonna drive on a basemap though, prolly just trailer my car down there.....

And by "just go with Crome", how would i go about doing that if the tuner only uses Hondata? Wouldnt i just let them hook up their laptop/wideband and tune with the program they have? I definiteyl would go with Crome if i found a shop that tuned with it, but i beleive Hondata is all i have available

Tyler you have any info on the guy that just opened his place? I'd be intersted to know what program he uses, how much he charges and where he's located at, im very open for suggestions.

Well Hondata surely isn't going to hurt you in the slightest, but I do think it's a little overkill for your setup. However you will have all of it's features and if you can get yourself a laptop you'd have datalogging and everything that you could possibly want.:)

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

I definiteyl would go with Crome if i found a shop that tuned with it, but i beleive Hondata is all i have available


you"believe" -- or you know for sure? did you actually ask? I have a hard time believing that they ONLY use Hondata

it would seem anyone apt enough to tune with hondata would be able to use crome as well

yea i actualyl asked them and they said they have Hondata, thats what they use for all the Hondas they tune. I could call them back and ask about other programs, and Fiasco i'm sure they're able to tune with Crome, maybe they just dont have the progrma. Idk, i'll call them back.

And Sov, are you saying that once i get tuned once with Hondata, i can tune it myself a laptop with Hondata, all the wiring/cords and a wideband and tune from there? Like having them tune first would put me on the right track?

gettin so close bro im excitied for ya!

im gettin there....i got a BUNCHA **** to sell, im gonna make a thread on HCF and also go crazy on ebay, prolly about $700 worth of stuff, that'll move the project along nicely;)

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

yea i actualyl asked them and they said they have Hondata, thats what they use for all the Hondas they tune. I could call them back and ask about other programs, and Fiasco i'm sure they're able to tune with Crome, maybe they just dont have the progrma. Idk, i'll call them back.

And Sov, are you saying that once i get tuned once with Hondata, i can tune it myself a laptop with Hondata, all the wiring/cords and a wideband and tune from there? Like having them tune first would put me on the right track?



What I'm saying is that there are features in Hondata such as launch control, rev limiters, gear compensations, nitrous control, etc etc etc. You wouldn't necessarily need to touch the actual tune, but you can tweak things at the track and have all the datalogging so you know exactly what the car is doing all the time.

ORIGINAL: SovXietday

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

yea i actualyl asked them and they said they have Hondata, thats what they use for all the Hondas they tune. I could call them back and ask about other programs, and Fiasco i'm sure they're able to tune with Crome, maybe they just dont have the progrma. Idk, i'll call them back.

And Sov, are you saying that once i get tuned once with Hondata, i can tune it myself a laptop with Hondata, all the wiring/cords and a wideband and tune from there? Like having them tune first would put me on the right track?



What I'm saying is that there are features in Hondata such as launch control, rev limiters, gear compensations, nitrous control, etc etc etc. You wouldn't necessarily need to touch the actual tune, but you can tweak things at the track and have all the datalogging so you know exactly what the car is doing all the time.


So why have you been on here to much lately?[8D]

datalogging would be sick, and yeah, Hondata definitely would hurt anything, just kinda more than i need, but w/e, i wotn complain;):)

tuning factory is located in farmington hills, mi and i heard its a pretty good shop
http://www.tuningfactoryinc.com/

here is jan's shop. he has been tuning honda's for a while as well. i hope this helps ya out a bit
http://speedindustry.biz/home.html

thanks Tyler

looking at this page though....http://speedindustry.biz/fees.html (http://speedindustry.biz/fees.html)
it looks like its $35 for widbeand hookup, $25 for initial setup, and then $100 for 3 runs for them to tune with Hondata, correct? I mean thats what im getting out of it, you guys? Cuz it does say $400 for a full dyno tune with any of hte "above mentioned prograsm" (which includes Hondata). Idk, what do u gu ys think?

go with hondata s100, you wont be dissapointed

We currently tune the following:

AEM (coming soon)
Utec
Hydra
Any Subaru Reflash (Open source, EcuTek, Cobb)
Xede
Hondata

Thats from that website, Tuning Facotry is under construction, and the other tuner i found just said Hondata, not specifically if it was Hondata s100

any of the hondatas you will be impressed and happy with, just depends on what all you want to spend

im pretty sure any Hondata is gonna be overkill for what i need, but again, its all thast avaiable and its not gonna hurt to have some extras;) just might cost a little bit extra....[&:]

got HF manifold in the mail today! Heres a picture of eveyrthing i've got so far (turbo, injectors, BOV, boost gauge, and manifold, also have the AEM filter alreayd but its on my car)

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/CIMG2423.jpg

okay, and i really need help with how this turbo mounts to hte manifold....heres some pictures. The way i thoguht itw as supposed to go, the charge piping outlet is facing upwards, which i have never seeen a turbo setup like that, so the other way its hooked up to a traingular flange, which will be a pain in the ass to get ahold of, but idk, what do you guys think? Also, you can see hte in the picture, one way puts the charge piping right up against the manifold, so its not even possible [&:]confusion, and i feel like a noob, this sucks :(

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/CIMG2420.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/CIMG2421.jpg
^ charge piping against manifold :eek:^

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/CIMG2419.jpg

and the triangle flange [&:]

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/CIMG2422.jpg

help!

The triangle flange where the exhaust leaves the turbine, you don't want to bolt it up to that.

You can clock the compressor housing around, see the bolts on the side of it? Loosen them up, smack it with a hammer and it should turn around to point where you need it to.

smack my turbo with a hammer :(and thats what i thoguht (about the triangle flange being hte exit), but i've just never seen charge piping some up towrads the manifold.....okay so i can turn the whole compressor housing upside down? Which bolts do i need to loosen? The ones that you can see in the last picture?

thanks alot Sov :)

bolts in picture #3 on the side of the compressor housing.

k thanks Gene

So when do you think you are going to start installing this? Your posting pictures of the install right? ;)

lol oh you can bet your ass Mobsta :)im not really gonna start installing it until i get everything for the kit together. Could maybe mount the intercooler, install some gauges and some other little things, but mostly its all gonna go on at the same time. Its coming together quickly thouhg, i'll keep this thing updated, dont worry

im phyched (sp)

psyched johnny, psyched.;)

lol Johnny you think you are? Cant wait hear that BOV[8D] althgouh i need some freaking help, the BOV is cofusing as to how you install it on the adapter plate it came with, thres no really way to lock it in place, but i think i'm gonna post of an I NEED HELP video and have you guys help me out

so while i'm here, intercooler and oil line kit are in the mail, next will be oil sandwich adapter and triple pillar pod (also gonna get a tach and voltmeter), and alos got a question....

Do i need an oil restrictor? I've heard mixed opinions on it, what do you guys think? It seems like i'd rather supply to much fuel rather thna not enough and ruin the shaft, kinda like the running rich vs. runnign lean, neitehr is preferable, but rather be rich than detonate ;) so, what should i do?

oil restrictor, yes/no?

"but rather be rich than detonate "
"rather supply to much fuel rather thna not enough "

Where do you plan on putting an oil restrictor to make it effect fuel? lol... Anyway I'm sure thats just a typo, I'm just messing with u. I think it would be ok as long as you are using a quality turbocharger and you are. You probably only NEED one if you are using an ssac turbo. Long story short imho, if you want to mess with one and want some added safty to keep your turbo in good shape then get it. If you don't want yet another thing to tinker with then you will be fine without it and don't get one.

ORIGINAL: Mr Mobsta Man

I think it would be ok as long as you are using a quality turbocharger and you are. You probably only NEED one if you are using an ssac turbo.

That's not true, my garrett gt28r needs an oil restrictor. From what i read online, most gt turbos need an oil restrictor.

I stand corrected.

Im not sure what turbo your going with but its pobably a good idea to use a restrictor. Too much oil going to your turbo will slowly eat away the seals. Turbos really dont need all that much oil lin them to be lubricated. It also makes it a little easier on your oil return setup cuz you wont be having to drain so much oil.

flip, might as well spend 15 bucks buy one and run your turbo at exactly the right oil pressure it needs.

i got a quick question? how in the heck do you drive that car up there in the U.P. when you get 6feet of lake effect... im always up there riding snowmobile all winter and i would NEVER own a civic with that much powdah! how do you manage?

maybe next summer when we both finish our builds we can head meet up in cheeseland and hit up the 1/4 mile for a weekend and see whos car gots more bawlz [8D] your only 300sum sum milesaway from twin cities

-3AN, -10AN return well routed, no restrictor needed.
-4AN, -10AN return well routed, .6 or larger restrictor

Journal bearing turbo's generally don't need a restrictor, but you can put a larger sized one on there if you want to be safe. I personally don't run one, haven't had any problems but I have -3AN feed.

my turbo is an FJ11 off of an old Probe, think i need one? (Sov i have no clue what those numbers mean, sorry bro:eek:)

Those are sizes of fittings and/or hoses. I'd suggest a different turbo I know those dont have much to them after 5000rpm on the dot in the Probe's and MX6's then again they are 2.2 liter engines but then again even if your engine is smaller the head breaths as good if not better than the Probe/MX6 head. A 14B or a 16G will suit your needs good. The T25(I am the one that sold Tony his kit/turbo) had a tendency to run out on the top end for me.

Marty your avatar pisses me off, I keep trying to smash the bug on my screen.

Flip, AN is hose size fittings, when you look into getting oil lines you'll probably run into them.

ORIGINAL: SovXietday

Marty your avatar pisses me off, I keep trying to smash the bug on my screen.


+1,000,000...it was fun hte first time I tried to squash it, now it is not fun...

ORIGINAL: SovXietday

Marty your avatar pisses me off, I keep trying to smash the bug on my screen.



Cool, that is what I was going for lol

LOL, I'm not even kidding. I live in the middle of the woods so my laptop screen always has stupid little bugs running around on it that I have to flick off. I started flicking at it and nothing happened and then I realized it was your avatar, wow. Haha!

I live in the middle of a city but I own 9 acres so the house is in the woods and I have the same problem lol. Good little gag though huh?

I don't live in the effen woods, but it still pisses me off :D

hey, back on topic[:@]:D haha Marty your avatar woulda made me mad if i didnt read the thread first lol

anyway, once i get my oil line kit i'll check the sizes of everything and let you guys know, then we can see if i'll need one or not.

Marty i ordered a T25 actually, it was off the classifieds at HomeMadeTurbo.com (i think), it just said plainly "T25 out of a Probe, no shaft play, $80 shipped", but come to find out (once i got it and read the serial #'s) it was a FJ11 [&:] i read alot about them and yea, i read they fall off ALOT at the top end, but i just want this thing up and running going with what i got, and from what i've read the FJ11 is fairly similar to the T25. The one thing that sucks is that i have NO IDEA what i'm gonna do about an adapter plate and i'm pretty sure you can find HF/T25 adapter plates around the internet, which kinda sucks.....

which brings me to my next question: WTF AM I GONNA DO ABOUT AN ADAPTER PLATE? i used to have a DIY saved on my computer, but lost it [&:] ideas??

crybaby....you'll made a cardboard template, trace both flanges on a piece of steel, cut it out with a torch, weld a pipe in between. Find a buddy who can weld and offer him a case of beer.

You're saying make two adapter plates, one for the manifold and one for hte turbo, weld a pipe in between them and bolt them on to each end, corrcect? Any recommendations for thickness of the steel plates? And where can i get steel plates at? (thanks alot btw Gene :))

if you pay for shipping i could send you anything you wanted for free, just give me the size plate you need from 1/8"-1/2", i got tons ofsteel lying around inscrap bins,youd haveto clean it up but it would bewell, free and all.

if you sent me the template i could even cut / weld everything for you ;)

id be glad to help out a fellow boosthead, and this goes to anyone, just let me know what you guys need fabbed and ill hook you up if its simple and uses small sheets of steel.

just send me an email with a pic of your template flip and ill let you know if i can help out. nothing better than helping a fellow boosthead save a couple bucks.

oh and what size pipe? just found a ton in my naighbors yard, and i could go steal you most anything you would need from the schools auto department scrap heep.

well i got 2.25" catback, so i'm guessing 2.25" would do it, thats so sick Didder, i'll takepictures of both the turbo flange and the HF flangeand put some dimensions on it tomorrow and email it to you. PM me your email address and also home address so i can send you some money for the shipping of the adapter plate (if this really happens :))

email is braddoerr0_0@hotmail.com

i could find you plenty of 2 1/4" piping [8D]

how thick of plate you gonna need? if its over 3/8" i will have to do some thievery from my dad lol, but no big deal we got a ton of it and its like 13C a pound when you buy 50 tons ata time. but for a flange i would think you would use like, 1/4" but if you want 3/8 i can hook u up with that too, ill just lay it out, torch the 2 flanges, clean em up with a wire wheel grinder, and then weld the pipe, on, take 20min tops.

but thats just me thinking its gonna look like this 8===8 am i correct? (the 8's are flanges not testicles the === would be the piping connecting the 2)

but!! you have to teach me how to do the custom interior gauges like your car, those are so freakin sick. is it hard to do? cuz if its not i might as well do it when i have the cluster out to put in my new cluster pod that holds myboost / oil pressure gauge

yea thats exactly what the adapater is gonna look like, excepti dont really want the 2.25" piping between the two platesto be long at all, maybe 1" or 2" at the most. I'll email you pics of the flanges tomorrow ;)oh and for the thickness, i'm thinking 1/4" should be fine, what do you guys think?

and as for the gauges, thank Addiction2bass man (http://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_433337/tm.htm) :)

Didder 3/8s is probably best for those flanges, just because they get so damn hot. You want the pipe between the two flanges to be as wide as the inlet to the turbo, so measure that. 2 1/4 is probably good for that turbo, hell 2" might be lol.

Flip you should just cut a template out of cardboard and mail it to him. ;)

i was just going by the size of my catback, but if the turbo inlet size is what counts, lets go by that. I'll measure it all tomrorow, and yea i could cut out a template with like poster board and mail it to you, Didder wanna PM me your address?

and Sov, how long should the pipe between the two flanges be? Think the 1" - 2" like i said would work?

Yeah just enough to get it away from the block and like 2" long is plenty fine.

k cool, Didder you gettin all this info? haha PM your addy man, i'm gonna make a template for you tomorrow

k so Adapter Plate templates are made on on their way to Didder :)gonna use about an inch or two of2" piping betwen the two plates, should work well, heres a pic of the templates:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/CIMG2581.jpg

i think they turned out alright :)

oh, and also (thanks to Sov), i unbolted my compressor housing, and (as scared as i was) hit it with a hammer and pivoted it around so the charge piping outlet is facing down, just how it should :)tightened it back up and we're all set to go. Just need to figure out which coolant line is inlet and hwich is outlet now.....

alright alright, got your piping ready, 2" of 2 1/4" Outside diameter, if you needed ID i dont care cuz its close enough ;)the piping is a little beat up but not bad, but thats because its been sitting behind a house for 20 years,it cleaned up real nice though so no worries.

get me those schematics and youll be set, gonna be fun working on my torching skillz, i cut straight lines 99% of time gonna be a little different cutting a round corner lol, but needless to say itll look top notchanyway.

glad to help ya out flip, if you need anything else just pm me

powdercoat it.......




just kidding

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

oh, and also (thanks to Sov), i unbolted my compressor housing, and (as scared as i was) hit it with a hammer and pivoted it around so the charge piping outlet is facing down, just how it should :)tightened it back up and we're all set to go. Just need to figure out which coolant line is inlet and hwich is outlet now.....


Haha, good stuff! Yeah take it from me, I wasn't too comfortable smacking my $550 turbo with a hammer either but it worked and it's just a bunch of metal anyway.

As far as coolant goes, shouldn't really matter honestly, it uses gravity just like the oil so just go with that.

^ i was actually thinking that......because the oil inlet is on top (where you screw the line onto) and the oil drain is on the bottom, and the coolant lines are the same way, one on top one on bottom, so i guess i'll use the top as inlet. And i'll also just block off the vaccum line coming off of the compressor housing and run a vaccuum line to the wastegate off the brake booster line :)now just need to work more and get some $$$$$$ [&:]

k, made a video for your guys cuz i ddnt feel like explainng the BOV assembly. So, help me out guys :D:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=DBJxDKn0stQ

might have the turn up the volume, and hopefully the quality is okay! (also, sorry about the raw footage, didnt feel like re-editing it haha)

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

k, made a video for your guys cuz i ddnt feel like explainng the BOV assembly. So, help me out guys :D:

http://youtube.com/watch?v=DBJxDKn0stQ

might have the turn up the volume, and hopefully the quality is okay! (also, sorry about the raw footage, didnt feel like re-editing it haha)





Mwaaahhahahahahahaaaa....seriously, I haven't laughed so hard in a while:-D

man, you know i felt like a douche bag making it, standing in my garage alone, talking to myself about a BOV, but for real, help me out :eek:

Gene i'm crying rihgt now because of u

come on, nobody can help me with the video?

Honestly flip, I have no idea how it works but since no one who acually knows is posting then I took a wild guess at it. I googled for a while and didn't find anything but today I was watching vids on youtube and someone had a vid of their engine bay with one installed and from what I saw I made this diagram, remember that this is just me guessing tho.

local://upfiles/12015/B4797E1E55CF4A33942395439FE51393.jpg

well the rings down fit inside the adapter plate, thats the only problem, but thanks for the reply and the diagram man, still trying to figure out [&:]

you say the ring do or dont fit inside the adapter plate?

they dont

i saw a picture of like my exact BOV installed/assembled today in ImportTuner, it had the rings inside the adapter plate, but i dont see how they did it [&:]

Are you sure you don't have to squeeze them then put them in, remeber they have to be in there snugg. The blow off valve is going to have some psi trying to push it out.

its cuz they are snap rings so your gonna have to get yourself a set of snap ring pliers that will squeez them together thats what the little holes are for on the ends.then you have to set your bov in the flangethen put the snap ring around the bov and squeez the ring together on the other side to fit it in between the base of the bov and the extra room in the flange. cuz i was looking at mine today and thats the way it looks to go in there.

also i was up in your neck of the woods last friday and you guys up there have some of the goofiest looking state cop cars. they got a sign on the hood of the car and a bubble light on the roof that was some of the funniest stuff i seen in a long time.

You should pm him your number, not post it up on a public forum for everyone to see. Just not a good idea.

lol ok sorry bout that one ill edit it quick.

ORIGINAL: LarsonSi_0091

also i was up in your neck of the woods last friday and you guys up there have some of the goofiest looking state cop cars. they got a sign on the hood of the car and a bubble light on the roof that was some of the funniest stuff i seen in a long time.


haha where at?

and thank you SO much. What did you mean by "thats why the holes are there"? Do the snap pliers go through the holes and squeeze together? Also, why are there two rings? Ones bigger than the other one

im not sure whys theres 2 of them but i think the bigger one will be the one that holds the bov to the flange. yea the pliers poke into the holes to squeez it together. the smaller might be used to hold that other fitting that you had over by the vaccum tees on your video.

alrgiht sick, i'll pick some up tomorrow and get that thing assembled :)

talked to some guys at CornBredTuning.com on AIM last night, i think i found my tuner :D:D:D $150 for 3 hours of street tune, not bad (plus $40 wideband hookup, but w/e)

BUT! it is a 9 hour drive with my Civic on a trailer [&:] that'll be an adventure......

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

talked to some guys at CornBredTuning.com on AIM last night, i think i found my tuner :D:D:D $150 for 3 hours of street tune, not bad (plus $40 wideband hookup, but w/e)

BUT! it is a 9 hour drive with my Civic on a trailer [&:] that'll be an adventure......


I'm sure you can find someone closer, there are amateur tuners all over the place who can at least get your car running so you can drive it safely to get dyno tuned.

You want me to move this into the project section?

yea flip theres places round here that will do it so you dont have to drive 9 hours like i was telling you last night theres one in milwaukee and one in madison that i could get you to.

damn, yea that cuts the trip down 4 hours, what program do they tune w/? Any links to their sites?

AEM EMS
-Hondata S300
-Apexi FC Commander
-Crome EFI
-Uberdata
-Accel DFI
-Haltech
thats from the one in milwaukee the have an old site but its beeyondeng.com and the one in madison is midwesthybrid.com they dont have much on their site either but i heard they do good work also

lol flip 9 hours from your house is to my tuner thats 1 block away... and you dont have to tow your car, go on you-tube and watch the idiots boosting with there basemaps, just dont boost and you will be fine, keep err in vacuum and just cruiiiiseee.

anyway, where are my hole dimensions? i got this adaptor plate all polished up sitting on a workplate without holes in it cuz i dont know where to put them lol.

hurry up flip

yeah Sov thatd be sick if you could move this to the Project section.

and Didder next time i'm home, prolly tomorow night, i'll take measurements alright? Sorry for hte wait man

lol, i dont care, its just gotta be drilled and i just pray thatitll fit, its really ugly, if it fits though ill be super happy, i torched in my reef sandles so i was jumping and flinching andit just wasnt good... but hey if it doesnt fit ill just go for round2!

If it doesn't fit, use the sledgehammer

Didder, got the measruemnts:

for the odd shaped plate, the center of all the holes are a 1/2" off of the corners of the plate

and for the square plate, all the holes are 3/8" off the corners of the plate

also i'm selling my RC310's for some DSM 450's. Dont totally understand the wiring/clips, so i'm gonna post a question about them.....

heres i made some measurments on the adapter plate picture, hopefully this helps

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/aP2.jpg

you can always make the plate holes a tad smaller and you could finish drilling it in order to ensure a proper fit.

^ yea i was thinking the same thing Didder, if there a bit too small or off a little bit i can drill them out myself

oh, a question: what am i gonna do for gaskets between the adapter plate and turbo/manifold?

may be not exactly this, but somethign similar... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fiber-GASKET-MATERIAL-Non-Asbestos_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ46099QQihZ008Q QitemZ180138229970QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V

you got a drill? drill it yourself lol, i dont wanna screw up the most critical part

wont take you long than 10 minutes to drill it all out so yea, just have fun drilling through 5/16 a/r plate [&:]

that **** is like twice as strong as regular steel, just get one hole drilled, bolt it up, and then find your 3 other holes and mark them and drill them...

repeat on other side, ill ship it out when i get back to work ;)and honestly ill be surprised if it works [:@], the damn pipe is huge, should have used 2" instead of 2 1/4" but owell we will see soon enough wont we

sick, yea i can drill it out, and having it here to go directly off of the flanges will be better. Thanks alot, how much you want for shipping?

ill figure it out, next week its so ghetto but whatever.

want a tip, dont weld / torch in a t-shirt and shorts and sandles, it hurts and it makes you suck at it. needed my dickies and redwings lawl

haha aight i'll remember that. So when should i be expecting hte plate?

a week?maybe a month? lol whenever i remember to ship it up to ya

aight man, whenvers good for you:)

bought college books today, i was saving up becuase my parents said i needed to buyall my own books, which is a good deal. So boguht them today,still got $400 in the bank, now all my money is going towards turbo :)today i ordered:

Golden Eagle Vacuum manifold (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=002&sspagename=STRK%3AME WN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=120128610384&rd=1)

Oil Sandwich Adapter (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&sspagename=STRK%3AME WN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=320144685393&rd=1)

and Triple Pillar Pod (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=015&sspagename=STRK%3AME WN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=250151953363&rd=1) to hold my tachomter, voltmeter (or oil pressure, havent decided)and boost gauge

i've got to re-order my intercooler and oil line kit, so those will be next :)cant wait to get this show on the road

also PMed Didder about shipping the adapter plate, if you read this man get back at me please!

your are going to have a hell of a time with that sandwich, but good luck with it.

what do u mean? The oil line kit i'm getting from Stealth is gonna be custom since they dont make one for hte VJ11 anyway, so i'll just give them the measuremnts of everything (including the sandwich adatper), i think it'll work out. You think there'll be trouble?

Flip, swap an EX cluster in for the tach and use the space for something like na EGT gauge. For the sandwich, why don't you just use an oil filter relocation kit?

^ i was thinking about that, theres a big chance i could do that, but as for hte oil filter relocation kit, idk even know what that is, and how would it help?

An oil filter relocation kit simply moves your filter from behind the block to a more convenient location. With a sandwich plate you'll have a hell of a time doing oilchanges, but with a relocation kit it'll be easy.

well once the sandwich comes i'm gonna see actually how hard it is to get the filter in and out and see whats up with that, i'll take pics and let you guys know.

help with coolant lines! On the front of the TB there are these two lines:

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/CIMG2640.jpg

tracing hte line back, this is where it connects (the smaller hose goes to the TB, and the larger hose goes to my block):

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/CIMG2641.jpg

are those coolant lines? Gene had told me to run these lines to my turbo, both feed and drain for my coolant lines. Look right to you guys?

and also, is the my brake booster line that i need to T into for my vac mani?

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/CIMG2639.jpg

or for the oil just get a piece that replaces the map sensor and you dont even have to move your oil filter.

Yea that is the break booster line that you need to tap.

k thanks mobsta

anyone for the coolant lines?

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

well once the sandwich comes i'm gonna see actually how hard it is to get the filter in and out and see whats up with that, i'll take pics and let you guys know.


after reading this, I went to check how hard it would be to change my oil filter with my sandwich plate on, it doesn't look it would be any problem with mine.

i dont really see the problem.....gsumano where did u get yours?

ORIGINAL: FlipHKD720

i dont really see the problem.....gsumano where did u get yours?

Mine is the one that comes with the edelbrock kit (15010, you can order it from your local autostores)


local://upfiles/3158/1A9D6AA042E24F159AA031A2E1838728.jpg

well once i get this thing and i look at it and consult you guys, we'll go from there i think.

IMO, don't waste your time with the coolant lines, you really don't need them. The majority of people using GT series turbos don't run coolant lines to them, oil works just fine.

ORIGINAL: SovXietday

IMO, don't waste your time with the coolant lines, you really don't need them. The majority of people using GT series turbos don't run coolant lines to them, oil works just fine.



serious? Like i honestly was going to ask that question (do i even need the coolant lines since there are plenty of turbos just running oil), but i didnt wanna look like a noob like usual haha

so then, i should just block them off like i'm gonna do with the nipple coming off the compressor housing?

Yeah blocking them off is a good idea, don't want to get crap in there.

k thanks alot Aaron, that was one part of the install i was really worried about, but that cleans things up a bit for me :)

K.I.S.S.

;)

ORIGINAL: SovXietday

K.I.S.S.



^^^Always the smart way to go!!!

Blah...I like water lines:-D Aaron is just lazy:-D

sold my headlights to Addiction for $60, i think that'll go towards my turbo timer on Friday:)

k so i'll just man up and ask it: how do you attach a big ol' filter to that little turbo inlet?! A clamp wouldnt do it since its still like 1" bigger than the turbo inlet, so for real, how do you attach the filter, or does anyone know where i can get a smaller filter that will fit around the turbo inlet?

have you ever heard of silicone reducers, son? :D

[sm=bangbang.gif]

lol thanks Gene......

Hey, just letting you know that I installed my oil sandwich adapter on already and it is actually a lot more easier to take off or put in the oil filter since it sticks out a little, allowing me to better grip it.

coolant lines don't take much time to run. I just finish running mine yesterday. They took me about 15 minutes, they would have taken me less time if I had connected the lines before putting in the turbo:)

^ thanks for the info :)

DSM's are here!!1! Thanks to Chris (2Slo4u), i traded my RC's straight up to him. I know i could have gotten more $$ for the RC's if i would have sold them and bought some DSMs, then w/e, i've got them and i'm all set.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i26/Fliphkd720/CIMG2677.jpg

He included a resistor box too, which i just need confirmation about how to wire them, so that'd be sick if you guys could help me out with it (http://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_462694/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm#471008)

Got Tach and Voltmeter in the mail along with Vacuum manifold! Gonna install the triple pillar pod (when it gets here in a few days) along with the vac mani (spliced into the brake booster line) ASAP, then install all my gauges and wire them all up to cut down some installation time.

has $20 extra dollars in my PayPal account so i bought some DSM clips.

Going home this Saturday/Sunday to install vac mani/triple pilalr pod w/ gauges. I'll post up pics :)

isntllated pillar pod today, succuss in the physical installation, but wiring is a differnet story. Boost gauge is all set, just waiting for a vacuum source so the vacuum line is just hanging out for now, tach is all f*cked up (http://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_477509/tm.htm) (link is if you wanna help me out), and voltmeter is good except the backlight burned out, so i'm gonna have to get a replacement. Auto parts store wasnt open so i could get clamps, vacuum T's, hoses, nipples and other random stuff for the vac mani installation, so that'll have to be another day.

so been really busy at college, but have been working and buying a few things, intercooler is shipped right now and should be here in a few days, only need charge piping, oil line kit and then ECU and i'm ready to get the real install going :) heres a picture of my triple pillar pod though, installed last weekend, there were some complications but i'm getting them worked out ASAP


local://upfiles/9586/A6E4718C76EB4B0497D67DFD67080965.jpg



EDIT: and yes, that is the same crack thats been in my windshield thats been there for over a year. Just been putting my money towrads other stuff instead of fixing it.....lol i know i'm lazy

Volts, boost, and rpms? I would think an oil pressure would be more important. Anyway it looks good but I think it would look better if you had white gauge faces now so they match, are you planning on them after the build is over? Keep it up Ben. [sm=smiley20.gif]

i used to have white gauge faces but they were the crappy ebay ones and they burned out. Since then i've done hte custom LED strips like addiction did. I like them alot better, although i do agree they'd match alot better with a white face.

anyway, my tach doesnt work, although its wired to the same signal wire as my shift light, which is working perfectly. I dont really understand it.....and it looks lame just sitting there

IMO i would go get an ex gauge cluster cuz theres no extra wiring needed for the tach, then i would get an oil pressure gauge like Mosta said. and then ya got both gauges

^ i might in the future, i'm strapped on funds right now and just want to put al my money towrads the boost, but i'm pretty sure thats whats gonna happen in the future.

i would sell you mine but i need it for my future build, hopefully soon. good luck on the build flip.

^ thanks man, things are gonna start heatin up real soon :)

First, need help with charge piping. This kit i found lets you choose an assortment of pipes and clamps, CHECK THIS OUT. (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/intercooler-piping-pipe-2-2-5-2-75-3-silicon-hose_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33601QQihZ019QQite mZ290160391554)

What 6 pipes do you guys suggest i get, what size (i'm thinking 2.5"), and then of course the couples and T-bolts to match the size.

Next, Tuner Toys oil line kit. Judging by this link, (http://tunertoys.zoovy.com/product/OLK38), which oil line kit should i select? How do I know what size oil inlet and drain flanges i have, or atleast what do i measure to get the right measurements?

And lastly, GReddy Full Auto Turbo Timer. I found this deal, (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GREDDY-BLACK-FULL-AUTO-TURBO-TIMER-96-01-CIVIC-HARNESS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33742QQihZ012QQ itemZ220148278369) and it looks pretty good. Price looks decent, and is that the correct harness? I'm converting to OBD1, and i'm not sure which harness it plugs into, is it anything that has to deal with OBD2 vs OBD1? Or is that the harness i can use?

Honestly, I wouldn't waste my money on a turbo timer right now...honestly it isn't as necessary as people make it out to be. I'd spend that money elsewhere..