well i have changed my turbo build dramatically over the past 6 months and its become something to be awe inspired over ;). going with a fully built d16 motor swap instead of running the stock D, maxxing out 550cc injectors to get me as much whp as i can on 92 octane pump gas.

once the turbo build completes ill move onto the exterior mods (cant have an extremely fast car without it looking cool lol)

BLUE = Purchased

heres what im running so far on my 99 ex (120xxx miles).
-Apexi Ws2 catback Exhaust $420
-ebay high flow cat (bolt on test pipe) $$25
-Ebay short shifter& Energy Suspension Bushings $$40
-17" black on crome RSL rims with lexani tires $$725

The Turbo Setup:
-turbo manifold, downpipe, dumptube (sovs setup off his stock d16) $$420
-Garret t3/t40E Ball bearing turbo 50 trim .63 a/r (posting pics when upon arrival!!) $$975
-AEM Filter (stealing it off my CAI)$00
-Tial 38mm wastegate $$205
-Godspeed Intercooler kit w/ 2.5" piping and bar and plate intercooler $$350
-Tial 50mm BOV $$200
-Fast-Turbo oil line kit w/ oil restrictor $$104
-Glowshift Oil pressure / Boost pressure gauges and gauge cluster $$100
-Oil Sandwhich Adaptor $$35
-obd2b-obd1 conversion harness $$75
-p28 chipped ecu $$175
-Fast-Turbo Vacuum Manifold $$40
-RC550 Fuel Injectors with injector clips (plug and play ftw!) $$279.00 (+ Case of Beer + Pack Of Camels)
-Action2MSSprung clutch (resurfaced stock flywheel) $$375.95
-NGK BRK7E Spark Plugs $$17
-Vacuum Lines
-misc bolts / clamps / vacuum lines / bungs $$60++

goodies to help engine run efficiant:
-Hondata S300 with boost control upgrade $$800
-ARP Headstuds $$200 (d16z6 and y8)
-Walbro 255lph Fuel pump $$103.50
-Weapon Type-RCatch Can $$50.00
-HKS Type 1 Turbotimer & Wiring harness
-BadlanzHPE 2.5" Electric Exhaust Cutout $$175
-Mishimoto radiator / slim fan / radiator hoses $$299.99
-Motorola 2.5 Bar Map Sensor $$38
-AEM Air / Fuel Guageand Bosch UEGO Sensor $$220
-Apocolypse Turbo Oil Pump $$187 (comes ported, shimmed and calibrated)
-Synchro Rings $$115
-obd2b to obd1 distributor adaptor harness $$40
-new oem distributor $$135
-nology external 45 volt coil pack / cap / rotor $130
-new throttle position sensor $$35
-obd2b-obd1 distributor conversion harness $$35
-used pgm-fi main relay $$20

-vision fuel pressure regulator $50
-vision fuel filter $60
-heat wrap / stainless zips / high heat silicone for downpipe / dump $$50

Whats gonna keep my wheels from spinning and on the ground:
-NRG engine damper $89
-Skunk2 Full coilovers $535
-EDT Traction Control Bars $215
-Poly Engine Mount Inserts $31.99
-OBX HelicalLSD $$378
-Blox Racing Front + Rear Camber Kit $$136
-New Differential Bearings & Axle Seals $$101.14
-Anti-Sway Bars
-JDM Motor Mounts $$161.49

D16z6 Head D16Y8 Block: $$3000 (still owe a grand lol, but i own it i swear)
Headwork Done-
-skunk2 stage 1 cam
-aem cam gear
-ksm springs / valves / retainers
-3 angle port and polish
-resurfaced deck
-venom intake manifold
-62mm bbk throttle body
Blockwork Done-
-Wiseco 9:5-1 Pistons
-Aluminum Block Gaurd
-Eagle rods
-alluminum Race bearings
-bored and honed

Spent On Performance Upgrades To Date: TO MUCH!
Exterior Mods, keepin it simple:
-Paint 2 match oem front bumper $$168.88
-Paint 2 match oem front right fender $$130
-Halo Projector Lights + Titanium Smoked Fogs $$168.98
-APC G2 M3 Style Mirrors $$40
-ebay type r lip
-Nopi Cannards
-Oem tinted tails $$93.99
-some body work and touch up paint!
-30% window tint all around (need estimate)

Spent On Exterior Modifications: Not Enough :(

I will update with pictures and ask questions as i startfinishing my setup. any help on what i could improve on or what im missing would be extremely beneficial, its the reason im posting so please, criticize me, i wont take offense to it as long as its positive and not just flaming me.

thx guys
-DiDDeR

make sure to get a harness for that turbo timer makes it so much easier especially if its the full auto timer

Crome will be more than fine for you. Glad to help bud.

Oh, one thing I forgot to mention in the email. Make sure that your turbo has a 4 bolt exhaust outlet, most come with them just double check from your seller. :)

Otherwise, everything looks good so far!

think i might get an act cluch instead of exedy, save some cash lol, when a clutch says holds 285ft lbs that means ft lbs of torque right? and would a clutch company rate there products at the wheel or at the crank?i never plan on exceeding 200wtq so i think i would be fine with the (ACT heavy duty clutch kit. says it hold 285ft lbs and clamps 20-50% harder)or if im pushing 220 whp should i go with the (ACT Extreme clutch kit, it hold 270ft lbs but clamps 50-120% harder) i dont know what would be better for my turbo setup. boost wont be hit till around 4000 rpm so i dont know if i need the clamp load for the launch. but i have no idea [&:]lol.

i have a machinest friend who will shave my flywheel for free, is a stock flywheel shaved down more reliable than say a fidanza? and can i shave it to basically any weight i desire? say 9lbs? cuz if i can shave my stock FW to9lbs and keep itreliable i will, but if its not as durable as the 7lb fidanza then ill go with the fidanza.

one more thing, if i do go with a super light flywheel would my car not like driving on the freeway as much... i drive 45 minutes of freeway a day so that is kind of a big deal if it affects that aspect. i dont mind the decelerating faster than usual but would my car cruise the same or would it need to work harder. thats kind of the reason i would shave my stock FW to 9-10 lbs just for that little extra weight for freeway driving.

I dont think you can really "shave" your flywheel to a certain weight. I would just get it resurfaced and spend the extra money in other places. You really wont notice enough of a difference for the money. You will be fine with either act clutch. They dont really make a clutch that doesnt hold a lot of power. I would just be careful with the disk itself. You probably want the organic disk instead of an unsprung puck disk unless you really like a chattery rough engagement. You probably wontuse the extra bite of a puck disk.

Well, im not knowledgable about clutches at all. But this looks like a great build, and your in good hands thanks to SovXietDay. Can't wait,.

Might I suggest the Action clutches?

www.garage-life.com

Email their sales depertment, I've bought a lot of stuff from them and they're a great bunch of guys, always ship my stuff out super fast! When you email them, tell them what your plans are and they'll recommend you a clutch, it will probably be the 1MS/1MD. 1MS being sprung, 1MD being unsprung (I like unsprung, gives a nice feel to the clutch).

If you get a flywheel, make sure it is STEEL! I wouldn't worry about it though, I just take a softer grinding pad to the flywheel and roughen it up a bit, aka "resurface" it. I wouldn't shave the stock flywheel... I've seen far far too many of them splitting into 5-6 pieces and splintering through every aspect of a car at a few hundred miles an hour. [&:] When a flywheel explodes it will destroy your entire car.

Oh, and if you get your manifold that I sent you before I get my ECU back, I'm gonna be ULTRA pissed (but happy for you haha).

ORIGINAL: SovXietday
I've seen far far too many of them splitting into 5-6 pieces and splintering through every aspect of a car at a few hundred miles an hour. [&:] When a flywheel explodes it will destroy your entire car.




I saw that happen to a skyline on TurboD16.com, woah it was nasty. It was a rightoff I think.

so instead of getting newflywheel i can just give mine a quick sanding with a grinding pad? wow, too easy i can do that.. just installing the clutch gonna be the hard part... all dayer im assuming

and yes sov, i did recieved it at 330 today right as i got off work... ran to the sandblasting room, sandblasted them and laughed at your o2 sensor weld and ground that off and rewelded it. then i headed over to napa where i bought some 1200-2000degree black ceramic paint and painted them.. they look brand new thx man.

one question, on the downpipe you beat the piss out of it in one spot? was that to make it fit around something? and thank you in advance if it fits around that same thing when i install it on mine lol..

ill post up some pictures of your old setup this weekend when i get to my other computer, they look 100% brand new, i couldnt be happier thx sov.

and as for the clutch, ill go with the action just cuz you havent been wrong about anything so far. so im all ears on your advice [8D]
keep the advice coming guys
thx

I had to bang that little bit there in order to fit my oil lines in. When you route your oil lines, make sure you have EVERYTHING bolted in so that you know what's going on, I didn't lol.

Oh, and I'm not the one who welded that O2 sensor lol, it's ghetto but it worked quite well.

Can't wait to see some pics!

the clutch will probably take you a full work day to complete if you have little or no experience with it. that is taking into consideration that some little bolt will seize or something else will mess up.

allocate a whole weekend for the clutch and start early in the morning. There are plenty of little things to piss you off in there.

5 days worth or pissing off to be exact

one more thing about clutches, going with the action 1ms or 1md clutch and their 12lb steel flywheel ;)fun fun

whats the difference between a sprung and unsprung clutch? what is the difference in the feel of the 2? they both can hold up to 275 hp. just curious

how long will my stock clutch last? month? maybe 2? i dont plan on launching with it but i mgiht wanna boost around traffic, lol. just curious how long i can hold out cuz i am gonna be broke as a joke after this install is all said and done.

oh and sov here ya go, your old manifold lookin good as new ;)sorry its so blurry i have no idea how to make my images smaller besides cropping the heck out of them on paint lol... someone give me some advice on how to use my photo editor? haha

Damn, that mani looks great man! I should have done that haha.

My buddies clutch was shot the first day we did a pull on his car haha. So yeah, it'll go pretty damn quick even at a low PSI. Clutch upgrade is going to be your friend, and honestly I'd just do it right away with the turbo install.

Sprung and Unsprung is simply this. Sprung is "supposed" to keep engine vibrations from the tranny. Honestly, it's just one more thing to have weaken and fall apart, once those springs start to degrade you'll get a lot of clutch chatter. I have the unsprung myself, little bit harsher engagement compared to my old sprung one but the feel for it is amazing. I definitely say 1MD all the way! :)

Oh, and by the way, clutch takes me about 3 hours. [8D] But I've had my tranny off about 7 times now lol.

ORIGINAL: SovXietday



Oh, and by the way, clutch takes me about 3 hours. [8D] But I've had my tranny off about 7 times now lol.


But you have access to a lift[&:]

Man, i wish i lived near some of you guys so i could just come watch yall work. I feel like i learn so much helping people with their cars, makes me wish i could be there and get in some learning this summer. I've never done a clutch, but i know i'll have to one day, it would be cool to help someone with theirs now....

ORIGINAL: gsumano

ORIGINAL: SovXietday



Oh, and by the way, clutch takes me about 3 hours. [8D] But I've had my tranny off about 7 times now lol.


But you have access to a lift[&:]




Only thing a lift does is allow you to work on a car standing up, I can still do a clutch in just a couple hours on the ground. It's really just a matter of unbolting all of the crap surrounding the tranny (hell that takes the longest) unbolting the tranny, pulling it off, slapping the clutch on, and then reversing everything.

seriously sov, when i start installing htis im stealing your phone #, you dont have a choice. im not gonna have my friends help cuz im doing it at the work shop, and they wont drive the hour unless im supplying the booze, which i wont be, dont want a bunch of drunks working on my daily driver well cuz its MY DAILY DRIVER . your the only guy i can think of that i could call and you would know EXACTLY what problem im running into lol.

and damnit, my check wasnt big nough for my turbo, will have to wait untill next week, only got 1400 in bank and i got insurance and car payment and cellphone and rent due, NEXT WEEK and we get down and dirty :P buying the parts under $250 will fly by 1 or 2 a week so ill have this setup compelety bought before mid august. installed and tuned by end of august. 2 months is so far though :(

someone want to GIVE me 3 grand? whos rich? lol

p.s. LIFTS FTW ;)<--

Lol, been there done that. I finally got myself caught up and have money in the bank again. Going paycheck to paycheck kinda sucks, but oh so worth it in the end. [8D]

Just lemme know when you get closer to your install and I'll give you my number.

lol sov, i talked your ear off on aim and i still got questions...

catch cans, thinking about reliability here, do they help, they catch the excess gasses and liquids that are flying out of my engine (Gulp) but is it even worth puttin one on? on the other hand, it would really look cool [8D]

any advice?

I don't have one, but I should. It's just a good way to collect all of the oil that the engine pushes out... tis what happens when you pressurize an engine lol. It's not really going to help you, just pull the entire PCV system out and you'll be ok.

and a pcv system issss? english sov english for the noob

Positive Crank case Ventalation, its the black box on the back of the block that runs to the intake manifold

w00t decided to push 10 psi with the .7 bar spring with my wastegate (buying on saturday with my turbo)

well see what these internals can handle! hopefully i wont end up pushing like 250 hp with 10 psi, hoping for more like 220 but hey i can always run err till she blows and buy a z6 and build err to the moon :D

ill just have to pull my 93 lumina out of the woods lol

I really wouldnt push 10 pounds on your stock motor. You will have plenty of fun with 6-8 and you wont blow up in 2 weeks. I would get a wastegate spring of around 5-6 psi and use a boost controller for special occasions and very rarely run10 psi. Just my $.02!

it was sovs idea lol i wanted 7 but he talked me into 10, said he knows of a 300+whp stock internal civic that runs 1/4 mile time and time again with no problems. im just using mine for weekend fun :)

we will see what happens :(

ill buy a motor and just have it lying around if 10 is to much :) maybe ill build it when i get bored. not like d16's are expensive or hard to come by.

ohh ohh and sov, my buddies b18 is turbod today, 12 psi,(around)400ponies the installer said hell be pushing:) he was gonna go 20psi but boost factory guy talked him down to 12 lol.. hes getting tuned this week sometime... son of a b**ch i wish i had a b18, but his also is built to the limit, nothing else can be done to it, it was 200+whp before boost [&:] i cant wait for a ride!

omg wow lol i just added shopped for every part on my list for a couple hours to see what i would be running.. im pretty impressed lol

this build is going to cost me at the MINIMUM $2950 without a tune.... WOW fun hurts, at least it will be a totally reliable turbo setup, i think for that much $$$ im going to run the .5 bar though and only go with 7.25 psi, ill buy a boost controller later if i really feel i need the power...

ouch ouch ouch, pushing off my turbo buy for another week, if i buy my turbo / wastegate / bov togeather they knock off 15 off the bov and WG, so yea, ima nickle and dime for all its worth :)

i shouldnt have done this research lol, shoulda just went part by part and added it up in the end [&:]

itll be worth it... right guys? (asking for some moral support on this rediculous ammount of money to be spend)

I'm coming up on 10,000 fast, if that makes you feel any better, lol.

Yeah, a shop about an hour away from me owns a 385whp stock D16Z6, all it has is ARP headstuds. I have seen the car, and I know the person who custom built their twin scroll topmount manifold. It suffered a boost spike to 34psi, not only did it survive, but the engine made about 420whp lol. It has seen a few hundred low 11second passes, it's a monster.

10psi shouldn't be any more than 230whp with the exhaust setup he's running, car will be plenty fine with a good tune. You can run a lower boost if you want, it's not going to hurt anything.

ORIGINAL: SovXietday



Yeah, a shop about an hour away from me owns a 385whp stock D16Z6, all it has is ARP headstuds. I have seen the car, and I know the person who custom built their twin scroll topmount manifold. It suffered a boost spike to 34psi, not only did it survive, but the engine made about 420whp lol. It has seen a few hundred low 11second passes, it's a monster.



[sm=insomnia.gif][sm=jawdrop.gif] wow!!!.

lol sov, again im talked back into the .7 bar

MOMMA IM GOIN FAST!!!




but i dont want to blow up [:'(]lol 230 whp civic = COMPELETEY HAPPY

omgosh, just blew $1400 on my turbo, WG, and BOV, it didnt even hurt to hit thesend payment button, itscaresme that it didnt [&:]i highly reccomend rogueusa.com if your gonna buy a garrett turbo, theyll hook you up with a 38mm wastegate for $205 bucks shipped (knocked off$15)if you buy it along with a turbo and they also knocked $15 off my bov cuz i found one for 203 on ebay and they beat its price,AND they got great customer service... 2 thumbs way the F*** up for rogueusa.com [8D]

(pics of me smiling and cuddling with my turbo soon)


quick question on my oil line kit. i found the one for my car and turbo, im runnin a gt35r turbo so i would get that kit. but does this picture of it look like its everything i need? im scared to place an order, start installing, and have my oil line kit missing stuff. like which piece in there do i have to weld to my oilpan?

http://www.stealthmodeperformance.com/oil/kitbig.jpg

Yo'ure not running a GT35R, you're running a T3T04e with a BB CHRA, lol. Not quite the same thing.

But that picture has everything you'll need for your oil lines, just get the right feed fitting for your turbo.

Yeah Im hearing more and more stories about d seires motors making crazy power on stock internals. Im starting to think theres something to those simple little motors that keeps them from blowing up. I guess you should just go with 10 psi. You can rebuild a d series block for like $600 so its really not that big a deal if it blows up anyways. Buy I would start building that backup block asap just in case.

on ur turbo make sure ur oil feed inlet is threaded or your going to neeed to tap it on get another flange

just a quick question i want EVERYONE to answer who reads and who has installed their own turbo

how long did your install take? im curious to know how many days im going to have to take off work, andjust plainSCARED to see how pissed off my wife to be will be when she finds out im under a hood and not with her for XXX number of days lol. shes considering this build a "pre-marriage crisis" i think thats kinda like a mid-life crisis but more afraid of marriage than death... who woulda thunk it?

either way i kinda want a heads up on how much of a B*tc* this is gonna be. from what ive read it doesnt seem to bad at all if everything goes right (LOL [&:]) but has anyone ever installed one of these bad boys and everything went well?

so back to the question..

how long did it take ya all? let me hear it, ill try and beat it ;)

oh and heres another quick question, will a y8 head fit on a z6 block, cuz i may start lookin for a block to build if it does, it'd be nice to know id have it around incase i throw a piston through my y8 block :(

my install october 12 ------feb 16 aka ****ing kill me but ull know its all worth it in the end

First time installing my turbo stuff, 2 days about 20 hours total working my ass off. It's not hard, it just take a while. Wiring the electronics and plumbing the vacuum lines and other **** like that is what took the longest. Bolting everything on didn't take very long, and you can weld so any "ghetto fabbing" that you need to do won't be so ghetto and will be easy.

2nd time I did it it took me 3 days, but it was more of an engine swap and tranny rebuild than anything. It didn't take me that long to do the turbo stuff, just had to bolt the turbo on and weld up a new exhaust and I was good to go.

lmfao @ dfdon... wtf happened?

basically it was during the middle of school year with 3 sports, class and work there wasnt to much time to get alot of work done...but took my time and came out fine

omg add this to my list http://www.exospeed.com/product.php?id=85

lol, i hope i dont blow my motor, cuz i know ill end upbuying something like that[&:]thats one hella boostable block.

alright didder you are going to be surprised with mine. it took me from thanksgiving to about mid may to finish my install and get tuned. i didnt have all the parts and it was my first time really doing anything on my car. i had some people help and it was great fun, all and all i think i could do it in 3 days if i had to do it again.

your car was down for that long? wowza lol. i really dont wanna pull my lumina out of the woods... shes a a BEAST!

im thinkin i can do it in 3 days np with my lift, welding experiance, mechanic of a dad and doing it here at my fab shop. goal is about 15hours... ill probably end up spending 60 :(

damn you got all the right tools accessed right to ya

Didder you have my number, I bet you probably wo'nt even have to use it. [8D]

i would spend another 100 bucks and go with laskey if your having a built motor made, you even get benson sleeves, top of the line

http://laskeyracing.com/shop/dseries.htm

im not plannin on building the motor unless she pops, and i would never go to that extreme;) unless i won the lottery or something or hit it big at the black jack table. i just saw those when i was looking for used d16 blocks and i thought they were cool lol


if i blow up the y8 biggest upgarde im going is to a z6 with crowers econo rods and arias or vitara pistons with the bearings and usual stuff. just to ensure it wont happen again, ill never be leaving 10psi or ill end up in prison lol

and sov, i will be calling lol, bolting on the turbo, hooking up the oil lines, and installing hte ecu and gauges = all easy




and sov lol. you know how we talked about removing the vaccuum lines from the pcv thing? well can you get under your car and take some pics of how yours is.. cuz i really dont understand it at all, i know to remove the 2 lines going into the box, but which hole do i choose to run to the atmosphere?


vacuum lines = WTFAMIDOINGHERE? (in english, "i have no f***ing idea why i tackled this alone!!")
i dont know ANYTHING about vacuum stuff, never played withit in my life, honestly, i dont even know where to buy them from or how many il need to get this car running... and im truely scared to pull hoses, id vrather do electrical (love hooking up systems [8D]) but pulling those hoses just SCARES the hell outta me.

for the vac lines i suggest a vac mani which is see you have on your list. its pretty easy to do. get brass fittings instead of plastic ones. all you are doing is cutting the brake boost line before the check valve. put the brake booster line into the side of the vac mani and then where the brake booster goes to the intake mani you put into your vac mani. then you just gotta run a vac source for your boost gauge, wastegate, bov and boost controller if you have one. i got my vac lines from a hardware store. i think it was .99 a foot. i can get a picture of my setup if you want man to help you out a little bit.

also i see you have an oil sandwich on your list, from experience please do not get one of these. i spent 40 bucks on one and it was just a hassle. it was the worst thing to purchase. ya they seem easier but i installed the block fitting in a matter of 20 mins. i would suggest to go wiht the block fitting you get from stealth. i hope this answers some of your questions, let me know if you have anymore.

good luck getting sov to take pics underneath the car, lol

ORIGINAL: ej6buddy

good luck getting sov to take pics underneath the car, lol


Yeah about that, lol.

thx ary, if you could post a pic of your setup i would be TRUELY appreciative, visuals will help me 100% more since i have no f-ing idea where anything is.. about time i learn [8D]

and sov, lol i jacked up my car, got under there with a flashlight for like 5-10 minutes and could not find that pcv box, where the heck is it? is it above my oil filter or what? i couldnt find anything [:@]

il google it and see what i come up with but that thing is pissin me off... BAD. hate it when i cant find something

update on my google search:::

i really know how to change a pcv VALVE now, but still no go on the pcv box!

is it higher on the block than the oil filter or lower? and when your sittin on the driver seat looking forward would the box be to the left or right of oil filter, and above it or below it. and about how far lol, this things REALLY irritating me [:@]

oh and lol, think ill swap my pcv valve when i change my oil over to synthetic, will the 6,000 mile amsoil synthetic stuff work? or do i need the really good stuff that is good for 20,000 miles lol

On Monday when I go back to the shop to start pulling everything off my car I'll take a picture of the PCV on my other engine since it's out of the car already if I remember to bring the camera.

well since i bought the turbo / bov / wastegate the next thing im'a buy is the intercooler / piping and the 440cc injectors.

got a imp question on the injectors though, i hear that the precisions dont like to fit in some civic applications, has anybody installed precision 440's in there d16? otherwise i will have to spend hte extra like $100 bucks to upgrade to rc's (really dont want to). im sticking with plug and play because i really dont want to deal with the resistor box of the dsm's

and sov, i would appreciate that like immensely, cuz it really scares me pulling hoses off of something if i dont know for 100% what im pulling hoses off of :(

keep the advice comin boys! im gettin there

ok, i was thinking about this for a while...

what are some things i can buy to beef up my engine to handle the 10.2psi better. but i am not pulling the engine out of the car so yea so far im thinking

arp headstuds (prevent headlift)
aluminum block gaurd (help beef up the cylinder walls)
http://www.f22parts.com/blockguardinstalledF22.jpg
-engine dampner (relieve stress on mounts)
-buddy club racing grounding system (run everything more efficiantly)
-add to this list please ;)

anything else i can do? remember no removal of engine stuff [8D]im not that comfortable with ma car yet.

i saw a kit on ebay that hasheadstudswith the block gaurd for 216 shipped.. how in the... does the block gaurd stay in position? does it sit in a groove and then just get squished by the head? i gots no idea, someone check out that pic and explain to me where it bolts lol

and what are some other things i can buy to relieve some of the stressof boost and make the setup run as smoothly as possible (besides a GREAT f-in tune)

again thx comrades

-didder

In order to do the blockguard correctly the engine's going to have to come out, it needs to be pressed in. Block guards are trash IMO, I'm not running one in my engine and you shouldn't either.

The only reinforcement your car needs is the ARP head studs, that is IT. Hell I didn't even run them in the Y8, although I suggest against it I somehow got away with it.

This project should be in the project section! sov next time someone is sayin they arent sure about boosting their D, just tell em your engine lasted longer than your car did. Lol.

ok ok, so screw the block gaurd, saves me $100 anyway ;), how hard are the headstuds to install? 2-3 hours? cuz i might order them now and do it before i even turbo my d

You're probably gonna want to smack yourself with this picture.

http://users.rcn.com/dwilz/blackbox.jpg

No really, I don't think I need to explain where the black box is. [8D]

here ya go didder, here are some pics of my vac mani set up. let me know if you want me to take any more pics of my set up.



local://upfiles/4038/5D5653D9A329461A825DADB43E54D235.jpg

local://upfiles/4038/F16212B32343430BB2BBF691733C371D.jpg

thx ary, but i do know how it connects to the vacuum manifold, what i dont know is what the stuff hooked to the manifold is hooked to on my engine [&:]lol

ill be getting my turbo / bov / wg in mail in about err 1 or 2 days so il update with some pics for ya all then.

and sov, i saw that little mother fu**er back back there when i looked but it seems higher up than that but maybe my head was just higher up my ass lol. ill talk to you on aim sometime soon here one more time and figure out exactly what im supposed to do to make the custom catch can work. i get scared just guessing, im the type that needs to KNOW.. i think you figured that by now though lol

thx everybody keep the info and tips comin!

the two other black lines are my wastegate and bov, the clear line is my boost gauge and the thick one is the brake booster which was cut.

oh wow, i thought it was more complicated than that. Thx a ton! gonna need help on the brakebooster, and your boost gauge goes straight from the manifold to your gauge? thought it plugged in somehwere else too but hey i dont know anything yet

buying my tri pod and gauges soon, if i buy the vacuum manifold and thesandwhich adaptor,would it be wise to installthe gaugesbefore installing the turbo? ill be ricer and have a car with sweet gauges and no use for them!! woohoo they look cool though

i could just hook the boost pressure gauge up to the vacuum manifold and it would read nothing right? the oil pressure would read correctly plugged into the sandwhich adaptor. and do i hook up a vacuum gauge to the vacuum manifold or somewhere else?

getting the usual boost / oil pressureand then a vacuum pressure gauge(not tuning my car so no need for air/fuel setup)

Install **** as you get it, trust me, cuts down install time a ton and it sucks wiring up gauges after you just put in 20 hours of straight work.

good deal then, ive been itching to bolt on / wire up something on my car, its been crying for "work on me attention". so ill be bolting on and wiring up my vacuum mani, sandwhich adaptor, and boost / oil pressure / volt gauges soon... hooray fun fun!

quick couple questions about fuel management, i read somewhere that the precision 440's dont like to fit into civics? anybody have a problem with precision injectors fitting?

and another thing, what would happen if i swapped my car from obd2b-obd1 and then put the chipped p28 in? it wouldnt hurt anything would it? wouldnt it just run me a little fat? kinda like an ebay chip except without the LIES!

Don't put the ECU in until you are done.

My 780ccs popped right in.

omg, venom intake manifold, for umm like half price off my buddies old z6, he converted his si to a b18c and has a completely flat out built z6 block and a y8 head that he did for his school shop class project, and then he realized they wouldnt fit lol, i think i may buy his head and just steal his venom mani cuz its so freakin cool.

one thing im worried about if i buy his head, andIM,is if i do would i be pushing way to much power for my stock internals with the .7 bar? only thing i would have helping the block would be headstuds [&:]

i got to jump on this fast though cuz hes moving to arizona in 7 days for honda school so whats your alls opinions? push boost off for about another 2 weeks and get a TIGHT ass head and mani, or just say screw it and go for the boost only?

Just wondering here, most turbo set ups are able to be kept street legal right, except for like on an all out race car?

unless you live in california, you can run an 800whp civic on the street ifyou wanted to,as long as it had all the lights, blinkers, and stuff like that that are mandatory by law. but anything over like 350whp is rediculous on the street since you would have to run race gas and you would pay out of your ass at the pump.

back to the important question though, WHAT SHOULD I DO!? lol

Give me the intake manifold and stay stocker. No really lol. For your goals you don't need it, not even close. I do though!

ORIGINAL: didder

unless you live in california, you can run an 800whp civic on the street ifyou wanted to,as long as it had all the lights, blinkers, and stuff like that that are mandatory by law. but anything over like 350whp is rediculous on the street since you would have to run race gas and you would pay out of your ass at the pump.

back to the important question though, WHAT SHOULD I DO!? lol


thats why you run 110 octane e85

lol sov, ill ask him what he wants for it, he payed 600 and it was never used, just bolted on [&:]hes got 4k into a d16, built to the T and it has never been installed or never will, its in his garage, he decided to fully build a b18c AFTER he built the d16, dont understand why he blew so much money lol..

but yea ill tt him this weekend when were bolting on my headstuds

PICTURE UPDATES COMING THIS WEEKEND

ohh another update, just bought my sandwhich adaptor, gauges, gaugecluster, and vacuum manifold!

could use some help on connecting my break booster line to the vacuum manifold?

one more thing, the break booster line is the one connecting the intake mani to the little black circle thing that the break fluid box is connected to right? lol sorry im not much of a mechanic yet.

do i cut the BBL in half, connect it to the vac mani and little circle thing on drivers side? then with the other half do i connect one side to the intake mani (already connected anyway) and the other side to the mani also? thats what it looks like i would be doing from this pic that i found of ary's when he was having hisBBL problems..

thx for the pic btw lol

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a209/Forty04/DSC00438.jpg

anybody with tips for my break booster / vacuum mani question?

the brake booster is your thickest line. cut it before the check valve, i believe thats what its called, then connect the shorter end that goes from yourintake mani to a port on your vac mani. then hook up the longer end to the side of your vac mani.

so basically, do exactly what your picture looks like ;)thats a ton easier than i was thinking it would be.

one thing though, what and where is the check valve? i saw nothing like a valve on my BB line. or am i just being dumb

thx a lot for the info

lol to be honest i was wasted when tony did mine so i dont remember. i htink just as long as you cut it down towards the intake manifold so you have a little left to hook up to the vac mani. you might want to call soviet on that one.

ORIGINAL: SovXietday

My 780ccs popped right in.



you suggest installing the bigger injectors beforehand? I know your not telling the ECU to supply anymore fuel, but it just seems like bigger injectors would be bad for your a/f ratio. Its okay thouhg? I can see the gauges, just nothign dealing with fuel.

(sorry for the thread jack Didder )

Do not install the bigger injectors or fuel pump or any of that stuff until you do the swap and change the ECU.

flip is a thread jacker... banned from my post from now on [:@]

j/k j/k only thing im doing before hand are my gauges, vacuum mani T'ed, sandwhich adaptor installed, and i might weld on my bov flange to the ic piping, everything else is getting saved for the major overhaul :(

and sov, i looked EVERYWHERE tonight, i couldnt find a cheap y8 block, or whole engine anywhere, i def want one lying around just in case, ya know? [sm=bananallama.gif]

any good sites? that you know of, to many jdm sites that just have d15bs :(

ORIGINAL: didder

flip is a thread jacker... banned from my post from now on [:@]

j/k j/k only thing im doing before hand are my gauges, vacuum mani T'ed, sandwhich adaptor installed, and i might weld on my bov flange to the ic piping, everything else is getting saved for the major overhaul :(

and sov, i looked EVERYWHERE tonight, i couldnt find a cheap y8 block, or whole engine anywhere, i def want one lying around just in case, ya know? [sm=bananallama.gif]

any good sites? that you know of, to many jdm sites that just have d15bs :(


just start looking for a z6 didder :D

Newspaper, craigslist, h-t marketplace, HCF marketplace, TurboD16 marketplace, etc etc etc.

ORIGINAL: SovXietday

Do not install the bigger injectors or fuel pump or any of that stuff until you do the swap and change the ECU.


i misread, sorry guys

will the z6 bolt into a ex coupe exactly like a y8? and would it be just as easy and walkthrough as a y8?

Wow guys, missed the minneapolis 35dub bridge collapse by 10 minutes, i just went through it heading home from my girls house.

scary stuff ehh? i cross that bridge like 6 times a week, now i have to take 35e [&:]good thing it is same distance and time.

back on topic though, i just basically bought a y8 block, my buddy is holding onto it for me until mine blows, then im upping the psi until i reach max safe whp with 92octane... 3 grand for motor bored to 75.2mm with fitting high performance pistons, eagles most high performance rods, best quality bearings he could find, and basically everything is built for 450 whp, he swapped a built b18c isntead and has this lying around his garage so he said hell hold it for me until mine blows, and i just have to pay him whenever i wantlol... good idea to have a friends with like cars ;)

all i gotta do to it is bring it to my machinest and have him port my oil pump and ill be set! this is me geting ahead of my topic though again, that will be my next build, which will be taking place in the spring after i get my car stiffened up with traction control bars, jdm engine mounts, an obx lsd, engine dampner, and whatever else i can think of, i dont want to be spinning through 3rd with a 300+ whp car.

btw, im installing my gauges and cluster this weekend, also my arp headstuds and new 3 layer gasket (getting unused headstuds and sweet gasket for $80 is my idea of sexy)

Almost there boys, cant wait to blow the doors off my buddies cars. gonna have to make a sick ass video for hcf.

me vs:
modded mustang gt 4.6
mustang svt (cobra)
tricked out 350z
audi s4
Evo
Celica Gs-T
anyone i can find at Hot import nights, my car better be done by end of september!!!







one question though, if im only gonna be runing like 230-240whp for a while would it be stupid to buy 550cc injectors? even though im upping it to like 300+ by next year this time?

Glad to hear you weren't involed in that dude.:) What a mess.

That is like horrible about that whole bridge thing but glad to hear you made it

yea sad stuff, im glad i wasnt running a little late.

but on a happy note, i got my gauges, installing them tomorow morning and next week im bringing the car into the shop to get a stupid TINY little oil leak fixed, while there at it ill have them install the arp headstuds and my new 3 layer Head Gasket. ill post some pictures tomorow.

working on a couple sites to get a complete intercooler kit, think im going with the godspeed one, they said all i would need is a L pipe and it would be complete so yea rock on :)

otherwise im going with the fast-turbo piping with the godspeed IC, the fast-turbo guys really kick ass but they are a little more than the godspeed guys...

decisions decisions..

got some pictures finally of my progress, installed my gauges and cut my break booster line and installed that into my vac mani too.. ill take some pics of that tomorrow and throw them up next weekend.

the whip its all going on:
local://upfiles/20779/B209BF251DAB4DF1890E37B2C7D4D4F3.jpg

the build so far afterjust under 2k(gauges / vac mani are on car get those pics up soon)
local://upfiles/20779/5DC42775610646BDA39BBFBA8B4D7F3B.jpg

i giggle like a school girl every time i look at this turbo $975 well spent [8D]
local://upfiles/20779/D4D8F73EEAE340EA97D5EF9F09585CA8.jpg

the tial brothers, all shiny andeager to make my car sound like a badass
local://upfiles/20779/79E4E90FD8A044EFA51E8EA9AA72C79C.jpg

sovs old setup, he hooked me up PHAT with these nickas(sorry for the ebonics)
local://upfiles/20779/12E8A660227C4D5BB4D6FABDCA692A66.jpg



ill get the gauges up soon like i said, they look pretty tight.. one recomendation, dont use menards for finding your pipe fittings for your vac mani, they are dumb as hell, had no 1/8"npt threads with a 3/8" barbed fitting, had to fit like 3 pieces togeather to make it from 1/8"-3/8" so it looks gay, but hey it worked [&:]but they did have the 1/4"npt-3/8"barb so half of my break booster T-Off looks decent, and they had the size connector for my boost gauge hose too, so it wasnt a total gayfest.

what'dya all think so far?

looks beautiful, i'm jealous as always

i think it looks good and i love ebonics

gauges were a serious pain in the ass to wire up!!! directions were vague so it was a lot of test lighting... in the end we got them hooked up. (partially, the boost gauge works and lights up but its on constantly if my ignition is on because im not hooked up to the lighting source just the acc on my ignition. my oil pressure gauge lights up and is ready to get wired but im waiting till next oil change to install the sandwhich adaptor and wire up the rest to get a read, and it stays on at all times like my boost gauge cuz of the 12v light source, bla bla bla, hate not completing something cuz i get stuck)

need help on something:
whats a 12v lighting source? would it be any of the + screws on the back of my mph/rpm cluster box thing? theres a bunch of circuits and stuff but i didnt know which one to hook my 12v lighting source to so i left em be cuz its easy to getback there and ill do it when i figure it all out.

ill post some more sweet pics this weekend, they look pretty tight and they light up my whole freakin car, i tried to run a firebird (v6 so worthless :() with some punks in it and he rolled down his window and said, "not even gonna try if your boosted" i laughed, and drove on..

nothing better than being a total fake booster ricer! i should mount my intercooler and go buy one of those sweet ebay things that you hook to your exhaust and they go WIIIPAHHH like a bov... and i hear they gain like 15rwhp on a civic. no joke

alright guys, this was just a quick update on my progress, im getting there, probably another month and a half away, (this month is so $$$ 4 year aniversary = $300 bucks easily, have to get my tiny little oil leak fixed, which better be cheap, and my O.T. just got cut, so my checks are like $150-250 less, freakin sucks i was planning on the end of this month :(that plans out the window though)

hear from you all soon

-didder

ahaha, V6 in any muscle car is usually ussless.
But Fallfast changed my mind a little with his stang.

sounds like you are on your way didder. one thing a 12v source is this for your gauges? if so then just wire them into one of your fuses. i wired mine into my lights so everytime i turn on my lights, my gauges will light up as well.

how would i wire it into a fuse? any tips on doing so cuz what you did is exactly what i need.

take the fuse out, strip the wire and have it so the actual wire is showing. twist it up and put it around the fuse. jam the fuse back in with the wire around it and whoallla its fixed.

lol, thats ghetto riggin it for sheeeeeeezzzzy. love it ary you are just my style!

which fuse did you use? just anyone on the back of the cluster?

ORIGINAL: didder


nothing better than being a total fake booster ricer! i should mount my intercooler and go buy one of those sweet ebay things that you hook to your exhaust and they go WIIIPAHHH like a bov... and i hear they gain like 15rwhp on a civic. no joke

-didder

lol... I just installed my interfooler this weekend:)e

You're looking to tap into the black/red wire in the back of the dimmer switch for gauge lighting;) No ghetto fuse wrapping.

yep, when i was trying to reconnect the light to my tachometer, i just went to the bunch of wires that stuck out under my steering wheel connected to my signal switch, which is also the switch to turn my car lights on. i just cut, maybe there is a better way but i don't know, and tested them to see which wire is for my lights and i crimped the tachometer light wire to my car's light wire. now, it turns on with the car.

like I said, pop the dimmer and splice into the black/red wire...I did it a millon times.

thx roto thats a piece cake and i like that better than nigga riggin the fuse...

got another question...

where did you all get your chipped ecu's? and which place has the best basemap from the factory?
wanna do a little bit a research cuz i gotta drive an hour to get to my tuner so i need a pro basemap

got some pictures of my gauges now, they look pretty good i think, but what'dyall think? there a little blurrier than i thought, sorry bout that [&:]


local://upfiles/20779/CABA517DA7864F1D94BAD6B2CF91DB4B.jpg

local://upfiles/20779/0608723F7E0F45B48AE47D1458502E13.jpg

keep the tails or go back to stock? i got em with the car and they are kinda growing on me, what do you guys think?
local://upfiles/20779/0D6A8E11B2C443AA83FF1A541218EB4A.jpg

local://upfiles/20779/C688DE91799247289A4BF0B9301AF4F5.jpg

real men sport strawberry shortcake. (nuff said)
local://upfiles/20779/96C2668E7D03488FB537D82A09E1A239.jpg

gauges look great man :)tails, i'd prolly go OEM tinted to match your rims

and what about my adapter plate?! haha

think im just going to buy that tint in a can crap and see how it makes them look, but im not touching them until i get my cfiber hood / trunk / paintjob. thats a dif topic though.

im dealing with phearable.net right now working on a sweet ass basemap, im pretty much gonna have my car completely tuned w/ basemap, he said if i tell him every detail of my setup that he will be able to almost match it exactly because hes done so many tunes ;)hopefully this saves me some major cash when it comes to the actual tuning costs


im just going to bring it into rsmotors and have them squeeze me the last little bit of hp out of the setup.

hey man, did you call Phearable then and tell them everything? Thats awesome, cuz i'm gonna do the same thing, good luck with the basemap/tune, i've actaully read quite a few reviews of Phearable where the dyno tuner barely made any changes since the basemap was so good from them :)

nahh, i just emails him my:

-engine (d16y8)
-turbo size / brand
-psi im running
-intercooler diameter
-dumptube, cat size, and exhaust brand / diameter
-lol i even told him the brand of my air filter (aem)
-and the octane id be running (92)

with all that he should be able to almost tune my car lol, well see just how good he really is

that sounds great man, let us know how it turns out :)

^Good for a basemap, but I wouldnt let the motor see much boost. Id start it up after the install, then drive it to the tuner, TRYING to stay out of boost....Then let the tuner to it with the wideband and dyno. Spending all that $ on the setup and cheaping out on the tune is like drinking cheap booze in a PIMP CUP!

lol, i was getting a pro basemap just to cut the cost of the tune down. i wouldnt ever imagine cheaping out on the most important part ;)

ORIGINAL: Pete
Spending all that $ on the setup and cheaping out on the tune is like drinking cheap booze in a PIMP CUP!


welcome to the sig :D

its way true though^^^ i damn near blew up the b7 with sh*tty management and poor tuning

omgadvice needed, i bought a glowshift (ebay) sandwhich adaptor to plug in my oil pressure gauge and oil line kit into, when i installed it to hook up the gauge it fine, until i started the car and let the pressure build up where it drained a quart and a half of oil within 20 miles!!

now the sandwhich adaptor has a gasket on the block side, and just a flat smoothe surface on the other, sov said i would need to put some honda bond on the flat surface so that the oil filter can seal better... buthow come the oil filter would seal to the block with only one gasket and not the sandwhich adaptor?

see the picture for referance, smoothe aluminum surface where the oil filter sits, and there is a gasket on the bottom


http://www.theneonedge.com/oilfilteradapterdia.jpg

this is how it works
http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/productimages/OILFILTERDIA.jpg
any advice or would going with the honda bond and giving it kind of a 2way gakset be enough??


problems before i even get to the real install!!! lol

p.s. i got my arm stuck in my car for 20 minutes trying to screw the wire onto the sensor, god im dumb, i was to stupid to do it before and to lazy to take it off, thought i was gonna dislocate my elbow..

GOOD TIMES!

more questions, think my thread died but i might as well keep posting lol

where can i find the male bracket that fits inside of the engine side of the catylitic converter???? auto stores dont carry any, and i cant find any online?

does anyone know where i can find one of these?

ok so heres what i came up with finally tell me if you all think that it will work

heres the male fitting that will insert into the cat:
http://i12.ebayimg.com/04/i/05/c1/30/0f_1.JPG

i will weld the flange above to this flange so that i can bolt the downpipe to the cat:
http://i8.ebayimg.com/04/i/000/7e/3d/be3e_1_b.JPG
one more thing, the bolt flange, would that work on a stock honda cat? my cats got the same bolt pattern as my old stock one but i just wanna make sure that thats what this is

thx everyone

man i hate little **** like this that screws with ur build forever if it was me id just say **** it and buy a new hi flow car lol like when i was puttin my z6 back together i got screwed over for nearly a week cause i was missin one flywheel bolt and nowhere had one finally found it in a box in the trunk

well i think ive been overthinking this whole thing, i dont need the male fitted flange, i just need a 2 bolt flange and a gasket to seal everything off, im dumb

stuff thats way to easy bugs me [:@]

ok ok ok, i just saw the coolest thing on our freeway run this week, a subaru wrx sti had this y pipe thing that he had a switch for, it was badass

he would be quiet when he was dd but when someone would pull next to him he would hit a switch and his ypipe would move and it would go from being a full exhaust to a straight downpipe exhaust

how freakin cool is that? thats exactly what i need, anyone know of these things?

I think pete used to have one on his turbo d and they are call cutout downpipes.

http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/Downpipes/index.php

e-cutout made by flowtech I believe...

sweet thx for the website, omg why doesnt everyone do that? just a cut / weld / wire up quick easy job for like 20whp, cool

ill hvae to do it after my motor swap or i will blow the hell out of my stock y8

I'll tell you why everyone doesn't do that. Cause they rattle , leak, and all kinds of other great stuff, but don't let that turn you off, running with an open downpipe is sweet...just be sure to shut it before shutting the car off so that cold air wouldn't et in there while the engine is hot.

Didder, why arent you answering my PMs or AIM messages? If you're not gonna be able to ship this adapter plate out to me i need to know so i can find another way of making one

ack, sorry bro, things kinda went really bad for me with a bunch of stuff and ive been really stressed out... pm me your address and ill make sure i get that out to you, and dont worry bout shipping.

sorry flip :(

oh man its totally cool, just wondering whats up iwth ya know? ;)

im buying my precision 440's as soon as i figure this out, do i need injector clips for a 99 ex? or will they fit w/out them.

thx

finally bought my fuel management!

went through phearable he helped was the most helpful so i payed a little more to do business with him..

$270 for a super pro basemap on a p28 and obd2b-obd1 harness

$239 away funtil build is complete! need my precision 440's and clips




quick and important question, sov should probably answer this lol since hes had hte same build

i need bolt but i dont know what sizes and or threads!

4 for Mani-Turbo
4 for Turbo-Down pipe
2 for Mani-Tial 38mm WG
2 for WG-Dump Tube


when im making my car have over about 120whp more should i up to the 2 step colder plugs or stick with 1 step colder? i read somewhere every 100whp you should go 1 step colder, but idk

I know im not Sov. but any turbo application go 2 step cold plugs.

ugh more little questions

i want everything in my garage so i dont have to run little errands so i can get this done in a day lol... attempt

vaccuum hoses, i need one from my wg, one from my bov, and i cant think of anywhere else?? am i missing anything??

would say about10 ft of sweet blue 6mm vac hose get me enough??

THX

more pesky questions to come!

Edelbrock recomends running two step colder plugs on my kit and i'm only making around 170 hp, but i'm using 1 step colder plugs since they were the only plugs i could find locally and so far car has been running smooth without any problems[8D](except for my worn out clutch making a cluttering noice[>:])


for my wastegate and bov I used about 6ft of 1/4in vacumm hose. Are you running any colant lines to that snail? For my coolant lines, I used about 8ft of 3/8in hose.

Make sure you have all your gaskets (you can used your old gasket for your turbo manifold if it's in good shape) , bolts and washers. Also, some synthetic oil and oil filter.

Are you welding your oil fitting to your oil pan? If you are make sureit's aluminum since your oil pan is aluminum.

got an aluminum bung, im a welder so i will tig it right on there no problem.

no coolant lines, all oil fed t3/t04e :D

got a new exhaust mani gasket, new head gasket, andsome other misc stuff, just need the flipping bolt sizes :(:(:(

then were rockin!

just go with your mani and downpipe to the hardware store and try seeing which bolts fit:D

yea, im going in to either

home depot
lowes
or...
hardware HANKS

with a turbo, manifold, downpipe, wastegate and dumptube

gonna be fun lol

ORIGINAL: didder

yea, im going in to either

home depot
lowes
or...
hardware HANKS

with a turbo, manifold, downpipe, wastegate and dumptube

gonna be fun lol




haha i'm doing the same thing ASAP, should be a fun experience :) good luck Didder

once i get the last few little pesky items (plugs, vac lines, bolts, wee little metal clamps, zipties, screws, etc...) ill be done with the purchasing and onto the installation

hoping i can pull this install in a day, morning till morning if i have to, then the next week ill throw on the 2ms clutch ill be ordering at the end of the week... then onto some of the small things that just make the engine run good. (vac mani, Engine dampner, walbro fuel pump, turbo timer, etc etc etc.)ALMOST BOOSTED TO AROUND 230-240WHP on stock internals, well see how long she lasts...


SOON TO COME::

motor build, copying sovs to the T lol, but im building a y8 block instead of a z6... just gotta find my motor.

block plans: vitaras, h beams, ported oil pump, jdm water pump, new performance bearings..

head plans: zex 5300 cam, zex springs, skunk 2 retainers, aem cam gears


ending goals for car... 325whp or so on 92 octane for my dd'er... when i get my new truck well strip the car down and max out the turbo for fun and turn it into a weekend warrior with 400+ whp

I recommend installing the clutch the same time you instal the turbo. My stock clutch only lasted meone test drivebefore starting to make a cluttering noice. Each time I test drove it, noice kept getting worse.[&:]

not installing till the 23rd, so ill have a clutch, traction control bars, an engine dampner, and skunk2s on.. ill hook up pretty good..

my buddy getting done with wyotech 22nd and just got done with a turbo / sc'er course and was like (dude i can install that turbo in 10 hours TOPS) so i was like ROCK ON!!

So yea, professional turbo install, professional clutch install, professional everything install, and for free?

cant beat that can ya

ok more updates, i just bought my action 2ms clutch, ill install that as soon as i get it lol,

my left leg is gonna be HUGE

Build is coming along good, Keep us updated[8D]

well right now in the mail to be coming is, intercooler, piping, couplars / clamps, clutch, bushings, p28 ecu / conversion harness..

like over 1k in parts driving my way

fun stuff

what is a jdm water pump? oem bearings are gonna be best, just some suggestions

lol, jdm probably meaning best one i can find [8D], and yea i probably will go with oem too, honda knows best lol

what are h beams???

eagle h beams = connecting rods

thankz, it just kinda confused me

ok ok, i got my Godspeed intercooler piping / intercooler today and said "OHHHH CRAP" i didnt realize that the civic kit that they have comes with a bov flange welded onto it already

now i have to cut the damn weld flange on the onethey provided, and weld the tial bov flange on... gonna be a pain in the ass to make it look clean... god dammit.

i probably payed extra for something i didnt even need.... dammit again!

just waiting on my injectors to come in the mail and we are good to go for the install but i think im gonna wait on my buddy till the 23rd, install the clutch first break it in so that its good to go for turbo fun [8D]

NM about the bov flange, i am an IDIOT! the tial flang fits inside the godspeed flange PERFECTLY after you grind of the U thats used to fit the 2.5" piping... so yea, good deal... problem solved

ok everyone check out page one again, the turbo build has stayed the same but i am now purchasing a fully built block and head, this car will be a true beast, i have a lot more crap to buy in order to make the car run safely with the extra power of the built motor so i want you all to check it out and tell me EXACTLY what you think.. and what you think im missing and or need to improve apon

slowing down on the build though, i have spent 4k in car parts in a little over 2 months, i need a breather, installing the turbo and hopefully have the rest of the list completed by this time next year... and i still have to get the car painted lol

whos building your head and how much is it costing you? what all does it come with?

head was built by my friend, the whole long block is costing me 2k...

head has a 3 angle port and polish, skunk2 stage 1 cam, skunk2 valves, aem cam gear,and some kxt or kxl or something valve springs and retainers... something else was done to the head to, machining wise but i cant remember what it was called, and a 62mm bbk TB, and a venomIM for breathing room

block is fully built, wiseco pistons, eagle rods, race bearings, block gaurd, the whole shibang... for 2k and its never been used and everything was professionally installed then hell yea ill buy it, will save me the headache

^ i know you were talking to me about it on AIM, but man its gonna be so sick :)

got any pics of the head?

its sitting in his mom garage, and hes in arizona going to motor school... and its all assembled so i wouldnt want to take it apart and snap some pix lol, i will when i purchase it in a couple months

im just saying like pics of the ports intake and exhaust. its somewhat what i do and i just like seeing others work lol:D. Its no biggy though haha

ill take a million pics of it once i buy it, but i might not buy it for 6 months or so, well see how long my stock block lasts lol

ORIGINAL: didder

ill take a million pics of it once i buy it, but i might not buy it for 6 months or so, well see how long my stock block lasts lol

Damn its going to be a while[8D]
Im lovin the build ,keep us updated!

well johnny, the turbo setup will be installed in a week or 2, so that can wet your taste buds, cant tell the difference between the engine i have now and the new one anyway, besides the vtec on the valve cover and the kick ass huge crome venom manifold lol,

if he lets me buy it on payment plan, like 500 a month or something then ill buy it now, but i got so much more stuff do put into my car before its ready for 300whp

ohhh this is for rice [8D]heres exactly whats been done to the head, basically everything lol
From my buddy josh:
"hey sorry i didnt get back to you the other day i was driving with a ford gt in the twisties lol but, if you wanted we could work out some sort of payment for it. For the head the machine work includes full bead blast, remachined deck, reconditioned valve guides, 3 angle valve seat job to match new valves, new oil seals, kms valves, kms valve springs, kms hardened keepers, kms titaniam retainers, skunk2 stage 1 cam, minor polish just cleaned up a few burs, for the most part honda heads dont need port and polish, the built to good from the factory lol, one thing i would recomend doing which is pretty easy to do yourself is port match the throtle body to the intake manifold if needed, and the intake manifold to the port and same with your exhaust manifold, you can do this with a dremel. all valve train rated safe to 11k rpm ( though i dont think id try that lol)"


well yea, all i got to really do is match the TB to the IM, and IM with my Exhaust Manifold... what do you think of that head build rice?

got some good quality parts in it. Are you gonna do the port matching on the manifolds and throttle body opening?

if i got a motor thats fully built i might as well have the ports all matching to get the last little bit of power out of it... what do you reccomend i do? and how hard would it be to do? or how much would it cost to bring my head to someone and have them do it all?

i can do all that for a pretty cheap price. i will pm you a price shipped back to you

i would just have my buddies brother do it for dirt cheap, he owns a machine shop, pretty sure he knows how to run a dremel...

hes also a gearhead so yea, but pm your price anyway cuz if he doesnt want to do it then ill ship err out to you

-didder

im going to need a new radiator before the swap, but i was wondering if i could get away with just the radiator and skip buying a new fan? will the stock fan im running now work fine for running say 280whp?

im really freakin close to having this build fully complete and its just killing me knowing im so close lol..

my last decision is in the process, and i need all of your help on this one!

its all about the lsd, im going to have around 220whp and EVERYONE is going to want to run me from a dig, cuz htey all know they can take me from a dig, so im beefing up my traction as much as possible, but i cant decide on teh type of lsd


obx lsd or phantom grip... obx is still a 1 wheel wonder, but the phantom grips are freakin duel locking under load, how cool is that? my only concern about the PG is has anyone ever used one? either people say they are way better than the helicals or they say they are junk... i cant decide decisions decisions!


so what do yall think? phantom grip or obx, duel grip, or one wheel wonder, they are both the same price, but i want all your opinions.


and p.s. i dropped buying the fully built motor, figured id make my car actually look nice and drive it around around 220whp... thats plenty enough freakin power and my car looks like trash, so i figure, body work / paint / cf accents > 3k motor and 100 more whp lol

Get an OBX LSD and cryotreat the internals for like $50...DO NOT get a phantom grip POS unless you like sh!t floating around your transmission..

alright alright alright, not going with an lsd, the tcb, suspension, engine mounts, and engine dampner should be enough to keep the wheels from spinnign through 3rd...


BUILD IS $50 DOLLARS FROM COMPLETION::: just need plugs, hoses, and bolts... the turbo timer can come later

just ordered my suspension, inserts, and tcb bars today, they will be coming within the next 2 weeks... the install will go as follows

nrg engine dampner
skunk2's
tcb's
inserts
clutch (break it in for 500 miles)
headstuds
whole big 'ol turbo kit (yuck)
catch can



where in heck do you install catch cans at? i got no room whatsoever in my engine bay, and ill have less after turbo, the things not small like 10x4" tube and i got no idea... any suggestions would be FANTASTIC

where the airbox used to be if you route your pipint right...

There should also be some room near the firewall on the driver side. Like right:

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h284/windcalmer/catchcanspot.jpg

on that side of the firewall is hwere my vac mani is... i guess ill just mount it where my airbox is.. lots of open space there... just have to drill some of my own holes for the mounts i suppose

dammit didder, get your act together already and install this hog so we can go cruise university. also, i'd recommend getting it tuned at the place i am, DB Performance. their import tuner is shane from Elite, the guy who tuned nates hatch and all the other monsters you've seen around

getting tuned at rs motors, those guys know there **** big time... straight from asia! and can you say free tune? its awesome having friends that work at bad ass shops... if i didnt go there i think i would go to blown motorsports in bloomington, he said hes been re tuning all the other shops around the state for a while now cuz they all suck, but idk, just word of mouth...

and one more thing, nates hatch? i hear it has 650whp??? that is not true is it? lol i see him sitting at porkies but never running, car i always see running is the white sti with the e-cut out, that car is pretty insane.


anyway, update on the install kinda:
installed the dampner, new skunk2's, tcb's, and poly inserts, my buddies '70 chevelle with a 396 doesnt pull on me till i bog out in 2nd lol, so from 0-35ish im launching pretty damn solid,im pumped, this car HOOKS now, its so much nicer than the 130k suspension engine mounts and everything lol.

2 weeks from now clutch / headstuds / turbo install is going down! taking a friday night-whenever i need... mossy hit me up if you wanna help, i pmed you my cell...

actually, *ahem*, its 660hp. but whos counting?;) i saw his hp on the hp wall of fame at db today. and yes, he does run.

well guys, the dates set, taking off the whole weekof thanksgiving, and doing it then... wil be boosted by thanksgiving day hopefully making a hopeful 220whp with the setup on 10 psi, might even turn err up and max out the map sensor at 12psi but idk yet, got a fully built motor waiting but people suggested getting used to a little lower boost before jumping into a 320+whp monster lol... so ill be doing all that in the mid to late summer next year, got a lot fo body work to do yet.

and mossy, i konw this indian, Austin vig, drives an m5 right now 450+hp, but he just bought a new 08 z06 vette, and it rapes the m5, and hestwin turboing that s.o.b. gonna be INSANE!

wish i had money like the indians on the rez lol

ahh!! this thing is killing me, sorry no update for so long but i cant make up my mind... and i finally did... this time for real

doing a motor swap, fully built d16 bottom (pistons, block gaurd, bearings, rods, arp headstuds, the usual machine worketc...) and a fully built head, (skunk2 stage 1 cam, ksm springs, retainers, valves, aem cam gear, venom mani, bbk 62mm tb, everything port matched, 3 angle port and polish, resurfaced deck) its 3k and unused and hes letting me pay un interest payments so i have to...

so now only thing i really need is 4-5 days to let me and my mechanic buddy and i guess mossy to do this! gonna tune it until i run out of fuel on rc 550's..

and again, my apologies for the build being so ongoing and pointless, but i do have a complete turbo kit sitting in my garage, im just trying to make the wisest decision on what i truely want the car to be...

and i finally have!

fully built d16, boosted to "hopefully" 300+whp coming your way hcf fans

next post from me will be the progress of the install, and thats it! lol with lots of pictures

thats awesome man, just make sure you get a clutch for the tq/hp you will be putting out. i can't wait to see it.

going to be running an action 2md.. sov runs it so i better be fine lol..

hardest part is going to be, having a turbo freshly installed on a new motor and clutch!! how in the F***ing Hell am i going to be able to hold myself back for 500 miles or more.. lol


big question for you all though, my basemap i ordered from phearable is set for 440cc injectors and a stock d16, will it be safe to drive to my tuner with 550cc injectors and a full ported, intaked, tbed, and cammed head? its about a 60 mile drive :(

hm....im not sure about the basemap question. i think you need to have exactly what your setup is on your basemap. you might want to double check with sov. also just go take a nice little 250 mile trip one way to break in the new motor. lol good luck with the install

i wouldnt drive it until i had a basemap for the bigger injectors, cam, you changed quiet a few things that will affect how the engine runs now form the basemap with 440cc

i can just bring my base map to my tuner before hand and he should be able to switch it up to whats needed pretty easy im guessing... but thats me guessing completely

my last little problem i need to figure out before theinstall [:@]

ever heard of a tow truck?

i guess i could technically trailor it but im so lazy lol...

one more quick easy question...what can rc 550cc injectors handle for whp?i was just planning on tuning the car up until i ran out of fuel and j/c on how much power ill be pushing...

hopefully the 550's will give me enough power to put down vipers and z06's lol

install will begin next sunday!!!!!! hopefully tuned and ready to rock by the following friday with some help.

need to scrounge up a d16z6 arp headstud though! anybody got one lying around i can take off of their hands?

I hope you didnt get the badlanzehpe exhaust cutout yet...........I had one and theyre GARBAGE! The soddered connections are like crappo radioshack male/female connections and the will MELT in a week.......I had em on my GReddy 19T D16Z6 and it lasted 3 weeks........when I contacted them for warrenty replacement they wouldnt cover it..............DONT GET IT F THAT GUY!!!!!!!!!!! Electronic exhaust cutouts suck.......just get a manual one if you really want it.........or run a custom 3 inch exhaust......its just as good.

well crap, i read good reviews on em... i was going to run a rubber apoxy around all the elictral connectors for some extra sealer.

were you opening it up under load? its way hard on the motor if you are trying to open them while cruising, have to shift into neutral and let the rpms fall from what i read

thx for the heads up though, ill just turn it into a manuel one if it gets shot, doesnt take to much to throw a 3 bolt plate on and take it off every time i want to run with it..

dang near got the motor out last night, got stuck on the ball joints and it was 4am so we just called it a night, half hour more and we will be drilling out the venom intake manifold and hooking up the vacuum lines to it..

by the end of the day the motor should be in and runing, well give her a test fire and then begin the turbo install

booost goal::::: wednesday

power goal::::: 300whp on mustang dyno

awesome didder, can't wait to see the full project done.

oh the garage, where optimism is broken and dreams are shattered...

you suck mossy lol

well, pulled the motor, pulled apart the tranny, and tried to assemble some misc stuff on the new block,

IT ALL WENT TO HELL

venom mani was tweaked for the fuel rail bracket, i had teh WRONG headstuds, there was an 1/8" gap between the block and oil pan behind the underdrive pulley, and to top it off, the motor didnt have a dipstick hole!

we put the motor back togeather and the tranny wouldnt shift, tweaked a bracket inside, so we had to pull the s.o.b. again and fix everything, i couldnt even install my lsd because i couldnt get the bearings and speedo gear pressed on without ruining htem and that would take days to order.... so my tranny got torn apart twice, on the bright side, ITS SQUEAKY CLEAN

so we were gonna boost the stock motor and wired up injectors and installed clutch, turns out my compression went from 7% off to 140-160-180-200 in 3 months! i been running so lean my plugs looked like they had salt on them..

so in the end, we pulled a motor reinstalled it, pulled a tranny completely apart twice and installed it twice, and in the end what do i get? besides two broken engine mounts on drivers side?

550cc injectors on a 440cc basemap, and a 500hp action clutch, and a damn clean transmission.

imgonna get the venom mani machined to fit my fuel rail, by the new piece i need for the underdrive pulley (with a dipstick hole), get 10 z6 headstuds, and by my bearings and speedo gear for the lsd and get those pressed on...

i paid my buddies 600 bucks to install a clutch, injectors, fuel pump, ecu, and to clean my transmission.... GREAT WEEK

and to top it all off, i left mossy hanging for like half hour by himself in a mcdonalds parking lot while i was at a tuner shop, lol

good game to me

damn man, sorry it went so bad. kep truckin though because when the motors in and running you will be happy you stuck with it

Well, since the failed install attempt i became a little frusterated, looked at my build for a VERY long time and added a couple key ingrediants.

updated page 1 to see what else i will be throwing in [8D]

to much dang money spent on this car close to 13 grand now and its still got body work and a paint job coming

20k ek coupe coming at you soon

p.s. Ractivate this dang thread people, i want your advice and criticism, give it to me now! lol... i need to know what your opinons are on how the list looks and what you think i could need.

thx

I think you need to stop worrying about your inactive thread and finish this damn thing:)

When you get around to doing your LSD the right way, would you mind snapping a few pix along the way to help me out when I do mine? I have ZERO experience inside a tranny and I need all the help I can get.

lol greddy, i got real tired of spending $$$ and my girl friend has decided after 3 years that she HATES the idea of me building a civic, shes all like, "just by an s4" and im all like "its a pride thing now muffin". getting back into things though, just bought a new set of apc m3 mirrors, i think they alright, hope there not to ricey [&:]

and most definately i will kok, it blew my mind the first attempt, its pretty scary..

go find yourself some differential bearings before you install it though, and make sure you have a competant machinest who can salvage the speedo gear after its pressed off your stocker.

ORIGINAL: didder

and most definately i will kok, it blew my mind the first attempt, its pretty scary..


That line made me laugh...meh good luck, keep us updated! Im startin a boost project this week, hopin for 180 to the wheels, but gotta research clutches first. Good luck!

Time for a n/a K-series???
jk you have come too far with the D, keep it up and Good luck
i give anyone who builds a D crazy credit (like bisimoto :D)
im taking the easy way out and swaping a B-series...

hey greddy, if you lookin at clutches to go with action, my 500hp capable 2md clutch is heavenly, the pedal pressure is not even hard... i suggest the 1md for you, go to garage-life.com and email him and he will hook you up PERFECT.

as for an update, i purchased a high performance oil pump to replace the little bastard that didnt have a dipstick, it claims to put out 30% more than stock so that will be great, also purchased a camber kit, noticed my winter tires are totally rubbed hard on the inside, so that will help out my traction difficulties... also bought a engine stand, so soon as that comes ill throw the new block up on and start installing stuff and post up pictures ;)

bidding on the z6 headstuds, hoping to get them under 90...

btw, if anyone is swapping a d16y8 head onto a d16z6 block and needs head studs give me a hollar ill sell the studs cheap, because i will have 9 y8 and 1 z6 left over and thats what you will need, cuz iwill be using9 z6 and 1 y8 lol...

hope your scared mossy, my little mexican rust bucket is going to eat your red rocket for lunch this spring on the streets of minneapolis [sm=badbadbad.gif]

Yea, Aaron was tellin me about htem. He told me to pm a guy on ht and when i did, he said hes not selling them anymore, ill check out that site though. thanks bro. Any updateS?

I tried that site, didnt work for me.

admin@garage-life.com thats his email, tell him your looking at the 1md and 1ms clutches, tell him about your turbo set up etc... he will send you the link you need, hes awesome and will answer EVERYTHING. you can also find him on honda-tech in the sales section, just type in action clutches for a search under the turbo parts forum... other good sellers ive dealt with are, rogueusa.com (cheapest garrett turbos i could find, and they will match any price) and fast-turbo.com, awesome oil lines, couplers, clamps, piping, etc...

i basically shopped honda-tech for the best deals for like a year now lol..

Didder, your email thinger doesnt work either...You fail on linking:)

at least i try :(

youre fired...I cant find any sellers on ht that still sell them

i just bought mine like 3 or 4 months ago, did you email him??? the email wasnt supposed to be linked, just giving you his email to ask him to hook you up lol...

i would be very upset if they stopped producingaction clutches, im absolutely in LOVE wiht mine

no, i sent an email to that address you posted, and it came back "The following recipient(s) could not be reached:admin@garage-life.com on 3/24/2008 4:40 PM"

omg, bought my headstuds, didnt check part # and ended up with another set of z6 studs when i needed y8's.. LOL

got my engine stand, my apocolypse oil pump, and my new g2 mirrors.

the mirrors look ricey, but i broke my stock on off, had to replace it with something cheap and easy, so hey, whatever. $35 you cant go wrong am i right?

im looking a bolt size, the transmission to block bolt, im going to need that in order to mount my motor to the engine stand.. any help on that would be great, once mounted ill throw on my new oil pump, and snap some pics of it so you can all druel over its shiny redness and newness [sm=bling.gif]

wait youre runnin a y8 right? why didnt you just get the oil pump shimmed and ported? cheaper and does the same thing a lot of "aftermarket" pumps do

this ones calibrated, and they do a million of them, so i felt like id be safer with it. it was probably 50 bucks more than if i bought oem and had it shimmed and ported..

i just felt safer doing it this way.

i guess, since you said youre gonna be pushin 400+ hopefully...im only aimin for 250ish

mehh, 400+ is to hard on motor without sleeves, im shooting for 300+ on mustang dyno (about 345ish on a regular dynomometer)

but that will still put me in the 11's hopefully with the full throttle shift and all the traction crap i bought. [sm=badbadbad.gif]

i stopped rememberin what you were doin to this...its been so long since it was started and all:D

look at page 1, its kinda gone bigger than i wanted...

original setup was 8lbs of boost shooting for 180-190whp on stock d16y8

now its fully built bottom, top, every traction upgrade i can think of,and anything that can help efficiancy and or durability of the build. shooting for 300+whp

did you think about block guard? not as good as sleeving but if you do it right, you wont contrict flow too awfully bad

block gaurd already pressed in place my friend ;), only thing the entire motor is missing for beefiness is the sleeves.

youre skimpin out on me here! cheap *ss[:'(]

ok i know ive said this a hundred times... but its almost done.

install is going down on the 16th, i just need to order up some differential bearings for the obx lsd and get my synchro gears to start the install. i will be breaking in the motor for 500 miles on the chrome basemap (watching my a/f's VERY closely and putting in a 4 pound spring) then ill purchase the s300 and get err tuned to hopefully 340+whp...

Wish me luck

damn she is gunna be screammmminnnnnnnggggggg

dropped the motor in! installed the turbo kit! STILL NOT RUNNING!!!

missing2 key component parts including:
-d16z6 vtec sylenoid (ordered today)
-we broke the return oil line from turbo!!!! so im figuring out a solution
-broke the old speedo gear, going to run a gps instead, but it still is gay!

everything else was "ok" i suggest to everyone, DO NOT buy a venom intake manifold, unless you are a machinest / metal fabber / mechanic, we had a day of problems with this thing trying to fab stuff up to make mounts fit/ hoses fit etc...

ill post pictures on tues

ALMOST THERE

ooo im excited what a sleeper i love it

yup, went to hardware store and picked up the few clamps / bolts i needed (needed bolts for throttle position sensor and some clamps for misc hoses)...

i gotta figure out one thing about the oil return line now though, how the f*** am i going to get it to fit lol?

the oil return line, ugh, i just wrapped about a half inch of leather around it, talked to fast-turbo.net and they are sending me a replacement so i can run the steal braided, what i have "SHOULD" work for now.

my distributor didnt work, didnt realize the obd2b harness wouldnt wire up to the obd1 distributor, just ordered a conversion plug today, should be here wednesday..

START UP UPON ARIVAL OF HARNESS

p.s. i tried uploading some pics but everythings all screwy and making it hard for me to do it... they are in my photo gallery, but for some reason the photo gallery isnt working for me, maybe youll have better luck :Denjoy

yea, its not workin for me either....so im callin shenanigans:)

good luck man i'm praying for you:D

[sm=gears.gif]

got the pics to work in thread, just some teasers like i said, real ones will come when i get the piping mounted correctly and everything complete.

http://www.hondacivicforum.com/upfiles/20779/asppg_Ml290986854.jpg
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/upfiles/20779/asppg_Ip816072130.jpg
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/upfiles/20779/asppg_Qb871576208.jpg

p.s. keep praying live, and everyone else i need it