DiDDeRs D-Series Turbo Project (pics page 23) (Full Version)

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DiDDeRs D-Series Turbo Project (pics page 23)

didder -> DiDDeRs D-Series Turbo Project (pics page 23) (6/25/2007 5:03:13 PM)
well i have changed my turbo build dramatically over the past 6 months and its become something to be awe inspired over [;)]. going with a fully built d16 motor swap instead of running the stock D, maxxing out 550cc injectors to get me as much whp as i can on 92 octane pump gas. once the turbo build completes ill move onto the exterior mods (cant have an extremely fast car without it looking cool lol) BLUE = Purchased heres what im running so far on my 99 ex (120xxx miles). -Apexi Ws2 catback Exhaust $420 -ebay high flow cat (bolt on test pipe) $$25 -Ebay short shifter & Energy Suspension Bushings $$40 -17" black on crome RSL rims with lexani tires $$725 The Turbo Setup: -turbo manifold, downpipe, dumptube (sovs setup off his stock d16) $$420 -Garret t3/t40E Ball bearing turbo 50 trim .63 a/r (posting pics when upon arrival!!) $$975 -AEM Filter (stealing it off my CAI) $00 -Tial 38mm wastegate $$205 -Godspeed Intercooler kit w/ 2.5" piping and bar and plate intercooler $$350 -Tial 50mm BOV $$200 -Fast-Turbo oil line kit w/ oil restrictor $$104 -Glowshift Oil pressure / Boost pressure gauges and gauge cluster $$100 -Oil Sandwhich Adaptor $$35 -obd2b-obd1 conversion harness $$75 -p28 chipped ecu $$175 -Fast-Turbo Vacuum Manifold $$40 -RC 550 Fuel Injectors with injector clips (plug and play ftw!) $$279.00 (+ Case of Beer + Pack Of Camels) -Action 2MS Sprung clutch (resurfaced stock flywheel) $$375.95 -NGK BRK7E Spark Plugs $$17 -Vacuum Lines -misc bolts / clamps / vacuum lines / bungs $$60++ goodies to help engine run efficiant: -Hondata S300 with boost control upgrade $$800 -ARP Headstuds $$200 (d16z6 and y8) -Walbro 255lph Fuel pump $$103.50 -Weapon Type-R Catch Can $$50.00 -HKS Type 1 Turbo timer & Wiring harness -BadlanzHPE 2.5" Electric Exhaust Cutout $$175 -Mishimoto radiator / slim fan / radiator hoses $$299.99 -Motorola 2.5 Bar Map Sensor $$38 -AEM Air / Fuel Guage and Bosch UEGO Sensor $$220 -Apocolypse Turbo Oil Pump $$187 (comes ported, shimmed and calibrated) -Synchro Rings $$115 -obd2b to obd1 distributor adaptor harness $$40 -new oem distributor $$135 -nology external 45 volt coil pack / cap / rotor $130 -new throttle position sensor $$35 -obd2b-obd1 distributor conversion harness $$35 -used pgm-fi main relay $$20 Whats gonna keep my wheels from spinning and on the ground: -NRG engine damper $89 -Skunk2 Full coilovers $535 -EDT Traction Control Bars $215 -Poly Engine Mount Inserts $31.99 -OBX Helical LSD $$378 -Blox Racing Front + Rear Camber Kit $$136 -New Differential Bearings & Axle Seals $$101.14 -Anti-Sway Bars -JDM Motor Mounts $$161.49 D16z6 Head D16Y8 Block: $$3000 (still owe a grand lol, but i own it i swear) Headwork Done- -skunk2 stage 1 cam -aem cam gear -ksm springs / valves / retainers -3 angle port and polish -resurfaced deck -venom intake manifold -62mm bbk throttle body Blockwork Done- -Wiseco 9:5-1 Pistons -Aluminum Block Gaurd -Eagle rods -alluminum Race bearings -bored and honed Spent On Performance Upgrades To Date: TO MUCH! Exterior Mods, keepin it simple: -Paint 2 match oem front bumper $$168.88 -Paint 2 match oem front right fender $$130 -Halo Projector Lights + Titanium Smoked Fogs $$168.98 -APC G2 M3 Style Mirrors $$40 -ebay type r lip -Nopi Cannards -Oem tinted tails $$93.99 -some body work and touch up paint! -30% window tint all around (need estimate) Spent On Exterior Modifications: Not Enough [:(] I will update with pictures and ask questions as i start finishing my setup. any help on what i could improve on or what im missing would be extremely beneficial, its the reason im posting so please, criticize me, i wont take offense to it as long as its positive and not just flaming me. thx guys -DiDDeR

dfdon -> RE: DiDDeR's D-Series Turbo Project (6/25/2007 5:10:36 PM)
make sure to get a harness for that turbo timer makes it so much easier especially if its the full auto timer

SovXietday -> RE: DiDDeR's D-Series Turbo Project (6/25/2007 6:03:35 PM)
Crome will be more than fine for you. Glad to help bud. Oh, one thing I forgot to mention in the email. Make sure that your turbo has a 4 bolt exhaust outlet, most come with them just double check from your seller. [:)] Otherwise, everything looks good so far!

didder -> RE: DiDDeR's D-Series Turbo Project (6/26/2007 6:09:11 PM)
think i might get an act cluch instead of exedy, save some cash lol, when a clutch says holds 285ft lbs that means ft lbs of torque right? and would a clutch company rate there products at the wheel or at the crank?i never plan on exceeding 200wtq so i think i would be fine with the (ACT heavy duty clutch kit. says it hold 285ft lbs and clamps 20-50% harder) or if im pushing 220 whp should i go with the (ACT Extreme clutch kit, it hold 270ft lbs but clamps 50-120% harder) i dont know what would be better for my turbo setup. boost wont be hit till around 4000 rpm so i dont know if i need the clamp load for the launch. but i have no idea [&:] lol. i have a machinest friend who will shave my flywheel for free, is a stock flywheel shaved down more reliable than say a fidanza? and can i shave it to basically any weight i desire? say 9lbs? cuz if i can shave my stock FW to 9lbs and keep it reliable i will, but if its not as durable as the 7lb fidanza then ill go with the fidanza. one more thing, if i do go with a super light flywheel would my car not like driving on the freeway as much... i drive 45 minutes of freeway a day so that is kind of a big deal if it affects that aspect. i dont mind the decelerating faster than usual but would my car cruise the same or would it need to work harder. thats kind of the reason i would shave my stock FW to 9-10 lbs just for that little extra weight for freeway driving.

red2000Si -> RE: DiDDeR's D-Series Turbo Project (6/26/2007 8:16:05 PM)
I dont think you can really "shave" your flywheel to a certain weight. I would just get it resurfaced and spend the extra money in other places. You really wont notice enough of a difference for the money. You will be fine with either act clutch. They dont really make a clutch that doesnt hold a lot of power. I would just be careful with the disk itself. You probably want the organic disk instead of an unsprung puck disk unless you really like a chattery rough engagement. You probably wont use the extra bite of a puck disk.

johnny -> RE: DiDDeR's D-Series Turbo Project (6/27/2007 6:06:55 PM)
Well, im not knowledgable about clutches at all. But this looks like a great build, and your in good hands thanks to SovXietDay. Can't wait,.

SovXietday -> RE: DiDDeR's D-Series Turbo Project (6/27/2007 9:48:53 PM)
Might I suggest the Action clutches? www.garage-life.com Email their sales depertment, I've bought a lot of stuff from them and they're a great bunch of guys, always ship my stuff out super fast! When you email them, tell them what your plans are and they'll recommend you a clutch, it will probably be the 1MS/1MD. 1MS being sprung, 1MD being unsprung (I like unsprung, gives a nice feel to the clutch). If you get a flywheel, make sure it is STEEL! I wouldn't worry about it though, I just take a softer grinding pad to the flywheel and roughen it up a bit, aka "resurface" it. I wouldn't shave the stock flywheel... I've seen far far too many of them splitting into 5-6 pieces and splintering through every aspect of a car at a few hundred miles an hour. [&:] When a flywheel explodes it will destroy your entire car. Oh, and if you get your manifold that I sent you before I get my ECU back, I'm gonna be ULTRA pissed (but happy for you haha).

johnny -> RE: DiDDeR's D-Series Turbo Project (6/28/2007 9:03:38 AM)
quote: ORIGINAL: SovXietday I've seen far far too many of them splitting into 5-6 pieces and splintering through every aspect of a car at a few hundred miles an hour. [&:] When a flywheel explodes it will destroy your entire car. I saw that happen to a skyline on TurboD16.com, woah it was nasty. It was a rightoff I think.

didder -> RE: DiDDeR's D-Series Turbo Project (6/28/2007 6:33:43 PM)
so instead of getting new flywheel i can just give mine a quick sanding with a grinding pad? wow, too easy i can do that.. just installing the clutch gonna be the hard part... all dayer im assuming and yes sov, i did recieved it at 330 today right as i got off work... ran to the sandblasting room, sandblasted them and laughed at your o2 sensor weld and ground that off and rewelded it. then i headed over to napa where i bought some 1200-2000degree black ceramic paint and painted them.. they look brand new thx man. one question, on the downpipe you beat the piss out of it in one spot? was that to make it fit around something? and thank you in advance if it fits around that same thing when i install it on mine lol.. ill post up some pictures of your old setup this weekend when i get to my other computer, they look 100% brand new, i couldnt be happier thx sov. and as for the clutch, ill go with the action just cuz you havent been wrong about anything so far. so im all ears on your advice [8D] keep the advice coming guys thx

SovXietday -> RE: DiDDeR's D-Series Turbo Project (6/28/2007 10:23:13 PM)
I had to bang that little bit there in order to fit my oil lines in. When you route your oil lines, make sure you have EVERYTHING bolted in so that you know what's going on, I didn't lol. Oh, and I'm not the one who welded that O2 sensor lol, it's ghetto but it worked quite well. Can't wait to see some pics!

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