hey whats up everyone....the only thing i really care about in my civic is sound..i got a 15" audiobahn sub it sound loud in the car but doesnt really bump when you listen to it from outside the car.........i want real loud bass that you can feel in the ground from far away....but i cant find any sub that runs a higher RMS wattage than this one..im not really happy with it so far....i have a custom made box and an amp with more than enough power does anyone have any suggestions on another single 15" sub that will really knock hard?
thanks for your help!!

what amp do you have and just so you know that box more than likely will not work for the new sub

Marty is right. There really is no such thing as a generic box that fits all, so the box you have now will only really work on that sub. if you want a good powerful woofer, you need to look at much more than just RMS power, you need to see you efficient it is (measured in decibels), magnet structure and size, and the type of box used. If you want to hear it outside of the car, you need a lot of power in a ported box more than likely. You want a larger magnet, higher efficiency along with RMS power. Basically RMS power does not equal volume... BTW, how much power are you giving your woofer RMS?

Wow.

Ported, 30-32hz will get **** shaking. Efficieny don't mean ****, and well RMS doesn't mean too much either. Tell me you rprice range for sub and amp and we will take it from there.

So if efficiecny doesnt mean ****? For every 3dB of difference in efficiency, the amount of wattage that you need to play at the same volume doubles or is cut in half. For example, all other things are equal, a subwoofer with an 89dB efficiency rating needs 200 watts of power to play at the same volume that a subwoofer with an efficiency rating of 92dB with only 100 watts going to it... so if you want to hear more bass... have a more efficient sub... simply put

kicker l7 with a ported box to specs with at least 500rms u will shake the heck outa alot of thing

i got a hifonics mono block class d brutus amp running 1600 rms...but for hifonics i'd say its more realistically 1200-1300 wats rms...im also running 4 gauge instead of zero gauge and i know that has to make a bit of difference...

Go with the bigger gauge for the power if you can. Also you should look into getting a cap for your system; it’s like an insurance policy for your amp. It can also make it sound a little better if you play it loud all the time. If you want to really pound with that amp, you should think about getting two Kicker Solo-baric L7 12s. You can go ported or sealed with these woofers and they will pound pretty damn hard. you could also go with 2 Rockford Fosgate T210D series in a ported box. Just be sure to have a box made out of 3/4 inch MDF with caulked seals. Either of these setups will really hit hard and loud , but they will cost a few dollars, so what is your price range?
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=4&series_id=32&family_i d=13&item_id=91845&locale=en_US&p_status=
http://www.kicker.com/06/kicker_home.html

ORIGINAL: the727kid

Wow.

Ported, 30-32hz will get **** shaking. Efficieny don't mean ****, and well RMS doesn't mean too much either. Tell me you rprice range for sub and amp and we will take it from there.



WTF!!!!!!!!!! RMS DOESNT MEAN ANYTHING......................
what the F*** you smoking??????????? RMS POWER MEANS EVERYTHING!!!!!!
those 3 letters mean ALOT!!!!! any amplifier manufacture can slap on a 5,000 WATTS on thier box and it realy only puts out 1Kwatts... hell my old GOOD ORION 2500D was a 2500watt RMS amplifier but they still said 5K watts on thier amplifiers! just cause most people dont know WHAT "RMS" means!!!!
the next realy important thing for a system is the box.... air space..... and if ported the port area as well....

ported will always sound louder inside the car BUT not as tight of bass... but for the louder bass its a small sacrifice to pay!

thanks guys.....i dunno bout the kickers L7' 12" i had 2 of them in my toyota and blew em both.....theyre good but i feel like poeple hype em up too much.....my boy just put a L7 15" in his accord it does sound pretty good im thinking about maybe just getting on of those and a new box....i can keep my same amp and cap cuz the L7 15" runs about 1000 watts rms so my mono shold be just fine.....thanks for the clarification addiction2bass i always look at the rms power...a sub or amp might say 1000watts max...but that dont mean ****....anyway thanks for all your help..HCF is always helpin me out in some way...lol

ORIGINAL: Crutchfield (http://www.crutchfield.com/ISEO-rgbtcspd/learningcenter/car/amplifiers_glossary.html)

RMS Power vs. Peak Power
The amount of continuous power, measured in watts, that an amplifier produces is called RMS power. The higher the RMS figure, the louder and cleaner your music sounds. When choosing an amplifier, the RMS rating is the power rating you should pay most attention to. Also, keep in mind that some manufacturers calculate the RMS power ratings of their amplifiers at different input voltages. For example, an amplifier rated at 100 watts RMS at 12 volts can produce considerably more power than an amp rated at 100 watts RMS at the more typical 14.4 volts. Stereo manufacturers often display peak power ratings on the face of their products. The peak power rating tells you the maximum wattage an amplifier can deliver as a brief burst during a musical peak, like a dramatic drum accent. The RMS figure is more significant.


For loud pronounced bass I'd head for a band pass box. Yes it's not the best box or set up BUT if you want to let the world know you're coming it's the best set up that doesn't require alot of work. I say this because I used to have a 93 grand caravan with 2 12" subs in a band pass box tuned mega low running about 250rms and I got told by one brother that he knew I had arrived because the 50' front glass wall at his work would start vibrating from my bass, that was with the van parked a good 60+ feet from the front of the building.....

I personally look for clarity and loud in the car and don't worry too much about broadcasting to the world..... well beyond the worry of annoying a cop :D

ya bandpass boxes typicaly are the best BUT they are very specific for that subwoofer!

bandpass boxes sound better in trucks that dont have a trunk. Most of the bass will stay in the trunk if you run it in a car.

sorry but IMO band pass's are complete junk

A band pass can be very good boxes if they are made just right... but you would need a woofer that is meant for a band pass box...

ya id have to agree.... BUT if your not making the box to SPEC for that subwoofer setup well THEN ITS JUNK!
id never run a bandpass box UNLESS it was designed FOR that subwoofer setup!
like my REALY OLD audiobahn loaded bandpass box... it sounded realy nice..... BUT those prefab bandpass boxes that come empty... DONT EVEN THINK ABOUT IT!!!!!!

sealed boxes are VERY FORGIVING!!!!!!! ported boxes are alittle tickier... but bandpass boxes are VERY SPECIFIC!!!

ive heard alot about some ABC boxes sounding great BUT never tried one.... to specific for me to wanna design and build!

I still say go ported. If you want to hear the bass from far away, your best option is a well built ported box. They are more efficient than a sealed, but easier to buld than a band pass... I've built countless boxes, so if you can read the T/S numbers or the recommended specs, you can have a great box.

Remember folks, I did say "it's not the best box/set up", I only suggested it because it's cheap bass and they project bass damn well. My personal choice for boxes is always seal, I like the simplicity of them and that I don't always need a huge box to get good output.


I actually had 2 12"s (volfenhag ebay subs) in a 2 cu/ft common chamber box running like 200~250rms and I blew my buddies ear drum.... but I have a feeling that was also due to the fact that the subs were in the back of a square body mini van and only the front windows were open.... ah the good ol days lol [8D]

just so you see what im working with so far...

local://upfiles/12706/0ABBE70F3E65415E92BC944AB36EEC1F.jpg

Most 15" subs don't have a large XMAX which is the voice coil movement. Your better off using a high quality 11-12" sub like JL Audio W-7. I would rather have dual 10's then 1-15" sub. Just make sure you have a high quality CLEAN amp and MAKE sure you use a cap. A MUST for real bass.

A sealed box is great, but you need DOUBLE the watts to get the same output of a ported box. A ported box is the best for big bass, as long as you buy a great/clean big amp and use a cap. Bandpass boxes are awesome, but require perfect design/build. I have built about 20 subs using Bassbox 6.0 and proper designs. Some subs require a sealed box, while others require a ported box. I suggest JL Audio W-7 woofers/ported.

LMFAO another believe the hip bass head........

very typical..... ROCK NOTHING BUT JLaudio AND MUST USE A CAP..... LMFAO

caps dont help ANYTHING!!!!! if anything they hurt your system more than they help! be a real man and either upgrade the alternator to a high output alternator OR buy more batteries! use something that either MAKES POWER OR STORES POWER!

not trying to be an @ss or anything even tho im sure it sounds like it ;)
but its all well know fact CAPS dont help anything...... dont believe me????????? go to the next stereo competition where the loudest of DB competitors are and check out their systems!!!!!! you wont find a ONE CAPACITOR! youll see highoutput alternators and MULTIPLE batteries.....

BUT if you wanna waste money on a cap still..... go ahead its just a waste/paperweight......

You know, if I was not so lazy I could honestly pick apart damn near every post in this thread and point out a number of flaws in everyones statements. Like I said I'm lazy, so maybe later.

well... is it later yet? lol Capacitors do help (the life of your battery and amp) if your amp cannot pull sufficient ower from your alternator/batteries at a given moment, but if you are going to play them loud for a long time, do what addiction said, upgrade your alternater and batteries, because that will be your best bet.

ya but capacitors dont make or store that much power.... i could fart longer than a capacitor can hold a charge.... it takes 2-3seconds to charge a decent size 1farad cap.... with a test light.... and can you realy say that that LITTLE ammount of power can help anything?

a highoutput alternator is your best option! lets face it hondas got THE CRAPPIEST BABY 70amp alternator STOCK... and a BABY BATTERY with very little CCA and reserve power..... if you upgrade the alternator and the battery or even a second battery in the trunk that will help ATON MORE than some little capacitor could ever!

upgrade right the first time and forget about it! otherwise ya just wasted 100bucks for a capacitor... when that 100bucks coulda gone into a new battery.... or half of a highpower alternator...

WOW. Have been to sound offs and also have many friends with systems that MOVE pavement. NONE of them have huge batts or alternators. Just a big cap or 2. Caps DO WORK. I remember 20 years ago when caps didn't exist, and many had big batts and alternators. Nothing like the bass in cars today. Think what you want, I don't really care. If you don't want to mess around with expensive batteries and alternators, just get a good amp and a cap. Enough said.

ORIGINAL: JD 2007

WOW. Have been to sound offs and also have many friends with systems that MOVE pavement. NONE of them have huge batts or alternators. Just a big cap or 2. Caps DO WORK. I remember 20 years ago when caps didn't exist, and many had big batts and alternators. Nothing like the bass in cars today. Think what you want, I don't really care. If you don't want to mess around with expensive batteries and alternators, just get a good amp and a cap. Enough said.



SHOW ME THEN........... cause im calling out ALL BS!!!!!!!!!!
look at REAL COMPETITION VEHICLES!!!!!!!!! ALL BATTERIES>>>>> MULTIPLE HIGHPOWER ALTERNATORS.... and not even a 0.5farad cap in site!!!!!!
its for a reason... TO MAKE POWER YOU NEED POWER! do you realy thing a capacitor makes power?
do more research! and proce your point! i can point you in any true competitors corner and you can see yourself... but when yoru young ANY system sounds like its PAVEMENT POUNDING!!!!!!! LOL

https://ssl.perfora.net/www.ficaraudio.com/sess/utn;jsessionid=15450c16a383bd3/shopdata/product_overview.shopscript
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=34&Itemi d=1

FIND ME A SYSTEM THAT CAN DO THAT AND DOESNT USE multiple batteries or highpower alternators! TRUST ME YOUR NOT GOING TO FIND ANY!!!
do your research MEADE is DEFINATLY a EXTREMLY COMPETITIVE BUILDER! and does SOME NICE SICK WORK!
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/images/Diagram1-1.jpg

including his SUPER SICK CIVIC!

A cap discharges far to quickly to do anything, larger subs do not have a lower xmax all the time and even when they do it does not matter as it is all about moving air. A single 15 inch sub will diplace as much air as 2 12 inch subs of the same make/level. Ported boxes are far more effeiciant than any other type of box, a "ABC" box generally has a wider range of freq that it will play at a higher level but is a little more peaky than a sealed box. A bandpass is a sloppy ass high bass note wonder, the bl curve with even a well designed bandpass is very peaky and the peak more times than not occures above 45hz.

Amps do not supply clean or dirty signal, I dont care how cheap. Now cheaper ones do not do what they say they will as far as power and on a whole even most that work at audio shops do not know how to properly tune a amp. The only 2 specs on a amp as far as dead set features that need to have attention payed to them other than the RMS rating is the dampening factor and the signal to noise ratio. Class d amps for the most part are low dampening amps with alower signal to noise ratio. They are in a sense a efficiant power supply that does not generate as much heat as a class a/b amp but they are also alot less precise amps as far as filtering noise out of your system. The only clas d amps I know of on the market as far as mass produced, easily found and bought status are JL Audio amps which have fixed power supplies and do not fluctuate the power given on different ohm loads.

Hifonics has good amps for the money and with that amount of power it depends on what you want to spend on a sub. Those amps make their power at 1ohm so you need a dual 2 ohm sub. I think you need to take a look at re audio and look at the RE MX 12 as it will take the power and only needs 1.5 to 2cu ft ported and get it tuned to 28 to 32hz. It will hit hard, last long, get low, and be a great sub.

Very nice diagram. Must be crack dealers with gold teeth and crooked baseball caps.

that just shows your foolishness!!!!!! meade is a very nice guy thats a hard worker! more of a workaholic id say ;) cause after he does his DAILY JOB work... he comes home to building up some sweet @ss vehicles in his spare time!
check out his web site!
http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/

if you was anybody youd know that meade does the sweetest system instals!!!!!
dont be mad that your a JL freak and love caps......
if you wanna waste money then go right ahead. but i hate it when people say that JL is the ONLY good system equipment out thier and you need a capacitor.... dont get me wrong the HIGH MODEL of JL equipment is nice... but also OVERPRICED for the typical basshead. but no capacitor in the world can replace a highpower alternator and more batteries! only thing CLOSE to a capacitor that ive heard actualy working decent in combination with a highpower alternator is some BATCAPS. tho ive never personaly used one of them thats just what ive heard is they work preaty good mainly thier battery/cap pieces in one unit... but ill still stick to my YOU NEED POWER TO MAKE POWER...... alternators MAKE POWER for batteries to HOLD the power. whats a cap do. pisses on a forest fire..... doesnt effect anything to realy help! may look like it helps but FAR from geting the job done!
think about it... if the amp PULLS juice from the cap... whats the cap gotta do next?????? anyone got the answer.....? its just been drained....... ok ya give up ;) it has to recharge!!!!! so while its RECHARGING its STARVING the amplifier of power... which inturn gives you the ILLUSION that its keeping your voltage up and lights from dimming but realy its just keeping the voltage down alittle so the lights dont seem to be FULLY LITE and then dimmed...

just go to your next local LARGE SPL comp and ask the BIG BOY BASSHEADS why they dont use a trunk full of capacitors instead of batteries..... tho ya might get laughed at.... ;)

addiction to bass is right. I have a huge stereo system background. Caps only store energy for huge hits. Like when you use peak power of the amp(which is damn near never) it reacts then. Batteries and higher amp alternators are BY FAR the better route. If you say otherwise you DEF have never used one in a real system.

Want more bass? ditch the audiobahn. Kickers are a good sub. Alot of bass little wattage(effeciency). I used audiobahns for awhile. Flaming Qs, immortals, etc etc. They are like hifonics subs. they slap huge numbers on them and hope for the best. IMO JL is overpriced. Get MA or Massive is good. Addiction2bass seems to know his crap. what do you use? Right now I am running 2 HK120XC. 600 rms and they still sound better than my old flaming Qs rated at 1200w rms. People look at the numbers in wattage. Big mistake. Sadly systems will always be trail and error.

Alot of people take too much time to look at the big picture. Sometimes they buy a nice sub and a custom box but a pyramid amp. Or underpower a sub. Companies for amps subs and box manufactures will help you get the best matches for your stuff. Take everything into consideration. A sick sub will sound like arse in a partical board box. 3/4" mdf and seal it up. THEN worry about ports. If your box is leaking like a an old hose then it ruins the system.

Lastly, bro who the heck cares what it sounds like outside? Its guys like you who give guys with civics and mitsu's a bad name. Most guys use dynamat or sound deadening to help PREVENT outside noise. I HATE it when a kid rolls by in a civic with his hubcaps off and an exhuast leak and all I hear is a faint bump of 50cent "in da club" followed by massive rattle of his plate falling off....just my $.02

ya i care ALOT about outside noise..... rattles SUCK!!!!!!

now im not saying im a pro.... but i have been puting my own systems together for about 10years now... started out doing all stupid crap... and within the last 5years ive been reading ALOT and built alot since then... alot of it is puting it together...

and one thing ive DEFINATLY LEARNED over the years... its the little things that can bit you in the @ss and make a EXPENSIVE system not preform. main thing is the ohm load match up...... and second important is the box! everythings gotta be matched up right.

tho ive used audiobahn before... thats what i started out on... not to bad but i had quite a bit of problems with tensils fraying. but nothing a touch of solder couldnt fix. decent stuff im not gonna dog it.....
the one brand that i will NEVER USE again is power acoustic! i had about 5of thier amps all different models and i fried EVERYONE OF THEM! some fried and 1 of them just stoped working! no reason! ive had all kinds of amplifiers and thats the ONLY amps ive ever fried besides my old orion 2500D due to voltage diping under 10volts before i upgraded the trucks alt to a high 250amp output alternator then i had no problems!


tho one thing i will PERSONALY NEVER DO is NEVER tell someone to use a brand or model equipment that i havent used personaly! i know ALOT OF PEOPLE SAY RUN "JL" and have NEVER USED THIER equipment.....
i have people ask me all the time what about this one sub.... well if i havent used it i wont comment on it! and tho i havent had JL personaly i have had friends that had them that i helped instal and listen to but for the price.... thiers just beter bass for the buck out thier...

Better get a Turbo to offset all the weight. Silly. Why not get a real long extension cord. Alot lighter then all those batteries.

well im not rocken a turbo and my automatic is just as fast with my full stereo.... its only 100pounds more weight and if your into a race car then you shouldnt have a system anyways.LOL
but at least your not saying a CAP will solve all problems anymore ;)

dude.. i wish i knew what you know (Addiction) and HOLY FUK that tahoe is intense

thats not my setup! id love to run something that huge BUT i DEFINATLY dont have that kinda money!!!!!!!!

but systems are just like anything else... motors/turbos/ body work. ANYTHING...
its all about buying and trying... looking at others and reading/asking for advice... ya just have to be willing to learn and do some research yourself...
i still get PMs and email from people asking me to build them a system and how to instal it BUT i can help.. im not gonna do it all.LOL so most the time i ignore those messages.LOL

plus personal preferences is 90%.......

haha i know its not your seetup haha i just need to start readin up on this stuff im not all that great at knowin all the ohms and all the decible talk and stuff yet.. just started with stereos last year haha do you know that guy with the taho personally tho?

nope not personaly but ive followed quite a few of his BUILD threads on several forums!
started with my old trucks when i started being a fan with him remolding his dash.

I just can't see adding all kinds of weight to a little car. Maybe a better amp for the 4 speakers and 1 quality sub with a good amp. Many of my friends want more speed from their cars, but add 200# to the weight of the cars with so much crap. Then add a muffler thinking it will help. NOT.

200pounds...... my main system only weighs
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/addiction2bass/NEW%2099%20Civic%20EX/New%20sub%20box/BUILDday4002.jpg
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/addiction2bass/NEW%2099%20Civic%20EX/New%20sub%20box/BUILDday4001.jpg
that doesnt include my rear trim panels or amplifier BUT my system isnt typical system.LOL
most people just slap in a box sub/amp... id say i have 150pounds added TOPS...


but like ive said before if ya want a SPL vehicle...... well your not into racing! LOL
but for most so called WANNA BE RACE CARDRIVERS..... i say MOST can loose 40pounds by thier diet only ;)

YAH. But I don't have a weight problem. I don't eat beans and a fat filled diet like all the NEWCOMERS HERE. Nice scale you have. Like I said 200#. At 150# your not far off.

LMFAO but im not into racing.... my civics my daily driver so im going for comfort/style/and loud bass..... ;)

if it was my race car it wouldnt have a radio... id stick to my ipod and headphones ;)


and well i dont think i have a weight problem BUT i do LOVE MY BACON AND FAST FOOD. LMFAO but im 6ft and only about 180pounds so im not to bad. it could be alot worse.LOL but im not making any changes. im comfortable the way i am. [8D]

Cool, no problem bro. I am 6'1" 190. A few xtra #. I just don't like all kinds of crap like I use to. In another car I had last year I had dual 10" Comp VR's and a Kicker mono 300 watt amp added to a stock stereo, and it didn't sound consistant. As you know, it had to be hooked up with a hi level to low level converter, which I don't like. I sold it a few months later. The best way is with RCA inputs. ButI didn't want to replace the stock NAV with a new head unit.

o ya the high low wires almost always suck on these newer headunits... cause they have that speed sensor or tach sensor some crap like that so when ya get going so fast like on the highway it automatical adjusts the volume to be louder to compensate for the road noise.... tho its a cool feature... it sucks for anything aftermarket!
plus not to mention that the speaker wires already have the signals adjusted so your not geting the true sound of the radio from them!


if ya didnt have the stock navi then id say swap it out... but that is a preaty cool toy..... ;)
if youd want a good sounding system youd have to pull it out and rewire all the speakers to the new headunit...

huge hassle tho :(