RE: Rebuilding '86 CRX to stock
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RE: Rebuilding '86 CRX to stock - 1/18/2008 1:34:31 PM
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jamned
Posts: 264
Joined: 6/25/2007 From: Los Angeles, CA Status: offline
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Haha, yeah it's kind of ugly, but I know I'm going to love driving it. Hell, my other car's an '87 civic. It's just as boxy. I love driving tiny, lightweight cars. What's a crab? I like the idea of using fiberglass to reinforce the fenders. I'll look into it, thanks for the suggestion!
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RE: Rebuilding '86 CRX to stock - 1/29/2008 12:19:05 AM
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jamned
Posts: 264
Joined: 6/25/2007 From: Los Angeles, CA Status: offline
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So my progress has slowed a bit. Having too many interests means that I can't put too much time into any one thing. Last week, I spent a couple of days cleaning off the valves. There were some heavy carbon deposits on the exhaust valves, especially on the valve face. I cleaned them off by locking them into my drill and spinning them while i pressed the face against a screwdriver. Afterwards, I stripped off the black material with sandpaper. I'm actually not sure if that black material is high-temp paint or some kind of treatment. Anyone know? I figured that I can make the valves a lot smoother than they were, though...I thought I read online a while ago that smoothing the valve faces can protect the engine against detonation. I can't find where, though...can anyone confirm? After my valves are all smoothed with another application of sandpaper, I'll use lapping compound to mate the contact surfaces with the valve seals in the head. After this, I'll probably change my oil pan gasket, check the tolerances of the oil pump and maybe replace it (the block is around 220k miles) and then start putting this baby back together. Hopefully I can have this running in another week or two, with the 4-8 hours I'm putting in each week. Here's some before-and-after pics of the valve surface cleaning. Pay no attention to that chipped valve. That's an old valve that I've replaced with another (used) exhaust valve from a d15a2. Thumbnail Image
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RE: Rebuilding '86 CRX to stock - 4/22/2008 1:02:21 AM
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jamned
Posts: 264
Joined: 6/25/2007 From: Los Angeles, CA Status: offline
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Reviving an old thread... I lapped the valves and ended up not getting the head milled--my parents rushed me to finish up so that I could clear up some garage space. I threw everything back on, then had to take a few parts off to replace leaking coolant lines going to the fast idle sensor. After that, I took off and reinstalled the timing belt 4 times because I couldn't get the marks aligned right. It turns out I got it right the first time. I think one of the previous freaking owners changed the crankshaft pulley. I'm supposed to set the engine timing to 12 degrees btdc, but the marks are for 16 +/- 2 btdc. I was able to get it to 12 with my adjustable timing light, I just thought that maybe I was doing something wrong. Ugh. The radiator fan wasn't spinning up, so I replaced the thermostat and radiator temp sensor, but the parts I pulled out looked pretty new. The last owner said he recently changed them, but I was in doubt about their condition, so I wanted to be sure. The last owner shorted the radiator temp sensor wires to always have the radiator fan on. This part of the wiring harness got damaged when I was driving it around testing the motor, since the shorted part got scraped on the ground...bleh, anyways, now instead of 2 plugs to connect to the radiator temp sensor, I have a plug and a wire. My cheap solution was to crimp some copper on the loose wire using pliers. The ECU kept throwing a problem code with the TDC/CYL sensor, so I replaced the distributor. When I later checked the old distributor with a multimeter, it was within spec. More ugh. Yesterday (4/21), I smogged the car to complete the transfer of ownership. The car failed smog!!! Too many hydrocarbons (hc) and carbon monoxide particles (CO). I'm reeeeeeeeeeeeaaally hoping that this is an o2 sensor issue. Tomorrow I'm going to run the o2 sensor test in Chilton's (which is the same as in the helms service manual). I'm crossing my fingers that the o2 sensor falls out of spec--I know some of you would rather just change the o2 sensor, but after swapping a few parts that looked like they were still good, I want to be sure. I really don't want the problem to be with the catalytic converter. If that's the case...my backup plan is to swap it from crx 2--I bought a second one for some body parts. I'll post up some pics during my down time at work later today. Anyone have any experience with treating smog fail cars? I'll probably have to take this to a smog garage, but I'm hoping that the problem might be something small that I can test first, like the o2 sensor or map sensor.
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RE: Rebuilding '86 CRX to stock - 4/22/2008 12:51:50 PM
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addiction2bass
Posts: 7491
Joined: 6/21/2006 Status: offline
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ya i would pull the fenders off and clean and ruff sand the inside ruffly clean again and fiberglass/matt/resin over them... those things break so easily! at least if you resin/glass the insides of them if they crack they will be held inplace instead of shattering the whole fender! then you can fix them easily enough by just filling cracks with some plastic bondo.... and the crx in the middle didnt have a SI spoiler... im pretty sure thats the DX spoiler. im pretty sure the one on the left is a HF or SI spoiler... i would just swap hatches and drill holes for the wiper motor if you want to keep it.... most people delete the rear wiper tho. IMO i wish mine had one. :( and most likely the sunroof is siliconed shut.... very common bad leaking area!!!!
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