gauges? are there good and bad? like i hear autometers are good, and they are pretty expensive, like ebay gauges also? like can you have a good gauge and a bad gauge?
Info on them would be greatly appreciated.


and for boost controlers, what do you guys suggest, Im lookin at the apxei afc and a greddy profec-b for controling a setup. I could use some info on these.

i had a greddy profec b Type S and i loved it. simple, effective. i hate the profec b spec II... wayy to dern complicated. but all you really need is a MBC... i mean how often do you really change ur boost? anyways. any mbc will work, it's a simple contraption and if you really knew how they worked you could make one at the local auto part store (i did for 12 bucks).
autometer is a good brand is is NOT expensive... you want to see expensive? check out Defi. they are very nice but wayyyy overpriced. you can find autometer gauges for 20-50 bucks each which is very inexpensive.
honestly i wouldn't trust ebay gauges... never used them before but if i'm using something to show me how my engine is performing and making sure that it's not about to explode... i'll pay an extra 10-20 bucks per gauge to make sure it's working correctly.

Boost gauge
oil pressure gauge
A/F gauge
EGT gauge
and maybe volt
are he gauges i might run, and together the 4 with out the volt for autometer gauges plus wireing and what not runs about 495 on summitraceing.
wich is expensive IMO, is there a cheaper place? and does that set up sound legit?

all you need if running boost is:
boost gauge
wideband

what gauges are you looking at? the basic autometer gauges run like 40-50 each. all of the others are optional, these are the 2 that you NEED.

i would get a wideband, boost, oil pressure gauge

we all have different opinions... I say boost and fuel pressure are the must haves... a standard a/f ratio gauge is a waste. Go with a wideband setup like said.

So about 100 for wideband an boost gauge and skip everything else? do you guys have a better place t get these then summit?

REAL Wideband, plan on spending closer to $250+ for a good setup.

AEM makes a great wideband and is prolly the most used one on the market. There are a couple others out there but you won't find many for under 100 bucks used...
you NEED a wideband so you know ur not leaning ur car out and going to put a hole through a piston and you NEED a boost gauge to know that ur not overboosting and going to shove a rod through the block.

so im looking at like 300+ just for gauges?

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=AVM%2D30%2D4100&view=1&N=700+400407+4294925228+308464

is that the one your talking about?

Unless you plan on tuning your car yourself, you don't really need a wideband. You should be fine withjust aboost gauge and oil pressure.


about the ebay gauges,I boughtthis rpm gauge anddamnthing broke the first week. I had to take it apart to fix it[&:]
http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k293/gsumano/0922071523.jpg

No, you're looking at $300+ for constant monitoring of factors, and eventual peace of mind ;)

Okay so that rules ebay gauges out. and the aem wideband is it the one labeled airfuel?

AEM UEGO Wide band, check ebay I got mine for justaround $270new. If I were you I would get a wide band, oil pressure, and boost gauge.

Edit: gsumano, your gauges aren't level with each other, how does that not bug the crap out of you? I am going crazy trying to make sure mine are all even before I finish installing them.

ORIGINAL: gsumano

Unless you plan on tuning your car yourself, you don't really need a wideband.

Not true at all.

alright on to a diff turbo question. i have available to buy used, a 16g from a evo 3 and a t25 turbo wich is also a mitsubishi turbo. wich one do you guys think is better for boosting my d16y7, im not lookin for too much h/p, yet, cuz its a stock block, so im looking for quick spooling and maybe shooting for around 225-250 whp, if applicable.

Any CC or suggestions are welcomed.

Anyone?

a more realistic goal is probably 180ish whp. If you want quick spool, i can vouch for the t25. 2100rpm spools at full boost by 2400rpm

ORIGINAL: Forty04

ORIGINAL: gsumano

Unless you plan on tuning your car yourself, you don't really need a wideband.

Not true at all.


Tony did you hvae a wideband on your boosted Civ? I think with gsumano is saying is techinically you don't NEED a wideband to have a boosted car, but at the same time it's safer for you (to monitor a/f ratio) and easier for a tuner so they don't have to install/uninstal the wideband everytime they want to tune. So Overurhead if you throw down the money for a wideband, you will probably be happy you did, but it's not 100% completely necesarry. Tony you put the Wideband under this category in the Building a Turbo Kit Sticky: Stuff you don’t NEED, but may come in handy.

And also Overurhead, a T25 is a pretty common turbo and you may be able to find a turbo manifold with a T25 adapter plate on it already, which would save you some hassle.

Yeah, i have both availble to buy. the t25 with manifold, and the 16g with manifold, they are both cast manifolds. which i have heard are better?

No, I did not have a wideband on my setup. If I could do it all over again, I'd have a nice wideband and knock sensor

I have a wideband runnig all the time. Quickest way to notice a problem and save your motor in my opinion.

I have a wideband 24/7.

ORIGINAL: polo708

I have a wideband runnig all the time. Quickest way to notice a problem and save your motor in my opinion.


FACT

If I'd had the wideband, and knock detection, I'm fairly sure I'd still have the Civic today

probably a dumb question for someone as far into a build as me but... whats a knock sensor? where do i put it? where do i get one? and what the heck does it do?

i dont want fourty incident :(

I would liek o know also about the knock sensor. and also what you guys think about cast manifolds apposed to tubular.

ORIGINAL: didder

probably a dumb question for someone as far into a build as me but... whats a knock sensor? where do i put it? where do i get one? and what the heck does it do?

i dont want fourty incident :(



i don't pretend to know alot about them, but this is copied from Car-Stuff.com:

A quality Knock Sensor is more important than ever thanks to today’s increasing gas prices. Your Engine Knock Sensor enables your vehicle to obtain the optimum combination of timing and fuel/air mixture to generate power and efficiency and that means less wasted gas.

Knock sensor is bolted to the block and detects when your engine is detonating or pre-igniting(or knocking).

Only the Y series motors have them, and they're crap. Knock sensors are pretty useless I'm afraid, it's extremely difficult to detect knock via only soundwaves and that's how knock sensors work. Which means that any "abnormal" sounds that the knock sensor reads as knock (which may or may not be detonation) it will retard timing and try to save your engine. Good in theory, poor in practice.

I've seen the homemade ones in action and they seemed to work pretty good. I don't konw, its one of those "better safe than sorry" sort of things. Had I been running one, I wouldn't have driven while detonating for so long.

Okay so does anyone have any prior knowledge on a 16g turbo? I have it more availble to me cheaper with a manifold read for it then i do the t25. so worth it? on a stock block? I also am thinking of a block mini build also maybe so. idunno yt, any suggestions welcome.

A good alternitave to a wide band is an EGT guage. Hot means you're lean, which is detonation conditions. A wideband would still be your best bet. This place has good, cheap guages. I know that these work http://prosportgauges.com/

ORIGINAL: kokasian

A good alternitave to a wide band is an EGT guage. Hot means you're lean, which is detonation conditions. A wideband would still be your best bet. This place has good, cheap guages. I know that these work http://prosportgauges.com/



Hot means you're either too lean, too rich, ignition is too far retarded, or ignition is too far advanced. It's not a viable tuning gauge by any means unless you really know what you're looking at.

I was under the impression that unburned fuel from a rich condion would cause a low EGT. I also thought that running your timing too advance would cause a lean condition, and thusly a high EGT. Either way, a sudden spike in EGT means something just FUBARed and you need to pull over. Wideband is still the way to go

edit: I didnt mean use it as a tuning guage, I meant it as a warning gauge

Okay so heres some more questions for you guys.

This turbo manifold. whats it for? It looks to me with soem research to be a t3/t4 or a t25, but i can't figure it out.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a398/overurhead360/0214081533a.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a398/overurhead360/0214081533b.jpg
I realize its gotta be something with an internal wastegate, but you guys got any ideas?

and is this thing worth saving i'm pretty sure its a fuel pressure regulator, but it hs no numbers on it anywere, will it coem in handy ina turbo set up?
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a398/overurhead360/0214081533.jpg

BUMP. any help? no?

Okay fine, thanks alot guys, lol. im researchin 24/7 here. thought maybe you guys could help lessen the load.

Looks like a T25 manifold, cast at that. Problem is I can't tell for sure, the T3/T4 and T25 are different flanges but they look alike.

You're better off asking whoever's pictures they are what the mani is for.

No, you don't need the FPR.

Thanks sov, the thing is is that the manifold is mine and i took the pictures, and the guy i bought it from has no idea if its t25 or t3/t4. I'm leaning towards t25, but i have no idea. I guess the only way really to tell is to attempt to slap one or the other too it really?


Also, turbos off ebay? Even if not name brand. like this http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T4-Turbocharger-Internal-wastegate-8psi-V-Band-Clamp_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742Q2em153Q2el12 62QQcategoryZ33602QQihZ010QQitemZ200201288486
At all anywhere near decent. I know name brands are better but yeah?

^ if it was me, i WOULD NOT get that turbo off ebay. It looks like gneeric shiny ebay sh*t to me

Yeah thats what i figured. Im prety much doing the same thing as you flip. Though I'm not sure on the turbo yet i need a find a used one it looks like, and im thinking of swaping a z6 head inplace of my y7.

this should help:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/monkeymagic/T3flange.gif

This is a T3 flange.

I don't see anything... but thanks roto.

Edit: ehh i see it now, but im not sure that correct?

Okay. so its not a t3. so im leaning t25 now. cuz what other options are there?
And then again I'm not really sure if its ven for a d series block either but Hopefully tonight i'll get a hold of a gaskett to see if they line up. im pretty sure it is.

Okay. So Heres wher ei need some help and suggestions.

I think i'm going t25. with a mini me z6 head swap. Maybe put the pistons in.(not sure, gotta check the walls)
and looking for some good gains. Maybe around 220 or higher if possible, but its a DD so gotts keep it safe. what would you guys recommed for psi and what not.

leave it internally gated at the 7 (i think?) PSI. That'd be a nice mellow setup that has been run many times. DSM injectors work perfect for that as well.

Thanks flip, where do you think that would put me around for hp? and do dsm 450s sound good? or something diff.

Okay so picking up a t25 for $50 bucks on friday.Im pumped. Starting to piece this whole thing together. Flip i need you to finish yours so i can ask questions lol.

http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a398/overurhead360/0309081433c.jpg
Picked it up sunday not friday. One of the nipples is bent as you can see in this picture.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a398/overurhead360/0309081433b.jpg
Hopeing its fixable. and two of the studs are stuck in still, ill work on geting them out this week maybe.
heres some pics of it. I found out the manifold i posted pictures of is not a t25 manifold but i got a friend at school that says he has one i can buy for cheap.
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a398/overurhead360/0309081433a.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a398/overurhead360/0309081434.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a398/overurhead360/0309081435.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a398/overurhead360/0309081434b.jpg
http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a398/overurhead360/0309081434c.jpg

nice lookin turbo, suck about the nipple though. Do you know what one it's for? Both of my coolant line nipples are blocked off of one my turbo, if you're isn't an oil line or some kind of vacuum line you're going to use, it might be usable still.

And if you don't try and up the boost too much, the DSM 450's will do you fine. Need a resistor box and clips for the new injectors as well.

Yeah. So its not a t25, its a t28( I believe). and if so its internally gated at 10-12 psi. and the manifold i have is not a t25 manifold. :(
So internally gated at 10-12 psi? is that guna be too much?