im racing my friend at the Cecil county dragstrip in maryland... i drive a 99 civic HX it is 5spd manual w/ DC-s header, full exhaust, warm air, and a new clutch... he drives an 00 civic LX it is automatic, what should our times be (guestimating) since its auto i dont think he can get the full vtec power outta his engine
i'd be suprised if his car dips into the 17's, and if its an LX, he doesnt even have VTEC. For you, i would guess that if your a decent driver you might be able to hit a HIGH 16, but i'm thinkin low 17's
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Antartic Blue Super Sports wagon with C.B. and optional Rally Fun Pack
when you go to the track, get those enkeis off and put your stock rims and tires on, at least up front.
whys that patrick?
i'm no patrick, but bigger wheels and tires on a stock car reduce acceleration rate, because they require more power to turn them. Also, the stock tires have a bigger profile, which helps on the strip. bigger aftermarket wheels only improve looks and stability at high speeds on an otherwise stock car
a bigger wheel is almost always heavier...a heavier wheel has more rotational mass, thus requiring more effort on the engines behalf to turn the wheels...if you put a 17 inch steel wheel and the exact same car with 14 inch steel wheels, on a dyno, the 14 inch wheels would show a slightly higher WHP...also with a smaller wheel, you effectively decrease your gearing, thus improving your acceleration.
now, if your 17s are, say a composite two piece dirt track wheel, and are very light, they would have less rotational mass than say a 14" stock wheel, so you would be better off WHP-wise, but as for the bottom end, a smaller tire will yield a better 60' time, provided that you get traction...
when i track my slow car, i run my factory 17s on the back, and 15" steelies on the front, with a very low profile tire...and it really helps with the bottom end...even though my 15s may be a bit heavier, the gain in rotational mass is less of a setback than the drop in bottom end is a help...
Strip on Friday
