Hey guys whats up? Anyways I bought some coilover sleeves and they came with a bunch of rubber rings and a couple larger metal rings.... what are they for? And how do I put them and or use them with the coilovers?

 

The rubber things (O-rings) are to be put inbetween the coilover sleeve and the shock. The sleeves are made larger than the shock so that they fit over it. So, the O-rings go inbetween to get rid of the extra space.

I'm assuming by larger metal rings, you mean the aluminum perches that thread onto the sleeves inorder to adjust the height of the springs.

Please, read up A LOT on how to do this before attempting to install them. I'm not questioning your knowledge, I'm just questioning your experience with these kinds of modifications.

 

Okay thanks a lot man...

 

Here's a picture of what you should have gotten...

 

yes it is... but I can't find any step by step instructions... at least showing what to do with the O-rings.

 

You will need to remove your stock springs, then add the rubber o-rings which will go around the shock shaft to equal up the difference so the coil over sleeves won't rattle. Add your adjust rings to your coil over sleeve at the height you want your car to set and lock them into each other. Next, add your spring and cap and put the top capand nut back on.

Maybe search Google for a Coil over DIY install. It's really simple and basic install even for a noob.

 

Thanks man I'll look it up...

 

I typed up a little spring install DIY for someone a while ago... I'll see if I can't find a link for it.

*edit: found it:

Now, before you get started on anything, there's a few things you should know
1) start the install on a friday. Replacing all four springs should take about 4 hours, but that's only if you have no problems (which you will). Starting on a friday gives you three days (and nights) to get everything back together before work/school monday.
2) Have extra LCA bolts handy (and possibly new bushings... now would be a good time to swap for some nice polyurethane bushings). This is pretty important, since there's really only one practical place to get new bolts, and that's through a dealership. I promise you that your lower control arm bolts will give you problems (they have a nasty habit of seizing from all the rustand thenbreaking when you try to get them off)
3) Be patient when installing them. I've noticed that if I'm working on a car and I get frustrated, things just do downhill; small things go wrong and it pretty much just ruins your day. When this happens and you keep working, the quality of your work will probably suffer. If you get frustrated, just leave the car alone for a while (this is another reason for hint #1); go have a snack, watch tv, take a nap, whatever. Just come back and work on the car when you're relaxed again.
4) WD-40 ain't got nothin' on PB Blaster. Have a bunch of PB Blaster handy. It's like freakin' WD40 on steroids; it works wonders on rusted bolts.
5) Air tools really don't help too much on spring installs (at least I don't think they do). When I put my coilovers on, I found myself using hand tools more often than not. It just seemed like the impact wrench didn't do anything to help me with the seized bolts.
6) The higher spring rates (and taller springs) go in front. The smaller spring rates go in back. The spring rates should be printed on the springs.

Anyway, now that that's taken care of, here's your basic spring install (with hand tools and jacks/jack stands):
1) break the lugs loose while the car is on the ground (hopefully, these first few steps should be a given)
2) put the car up on jacks; all four corners of the car. Trust me, it's easier this way than it is to just jack up the front or rear. Remember to use jack stands! Also, now's a good time to pop the hood.
3) take the wheels off.
---Let's start with the front springs---
4) this isn't necessary, but I feel it helps to give you a bit more headroom to work with: take off the fenders.
5) Now there's five bolts you'll need to take off (or at least there is on 5th gens): one on the control arm, two holding the brake line to the strut, and two on the strut tower (under the hood). Take them off in the order I gave you.
6) Now this is where a friend comes in handy. You'll need to wiggle the spring/strut assembly out of the car. Trust me, and extra set of hands comes in... well, handy (sorry for the bad pun )
7) Compress the springs, and take everything apart. Take the spring compressors off the stock spring (be careful... spring compressors fly fast, and the spring will fly off in a random direction if the compressors manage to slip off the spring). You won't need the compressors for the new springs, but I like to get little things like this out of the way.
8a) Remove the stock springs from the assembly. If you're installing new shocks, you'll have to take everything apart. Now, I've never done lowering springs (just coilovers), but I'm pretty sure it's just a simple spring swap (with coilovers you have to cut the bump stops and all this other fun stuff).
9) Put everything back together (if you're installing lowering springs, put everything together the same way the stocks were. If you're doing coilovers, put everything together the way the instructions/diagrams show).
10) Repeat steps 4-9 on the other side
11) Repeat steps 5-10 on the back springs. Itmight not be exactly the same as the front, butthe steps are close enough. You'll need to pull out some of the carpeting to get to the strut towers in the trunk.
12) Put the wheels (and fenders) back on, remove the jack stands, and lower the car down off the jacks.
13) Allow some time for the springs to completely settle before getting an alignment.

additional steps since they're coilovers:
8b) remove stock dust covers. Those are those black metal sleeve things on the stock shock piston. Cut them so there's about 1.5"-2" left at the top.
8c) remove the stock bumpstops. Those are the orange rubber things on the shock piston. Cut them in half and keep the top half.
8d) Now reassemble everything using the top section of the bumpstop and the top section of the dust cover (or no dust cover at all... I really don't think it makes much of a difference)

If you need any more help, let me know.

 

LCA bolts hahaha...Brings back memories to when I did the suspension swap on my EG. Its very common for the Lower control arm bolts to seize up and break when removing. One of mine was so bad that we couldnt get a bolt out and took it to the machine shop and they did not listen when I told them they couldn't heat cause the bushing and seals would be toast and well, I ended up going to the junk yard to get another arm cause it was cheaper than buying new bushings at the time.(LCA was free from junk yard cause I'm in tight with the owner and get all the goodies I want) haha. Anyway, Reaper has a good write up for you so that should help! Reaper, you get an A++ for the day haha.

Good Luck andPray before youremovethe LCA bolts haha.

 

Hey guys thats awesome!!! I am saving it and printing it out... thanks man!