Buying another remote
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics...1/product.html
This alarm came with my car, and I'm guessing the remote is broken, because the screen is cracked and it looks like it's been through hell.
Is there a way to get another remote? I tried looking for one but can't seem to find any...
This alarm came with my car, and I'm guessing the remote is broken, because the screen is cracked and it looks like it's been through hell.
Is there a way to get another remote? I tried looking for one but can't seem to find any...
might be easier/cheaper just buy a replacement alarm....
this ebay one comes with 2 remotes.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/PERFORMANCE-TEKN...QQcmdZViewItem
this ebay one comes with 2 remotes.....
http://cgi.ebay.com/PERFORMANCE-TEKN...QQcmdZViewItem
whoa nice. I swear I just saw that same prduct somewhere for $200. How about if I changed the main brain to the one from the one your mentioned, and used the remotes from that one?
Or would I have to take off all the wires and stuff, then install the new one
Or would I have to take off all the wires and stuff, then install the new one
^ see I'd gladly pay $120 to buy another remote, but I can't find any.
I tore up the interior of my car, and followed all the wires from the brain, and found an inline fuse that was popped, and an inline fuseholder without a fuse in it. replaced the fuse, didin't work [>:].
Then I kept going, and the black (ground I'm guessing?) wire coming from the horn was just dangling in mid-air. So I tried connecting that to the negative battery terminal, still no go.
Here's a pic:
I tore up the interior of my car, and followed all the wires from the brain, and found an inline fuse that was popped, and an inline fuseholder without a fuse in it. replaced the fuse, didin't work [>:].
Then I kept going, and the black (ground I'm guessing?) wire coming from the horn was just dangling in mid-air. So I tried connecting that to the negative battery terminal, still no go.
Here's a pic:
ORIGINAL: sde780
^ see I'd gladly pay $120 to buy another remote, but I can't find any.
I tore up the interior of my car, and followed all the wires from the brain, and found an inline fuse that was popped, and an inline fuseholder without a fuse in it. replaced the fuse, didin't work [>:].
Then I kept going, and the black (ground I'm guessing?) wire coming from the horn was just dangling in mid-air. So I tried connecting that to the negative battery terminal, still no go.
^ see I'd gladly pay $120 to buy another remote, but I can't find any.
I tore up the interior of my car, and followed all the wires from the brain, and found an inline fuse that was popped, and an inline fuseholder without a fuse in it. replaced the fuse, didin't work [>:].
Then I kept going, and the black (ground I'm guessing?) wire coming from the horn was just dangling in mid-air. So I tried connecting that to the negative battery terminal, still no go.
A ground wire needs to be connected to bare metal...NOT the negative battery terminal
HOLY CRAP THATS A MESS!!!!!!!!!
but that white wire with the inline fuse goes to the parking lights or SHOULD go to the parking lights. and on some vehicles it needs to use a relay to flow extra voltage. most likely if its blowing fuses then its either hooked up to some fog lights as well as parking lights or headlights. that will blow the fuse instantly!
tho that green fused wire im not sure about..... ive never used a alarm that used a green fused wire.
usualy a alarm only has 2-3 fused wire... one the white parking lights, another RED wire which is for the ignition wire, and usualy 2 more larger RED wires that power the remote starter.
what i would do is gutt the alarm completly!!!!!! and have a new alarm wired in!
thats definatly a hack job instal! probably not even wired up correctly which is why its jacked up.
but that white wire with the inline fuse goes to the parking lights or SHOULD go to the parking lights. and on some vehicles it needs to use a relay to flow extra voltage. most likely if its blowing fuses then its either hooked up to some fog lights as well as parking lights or headlights. that will blow the fuse instantly!
tho that green fused wire im not sure about..... ive never used a alarm that used a green fused wire.
usualy a alarm only has 2-3 fused wire... one the white parking lights, another RED wire which is for the ignition wire, and usualy 2 more larger RED wires that power the remote starter.
what i would do is gutt the alarm completly!!!!!! and have a new alarm wired in!
thats definatly a hack job instal! probably not even wired up correctly which is why its jacked up.
ORIGINAL: lawlersauce
[:@]
A ground wire needs to be connected to bare metal...NOT the negative battery terminal
ORIGINAL: sde780
^ see I'd gladly pay $120 to buy another remote, but I can't find any.
I tore up the interior of my car, and followed all the wires from the brain, and found an inline fuse that was popped, and an inline fuseholder without a fuse in it. replaced the fuse, didin't work [>:].
Then I kept going, and the black (ground I'm guessing?) wire coming from the horn was just dangling in mid-air. So I tried connecting that to the negative battery terminal, still no go.
^ see I'd gladly pay $120 to buy another remote, but I can't find any.
I tore up the interior of my car, and followed all the wires from the brain, and found an inline fuse that was popped, and an inline fuseholder without a fuse in it. replaced the fuse, didin't work [>:].
Then I kept going, and the black (ground I'm guessing?) wire coming from the horn was just dangling in mid-air. So I tried connecting that to the negative battery terminal, still no go.
A ground wire needs to be connected to bare metal...NOT the negative battery terminal
[:'(] There's like 3 different green wires there...
I ran some 10 gauge wire from that black ground from the alarm horn to the battery, it was only like a foot away from the battery.
I don't have fogs on the car, and my parking lights have never flashed with the alarm (I think it was supposed to), the fuse missing explains that I guess.
There's only 2 wires that run into the engine compartment, one goes to the alarm's horn and the other goes inside this OEM loom, after it taps into this blue wire in the driver's corner of the engine bay.
Now here's a weird thing : about a month ago after I installed an amp/sub, if I put the keys to the I or II (I can't remember which), and opened one of the front doors, all the turn signals would flash.
This alarm would be so hard to take off; there's stuff going to the fusebox, doors, everywhere. And there's like a module that lights up if I tap the steering column; guessing that's one of the sensors. Maybe I can get bestbuy to sort this mess out...
I ran some 10 gauge wire from that black ground from the alarm horn to the battery, it was only like a foot away from the battery.
I don't have fogs on the car, and my parking lights have never flashed with the alarm (I think it was supposed to), the fuse missing explains that I guess.
There's only 2 wires that run into the engine compartment, one goes to the alarm's horn and the other goes inside this OEM loom, after it taps into this blue wire in the driver's corner of the engine bay.
Now here's a weird thing : about a month ago after I installed an amp/sub, if I put the keys to the I or II (I can't remember which), and opened one of the front doors, all the turn signals would flash.
This alarm would be so hard to take off; there's stuff going to the fusebox, doors, everywhere. And there's like a module that lights up if I tap the steering column; guessing that's one of the sensors. Maybe I can get bestbuy to sort this mess out...
well if the alarm has busted remotes... its best to buy a new alarm and have a car alarm shop to sort that mess out.
the blue wire running into the engine compartment is the TACH signal wire.
and its a Siren under the hood.
their should be one more wire that goes into the engine bay, but with that shady instal it wouldnt suprise me if its not their!
now on MOST typical alarms the color codes are the same BUT NOT ALWAYS...
green wire with white strip= brake input +
green solid= good trigger input -
green wire on the small 2or 3 wire plug with green/red/blue wires is the door lock wires green one is lock , red it a small power, blue is unlock wire. the red shouldnt be needed for a honda.
and the only other green wire i can think of is for turbo timer. not realy used much.....
the light that lights up is the alarms LED and it comes on when the door triggers are either opened or if ya hit the car and the shock sensor feels the impact.
track down the green wire with the poped inline fuse and tell me where it goes.... doesnt look like it should be hard to follow.LOL
the blue wire running into the engine compartment is the TACH signal wire.
and its a Siren under the hood.
their should be one more wire that goes into the engine bay, but with that shady instal it wouldnt suprise me if its not their!
now on MOST typical alarms the color codes are the same BUT NOT ALWAYS...
green wire with white strip= brake input +
green solid= good trigger input -
green wire on the small 2or 3 wire plug with green/red/blue wires is the door lock wires green one is lock , red it a small power, blue is unlock wire. the red shouldnt be needed for a honda.
and the only other green wire i can think of is for turbo timer. not realy used much.....
the light that lights up is the alarms LED and it comes on when the door triggers are either opened or if ya hit the car and the shock sensor feels the impact.
track down the green wire with the poped inline fuse and tell me where it goes.... doesnt look like it should be hard to follow.LOL


