I wouldnt even touch it if I were you, id just bring it back to the shop and tell them whats up.

 

looks like you missed what he said
"This may come as a shock, but those suckers closed down."

 

If you really like that amp, you can unplug the negative cable when you get out of your car and just plug it in when your gonna use it. You will be fine as long as you dont touch the positive cable

 

I've actually had the amp for over 5 years. Didn't buy it from that shop. They only handled the install. Shoddily, I might add. You mean the negative battery cable? A bit too much effort for my lazy ****. lol

Either way, it seems that a $20 relay will solve my prob. Laziness FTW!

 

Tell me the amp model/make
I could probably tell you how to fix the amp...
but near 100% guarantee what happens is a metal bridge inside the amp heats up to a point that solder melts, creating a straight connection b/w power and negative terminals.

as can be seen terminals are often very close together
even the mosfets shown on the sides are close, but this isn't harmful
another possibility is the relay powered by the remote wire could also have done the same or fried

+1 for addiction2bass for suggesting relay

 

It's the MTX Thunder 4160.

 

Have you tried getting warranty service direct from the manufacturer or another dealer?

 

Not really. But I'm confident that addiction2bass and imshirazy are spot on with their assessments. If I can find the relay at Best Buy, I believe they'll install it for free (if that policy is still in effect). Otherwise, I'll just have to install it solo. If I can install a tach, a relay shouldn't be to tough.

 

na best buy probably wont have these larger relays... try a special automotive radio shop...

but unhook the remote wire and see if it still drains the battery. if it does than thats what it needs....

a simply 12volt light tester can help ya out a bunch..... costs like 10bucks or less any automotive or even walmart has them. simply ground the clamp on the tester and probe the remote wire with the power off and on the amplifier with it removed....

if you remove the remote wire and it has power in the wire itself then its something wrong with the power source powering the remote wire.... that can be simply fixed by cuting it off the radios remote turn on wire and wire it up into the fuse box on a wire that only has power when the key is in the ACCessory and run position.... just be sure to pop a small fuse inline of that wire.

and if the light tester shows power on the amplifiers terminal with the remote wire removed then its a problem internaly and definatly needs that large relay....

i asume that amplifier is pretty small so a 80amp relay solonoid should be large enough.


but if you do have to use a relay for it its actualy quite easy..... simple hook up, cut the main power wire after the FUSE block and then crimp on a ring terminal to fit the solonoid terminal, and another ring terminal on the other cut end and just put the solonoid inline of the power wire, then run a remote wire from the fuse boxes accessory wire thru the firewall ALSO FUSED next to the power source... and run it to the solonoid. you may have to ground the relay but not sure..... i know most that ive used use a mounting point for the ground on them.
not to difficult.