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Getting new kicker subs and amp

Old Mar 4, 2008 | 09:55 AM
  #1  
mja988's Avatar
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Default Getting new kicker subs and amp

I need some suggestions here for people who have worked with kicker.

I've got 4 12" cvrs now, and it weighs down my car, so i'm going to go with two kicker 12" CVX's (2 ohm 750 rms each) on a kicker zx1500.1 (1500 rms)mono amp.


I am open to any/ all suggestions here. But my main concern is with my civic, if I get a powercell/ gel cell battery in the back will i need to worry about my alternator or anything else? I'm looking for any and all suggestions here. All I really ask is if you have a suggestion just back it up and tell me why.

Thanks
-Matt
 
Old Mar 4, 2008 | 06:43 PM
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Default RE: Getting new kicker subs and amp

just get a good battery in the back..... like a stinger sp1700 or a kinetik 2400 will do fine.... i know kicker amps very well and the 1500.1 is a very effcient amp for how much it throws down....


ps.. i would run with L7 s if you used to have 4 CVRs.... the CVX is kickers stab at a SQ sub.... it"s the same motor as a L7 just less cone area cause it"s round....hope this helps
 
Old Mar 16, 2008 | 10:04 AM
  #3  
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Default RE: Getting new kicker subs and amp

I just got two CVX's on ebay for 90$ a piece, so I couldn't pass it up, also I got two kicker zx750.1's for 150$ each. To me this is going to be a really nice system for myself, and more than enough bass than i'll need.

For hooking it up right now, I plan on using 1/0 guage wire to a distribution block, then 2 4 guage wires coming out to each amp. For wiring up the sub box, I think 12 guage will be fine. For my fuse on the battery up front would a 150 amp work?

For right now will this strain my civic(97ex) down until I get a battery in the trunk? As for that goes are there any other precautions that I should take or any other considerations for this system. Also, when hooking two amps up together, you can just get another rca cable to connect them right? I heard someone telling me I needed a Y cable.

Thanks
 
Old Mar 16, 2008 | 11:06 AM
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Default RE: Getting new kicker subs and amp

well your deck will only have one sub out so you would need two y cables
 
Old Mar 17, 2008 | 05:24 AM
  #5  
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Default RE: Getting new kicker subs and amp

you are saying run two Y cables from the back of the deck and have two rcas ran to my trunk?

also, what type of fuses should I use in my distribution block?
 
Old Mar 17, 2008 | 01:55 PM
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Default RE: Getting new kicker subs and amp

with some amplifiers you can hook up just one of the RCAs and they will still work fine, I wouldn't worry about that therefore, even so, your amp might have an RCA output, to go to another amp, Y cable is usually last resort
As for strain, depends how high you turn your gain up, mixed with the voltage of the signal coming out of the RCA, and the amplitude of the song frequencies
but in short
yeah prolly
a second battery won't help as much as you think, it may or may not still strain your alternator
I had 1080 watts hooked up to my car on one battery, and the car shut itself off while driving due to lack of power...yeah, that bad
I installed a second battery, helped a bit, but still struggles
the only thing you can really do is get a second alternator
and if you're worried about weight well...come on, it's a civic
plus if you want to race or anything with it in the first place, you shouldn't even put subs in your trunk, no matter what you'll lose speed
how fat are you? maybe you should lose a few pounds if you're really concerned about weight
 
Old Mar 17, 2008 | 02:39 PM
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Default RE: Getting new kicker subs and amp

First off, i'm 150 pounds.. thankyou very much.. i'm trying to gain some weight. Second off, my civic is not a racecar it gets me to work everyday and its good on gas. If you're so smart about cars, and civics persay, you would understand that putting 4 12s in a trunk would weigh the suspension down. You must be someone who is insecure about theirself with a low self esteem, if you have to come in an online forum and try to pick an arguement. The meaning of my post was not intentioned to deal with an idiot like you, it was for mature people to give me mature suggestions about my system that i'm about to put together. Anyone else with any other beneficial suggestions would be appreciated.
 
Old Mar 18, 2008 | 08:29 AM
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Default RE: Getting new kicker subs and amp

lol
if you really took it that way and your last post isn't a joke, I'm very surprised
The pound thing was literally a joke, and I weigh 130, you're 150 and trying to gain...you callin me a skinny ***????
of course I'm not serious in the above, but to me that's how you're taking things out of proportion

I may not have had 4 subs in my trunk, but I have had 3 REs, and those are heavy...with my current 30 pound amp, a second battery, yadda yadda, yeah, I know what weight means. If you aren't a racer, ok, say so, not like I made an attack, but few people worry about their suspension over speed...especially since 4 subs probably still won't weigh more than one person sitting in the back of your car directly over your rear tires, or at least if anything, about as much as one person, depends on the subs and box. So, 4 subs won't make THAT big of a change in your suspension, least it didn't for my 00 civic, and I had a lot back there.

I did indeed help your questions, stating information about RCAs, strain, voltages, battery, even a personal example
As for being an idiot, I'm the only one on here that AS FAR AS I KNOW has a mobile electronics certification, and if you don't know me personally, you really shouldn't be calling me an idiot just yet


You want my truest opinions? I don't even like Kicker, they're very common, lack some cooling issues with the sub design, are very heavy for their efficiency output, some models require larger box sizes etc.
If you like Kicker fine, I'm not against it, it's just my opinion, but since you want suggestions, I highly suggest going for some of the truest high end quality subs like DD
You should replace your alternator with a hi amp alternator which will probably cost less than one sub if you know where to buy, and from there upgrade your power wires to a 0 gauge in your engine bay in case you want to upgrade in the future and you get less resistance with a thicker wire of course. If you can't afford a high output alternator, then get your current one tuned to push out a few more amps and THEN change your wires. In all respect, if you don't change your wires from the alt. to the batteries, a cap, additional battery, etc. won't help very much more than a simple upgrade of wire sizes, and grounding sizes as well as grounding points and grounding connections, not to mention I'm sure you can even cut the wire down a few inches.
A second battery in the back would definitely help, I personally feel kinetiks are a ripoff in price although they do perform, so go for a yellowtop battery or even just any other battery. If you look at the cranking amps output for the yellow tops versus your everyday other car battery, sometimes you can save yourself a heck of a lot more money by just buying two normal car batteries over one yellow top and exceed or get the same amp output, but POSSIBLY sacrificing life. Remember that some advantages to the yellow top are also things like the storage cells which are hard to leak, you have to take into consideration whether or not it's worth to pay the extra money for positives you may or may not need, i personally do not worry about spilling, amp hours? Well...depends on how I really play my music too, but I don't need 75 amp hours like optimas offer. Shock and vibration resistant...considering deep cycle etc, battery choice is big, but even if you get two batteries, what's the use if your alternator cannot power the same drain? 1000 watts RMS or so takes out 75 amps approximately, your civic is probably rated at 75 amps. Therefore, take into consideration A/C, heat, wipers, distributor and all other things that take charge, and in there you'll find your answer for whether or not you need a battery, alternator, capacitor etc.

As for cables, you shouldn't need to, many amps can run off of just one input, and rarely would a head unit even put out a left and right channel bass, although this is a very arguable statement, i PERSONALLY don't feel it's something to worry about, especially since two separate amps will power two separate subs to play left and right anyway. For RCA, like i stated your amps should have an output in case you did need to run two sets of RCA, but I doubt it due to my previous stated reason.
 
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