not sealed! they sound better if they have a vented whole
and yea 1000 rms will f--ing blow them shts all over the place..i think they can only handle like 600 rms each..im not sure. plus you dont need all that power just to make your system sound good..it all depends and your whole setup. if your set up is on point--its going to max ur subs without damaging or blowing them.

 

look it up... although Type Rs arent rated for 1000rms...they can handle it and play clean and loud with 1000rms...

#2 u will never actualy be pumping a 1000watts into them at ANY time if u get a thousand watt amp if its tuned correctly.

#3 U shouldnt post in a help for when u really arent sure what ur talking about.

 

also sound quality compeitions are won in a sealed box.

 

1. RMS power on the 15inch version clearly states 750watts!
and for the 10-12 versions its only 500watts rms.
ive had multiple type R setups now!!!! sealed and ported.

2. plus my 1K watt amplifier puts out 1620watts rms at 1ohm. gotta love under ratted amplifiers

3. you shouldnt talk about a product that you havent used yourself. plus just because some one elses equipment sounds really loud doesnt mean you can get it to sound loud! being loud involves all kinds of things like the vehicle, the box, the port, the bracing. two guys could get the same equipment completly and still get no where near the same spl score of even sq.
you can make cheap equipment sound good. and you can also make the most expensive equipment sound like crap!

and ya sound quality vehicles are mostly sealed. and almost ever SPL competitor has a large ported boxs/walls....
also anyone can say anything on there profile what do you have to prove your setup?
i have tons of pictures of my setups and even proof of SPL. what do you have?
http://www.termpro.com/asp/competito...on=2008&Page=1
do you even know what equipment you have? only model info that comes up even on a search in the alping radio.LOL


and the OP is not talking about a SQ system.... he is talking about a decent system. to make the best of your money a ported box is the best bang for the buck!

 

Although I have personally seen people running a tremendous amount of power to the Alpine Type R subwoofers, I have heard the same thing time and time again..... They don't last long when overpowered!

Also, for a ported enclosure, I would highly advise against going way over the RMS power rating unless the system is tuned properly and the person in control of the volume **** knows what they are doing!

On music you are right because chances are they will never see 1,000 watts RMS for any given period of time due to the dynamic nature of recorded material. Now if they go to get metered and run a test tone burp, those subs will see 1,000 watts RMS for however long the test tone burp runs and will probably fail due to overpowering.

 

You and me both! Although I must admit that I am starting to like my JL Audio 10w3v2 subwoofers a little better even though they are lacking at the bottom end in a sealed enclosure. I tried my 12" Solo-baric L5 in the Civic this weekend with a Crossfire BMF1000d, and the SQ on the L5 flat out sucks. Don't get me wrong, that sub will slam like no other in a little Civic with 600 watts RMS. I am just not impressed with the way it sounds throughout the sub bass frequency range.

By the end of the week I should have a single ported 10" DD sub to compare to the sealed JL Audios. After I finally decide what subwoofer I am going to go with, I will end up asking my girlfriend what she wants in her vehicle and sell the leftover subwoofers.

 

thats one good thing about the type Rs ive only got like 600watts on my 2 12s and i scored a 140.1db my best hz seemed to be about 38-46 i cannt remember right now.... i have alittle SPLmeter that i test with before the comp. suprisingly the meter is very close to the new termlabs it just takes longer to register the score....
needless to say for only 600watts thats pretty good! i could have hooked up all 1620watts to them BUT i didnt want to chance blowing the subs. i bought both of them used but they still work great...
and with my 15inch sub i have it hooked up at 4ohms to only get 669watts rms. i know the amp doesnt match to well to the single 15 but its what i had extra laying around. i thought about selling it but i spent quite a bit on it and its got a very nice birth sheet so i just cannt sell it.LOL ill either need different voice coils with a second 15. now that would be a nice match for my amplifier.

and yes I LOVE MY TEST TONES sometimes ya just wanna hear the bass so i pop in my comp cd and rock the first few tracks full blast!
and i also love bench sheets! i know exactly what my amplifier puts out from birth....

 

ive installed at al and edds, circuit city, bestbuy and now a privately owned shop....
i have nothing to prove to u. ur telling me not to suggest stuff when i havent tested it... but ur running Type Rs in ur car. u prob also think that JL is the best..... i can list off 10 companies uve never heard of that will put a JL system to shame.

Type Rs 100% for sure can handle over the suggest max RMS. one of the guys at my current shop ran 3 12" in a massive ported box and competed in SPL for 3 years untill they blew. If u know what ur doing.... u wont blow ur ****. U will blow ur **** if ur running a box that is too small... will blow ur **** if u send ur amp into clipping. More people will blow their gear running a 600 watt amp into a 600 watt sub and turning the gain up.

I look at this stuff every day. i install it 4 days a week. ive done that for the last 4 years.

OP - Just send me a pm and tell me what ur looking for and ill find u a good deal on some quality stuff that u will be able to listen to and smile.. then show ur friends.

 

o and as far as my gear... check my sig.

here is some gear also....
http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2...MAGE_011-1.jpg

 

If you are referring to me, you are totally wrong because I DO NOT think JL Audio is the best. In fact, if you would have read one of my earlier posts, you would know that I am totally disappointed in the 10w3 subs that I currently have. The only saving grace is that I got the pair for $90. If I had paid MSRP at close to $300 per 10, I would have been really disappointed in them.

I know that you can install speakers with more RMS power. I personally have run up to 10x RMS power for additional headroom on some of my older car systems, but I know how to tune my system and can tell when my speakers are entering physical distress!

Here is the trick though. How do you protect the typical person who listens to screw music with the bass and treble all the way up from themselves as they **** the system with full distortion and all their windows down? Furthermore, no matter how much tuning you do on their behalf, they will mess with the system as soon as they get home because it doesn't have enough bass. Take a guess at who they will blame when their subwoofers blow? The installer!

I am good friends with two private shop owners in the area and the story is always the same. The reason they keep dealing with that particular clientele is because the warranty claim is generally denied and they pay cash for another set of subwoofers, installation fees, and anything else you can think of.

If you have customers that won't mess with the system after you install it and actually listen to you with regards as to how hard they can push the system, I would venture to say that you are extremely lucky. Just wait until you get that customer who thinks they know better than you do and watch the nightmares begin.